V<M
INGERSOLUS
CENTURY HISTORY
SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
[BEING BOOK NUMBER TWO OF INGERSOLL S CENTURY SERIES OF CALIFORNIA
LOCAL HISTORY ANNALS]
PREFACED WITH
A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA
A CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
1542 TO 1908
SUPPLEMENTED WITH
AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF LOCAL BIOGRAPHY
EMBELLISHED WITH VIEWS OF HISTORIC LANDMARKS AND PORTRAITS
OF REPRESENTATIVE PEOPLE
LUTHER A. INGERSOLL
LOS ANGELES
19O8
To the memory of the late
WILLIAMSON D. VAWTER
Foremost pioneer citizen in promoting
the civic, industrial and moral welfare
of Santa Monica, and whose life was
an inspiration to noble deeds, this vol
ume of local history is dedicated by
The Author.
LJbmy
PREFACE
HE publication of this book is in no degree an accident, but rather the
partial fulfillment of a long-cherished plan to sometime put in permanent
and fitting form the annals of some of the more historic and romantic
cities and towns of Southern California. This ambition dates back to the winter
season of 1888-9, when the writer arrived in the " Golden State ", became im
pressed with the transcendent richness of its past history and its abundant promise
of future growth and history-making. What might have been regarded, at the
time, a fancy, or inspiration, has, with the rapid passing of two decades, devel
oped into a vivid reality. Obscure hamlets have become prosperous cities ;
where then were open stock ranges and broad fields of grain, have sprung up
marts of trade and commerce, environed by progressive and prosperous com
munities. Enough time has elapsed for these cities and communities to have
acquired a history, still not enough for any considerable portion of that history
to be lost. A few years hence, conditions in this latter respect will have entirely
changed.
The region of country of which this story treats lies within the original
confines of four Spanish-Mexican land grants bordering the bay of Santa Monica
and has hitherto received scant attention from historical writers. When the good
works of Hubert Howe Bancroft and Judge Theodore H. Hittell were written
the wonderful developments of the past twenty years had not transpired and the
work of n:ore recent writers has been of so superficial a nature as not to be of
special historical value.
The writing of history is not the thought or work of a day, but rather the
diligent pursuance of a fixed and determined purpose. The writer of fiction
may work from an inspiration based upon fertile imagination ; the newspaper
writer is the chronicler of current events ; the descriptive writer of travel pictures
that which he then and there observes ; but the historian makes a truthful record
of the past, stating only that which has actually transpired. He indulges in
no ideals, must be keen in discrimination, never self-opinionated or self-assertive,
must be untiring in research, a faithful, patient, plodding gleaner of facts and
an inherent lover of the truth. Lacking these virtues he is without his calling.
The brief history of California and Los Angeles county is herewith given
as a preface to the local history in order that the reader may have a connected
story from the date of the discovery of the country. The state chapters are,
with the exception of some changes and additions, reprinted from my " Century
Annals of San Bernardino County, California (1904.)" The sketches of each
of the twenty-one Franciscan missions of Alta California are adapted from
PREFACE
•' Missions and Landmarks ", a meritorious booklet written and in 1903 published
by Mrs. Armitage S. C. Forbes, a zealous student and authoritative writer upon
California missions and kindred subjects.
The information utilized in the production of the history of Los Angeles
county and the Santa Monica Bay Cities has been gleaned from numerous sources,
prolific of which have been the works of Hubert Howe Bancroft, Theodore H.
Hittell, History of Los Angeles County, Lewis Publishing Co., Chicago, 1890,
Resources of California, by the lamented Charles Nordhoff ; Reminiscences of
A. Ranger, by Major Horace Bell ; California Blue Books, old maps and numerous
old legal documents. Acknowledgments are due Editor D. G. Holt for the
loan of complete files of his Santa Monica Outlook. Old files of the Los
Angeles Times, the Los Angeles Herald and the Evening Express have all
reflected light upon scenes and events of earlier days. Archives of the city of
Santa Monica, of the city and the countv of Los Angeles, have been freely drawn
upon. Files of old legal documents and old court records have been a great
aid in shaping and verifying the histories of land grants.
Uniform courtesy and kindness have been accorded me by many people in
my quest for historical data, for which I am under special and lasting obligations
to Judge J. J. Carrillo, E. J. Vawter, Hon. John P. Jones, W. S. Vawter, R.
R. Tanner, Esq.. Judge Geo. H. Hutton, Abbot Kinney, Robert F. Jones, L.
T. Fisher, Miss Jennie C. Vawter, Miss Emma Vawter, Dr. John A. Stanwood,
Miss Elfie Moss'e, Col. G. Wiley Wells. Mrs. E. K. Chapin, Rev. J. D. H.
Browne, Mrs. Laura E. Hubbell, W. I. Hull, Mrs. May K. Rindge, J. B. Procter,
S. W. Odell, Rev. Stephen H. Taft, Mrs. Sarah L. Shively and W. B. B. Taylor.
It affords me pleasure to here make due acknowledgment of the valuable literary
service rendered me almost from the inception of this work by Miss Rose L.
Ellerbe. Her mental training and already wide experience in the field of letters
have eminently qualified her for historical labors and I deem it fortunate that,
in this work, I have been able to command her splendid abilities.
The biographical matter with which the general historical chapters are sup
plemented will prove a valuable feature of this work. It permanently records
so much of the personal experience of those who have contributed to the devel
opment of this country and have borne an honorable part in the direction of its
public affairs as to constitute a fairly comprehensive encyclopedia of local bio
graphical reference. Much careful labor has been bestowed upon the com
piling of these sketches. The information has been gathered from published
books, magazines and newspapers, by personal interviews with the subjects
thereof, and relatives of those who have passed away.
A somewhat rigid system of submitting these articles to persons from whom
original information was obtained, has been pursued, for the purpose of assuring
accuracy. In doing this, use was made of the U. S. mail. In some instances
these sketches have not been returned to me corrected and in such cases errors
may appear, for which I must disclaim responsibility. The printing of these
PREFACE
sketches has not in any instance been made contingent upon the payment .of
money or in any other form, the support of my enterprise. Neither have they
been written for the purpose of gratifying a desire of any person to appear con
spicuously in print. I have studiously refrained from writing eulogies upon
the lives of living people. Such form of alleged biography invades the field
of commercialism to such an extent as to render it worthless as history. The
histories of churches and fraternal organizations is by no means as complete as
I desire, because the necessary data was not obtainable. It would have been
impossible to illustrate this volume so liberally only for the public spirit of people
who have in many instances shared with me the burden of expense. The labor
and money expended in the production of this book has been a secondary con
sideration, and to place in the hands of a reading public a reliable and dignified
historical story has been paramount in the author's mind.
LUTHER A. INGERSOLL,
Santa Monica, California. Dec. 1st, 1908.
Ingersoll's Century Series of California
LOCAL HISTORY ANNALS
PREHISTORIC. ABORIGINAL, SPANISH.
MEXICAN. AMERICAN
Century Annals of San Bernardino Co., Calif.
Century History of Santa Monica Bay Cities, Calif.
Century Annals City of Monrovia and its Environs.
L. A. INGERSOLL
Los Angeles
"No community can claim to be highly en-
lig'itened which is content to remain ignorant of
its antecedents, or, in other words, ignorant of
the prime causes that have made it what it is."
— H. D. Barrows.
Contents.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA.
CHATTER. TAGE.
I. Discovery 3-7
II. Colonization. Presidios and Pueblos 8-13
ITT. The Mission Establishments 14-45
IV. From Monarchy to Republicanism 46-49
V. Revolutions and Secularization of Missions 49~54
VI. Free State of Alta California 54'57
VII. Closing Years of Mexican Era 58-66
VIII. Conquest of California 66-77
IX. Transition from Territory to State 77-82
X. Vigilance Committees, Growth and Prosperity 82-90
Governors of California 91
Land Grants in Los Angeles County 92-93
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY.
I. Organization 95~99
II. Stock Raising and Agriculture 101-104
III. Mining and Manufacturing 104-107
IV. Transportation and Commerce 107-1 1 1
V. The Day of the Trolley 112-114
VI. Cities and Towns 114-119
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES.
I. Santa Monica Bay Region 121-139
II. Laying the Foundations. 1870-1880 141-165
III. From Town to City. 1880-1890 167-183
IV. Growth. . 1890-1900 185-209
V. Expansion. 1900-1908 211-243
VI. South Santa Monica and Ocean Park 244-263
VII. Public Institutions 265-287
VIII. Churches and Societies 288-303
IX. Miscellaneous 3°5-3I5
X. The City of Ocean Park 317-325
XI. Venice of America and Its Founder 327-337
XII. Pacific Branch National Home for Disabled Veterans 338-343
XIII. Sawtelle. Palms 345-355
General Index.
Academy of the Holy Names 219
Admission of California 81, 82
Alarcon, Hernando de 4
Alfalfa 104
Alvarado, Pedro de 5
Alvarado, Juan B 53, 55, 56, 57
Anaheim, settled 102
Anzu's route to California 10, u
Arcadia Hotel 168
Arguello. Luis A., governor 46
Artesian Water Co 226, 228
Artesian well, first 103
A. & P. Ry 89. no, 187, 223
Atlantic squadron 243
Annual Assessments Santa Monica... 243
Ballona Junction 310
Ballona Port 168
Ballona Harbor Co 335, 336
Ballona & S. M. Ry 171
Baker, Robert S 142
Bandini. Juan 101
Bank, First National of S. M..I73, 175, 188
Banning, Phineas 107, 109, 1 18
Baptist Church 297
Barrett Villa 347
Battle, of Plains, 74 1 of Dominguez
rancho, 69; San Juan, 71; San Pas-
qual, 72 ; El Paso de Bartola 73
Beach front dispute 152
Beach Land Co 336, 337
Bean culture 233
"Bear Flag" 64, 66
Board of Trade 175, 202, 283
Boca de Santa Monica, grant 136, 170
Boom no, in, 169, 246
Bouchard, privateer 13
Brentwood Park 240
Bulletin, S. F 83
Cable line 112
Cabrillo, Juan Roderiguez 5, 6, 7, 122
Cahuenga, treaty of 61, 75
California, name 4
Capitals, state 86, 87
Carrillo, A. Carlos 55, 56, 181
Carrillo, Jose A 54, 61, 62
Carrillo. Juan J 174. 180, 186, 191
Carrillo, Pedro C 181
Carriage, first in California 106
Casino 306
Castro, General. .54, 56, 59, 61, 62, 65,' 67, 68
Catalina Island 5, 7
Catholic Church 292
Cattle Raising, in California, 88; in
Los Angeles County 101
Chamber of Commerce, Palms, 355 ;
Santa Monica. 283 ; Venice 334
Census, Los Angeles County, 98, 99 :
Santa Monica 287
Chapman, Joseph 13, 47
Charter, Santa Monica. ...216, 220, 238, 239
Chico, Mariano, governor 52, 53
Chinese massacre 99
City hall. Santa Monica.. 215. 217, 219, 225
City Officials 286, 287
City Water Co 251
Civil War, in California 87
Clay products, Los Angeles County. 105, 106
Colton Hall 79
Constitutional Convention 79- 80
Coronado 4, 5
Coronel, Antonio 96, 98
Cortes 3, 4
Court house, Los Angeles 98
Crespi, Father Juan 18
Cricket Club 307
Discovery and Exploration, Santa
Monica region 122
Division of town, Santa Monica
213, 227, 255
Dolgeville 107
Downey, John G 96, 101, 118
Downey, settled 101
Drake, Sir Francis 6
Drought, '57. 101 ; '62-3 lot
Dudley, T. H 253. 257
Earthquake, 1812 29, 33
Echandia, J. M., governor 49, 50, 132
Eckert, (Bob.) 216
Education, in California, 89; in Los
Angeles County 98
Election, first state, 80; first county.. 96
Electric lines 113, 114
El Monte, settled 101
Episcopal Church, Santa Monica 295
Expedition, first to California 8, 9
Ferrelo. Bartolome 6, 7
Filibustering 85
Figueroa. Jose, 50 ; death 52
First Baptist Church, Sawtelle 352
First N. Y. Infantry 76
Fisher, L. T 169, 201, 281. 315
GENERAL INDEX.
Floral Festival 291
Flour mills 106
Foreigners, arrival, 47. 48; fighting,
54; exiled, 56; residents 62
Franciscan order 7
Freighting 109
Fremont. John C.. entry into Califor
nia. 62. 63 ; dispatches. 63 ; at So
noma, 64, 65; raises flag. 66; major,
67; lieutenant-colone!, 71; in south,
74, 75 ; governor 76
Galvez. Jose 8
Carey. T. A 103. 1 16
Oillispie. Captain 68, 69
Gilroy. John 47
Gold,' discovery 77- 78. 97
Good Government League 216. 220
Government, territorial 78, 79
Governors, list of, 94; from Southern
California 97
Grand Army of Republic 302
Gulf of California 4, 5. 8
Gwin, Wm. M 79, 80
Harbor question 190. 201
Hartnell. W. E. P 48, 79
Hawe. Father Patrick 292
Herald. S. F 83
Hijar and Padres party 50. 51
Holt. D. G 282
"Hook" franchise 223, 224
Horse Racing 134, 135
Horticultural production, Los Angeles
County 104
Hotchkiss. A. B 245
Hull, W. 1 225
Incorporated towns 115. 119
Incorporation. Ocean Park, 318; Santa
Monica, 169; Sawtelle 350
Indians .122, 123, 125
Irrigation systems, Los Angeles County 102
Investment Co., Santa Monica 232
Jaynie, Father Luis 16
Jimenez Fortuna 3. 4
Jesuits 8
Jones. J. P 144. 152, 157, 173, 175
Juez de Campo 96
Kearney. Stephen W 72, 73. 75, 76
Keller. Mathew 102, 128
Kinney, A
170, 173. 197, 248, 257, 259, 273, 327
King, James 83
La Ballona. grant 137, 139
Land grants, list of 92, 93
Land grants. Los Angeles County 96
Larkin, Thomas O 71
Lasuen, Father Francisco 19
Lawn Tennis Club 305
Library 186, 271
Library Site Fund, Contributors to... 276
Long Beach 1 16
Los Angeles County, created, 96 ;
boundaries 96
Los Angeles, pueblo, u, 12; the cap
ital, 61 ; capture 68
L. A. Co. Ry 174, 175, 187. 307
Los Angeles & Independence Ry.. or
ganized, 144; built, 151; sold, 153;
history 308
L. A.-R Ry
113, 114, 192, 193, 194, 197, 221, 255
Lucas, Nancy A 244, 248
Machado, Augustin. 137; Ygnacio, 137,
138 ; Antonio 138, 139
Mails, in Los Angeles County 108
Malibu rancho 124, 129, 130
Manufactured products, Los Angeles
County 107
Marquez, Francisco 132, 136, 137
Martinez. Father Luis 27
Mason, Gov 78
Mendocino, Cape 6
Methodist Church. Santa Monica 288
Militia Company. Santa Monica 196
Military camps, Ballona, 139; Wilming
ton 118
Mining, in California, 88; in Los An
geles County 104
Mission establishments, description. . 14, 6t
Moncada. Rivera y 9, 10
Monrovia 117
Monterey Bay 5, 6, 7, 9
Monterey, capture of 57
Mormon Battalion 76
Mooney Mansion 244
Neve, Felipe de 10, n, 12
Newspapers 279
North Beach Bath house 190, 210
Ocean Park 254
Ocean Park District, 1898, 252; 1899.
253; 1900, 254; 1901, 255; 1902, 257;
1903 259
Ocean Park 227, 236. 249, 250. 252, 317
Ocean Park, incorporation. 318; census,
318; election, 319; Improvement Co.,
319; growth, 321; sewage, 321; li
censes. 322 ; values, 323 ; bonds, 324 ;
postoffice. 324 ; City hall 325
Oi'ed Streets 240
Orange County 96
Orange growing 103
Ostrich Farm, Santa Monica 246
Outdoor pastimes 305
Outlook, Santa Monica 147, 280
Pacific Branch National Home for
Disabled Veterans 338
Pacific Electric 113, 114
GENERAL INDEX.
Pacific Land Co 347
Palisades tract 231
Palms 171, 352
Pasadena 1 1 5
Pentecostal Church of Nazarene 299
Peyri. Father 42. 43
Petroleum, in Los Angeles County. . .104-5
Petroleum production 105
Philippines, trade with 5- 7
Pico, Andres 72. 75, 135
Pico. Pio, governor 60. 61, 67, 68. 117
Pious Fund 51
Playa del Rev 334
Police department 193
Point Dume 121
Polo Club 307
Pomona 101, 103, 116
Population, state, 82, 83; Los Ange'es
County, 112, 114; city, 115; Santa
Monica, 167, 185, 220. 287; Ocean
Park 3'8
Port Los Angeles 198
Port, of San Pedro 107. 108
Portala, Caspar de, first governor of
California 9, 10, 123
Postoffice. 186; Ocean Park 263, 282
Presbyterian Church, Santa Monica... 290
Presidio, description 10
Prudhomme, Leon V 126, 127
Pueblo, Spanish 10, 1 1
Purisima Concepcion, mission 34
Quivera 5
Railroads, in California 88. 89
Rate war no, 168, 169, 170
Raymond Hotel 115
Reminiscences . 312
Redondo 119
Reyes. Ysidro 132, 136, 137
Rindge. F. H 128, 21 1, 216, 231
Rowland. Col. J. G 341
Rose, L. J 102, 103, ii 5
Russians, in California 47
Ryan, Francis G 248, 253
Salt Lake line Hi
Saloon question 195. 211, 216
San Antonio de Padua 19
San Bernardino County, 96; settle
ment no
San Buenaventura, mission 31
San Carlos, mission 9, 17
Sanchez, Padre Jose B 24
San Diego Bay 5. 7, 9
San Diego, Mission 9, 15
San Fernando Rev de Espana 40
San Francisco Bay 9
San Francisco de Asis 27
San Francisco de Solano 45
San Francisco, presidio 1 1
San Gabriel Arcangel 20
San Jose, mission 36
San Jose, pueb'o n
San Juan Bautista 37
San Juan Capistrano 28
San Miguel Arcangel 39
San Luis Obispo de Toloso 26
San Luis Rev de Francia 42
San Pedro, bay, 5, 7; port, 107, 108;
town iicS
San Rafael, mission 45
San Vicente y Santa Monica, grant.
132; sale 142
Santa Barbara, presidio and mission..
n, 12. 32
Santa Clara, mission 29
Santa Cruz, mission, 34; town 35
Santa Fe RV....IIO. 168, 187, 223, 248, 309
Santa Monica Bay 121
Santa Monica Canyon 141, 143
Santa Monica Fire Dept.. 278
Santa Monica. History, 1885, 167;
1886, 168; 1887. 169; 1888. 173; 1889.
175; 1890. 185; 1891. 187; 1892, 187;
1893, 188; 1894. 189; 1895. 190; 1896,
193; 1897. 194; 1898, 195; 1899, 197;
1900, 21 1 ; 1901, 216; 1902, 230; 1903,
224; 1904, 226; 1905, 229; 1906, 240;
1907 241
Santa Monica Hotel 175
Santa Monica Incorporation 169
Santa Monica Lodge No. 906, B. P.
O. E 303
Santa Monica, name. 123; legend, 123;
settlement 124
Santa Monica, street cars
171, 176, 185, 194, 197, 309
Santa Monica, townsite, 145 ; first sale,
145, 146; first building, 146; first
train 149
Santa Monica Water Co 194
Santa Monica Wharf & Ry. Terminal
Co ". 179, 180
Santa Ynez, Virgin y Martyr 44
Sawtelle, history 345
Sawtelle, W. E 349
School, first in state, 90; in Los Ange
les County 98
Schools, Ocean Park, 322; Sawtelle,
346, 348; South Santa Monica 247
Schools, Santa Monica, bonds. 237 ;
enrollment, 270; history, 265; prin
cipals, 270; trustees 263
Seal, state tb
Sewer bonds
189, 192, 195, 196, 221, 235, 236. 241
Secularization, decree, 51; plan, 51, 52;
result 61
Sepulveda, Francisco, 132; Jose, 133;
Fernando 135
Serra. Junipero 8, 15
Serra Vista 231
Serria, Father Vicente de 47
Sisters of Holy Name 198, 219
Slaverv in California 81, 79, 80
INDEX TO VIEWS.
Sloat. John D., raises flag 65, 66
Smuggling 127
Sola, Governor 46
Soldiers in Los Angeles County 99
Soldiers' Home 171
Sutton, Florence 306
Solcdad, mission 3<5
South Santa Monica 219. 245
South Santa Monica, history, 1874,
244; 1875. 245; 1876. 245; 1887-8,
246; 1889, 247; 1890. 248; 1892, 248;
1893. 249; 1895. 250; 1896, 250; 1897,
251; 1904-7 261
So. Pac. R
...88, 89, 109, 144, 154, 187, 197, 203. 309
Stage routes 108, 109
State division 97
State Forestry Station 311
Steamer, first 107
Stearns, Abel 96
Street car line, first in Los Angeles... 112
Stockton, R. F.. arrives, 67; at San Pe
dro. 70; San Diego, 70; Battle of
Plains, 74 ; superseded 75
Sugar beets 104
Sutler, John A 60, 61
Taft, Rev. S. H 345
Tapia, Jose B., 126; Tiburcio 126-7, 128
Tell's Lookout 334
Tennis Tournaments 3o5
Territorial government 78, 79
Terry, David S 84, 85
Topanga Malibu 125
Topography. Santa Monica region.... 121
Trade, with Boston, 48; Philippines. . .5, 7
Traction Co 223
Transportation 308
Treaty. Cahuenga. 61, 75; Guadalupe
Hidalgo 76
Treichel, Col. Charles 339
Truxton "scheme" 143
Ulloa. Francisco de 4
U. S. Senators 07
Upham, Major F. K 342
Vallejo, M. G 58
Values, Santa Monica, 1880, 167; 1890,
185, 228, 234, 239, 258
Vawter family 146, 159, 245
Vawter, Edwin James 164. 250, 254
Vawter, Williamson Dunn... 159, 188, 292
Vawter, William S 162, 188, 221, 250
Venice 229
Venice of America, 330; plans, 331;
growth, 332; Assembly. 332; break
water, 332; Chamber of Commerce.. 334
Victoria, Manuel, governor 49
Viglantes, Los Angeles, 53; San Fran
cisco 82, 83, 84, 85
Viscaino, Sebastian 7, 123
Warner, J. J 96, 97
Water Co., Sawtelle 349
Wells Fargo 108
Westgate 229
Wharf, first. 145: abandoned. 155;
Bernard, 156; fight 177, 196, 248
Wheat raising, Los Angeles County. . . 102
Whittier 117
Wilson, B. D 96, 102, 103, 115, 118, 119
Wilmington 107, 1 18
Wine making 102, 128
Wolfskill. William 103
W. C. T. U 186, 243, 272, 299
Woman's Club, Santa Monica 301
Y. M. C. A. of Southern California.. 249
Zalvidea, Father Jose M 21
INDEX TO VIEWS.
Admission of California into Union. ... 82
Arch Rock 122
Brentwood 232
Brentwood Park 240
Brice. J. L., Residence 320
Church of Our Lady of the Angels. ... 95
City Hall, Ocean Park 323
City Hall. Santa Monica 217
Creating Venice 330
Colton Hall, Monterey, First State
Capitol ". 79
Court House, Los Angeles Co 94
First Methodist Church 288
Fire House, Dept. No. i 278
Hotel. Santa Monica 176
La Purisima Concepcion, Mission of . . . 34
La Soledad, Mission of 36
Library, Carnegie Public 271
Mexican Custom House S?
North Third Street. Santa Monica.... 188
"Old" Court House, Los Angeles County 98
Port Los Angeles 207
Saddle, military, Don Andres Pico. . . . 108
San Antonio de Padua. Mission of. . . 19
San Buenaventura. Mission of 31
San Carlos Borromeo de Monterey,
Mission of 18
San Diego de Alcala, Mission of 16
San Fernando Rey de Espana, Mis
sion of 41
San Francisco de Asis, Mission of. ... 28
San Francisco de Solano. Mission of.. 45
INDEX TO PORTRAITS.
San Gabriel Arcangel, Mission of 21
San Jose, Mission of 36
San Juan Bautista, Mission of 37
San Juan Capistrano, Mission of 29
San Luis Obispo de Toloso, Mission of 27
San Luis Rey de Francia, Mission of.. 43
San Miguel Arcangel. Mission of 40
San Rafa"el, Mission of 45
San Vicente Ranch House 133
Santa Barbara, Mission of 32
Santa Clara, Mission of 30
Santa Cruz, Mission of 35
Santa Monica Beach, 1878 143
Santa Monica, First Church 151
Santa Monica, First House 136
Santa Ynez, Mission of 44
Sawtelle, First House 346
Sawtelle Public School 348
Sixth Street School 268
Soldiers' Home 342
State Capitol. Benicia 86
State Capitol, Sacramento 87
Timm's Landing 1 18
Topanga Canyon 126
Venice Lake 333
INDEX TO PORTRAITS.
Armstrong, R. W 210
Archer. A. N 399
Bane, Ralph 238
Banning, Gen. Phineas 107
Barrows, Henry D 391
Blanchard, J. D 264
Browne, J. D. H. 296
Burnett, Peter H 81
Carpenter, Stephen 477
Carrillo, Jose Antonio 54
Carrillo, J. J 166
Chapman. W. R 472
Clark. J. H 274
Coffman. H. L 210
Corey. G. W., M.D 465
Coronel. Antonio F 99
Council. City S. M 210
Crum, Rev. J. D 148
Dales, E. V 264
Davis, Orin 39=;
Dike. E. W 356
Dobbings. J. H 452
Dollard, Robert 302
Dow, Roscoe H 210
Downey, John G 97
Eakins," II. B 316
Engelbrecht. H. J 264
Foster, G. W 316
Fremont. John C 2 and 62
Gillis, W. T 234
Gird. E. C 420
Goetz, H. X 225
Griffith. Hester T 423
Griffith, E 316
Gwin, Wm. M 80
Hamilton. N. H., M.D 218
Hawe, Rev. Patrick 294
Hemingway, J. C 222
Holt, D. G 264 and 280
Hull, W. 1 172
Hutton, Geo. H 214
Ingersoll, L. A Frontispiece
Jewett, O. W 354
Johnston. A. F 242
Jones, Hon. John P 120
Keller, Don Mateo 128
Kimball, Myron H 371
Kinney, Abbot ._ 326
Larkin, Thomas 0 71
Lawton, Frank D 304
Machado. J. D 494
Mackinnon, J. D 316
Mayer, H. C 316
Miles, J. Euclid 210
Mil'er, R. M 264
Mitchell, H. L 488
Morris, Alf 210
Nellis, Clarence J 431
Odell, S. W 381
Palmer, W. M 447
Petsch, Adolph 457
Pico, Andres 75
Pico, Pio 100
Pierce, Grace Adele 439
Putnam, R. G 482
Quinn. Bernard 407
Rebok, H. M 264
Reel, Abe S 210
Rile, H. F 443
Rindge, Frederick H 129
Sepulveda, Jose Dolores 132
Serra, Junipero 15
Shive'y. Daniel 414
Shively. Sarah L 415
Sloat, John D 65
Smith, N. R., D.D.S 433
Smith, P. H 495
Snyder, Gco. D 210
Snyder, W. P 264
Stearns, Don Abel 106
Stockton. Robert F 67
Taft, Fred H 376
Taft, Stephen H 344
Tanner, R. R 230
Taylor, Rev. and Mrs. George 411
Taylor, W. B. B 404
INDEX TO BIOGRAPHIES.
Towner, Charles E 154
Trustees, City of Ocean Park 316
Tullis, O. G 385
Turner, Daniel 492
Vallejo. Gen. M. G 58
Vawter, E. J - • 160
Vawter, E. J., Jr 262
Vawter, W. D 140
Vawter, W. S 184
Wells, G. Wiley 134
Wyant. A. H 351
INDEX TO BIOGRAPHIES.
Alton, Daniel 397
Archer. A. N 399
Armstrong. R. W 481
Badillo. P. M 509
Baida. N. G 462
Raker. Robert S 142
Baker, E. H 481
Bandini, Juan 463
Bane. Ralph 441
Barrows, H. D 391
Berkley. S. L. 408
Bishop. B. R 481
Blanchard. J. D 412
Boehme, Geo. C 455
Boehme, Geo 402
Bontty, E. F 441
Bouck, C. A 432
Brice, J. L 428
Brickner. John 462
Brooks, F. W 442
Browne, J. D. H 434
Bundy, F. E 383
Bundy. Nathan 431
Busier, A 382
Calkins. A. H 419
Carrillo, J. J 180
Carpenter, Stephen 477
Case, L. H., M.D 437
Chapin, E. K 495
Chapman. W. R 472
Cheney, C. C 512
Clark. Joseph H 359
Collins, Mrs. Catharine 461
Connelly, T. J 454
Corey, Geo. W., M.D 465
Crane, H. M 489
Dales, C. S 453
Dales, E. V 470
1 )ales, John B 454
Davis. J. J 450
Davis. Orin, M.D 395
Devore, W. E 471
Dike, E. W 357
Dobbings. J. H 453
Dobson. R. C 460
Dollard. Robert 417
Dow, R. H 429
Dudley, T. H 427
Kakins, H. B 430
Edinger, C. L 491
Finch, F. J 492
Foster, G. W 448
French. J. G 509
Gillis, W. T 381
Gird. E. C 421
Griffith, Elijah 423
Griffith, Hester T 423
Grigsby. Tas. H 475
Grimes, R. R 413
Goodrich, L. B 493
Goetz, H. X 401
Gtiidinger. A. M 471
Guntrup. John 455
Hamilton, N. H.. M.D 369
Hammond, 'H. N 421
Hancock. A. K 473
Hawe, Rev. P 362
Hemingway, J. C 394
Hodgson. J. 0 418
Ho'lwedel. H. C 49O
Holt, D. G 479
Hudson. M. L 425
Hull, W. 1 367
Hunt, J. S., M.D 476
Hunter, Benj. S 4'6
Houston, H. E 467
Hntton. George H 361
Tngersoll. L. G 468
Ingersoll. L. . A 446
Jackson, Arthur E 459
Jackson, William 365
Jewett, O. W 385
Jones. John Percival 157
Tohnston. A. F 360
Keener, J. P 487
Kendall. W. M., M.D 510
Kennedy. J. W 510
Kimball, Mvron H 37'
Kinney, Abbott 327
Kirkelie. O. A 490
Langdon, F. C 389
Lawton, Frank 435
Le Bas, Charles 375
Limit. J 478
London, J. A 486
Lowe, Thomas R 435
Machado. J. D 494
Mayer, H. C 469
McClellan, R. F 409
Meloy, Daniel 400
INDEX TO BIOGRAPHIES.
Meloy, H. T 461
Metcalf, John 403
Miles, Elam C 438
Miles, J. Euclid 374
Mitchell, H. L 4^8
Montgomery, A. M 384
Morris, Alf 451
Mundell, Walter 449
Nellis, C. J 431
O'Callasrhan, Rev. J. A 456
Odell, S. W 381
Palmer, W. M 447
Parrish, I. E 413
Parrish, W. F 410
Petsch, Ado'ph 457
Pevcler, J. J 511
Phillips. R. A 511
Pierce, Grace A 439
Procter. J. B 483
Pruess, E. A 443
Putnam, R. G 482
Qninn. Bernard 407
Rile. H. F 443
Rindge. Frederick Hastings 128
Rogers. C. W 445
Sawtelle, W. E 364
Sepnlveda. Jose Dolores 512
Seymour, J. J 387
Schofield. Tom 440
Schnltz, Henry 488
Sclnitte. G. W 464
Sibley, Mrs. Geo 474
Simpson, J. D 458
Shiveley, Daniel 414
Smale, J. B. E 456
Smith, W. S., M.D 511
Smith, J. L 466
Smith. N. R., D.D.S 433
Smith, P. H 495
Snyder, W. P 467
Snyder, Geo. D 366
Sonnesyn, P. H 485
Stanwood, John A 377
Smnmerfield, K. B 390
Taft. Fred H 376
Taft, S. H 496
Talkington, S. N 438
Talkington, J. S 406
Tanner, R. R 373
Taylor, W. B. B 405
Taylor. Rev. George 411
Todd, J. W 388
Towner, C. C 493
Towner, C. E 363
Tttllis, O. G 385
Turner, Daniel 492
Vache, A 475
Valenzuela, Jose 478
Van Tress, B. F 422
Vawter, Aramatha Charlotte. 162;
Charles Knowlton, .165; Edwin
James, 164; Edwin James, Jr., 165;
Emma Knowlton. 164; Jane Cra
ven, 162; May, 162; Mary Ellen,
161 ; Williamson Dunn, 169; Wil
liam S 162
Watkeys, L. C 482
Wells, G. Wiley 378
Westover, O. S 484
Wilber, H. P 48s
Woodruff, W. W 476
Wyant, A. H 426
GLOSSARY.
Ahadcsa. Abbess.
Abajenos. Inhabitants of Southern Cali
fornia.
Acequia. Ditch, canal.
A.'Dois. Good bye, (God be with you).
Adobe. Black adhesive soil.
Adobes. Suhdried bricks of adobe.
Agua. Water.
Aguardiente. Brandy.
Alameda. Walk under trees.
Alabado. Hymn in praise of the sacrament.
Alcalde mayor. Magistrate of a district.
Aliso. Alder tree.
Alta. Upper, above.
Amo. Master, owner.
Arroyo. A small stream.
Ayuntamiento. Municipal council.
Rahia. Bay.
Rando. Edict.
Baja. Below, lower.
Ridarka. Skin boat.
Bienes. Property.
Blanco. White.
Boca. Mouth.
Bonita. Pretty.
Rrazo de mar. Arm of the sea.
Rrea. Pitch.
Rronco. Unbroken horse.
Bin-no. Good.
Buenos dias. Good morning.
Caba'lo. Horse.
Cabo. Cape.
Caion. Box. chest.
Calle. Street.
Camino. Way.
Campana. Bell.
Campanula. Small bell.
Campo. Field.
Canada. Glen or dale between mountains.
Campo santo. Graveyard.
Canon. A tube, deep ravine.
Capilla. Chapel.
Carreta. Cart.
C'arta. Letter, chart.
Casa Grande. Large house.
Castillo. Castle, fort.
Catalina. Catherine.
Cienega. A marsh.
Cigarritos. Cigarets.
Ciiulad. City.
Comandante. Commander.
Compadre. Friend, comrade, godfather.
Comisario. Commisary, a treasury official.
Concepcion. Conception.
Coyote. A small California wolf.
Corbata. Cravat.
Corral. A pen for live stock, or for poultry.
Cuero. Hide of cattle or horses.
Dehesas. Pasture lands.
Dias. Days.
Diablo. Devil.
Dinero. Money.
Diego. James.
Diputacion. Deputy, committee.
Dolores. Sorrows.
Don. Mr.
Dona. Mistress.
Embarcadero. Place of embarkation.
Enchiladas. Cornmeal cakes in chile sauce.
Enfermo. Sick.
Encino. Oak.
Engano. Deceit, mistake, fraud.
Ensenada. Creek, small bay.
Espanol. Spanish.
Entrada. Entrance, invasion, incursion.
Escoltas. Mission guard.
Escondido. Hidden.
Escrito. Writing or written.
Estado. State.
Fandango. Dance.
Fierro. Branding iron.
Fiesta. Feast Day.
Frey. Father of a religious order.
Frijoles. Beans.
Fuego. Fire.
F'imos. Smoky.
Galeria. Galley.
Canado. Live stock, cattle.
Gefepolitico. Political chief.
Gente de Razon. Spaniards and Mexicans —
distinguished from Indians.
Gobenador. Governor.
Gracias. Favors, thanks, eraces.
Hacienda. Country home.
Hambre. Hunger.
Hermano. Brother.
Hermoso. Handsome.
Herrar. To brand.
Hidalgo. One of gentle birth.
Hija. Daughter.
Hijos del pais. Native sons. Sons of the
country.
Hombre. Man
Isla. Isle.
Juez del campo. Judge of the plains.
Tugador. Gambler.
Junta. Assembly.
GLOSSARY.
Juramento. Oath.
Lagnna. Small lake.
Legua. League.
Libros. Books.
Llano. Plain.
Llavero. Keeper of the keys. In the mis
sions, the store keeper.
Lomeras. Ridges of hills, or mountains.
Maclre. Mother.
Maestro. Master.
Mai. Evil, complaint.
Mariana. Morning, tomorrow.
Manteca. Tallow.
Mantilla. Head cover for women.
Mariposa. Butterfly.
Maromeros. Rope dancers.
Matanza. Slaughter-yard.
Major-domo. Steward, overseer.
Mecate. Mexican for rope.
Medio real. Half a real, or 6}/j cents.
Memorias. Memoranda.
Metate. A curved grinding stone.
Mejicano. Mexican.
Mezcal. A liquor made from the maguey
plant.
Molino. Mi'l.
Morro. Steep cliff.
Mesa. Table land.
Milpas. Indian corn-fields.
Muchacho. Boy.
Negro. Black.
Xeolita. A converted Indian.
Xoclie. Night.
Nuestra Senor. Our Lord.
Xnestra Sefiora. Our Lady.
Nuestra Senora d" Los Angeles. Our Lady
of the Angels.
Nuevo. New.
Ojo. Eye.
Oleo. The sacred oil.
Olla. A round earthen pot.
Orden. Order, command.
Ordenanza. Ordinances.
Orejano. Wild. Res orejano de fierro.
Cattle marked on the ears.
Oso. Bear.
Oro. Gold.
Padre. Father.
Pais. Country.
Palacio. Palace.
Pasajes. Valleys.
Patio. Court.
Peon. A game at dice.
Pinole. Drink of cornmeal, water and sugar.
Pinos. Pine.
Playa. Sea beach.
Plaza. Square, market place.
Pobladores. Settlers, founders of a town.
Poco. Little.
"Pozole. Beans boiled with corn or wheat.
Potrero. Pasture.
Pozo. Spring.
Presidio. Garrison.
Primo. First.
Pronunciamento. Proclamation.
Propriedad. Proprietorship, etc.
Pueb'o. City.
Publica. Public.
Puerto. Port, harbor.
Rnmada. A bush house, or shed.
Rancheria. An Indian village.
R-Michita. Small ranch.
Rancho. Farm, range.
Realistas. Royalists.
Real. Spanish coin worth T2'/> cents.
Reata. A rope of rawhide for lassoing
cattle.
Rebosa. Shawl. Worn over the head.
Rcglemento. Regulation.
Realengo. Royal, kingly.
Rcgidor. Alderman. Director.
Revolucionario. Revolutionist.
Roble. Oak tree.
Rio. River.
Rodeo. Rounding up of cattle.
Salinas. Salt marshes.
Seco. Dry.
Scguridad. Safety, securely.
Sierra Nevada. Ridge of mountains covered
with snow.
Sierra. Ridge of mountains.
Silla. Chair, or saddle.
Silla vaquera. Saddle used by vaquero.
Sitio. Small stock range.
Soherano. Sovereign, supreme.
Sobrante. Residue, left over.
Soldado. Soldier.
Sombrero. Hat.
Suertes. Fields.
Surefios. Southerners.
Tamale. Indian meal dumpling stuffed with
minced meat, chicken, etc.
Tasajo. Jerked beef.
Tecolcro. Master of ceremonies at a ball.
Tecolotc. Species of owl.
Temblor. Shake.
Temblor de tierra. Earthquake.
Terreno. Ground.
Testigo. Witness.
Tonto. Stupid, foolish.
Tortillas. Little cakes, pancakes.
Trabaj adores. Laborers.
Tule. Reed, native grown.
Tuna. Cactus plant.
Vaquero. Cow herder.
Vara. Rod, staff, yard measure.
Venta. Sale mark of cattle.
Violincito. A small fiddle.
Vinero. One who cares for vines.
Vocal. Voting member of a corporation.
Vino. Wine.
Visitador. Visiter, surveyor.
Yerba. Herb.
Zanja. Irrigating ditch.
Zanjero. One in charge of a zanja.
JOHN C. FREMONT.
Brief History of California.
CHAPTER I.
DISCOVERY.
R
OMANCE enters into the story of
California with its very beginning.
When Gondalez de Sandoval, in 1 524,
gave to Cortes an account of a wonderful
island ten days to the westward from the
Pacific Coast of Mexico, inhabited by women
only and exceedingly rich in pearls and gold,
he no doubt derived his information from
Montalvo's romance, " Sergas de Esplandian."
Cortes seems to have given credence to his
lieutenant's story and to have kept in view
the discovery of this wonderful island, Cali
fornia. The discovery of what is now known as the peninsula of Lower
California, but which was then supposed to be an island, by Fortuna Jiminez,
in 153-1, no doubt confirmed in Cortes' mind the truth of Sandoval's story,
told him a decade before. For did not the island of Jiminez, like the island
of Montalvo's fiction, lie on the right hand of the Indies, or where the Indies
were then supposed to be ? Pearls . were found on it and gold and the
Amazons must be there, too.
Fortuna Jiminez, the discoverer of Lower California, was chief pilot on
one of the ships which Cortes, in 1533, fitted out to explore the northwest coast
of Mexico. A mutiny broke out on the ship commanded by Becerro de Men-
doza. He was killed and his friends forced to go on shore at Jalisco. The muti
neers, commanded by Jiminez, sailed westerly away from the coast of the main
land. After several days of sailing out of sight of the main land, they discov
ered what they supposed to be an island and landed at what is now known as
La Paz. in Lower California. There Jiminez and twenty of his followers were
killed by the Indians ; the few survivors of the ill-fated crew managed to navi
gate the vessel back to Jalisco, where they reported the discovery of an island
rich in pearls.
4 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
Cortes, hearing the report and probably believing the island to be the Cali
fornia of the story, fitted out an expedition to colonize it. With three ships and
a number of soldiers and settlers, he landed in May, 1535, at the place where
Jiminez was killed, which he named Santa Cruz ; but instead of an island peo
pled with women who lived after the manner of Amazons and whose arms and
trappings were made of gold, he found a sterile country inhabited by the most
abject and degraded of beings. Disaster after disaster fell upon the unfortu
nate colony. Some of the ships sent to bring supplies were wrecked and others
driven out of their course. Some of the colonists died from starvation before
the supplies reached them and others from over-eating afterwards. After two
•"ears of struggling against misfortune, Cortes abandoned the attempt and the
wretched colonists were brought back to Mexico. Thus ended the first effort
to colonize California.
Some time between 1535 and 1537 the name California was applied to the
land still supposed to be an island ; but whether Cortes applied it in the hope of
encouraging his colonists or whether the country was so named in derision, is
not known. The name was subsequently applied to all the land along the Pa
cific Coast northward to 42 degrees, the limit of the Spanish possessions.
The vast unexplored regions to the northward of that portion of Mexico
which he had conquered had a fascination for Cortes. He dreamed of finding
in them empires vaster and richer than those he had already subdued. For
years he fitted out expeditions by sea and by land to explore this terra incognita ;
but failure after failure wrecked his hopes and impoverished his purse. The
last of the parties was the one commanded by Francisco de Ulloa, who in 1539
sailed up the Gulf of California on the Sonora side to its head, and then down
the inner coast of Lower California to the cape at its extremity, which he doubled
and sailed thence northward to Cabo de Engano (Cape of Deceit.) Here the
two vessels of the expedition, after being tossed and buffeted by head winds,
parted company in a storm. The smaller returned to Santiago. Of the other
which was directly under Ulloa's command, nothing is definitely known — nor
of Ulloa's fate. The only thing accomplished by this voyage was to demon
strate that California was a peninsula, although even this fact was not fully
accepted for two centuries after this. Cortes returned to Spain in 1540, where
after vainly trying to obtain from the King some recognition of his services and
some recompense for his outlay, he died — a disappointed and impoverished man.
The next voyage which had anything to do with the discovery and explora
tion of California was that of Hernando de Alarcon. With two ships he sailed
from Acapulco, May 9, 1540, up the Gulf of California. His object was to co
operate with Coronado. The latter, with an army of 400 men, had marched
from Culiscan, April 22, 1540, to discover and conquer the "Seven Cities of
Cibola," which the romancing friar, Marcos de Niza, "led by the Holy Ghost"
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 5
and blessed with a fertile imagination, claimed to have seen somewhere in the
wilds of what is now Arizona. Alarcon, at the head of the gulf, discovered
the mouth of a great river. Up this stream, which he named Buena Guia —
now the Colorado — he claimed to have sailed eighty-five leagues. He was
probably the first white man to set foot in the territory now included in the State
of California.
While Coronado was still absent in search of the Seven Cities, and of
Quivera, a country rich in gold, lying somewhere in the interior of the continent,
the successor of Cortes entered into a compact with Pedro de Alvarado, Gov
ernor of Guatemala, who had a fleet of ships lying at anchor in the harbor of
Natividad, Mexico, to unite their forces in an extensive scheme of exploration
and conquest. An insurrection broke out among the Indians of Jalisco and in
trying to suppress it Alvarado was killed. The return of Coronado dispelled
the myths of Cibola and Quivera and put an end, for the time, to further ex
ploration of the interior regions to the north of Mexico.
On the death of Alvarado, his successor, Mendoza, placed five ships under
the command of Ruy Lopez de Villalobas and sent them to the Islas de Poniente
(Isles of the Setting Sun — now Philippines) to establish trade. Two ships of
the fleet, under the command of Juan Roderiguez Cabrillo, were sent to explore
the northwest coast of the Pacific. He sailed from Natividad June 27, 1542;
on August 3ofh they reached Cabo de Engano, the most northern point of Ulloa's
exploration. Continuing his voyage along the coast, he discovered a number
of bays and islands. On Sept. 23, 1542, Cabrillo entered a fine bay called by
him San Miguel, now San Diego Bay. After three days further sailing he
sighted the islands which he named San Salvador and Vitoria, after his vessels,
now Catalina and San Clemente. From these islands he crossed to the main
land on Oct. 8th and entered a bay which he named Bahia de los Fumos (Bay
of Smokes), now San Pedro Bay. After entering a bight, supposed to have
been Santa Monica, he continued northwestward, passed through the Santa Bar
bara channel and discovered the islands of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa and San
Miguel. Going on up the coast, he found a long narrow point of land extend
ing into the sea, which from its resemblance to a galley boat, he called Cabo de
la Galeria, now Point Conception. November i7th he doubled Point of Pines
and entered Monterey Bay, which he called Bahia de los Pinos (Bay of Pines.)
Finding it impossible to land on account of the heavy seas, he proceeded north
ward until he reached 40 degrees, north latitude, as he estimated. On account
of cold weather and storms he turned back and ran down to San Miguel, where
he decided to winter. Here, from the effects of a fall, he died Jan. 3, 1543, and
was buried on the island. His companions renamed the island Juan Roderiguez,
after their brave commander; but he did not retain even this small honor. The
discoverer of California sleeps in an unknown grave.
6 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
The command devolved on the chief pilot, Bartolome Ferrelo, who prose
cuted the voyage with a courage and daring equal to that shown by Cabrillo.
On Feb. 28th he discovered a point of land which he named Cape Mendocino
in honor of the Viceroy. Passing this cape, he encountered a furious storm,
which drove him violently to the northeast and greatly endangered his ships.
On March 1st the fogs lifted and he saw Cape Blanco in the southern part of
what is now Oregon. The weather continuing stormy and the cold increasing,
Ferrelo was compelled to turn. back. Off the coast of San Clemente the ships
were driven apart and did not come together again until they reached the Cerros
Islands. In sore distress for provisions they arrived at Natividad, April 18, 1543.
The next navigator who visited California was Sir Francis Drake, an Eng
lishman. He was not so much seeking new lands as trying to find a way of
escape from capture by the Spanish. Francis Drake, the sea-king of Devon
and one of the bravest of men, sailed from Plymouth Dec. 13, 1577, in com
mand of a fleet of five small vessels on a privateering expedition against the
Spanish settlements of the Pacific Coast. When he sailed out of the Straits of
Magellan into the South Sea, he had but one ship left, all the others had been
lost or had turned back. With this small vessel he began a career of plunder
ing among the Spanish settlements that for boldness, daring and success has
had no equal in the world's history. The quaint chronicler of the voyage sums
up the proceeds of his raids at "eight hundred and sixty-five thousand pesos of
silver, a hundred thousand pounds of gold and other things of great worth."
Plundering as he moved, he reached the port of Guatulco on the coast of
Oaxaca. Surfeited with spoils and with his ship laden to her fullest capacity,
it became a necessity for him to find a new way home. In the language of the
chronicler, "He thought it was not good to return by the straits, lest the Span
iards should attend for him in great numbers." So he sailed away to the north
ward to find the Straits of Anian, which were supposed to connect the North
Pacific with the Atlantic. For two hundred years after the discovery of Amer
ica, navigators searched for that mythical passage. Drake, keeping well out to
sea, sailed northward for two months. The cold, the head winds and the leaky
condition of his craft compelled him to turn back and he sailed clown the coast
until he found a safe harbor under the lee of a promontory, now Point Reyes.
Here he repaired his ship, took formal possession of the country in the name of
his sovereign, Queen Elizabeth, and named it New Albion, from a fancied re
semblance to his homeland. He had his chaplain, Parson Fletcher, preach a
sermon to the natives ; this did not greatly impress them, we are told, but they
took delight in the psalm singing. After a stay of thirty-six days, on July 23d,
1579, Drake sailed for England and after nearly three years of absence, during
which he had circumnavigated the globe, he reached home safely and was knighted
bv Elizabeth.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
Sixty years passed after Cabrillo's voyage before another Spanish explorer
visited California. The chief object of Sebastian Viscaino's voyage was to find a
harbor of refuge for the Philippine galleons. These vessels on their return voy
age sailed northward until they struck the Japan current, which they followed
across the ocean until they reached the vicinity of Cape Mendocino, then sailed
along the coast to Acapulco. Viscaino started from Acapulco May 5, 1602,
with three ships and 160 men. Following substantially the course that Cabrillo
had taken, he anchored in Cabrillo's Bay of San Miguel, which he called San
Diego, in honor of his flagship. He remained there ten days, then proceeded
up the coast and on the 26th anchored in a bay which he called Ensenada de San
Andreas, now San Pedro. He visited Cabrillo's San Salvador, to which he gave
the present name of Santa Catalina and changed the name of Vitoria to San
Clemente. He gave the name of Santa Barbara to that channel and visited the
channel islands. He saw many towns on the mainland and the natives came
off in their canoes and visited the vessels. On Dec. i6th Viscaino entered
Monterey Bay, as he named it in honor of the Viceroy who had fitted out- the
expedition. The scurvy had broken out on ship and sixteen men were already
dead. The San Tomas was sent back to Acapulco with the sick; with his two
remaining vessels Viscaino continued his voyage northward, reaching Cape
Blanco. But at this point he, too, was compelled to turn backward. The scurvy
had made fearful inroads on his crews and after eleven months' absence, Vis
caino reached Mazlatan, having lost nearly half of his crew. He wrote the King
a glowing account of the Bay of Monterey and the surrounding country, which
he pictured as almost a terrestrial paradise. His object was to induce the King
to establish a settlement on Monterey Bay. In this he was doomed to disap
pointment ; delay followed delay until hope vanished. Finally, in 1606, orders
came from Philip III to the Viceroy to fit out immediately an expedition for the
occupation and settlement of Monterey, of which Viscaino was to be the com
mander. In the midst of his preparations for carrying out the dearest object
of his life, Viscaino died and the expedition was abandoned. Had it not been
for the untimely death of this explorer, a colonv would have been planted upon
the Pacific coast of California, a year before the first settlement was made on
the Atlantic coast of North America.
Two hundred and twenty-seven years had passed since the ships of Cabrillo
had first cut the waters that lap the shores of Alta California and yet through
all these years the interior of the vast country whose seacoast he had visited
remained unknown. For more than two centuries the Manila galleons had
sailed down the coast on their return voyage from the islands; yet after the
death of Viscaino no other attempt had been made to find a refuge on the Cali
fornia coast for the storm tossed and scurvy afflicted mariners of the Philippine
trade.
CHAPTER II.
COLONIZATION.
THE Jesuits began their work among the degraded inhabitants of Lower
California in 1697. Under their devoted leaders, Salvatierra, Kino,
Ugarte, Piccolo, and their successors, they had founded sixteen missions
upon the peninsula. Father Kino, besides his missionary labors, had made, be
tween 1697 and 1702, explorations around the head of the Gulf of California and
up the Colorado to the mouth of the Gila, which had clearly demonstrated that
the peninsula was a part of the mainland instead of an island as at first believed.
Father Kino formed the design of establishing a chain of missions around the
head of the gulf and down the inner coast to Cape San Lucas; but did not live
to complete his ambitious project. The Jesuit missions of Raja California never
grew rich in flocks and herds. The country was barren and the few fertile val
leys around the missions gave the padres and neophytes, at best, but a frugal
return for their labors.
For years there had been growing up in Spain a strong hostility to the
Jesuits which finally resulted in the issuance of a decree by Carlos III, in 1767,
banishing the order from that country and from its American possessions. With
out previous warning, the monks in Lower California were compelled to aban
don their missions and were hurried from the country. At the head of the Fran
ciscan order, to whom the abandoned missions were turned over, came Father
Junipero Serra, a man of indomitable will and energy. Don Jose Galvez, vis-
itaclor-general of New Spain, had been sent to the peninsula to regulate affairs —
both secular and ecclesiastical, which had been thrown into disorder by the sud
den expulsion of the Jesuits. He also received orders to advance the scheme for
the occupation of San Diego and Monterey harbors and the colonization of
"Nueva California." Galvez, as soon as he had somewhat systematized matters
on the peninsula, set vigorously to work to further the project of occupying the
northern territory. Father Serra entered heartily into his plans and church and
state worked together harmoniously.
Galvez decided to fit out four expeditions — two by sea and two by land.
These were to start at different dates, but were all to unite at San Diego Bay and
after occupying that territory, pass on to the harbor of Monterey. On Jan. 9,
1769, the San Carlos sailed from La Paz with sixty-five persons on board, twenty-
five of whom were soldiers under Lieutenant Pages. She carried supplies for
eight months. On the I5th of February, the San Antonio sailed from Cape S.
Lucas, with two friars and a few mechanics on board. The first land expedition
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 9
/
started from Yelicata, the most northern settlement in Lower California, March
24th. It was commanded by Rivera y Moncada and consisted of twenty-five sol
diers, forty-two natives, with Padres Crespi and Canizar^s. The last expedi
tion, which was under the immediate command of Caspar ue Portala, Governor
of the Californias, left Velicata May I5th. It consisted of ten soldiers, with a
band of Lower Californians, and was accompanied by Father Serra.
The San Antonio, although the last to sail, was the first to arrive at its des
tination, casting anchor in San Diego Bay, April 11, 1769. The San Carlos,
after a most disastrous voyage, drifted into the bay on April 29th. The crew
were prostrated with scurvy and it was with difficulty that a boat was manned
to go ashore. The sick were landed, but when the scourge had run its course,
few were left. Moncada's land expedition, after an uneventful march, reached
San Diego May I4th. On the first day of July Portala's command arrived and
the four divisions, aggregating 126 persons who were expected to remain in the
country, were united. The ravages of scurvy had so depleted the crews of the
two vessels that only enough men remained to man one vessel. The San Antonio
was sent back to San Bias for supplies and another crew for the San Carlos. A
third vessel, the San Jose, had been fitted out by Galvez and loaded with supplies
for the missionaries ; but she was never heard from after the day of sailing.
On July 1 6th, Father Serra formally founded the first mission in Nueva
California, which was dedicated to San Diego de Alcala — St. James of Alcala —
a Franciscan friar who died in 1463 and was canonized in 1588. On July I4th
Governor Portala, with Padres Crespi and Gomez and a force made up of sol
diers and Indians of Lower California, numbering in all sixty-five persons, set
out from San Diego to go overland to Monterey Bay and there found the intended
mission and settlement. The route of the expedition was mainly along the coast,
with an occasional divergence inland. On August 2nd they camped on the future
site of Los Angeles. Along the coast of Santa Barbara channel they found pop
ulous Indian villages and were everywhere welcomed by the natives of the coun
try. The explorers passed by Monterey Bay without recognizing it from the
description of Viscaino, and traveled along the coast to the north. On Nov. 2nd
some of the hunters of the party climbed a hill and saw an "arm of the sea."
This was the body of water we now know as San Francisco Bay. Their pro
visions were exhausted and many were sick. In consequence it was decided to
turn back and the party reached San Diego again in January, 1770. Portala's
expedition had failed in its object to found a mission on the bay of Monterey,
but it had accomplished a far greater feat — it had discovered San Francisco Bay.
In April, 1770, Portala again set out for Monterey, with a force of twenty-
five soldiers and natives. At the same time Father Serra sailed on the San An
tonio for the bay. On June 3, 1770, the mission of San Carlos Borremeo de
Monterey was formally established on the beach, with solemn ceremonies, ac-
10 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
companied by the ringing of bells and the crack of musketry and roar of cannon.
Father Serra conducted the services and Governor Portala took possession of
the country in the name of the King of Spain, Carlos III. A presidio or fort of
palisades was erected and a few huts built. Portala, having formed the nucleus
of a settlement, turned over the command of the territory to Pages and sailed
to Lower California on the San Antonio. This was the end of his term as Gov
ernor.
PRESIDIOS AND PUEBLOS.
For the protection of the missions and to prevent foreigners from entering
California, military posts, called presidios, were established at San Diego, Monte
rey, Santa Barbara and San Francisco. These enclosures were in the form of
a square and were surrounded by adobe walls ten or twelve feet high. Within
were the officers' quarters, the barracks for the soldiers, a guard house, chapel,
granaries, and storehouses. A military force, usually consisting of one cor
pany, was stationed at each post under the command of a colonel or lieutenant.
The largest force was kept at Monterey, the capital of the territory. The Gov
ernor, or commandante-general who, under Spanish rule was always an army
officer, was commander-in-chief of the troops in the territory. The principal
service of the soldiers was to keep in check the neophytes, to protect the mis
sions from the incursions of the "gentiles," as the wild Indians were known, and
to capture neophytes who had escaped to their unconverted relatives.
The mission fathers were opposed to the colonization of the country by
white people. They well knew that the bringing of a superior race of people
into contact with the lower would result in the demoralization of the inferior race.
As rapidly as they could found missions, they arrogated to themselves all tlv
choice lands within the vicinity of each establishment. A settler could not ob
tain a grant of land from the public domain if the padres of the nearest mission
opposed the action. The difficulty of obtaining supplies from Mexico for the
soldiers of the presidios, necessitated the founding of agricultural colonies. Pre
vious to 1776 the Governor of "Las Californias" as the country from Cape San
Lucas to the most northern point of the Spanish possessions was known, re
sided at Loreto, in Lower California. In that year the territory was divided
into two districts and a governor appointed for each. Felipe de Neve was made
Governor of Nueva California, of which Monterey was designated as the capital,
and Rivera y Moncada was appointed Governor of Lower California to reside
at Loreto.
Hitherto all expeditions to Nueva California had come either by the coast
route, up the peninsula, or by sea. In 1774 Captain Juan Bautista de Anza,
commander of the Tubac presidio of Sonora, was ordered to explore a route by
way of the Gila and Colorado rivers overland to Monterey. With a party of
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 11
thirty-four men, he made the Jornada, crossing the desert, entering the San Ber
nardino Valley through the San Gorgonio Pass and reaching San Gabriel. On
his return to Sonora, he recruited a second expedition composed of soldiers, set
tlers and their families — in all over three hundred persons, who were designed
to found a mission and a presidio on San Francisco Bay. After a long and toil
some journey this party reached California in 1776. On the I7th of Septembc
1776, the presidio of San Francisco was formally established and on October gth
the mission, christened for the founder of the Franciscan order, was founded.
Governor de Neve, on his journey overland in 1777 from Loreto to Monte
rey, was instructed to examine the country from San Diego northward and se
lect locations for agricultural settlements. He chose two colony sites, one on
the Ric de Porciuncula, where Portala's expedition had camped in 1769 and to
which he had given the name of "Nuestra Senora de Los Angeles," and the
other on the Rio de Guadalupe in the northern section of the territory. Here,
Nov. 29, 1777, Governor de Xeve founded the Pueblo de San Jose. The col
onists were nine soldiers from the presidios of Monterey and San Francisco and
five settlers of Anza's expedition. These, with their families, made a total of
sixty-six. The site of the pueblo was about a mile north of the present city of
San Jose. Each settler was given a tract of irrigable land, a soldier's rations
and ten dollars per month. Each head of a family received a yoke of oxen, two
horses, two cows, a mule, two sheep and two goats, a few farming implements
and seed for the first sowing. The colonists were to reimburse the royal treas
ury for all the articles furnished them except their rations and monthly pay,
the payments to be made in installments from the products of their industry.
The Spanish government had an elaborate code of laws governing the es
tablishment and management of pueblos. These were applied with small mod
ification to all new pueblos, whatever their location and conditions. Each pueblo
must contain four square leagues of land, which was divided into planting fields,
allotted to the colonists : lands retained by the municipality for renting ; a com
mon pasture for the use of all, and a portion of land reserved for the state, used
for raising revenues. Wood and water were communal property. The pueblo
was governed by a semi-civil, semi-military official known as the comisionaclo.
There was also an alcalde, who was a mayor and petty judge. A guard of sol
diers were kept at the guard house, partly for protection against the Indians and
partly to preserve the peace in the pueblo.
In 1779 Rivera y Moncada, the Governor of Lower California, was instructed
to recruit in Sonora and Sinaloa settlers for the founding of a pueblo on the
Rio Porciuncula and soldiers for the founding of a presidio and mission on the
Santa Barbara channel. The settlers were to receive each $106.50 for two years
and $60 for the next three years, the payment to be in clothing and other neces
sary articles at cost price ; also live stock, farming implements and seeds. These
12 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
liberal offers secured but few recruits and those of poor quality. After a year
Rivera had obtained but fourteen settlers. Two of these deserted before the
company left Sonora and one was left behind at Loreto when, in April, 1781,
the expedition began to march up the peninsula. The colonists under command
of Lieut. Zuniga arrived at San Gabriel, August i8th, where they remained until
Sept. 4th. The eleven settlers and their families — forty-four persons in all, es
corted by Gov. de Neve and a small guard of soldiers and accompanied by the
priests of San Gabriel Mission, on Sept. 4, 1781, proceeded to the site previously
selected for the pueblo. This was on the right bank of the Rio Porciuncula near
the spot where Portala's explorers had celebrated the feast of Nuesta Seiiora de
Los Angeles de Porciuncula, from which circumstances was derived the name of
the pueblo and the river. A plaza, seventy-five by one hundred varas was laid
off on the mesa above the river as the center of the settlement. A mass was
said by the priests of the mission, a procession was formed and marched around
the plaza, the soldiers bearing the imperial standard of Spain and the women
the image of "Our Lady of the Angels." The priests blessed the plaza and the
house lots. The services over, the Governor and his escort took their departure
and the colonists were left to work out their destiny. Another pueblo called
Branciforte was founded in 1797 near Santa Cruz, but never prospered. The
settlers were discharged soldiers, unused to labor and averse to acquiring indus
trious habits.
A few grants of land were made to private citizens, but substantially, during
the Spanish era, all the land outside of the pueblos used for grazing or for culti
vation was held by the missions. The commerce of California at this period was
limited to the ships of the missions which usually came twice a year from San
Bias with supplies for the missions and presidios and took away the few commer
cial products of the country, such as otter skins, hides and tallow of cattle. About
1800 the American smugglers began to come to the coast. The vessels engaged
in this trade were principally from Boston and were fast sailing craft. They
exchanged Yankee notions for otter skins. The authorities tried to suppress
this illicit traffic, but were not often successful, as the vessels were heavily armed
and when not able to escape the revenue officers, by speed or strategem, were not
averse to fighting their way out.
Of the long and bloody struggle for Mexican independence, beginning with
the insurrection led by the patriot priest, Hidalgo, in 1810, and continuing under
various leaders for eleven years, but little was known in California. The men
who filled the office of territorial governor during the years of the fratricidal
struggle — Arrilliga, Argiiella and Sola, were royalists and so were the mission
padres, nearly all of whom were Spanish born. The soldiers and the common
people knew but little about what was going on in the world beyond and cared less.
The one event that disturbed the placidity of life during the closing years
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 13
of the Spanish rule was the appearance on the coast of Bouchard, the privateer,
with two frigates heavily armed. Bouchard was a Frenchman cruising under
letters of Marque from the insurgent government of Buenos Ayres, against the
Spanish. He entered the harbor of Monterey, Nov. 21, 1818, probably to ob
tain supplies, but being coldly received, he fired upon the fort. The Californians
made a brave resistance, but were finally overpowered. Bouchard sacked and
burned the town. He next appeared at Ortega's Rancho, where he burned the
buildings. Here the Californians captured three prisoners, who were exchanged
next day when Bouchard anchored off Santa Barbara for one Californian whom
the insurgents had captured at Monterey. Bouchard next visited San Juan Cap-
istrano, where his "pirates" drank the padres' wine, then he took his departure
from California. Four of Bouchard's men were left and became permanent resi
dents — Joseph Chapman, an American, and Fisher, a negro, who were captured
at Monterey ; and John Ross, a Scotchman, and Jose Pascual, a negro, who de
serted at San Juan. Chapman was the first American resident of Southern Cali
fornia. He married Guadalupe Ortega, a daughter of the owner of the Refugio
Rancho which was plundered by the insurgents, and settled at the mission San
Gabriel. He built there the first flour mill erected in California.
The war of Mexican Independence caused hard times in California. The
soldiers received no pay and the mission supply ships came at long intervals.
Money was almost an unknown quantity. There were prodvcts to sell, but no
one to sell them to except an occasional smuggler, or a tallow ship from Peru.
CHAPTER III.
THE MISSION ESTABLISHMENTS.
IT WAS not the intention of the Spanish government that the mission
establishments should continue permanently as missions. According to
the law, at the end of ten years from its founding each mission was to
be converted into a municipal organization, known as a pueblo, or town ; and
the property of the mission, both personal and real, was to be sub-divided
among the neophytes of the establishment. But the training which the natives
received did not fit them for self-government. They were forced to labor and
were instructed in many branches of industry, as well as in the religious
ceremonials ; but they received no intellectual training and they made little
progress toward self-control. The padres persistently urged that the neophytes
were incompetent to use and manage property, and during the time that Cali
fornia was subject to Spain no attempt was made to carry out the law and
secularize the missions.
In form, the different missions resembled one another. Col. J. J. Warner,
thus describes the general form: "A large pile of buildings in the form of
a quadrangle, composed partly of burnt brick, but chiefly of sun-dried ones,
was erected around a spacious court. A large and capacious church, usually
occupying one corner of the quadrangle, was a conspicuous part of the pile.
In these buildings, which were covered with red tile, was the habitation of
the friars, rooms for guests and for the major-domos and their families, hospital
wards, storehouses and granaries."
A guard of four or five soldiers was kept at each mission to control the
neophytes. Each establishment held possession of large tracts of land, con
tiguous to its buildings. These were divided into ranches, over which roamed
large herds and flocks under the charge of Indian vaqueros. The neophytes
for the most part were docile and easily managed, and some of the brighter
ones were taught mechanical trades and became fairly good blacksmiths,
weavers, tanners, shoemakers, saddlers, brick-makers, etc. They certainly
accomplished a large amount of labor under the padres and proved themselves
capable, with proper supervision, of supporting themselves — and producing a
large surplus for the benefit of the church.
The history and present condition of each mission is here presented.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 15
JUNIPERO SERRA.
" The first Apostle of California," Father Junipero Serra, was a humble
friar of the Franciscan order when, in 1767, he was appointed presidente
general of the missions of the Californias, in charge of the missions of Lower
California, and with orders to establish new missions in Upper California.
Filled with zeal for the salvation of souls, he prepared with great rejoicing and
^^^^_^^_^_^^^^^__ with excellent good sense, as well, to enter new
territory. For sixteen years he labored inces
santly, travelling up and down the coast and
visiting the City of Mexico, although he was
afflicted with an incurable disease and so lame
that he could not move without suffering. He
founded nine missions before his death, at which
five thousand natives had been baptized.
Less than a year before he died, he made his
last journey from San Diego to Monterey, visiting
Jl'XIPERO SERRA.
each of the missions, journeying on foot, sleeping
on the ground, although he was so ill that no one believed he would live to
complete the trip. He was most ascetic in his habits, never eating meat ; sleeping
upon rough boards, and spending most of the night in prayer ; Palou relates that
four days before his death an old Indian woman came to visit the holy father
and with his own hand he gave her a blanket. After his death they found that
it was half of his own blanket that he had given.
Father Serra was born on the Island of Majorca in 1713: he died at San
Carlos Mission, August 29, 1784. and was buried in the church to which he
had given so much of his love and thought.
To Junipero Serra and his noble band of assistants California owes the
existence of her mission ruins ; but she also owes to these simple, hard-working
friars, the beginnings of her industries, the nomenclature of her geography,
the distinctiveness of her architecture and the civilization of her savages.
SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA.
The Mission San Diego cle Alcala (Saint James of Alcala), was founded
July 16, 1769, by Father Junipero Serra, on an eminence overlooking the Bay
of San Diego. A temporary altar was erected beneath the branches of a tree
from which bells were swung and loudly rung. Water was blessed, the cross
raised, high mass was sung by Father Junipero. The services were attended
by the officers and soldiers from the ships and the land forces ; the royal standard
was unfurled and the country was formally occupied in the name of Carlos III.
16
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
Several huts were erected, one of which was used as a chapel. The Indians at
no time very friendly, became hostile, and on August 15, 1769, made an attack
upon the mission, but were repulsed, and a stockade was immediately erected
around the camp.
In 1771 Fathers Luis Jayme and Francisco Dumetz came from Mexico and
were placed in charge of the mission. In 1774 the location was changed to a
point about seven miles up the Valley of the San Diego river. A wooden
church was constructed, 18x57 feet in size, roofed with tules, three small adobe
buildings used for a store, a blacksmith shop and a dwelling. In 1775 new
buildings were erected and a well dug. A ferocious attack was made upon
the settlement by the Indians on the night of November 4th, 1775, all the
buildings being destroyed and Father Jayme murdered. His body was found
naked with twenty arrow wounds in the breast. Jose Manuel Arroyo, the black
smith, and the carpenter Ursulino were also killed. All three were buried in
the chapel at the Presidio. Fathers de la Pena and Fuster resumed the mission
work, holding services at the
Presidio. Anew lrf ,, , \MM£1 church, strength-
pine timbers and
proved was com-
A report on the
Diego Mission
Lasuen, in 1783,
church, 9OXI7X
75x161/2 feet; a
house for sick
for sick men ;
A new
ened with heavy
otherwise im-
pleted in 1 780.
condition of San
given by Father
is as follows : "A
17; a granary,
store-house; a
SAX DIEGO DE ALCAI.A.
women ; a house
sheds for wood and oxen ; two horses for the fathers ; a larder ; a guests' room
and a kitchen." All were of adobe and with the soldiers' barracks these
buildings formed three sides of a quadrangle of 165 feet. The fourth side
consisted of an adobe wall fifteen feet high. There was a vat for use in
tanning hides, two adobe corrals for sheep and one for cows. These were
outside the regular mission enclosure. The cabins of the neophytes were of
wood and grass. At this time there were seven hundred and forty neophytes,
under missionary care.
In 1793, a substantial granary of adobe, 96x24 feet, was built, and in 1795,
the vineyard was surrounded with an adobe wall five hundred yards in length.
This year saw also the commencement of an extensive system of irrigating
ditches, remains of which can still be seen and constitute a valuable object lesson
in ditch construction. About three miles of San Diego river was dammed back
with a solid stone clam thirteen feet in thickness and coated with cement that
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 17
became as solid as rock and remains so to this day. In the center of this
dam was a gateway from which a stream of water, 12x24 inches, was carried
through an aqueduct of tile and resting on a base of cobblestones and cement.
This aqueduct for the major portion of the way was laid along the sides of a
precipitous gorge and frequently crossed gulches from 15 to 20 feet wide, and
as many feet deep.
On May 25th, 1803, an earthquake occurred which damaged the church.
In 1804, a new church was begun. It was completed and dedicated November
I2th, 1813. It is the ruins of this building that we see today. The remains
of Fathers Jayme, Figuer and Mariner were transferred from their old resting
place and buried in one grave, though in separate coffins, between the altars of
the church, Father Jayme resting nearest the altar of the Blessed Virgin.
From the time of the establishment of San Diego in 1769 to 1834, the
date of its secularization, there were 6638 persons baptized, 1879 marriages
performed, and 4428 burials. In 1831, the mission owned 8822 head of cattle,
1192 horses and 16,661 head of sheep. There were 1506 Indians on the roll
of the mission January 6th, 1846, when an inventory of the mission property
was taken. In June of the same year the mission lands were sold to Santiago
Argiiello for past services to the United States government. His title was not,
however, sustained and in accordance with a decision of the United States
Land Commissioners, in 1856, based on the old Spanish law, that divided
church property into two classes, sacred and ecclesiastical, and whereby sacred
property could not be sold, San Diego Mission was returned to the church.
" Sacred property" is defined as that which has been formally consecrated to
God, such as churches, church buildings, vessels and vestments. The priests'
houses and their gardens were thus included. According to this decision all
church property that had been sold by Governor Pio Pico reverted to the church,
while the ecclesiastic or mission lands were government property.
San Diego Mission has been in part restored by the Auxiliary to the Land
marks Club. The ruins of the old dam, the irrigating system and garden walls
are to be seen. Many of the original trees of the olive orchard are still standing
and productive. The old olive press is also there. Down at the old town of
San Diego may be seen the ruins of the first Presidio buildings, relics of the
century past. Two old mission bells hung suspended from a beam outside of
one of the origiml buildings.
SAN CARLOS BORREMEO DE MONTEREY.
Mission San Carlos Borremeo de Monterey was founded June 3rd, 1770,
on the inner shore of Monterey Bay, where the city of Monterey now stands,
2
18 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
the exact location being marked with the statue of Junipero Serra, erected by
the late Mrs. Jane Lathrop Stanford. Near the bay shore stands a cross,
indicating the landing place of Fathers Serra and Crespi and near by is the
old oak tree upon a branch of which they hung the bell, and under which the
christening services were held. The Indians of that locality were more
timorous than those of the South, and progress in gaining their confidence was
somewhat slow, but within about three years, one hundred and seventy-five
had been gathered into the church. The situation and surroundings were not
satisfactory, however, and a few
months later the mission was removed
about five miles to the mouth of El
Carmel river, on the beautiful Bay
of Carmel, and while the mission was
thereafter known as San Carlos el
Carmello, it officially retained its
original title.
At this new mission Fathers Serra
and Crespi began the study of the
SAN CARLOS BORREMEO DE MONTEREY. j^j^ ]anguage Rey p^ Juan
Crespi was a native of Spain, being sixty-one years of age at the time of his
decease, January ist, 1783. He was buried near the main altar. It was here
that Serra two years later passed away after a lingering illness, and his remains
were laid beside those of Father Crespi.
It was not until July 7th, 1793, that the first stone of the new church was
laid. It was built of soft, straw-colored stone, quarried near by, laid in lime
made from sea-shells, gathered along the sea-beach, the roof being of red tiles.
The church was dedicated in 1797, and the remains of this building, restored
through the efforts of the Rev. Father Cassanova, pastor of Monterey, are to
be seen today. On July 3rd, 1882, Father Cassanova opened the tombs.
This was evidently done to reassure the world of the recorded fact that the
sacred remains of those true disciples of Christ and pioneers of California,
founders of the Missions, were there. At the services, the following entries
from the parish records were read :
" Rev. Fr. Juan Crespi; born in Spain; died Jany. ist, A. D. 1782, 61 years
old, buried near the main altar, gospel side." "Rev. Fr. Junipero Serra, D. D.,
President of all the Missions; born in Majorca, Spain; died on the 28th of
August, A. D. 1784, at the age of 71 years, buried in the Sanctuary, fronting
the altar of Our Lady of Seven Dolores, on the gospel side." " Rev. Fr. Julian
Lopez, born in Spain ; died here on the 1 5th of July, A. D. 1 797, aged 35 years ;
buried in the Sanctuary, on the gospel side, in the tomb near the wall on the
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
19
left." "Rev. Fr. Francisco Lasuen, Vic. for Second President of the Missions,
born in Spain, died here, and is buried in the Sanctuary, on the gospel side, in
a stone tomb, near the main altar, June 28th, 1803."
The heavy stone slabs having been removed before the ceremony began,
the coffin in each tomb was left visible. The lids of each was then raised
and the people then viewed the remains of which only the clothing and the
skeletons were seen. The tombs were then covered as before with the stone
slabs. The coffins were of unplaned redwood boards, and all but that of Father
Lasuen in a good state of preservation.
When the restoration of the old mission church was commenced in 1882,
the tile roof had fallen in, the walls were crumbled, and grass had grown upon
the tiled floor. The resting place of the founder of the California missions
was completely obliterated.
Through the untiring efforts of Father Cassanova, and his band of
sympathizers, the tomb of Serra and his beloved co-worker, Father Crespi, are
in fairly good repair. Services are held here once a month by the resident
priest of Monterey, and upon each occasion the old mission bell is rung.
SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA.
The Mission San Antonio de Padua (Saint Anthony of Padua), now a
mass of ruins, was founded by Father Junipero Serra, July- 14, 1771, under
most auspicious circumstances. The ringing of bells attracted an Indian, and
instead of hiding in fear, he remained to witness the ceremony of dedication,
and later brought his companions in large numbers to meet the missionaries.
This mission is located in a beauti
fully oak-studded glen, in the Santa
Lucia Mountains, and near the Sa
linas River, in Monterey County.
Father Serra named the valley Los
Robles. The present ruins are those
of the second church, which was
built in the year 1809 or 1810, and
was extended by adobe structures
several times. The Indians assisted
Fathers Buenaventura, Sitjar and
Miguel Pieras in erecting the first temporary structure, which was unusual.
San Antonio became famous for its piety, prosperity and its splendid
horses. In 1805 it had a population of 1261 neophytes. An inventory of
property made in 1835, when the mission was secularized, showed the valuation
of buildings and vineyards to be $90,000.00, but in 1845 '* was invoiced at only
SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA.
20 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
$8,000.00, and the membership had declined to ten men and five women. Mrs.
Forbes writes in 1904 that, "At present the roof of the mission building has
fallen in and the last room is ready to collapse. The relics have all beer,
stolen or removed to other places, with the exception of one iron kettle used
by the Fathers in cooking soup for the Indians. Only one family of the
original Indians of the Valley remain, and they live many miles from the
mission. The tree upon which Father Serra hung the bell when the first chapel
was founded still stands beside the road, leading up to the mission. Near by
the mission flows Mission creek, a branch of the San Antonio river. In mission
days the Padres constructed a dam across the river, and its water was diverted
to irrigate the mission lands.- At one time San Antonio rivalled San Juan
Capistrano, San Luis Rev and Santa Barbara in prosperity and importance.
The buildings were extensive. Long cloisters, arches and broken walls and
tiled roofs now remain to tell the story of architectural grandeur."
SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL.
The Mission San Gabriel Archangel was founded September 8th, 1771,
by Fathers Angel Somera and Pedro Benito Cambon. The first mission site
was located about five miles south of the present mission on the bank of the
San Gabriel (then San Miguel) river. The first chapel was of logs cut to
length, the desired height of the building, then split in two and set upright
in a trench or ditch. The roof was made of tules and adobe mud. The
dwellings of the priests and attendants were enclosed with a stockade of similar
construction which, however, was soon replaced with an adobe wall. Xot a
vestige of this first mission of San Gabriel remains, and it is even quite
uncertain as to its exact location.
By reason of danger from floods, from the river's overflow, low-land frosts
and poor drainage, the mission was moved to its present site, then as now, a
most charming location, in the midst of a belt of live oak, on warm and
responsive soil. The date of removal to the new site is unknown, but it must
have been about 1775, since Junipero Serra in his second annual report of
1774 indicates his intention to move San Gabriel Mission a short distance and
states that for that reason no permanent improvements had been made on
the old site.
The stone church which is now the admiration of visitors was half finished
in 1794, and had not been completed in 1800. It was first built with an arched
roof, in which cracks soon appeared. When these were repaired an earthquake
reopened them. The arched roof was then removed and a new roof of timbers
and tiles substituted in 1804. The valley was fertile and Indians were
numerous but were seemingly slow to embrace the religion of the Friars, since
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
21
only seventy-three baptisms were recorded the first two years. Up to the year
1800, there were, however, 1078 neophytes attached to the mission. There
had been 1953 baptisms, 869 burials and 396 marriages performed. Once
established on the new mission site affairs seemed to take on new life and
enterprise and set the pace for those missions already established and those to be.
In 1806 Jose Marie Zalvidea, a man of great energy and executive ability,
\vas transferred from San Fernando to San Gabriel. According to Hugo Reid:
" He it was, who planted the large vineyards, intersected with fine walks,
shaded fruit trees of every description, and rendered still more lovely by shrubs
interspersed between ; who laid out the orange garden, fruit and olive orchards ;
built the mill and dam; made fences of tunas (cactus) round the fields; made
hedges of rose bushes ; planted trees in the mission square, with a flower garden
and hour-dial in the center ; brought water from long distances, etc. He also
remodeled the existent system of government. Every article must henceforth
be in place, and every man at his station. Everything under him was
organized and = that organization
kept up with a lash ! The people
were now di- vided into class-
culturists, brick and tile makers,
musicians, sing- ^— ' ers. tallow melt-
ers, vignerons, SAX GABRIEI, AROANGEU carters, cart-
makers, shepherds, poultry-keepers, pigeon-tenders, weavers, spinners, saddle-
makers, store and key-keepers, deer hunters, deer and sheep-skin dressers,
masons, plasterers, people of all work — everything but coopers, these were
foreign ; all the rest were native Indians.
" Large soap works were erected, tanning yards established, tallow works,
bakery, cooper, blacksmith, carpenter and other shops. Large spinning rooms,
where might be seen fifty or sixty women turning their spindles merrily, and
looms for weaving wool, flax and cotton. Then large store rooms were allotted to
the various articles, which were kept separate. For instance, wheat, barley, peas,
beans, lentels, chick, peas, butter and cheese, soap, candles, wool, leather, flour,
lime, salt, horse-hair, wine and spirits, fruit stores, etc., etc. Sugar-cane, flax and
hemp jvere added to the other articles cultivated, but cotton wool was imported.
" At an early period in the history of San Gabriel, a water-power mill, for
grinding wheat, was constructed and put in operation in front of and near the
22 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
mission building. At a later period, a new grist mill was built by the mission,
and placed about two miles west of the mission proper. This was also operated
by water-power. The building in which was placed the mill is still standing
and is known as El Molino, the Spanish words for " The Mill." It is now
the property of H. E. Huntington. A water-power saw-mill was also built by
this mission, and was located near the last-mentioned grist-mill. These were
the only mills made or used in California, either for grinding or sawing, in
which water was the motive power, or in which a wheel was used, for more
than half a century after the founding of the first mission. In these two grist
mills the revolving mill stone was upon the upper end of the vertical shaft, and
the water-wheel upon the lower end, so that the revolution of the stone was no
more frequent than that of the water-wheel. They did no grading or separating
of the flour in these mills. This process, if done at all, was done with hand sieves."
" The principal ranches belonging at that time to San Gabriel were San
Pasqual, Santa Anita, Azusa, San Francisquito, Cucamonga, San Antonio, San
Gorgonio, Yucaipa, Jurupa, Guapa, Rincon, Chino, San Jose, Ybarras, Puente,
Mission Vieja, Serranos, Rosa Castillo, Coyotes, Jaboneria, Las Bolsas, Alamitos
and Serritos.
" The principal head (Major-domo) commanded and superintended over
all. Claudio Lopez was the famed one during Padre Zalvidea's administration,
and although only executing the priest's plans, in the minds of the people he
is the real hero Ask any one who made this, or who did that, and the answer on
all sides is the same: 'El difunto Claudio!' Great credit is due him for carrying
out without flogging the numerous works intrusted to him. There were a great
many other major-domos under him for all kinds of work, from tending of horses
down to those of superintending crops, and in charge of vineyards and gardens.
" Indian alcaldes were appointed annually by the padre, and chosen from
among the very laziest in the community, he being of the opinion that they took
more pleasure in making the others work than would industrious ones, and from
my own observation this is correct. They carried a wand to denote their
authority, and an immense scourge of rawhide about ten feet in length, plaited
to the size of an ordinary man's wrist. They did a great deal of chastisement.
" The unmarried women and girls were kept as nuns, under the supervision
of an abbess, who slept with them in a large room. Their occupations : some
times they served, at others they cleaned weeds from out of the gardens with
hoes, worked at the ditches or gathered in the crops. The best looking youths
were kept as pages to attend at the tables and those of most musical talent were
reserved for church service.
"The number of hogs was great. They were principally used for making
soap. (The Indians, with a few exceptions, refused to eat pork.) Near the
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 23
mission at San Francisquito (San Fernando Mission) were kept the turkeys of
which they had large numbers. The dove-cote was alongside of the soap works,
in an upper story, affording plenty of dung to cure leather and skins with.
" The padre had an idea that finery led Indians to run away, for which
reason he never gave either men or women any other clothing (including skirts
and petticoats) than coarse frieze (xerga) made by themselves, which kept
the poor wretches all the time diseased with the itch. If any handkerchiefs or
cotton goods were discovered among them the same were immediately committed
to the flames. He was an inveterate enemy to drunkenness, and did all in his
power to prevent it, but to no purpose. He never flogged, however, while the
influence of liquor lasted, but put them into stocks, under the care of a guard
until sober. Finding the lash, alone, was of no avail, he added warm water
and salt to the dose, which was given as a drink until it ran out of the mouth
again. It was no use. The disease was as incurable as consumption.
'' Having found out the game practiced in regard to destroying the children
borne by Indian women to white men, he put down all miscarriages to the same
cause. Therefore, when a woman had the misfortune to bring forth a still-born
child, she was punished. The penalty inflicted was shaving the head, flogging
for fifteen subsequent days, iron on the feet for three months, and having to
appear every Sunday in church on the steps leading up to the altar, with a
hideous painted wooden child in her arms. He had no predilections for wizards,
and generally (as some one or other was always reporting evil of them) kept
them chained together in couples and well flogged. There were, at that period,
no small number of old men rejoicing in the fame of witchcraft, so he made
sawyers of them all, keeping them like hounds in couples and so they worked,
two above and two below in the sawpit. On a breach occurring between man
and wife, they were fastened together by the leg until they agreed to live in
harmony. He was not only severe, but he was in his chastisements most cruel.
So as not to make a revolting picture, I shall bury acts of barbarity, known to
me through good authority, by merely saying that he must assuredly have
considered whipping as meat and drink to them, for they had it morning, noon
and night. Although so severe to the Indians, he was kind, in the extreme,
to travelers and others. There being so much beef, mutton, pork and poultry,
with fruits, vegetables and wine, a splendid public table was spread daily, at
which he presided."
J. J. Warner, in 1889, furnished the writer the following, as setting forth
the usual dinner served daily at San Gabriel Mission during the years of its
prosperity: First course: Caldo (plain broth in which meat and vegetables had
been boiled). Second course: La Olla (meat boiled with vegetables and served
separately). Third course: El Bondigas (forced meat balls in gravy). Fourth
course: Guisados (stews, generally two). Fifth course: Azado (roasts— beef.
24 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
mutton, game, fowls). Sixth course: Fruit and sweetmeat. Seventh course:
Tea, coffee, cigarritos. Pork was also eaten sparingly at every meal. Wine
was served ad libitum. On Friday, fish followed the caldo, and the meats were
dispensed with. Horses to ride were ever at their service, and a good bed to
sleep on at night. Whenever ready to start, either up or down the coast, horses
and a servant were ever at their command to go as far as the next mission."
Having brought the establishment and everything connected with it to the
climax of perfection, Zalviclea had still calculated on doing more. He purchased
large quantities of iron, with the intention of railing in all vineyards and
gardens. But, alas! even Catholic societies are not proof against the "capital
sins " they so strongly condemn. Envy and jealousy stepped in and prevailed.
He was ordered by his superior to the mission of San Juan Capistrano. The
loss of his favorite hobby capsized his reason, and after lingering for many
years in a disturbed religious state of mind he at length expired, regretted by
all who knew his worth and gigantic intellect.
During his pastorate, Zalvidea also mastered the Indian language, and
reduced it to grammatical rules, being the first padre in this section having
either the ability or energy necessary for such a task. He translated the church
service, and preached each Sabbath in the native tongue. His translation of
the Lord's Prayer, commencing " Ayoinac," "Our Father," is said by Mr. Reid
to be a "a grand specimen of his eloquence and ability." He thus gave the
natives an insight into the Catholic faith, but did not alter their own one iota.
Those who came after him were too indolent to keep up the reforms he had
inaugurated. For a time sermons were translated sentence by sentence, to the
congregation ; but this was soon discontinued, probably to the great relief of
the unfortunate listeners.
Zalvidea was succeeded by Padre Jose Bernardo Sanchez, his former
colleague and assistant, who is described as having been " of a cheeerful disposi
tion, and a frank and generous nature." He was also a great sportsman and
capital shot. " In ecclesiastical affairs, solemn ; in trade, formal ; in government
of the mission, active, lively, and strict ; in social intercourse, friendly, full of
anecdote, and fond of jokes ; even to those of a practical nature."
"The regulations enforced by his predecessor were still observed under
Sanchez, but while the lash was still ready, other modes of punishment were
adopted for minor offenses. Nor was such leniency barren of good results, for
many Indians who had formerly proven insubordinate from mere vindictiveness
of spirit, now refrained because of the love and good will which all bore toward
their spiritual and temporal ruler.
" Supplies for the mission were purchased in large quantities, frequently
amounting to $30,000 at one time. These purchases consisted of domestics
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 25
(brown, bleached and printed), flannels, cloths, ribbons, silks, hosiery, sugar,
panoche, rice, etc., etc. These articles were distributed in two stores, from
whence they were dealt out to the natives, or sold to the public. The people
were now better dressed than formerly. The coarse frieze (xerga) of the
women was used only as sweat-cloths for horses ; and all the native ladies
appeared at church in full-blown glory of fancy petticoats, clean white chemises,
variegated kerchiefs on their head, and rebosos around their shoulders. The
men had pants, jackets, hats, and fancy silk sashes. Even the children plumed
themselves in gay colors, and sported shirts and kerchiefs.
Married people were provided with sheets for their beds, and even curtains.
The major-domo visited each house weekly to see that all was kept clean, and
the priest made a similar round in person once a month. Rations, with wine and
spirits (and occasionally a few dollars in money) were distributed once a week;
but in addition to this, daily food was provided ready cooked, for the laborers.
We quote further from Mr. Reid's letters :
" The mission bell, on being rung, aroused the alcaldes from their slumbers,
and these with loud voices soon set all the world agog. Mass was now heard,
and again the bell rang to work. At eleven its notes proclaimed dinner, when
in all flocked, basket in hand, to receive posale and a piece of beef. (Posale
consisted of beans boiled with corn or wheat.) At twelve o'clock they were
again warned to their labors, which concluded a little before sundown, to afford
them time to receive supper, which consisted of ' atolc ' or mush. If a gang
were at a distance, a copper kettle and attendant accompanied them and provided
food on the spot.
" After twelve o'clock on Saturdays soap was distributed, and all the world
went a washing of clothes and persons, to make a decent appearance at church
on Sunday. Saturday night was devoted to playing peon, and, with few excep
tions, none slept ; for whites and Indians, men, women and children, were all
generally present.
" After service on Sunday, foot-ball and races took place, and in the after
noon a game called ' Shindy ' by the Scotch, and ' Bandy ' by the English, was
played, with men and \vomen on opposite sides. People flocked in from all
parts to see the sport and heavy bets were made. The priest took great interest
in the game and, as the women seldom had less than half a dozen quarrels among
them, in which hair flew by the handfuls, he was the more pleased. The game
being concluded, all went to prayers and so ended the Sabbath."
The general statistics of the Mission of San Gabriel for the whole period
of its existence of sixty-three years (from 1771 to 1834) are thus given by
Bancroft : Total number of baptisms. 7,854, of which 4,355 were Indian adults,
2,459 Indian children, and i adult and 1,039 children of " gente cle razon,"
26 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
which may mean the Spaniards and their mixed-blooded descendants. Total
marriages, 1,955; °f which 241 were " gente de razon." Total deaths, 5,656;
of which 2,896 were Indian adults, 2,363 Indian children, 211 adults and 186
children " de razon." Annual average, 88 ; annual average death rate, 7.61 per
cent, of population. Largest population, 1,701, in 1817. There was a slight
excess of males down to 1803, and a greater excess later. The proportion of
children varied from one-eighth per cent, at first to one-tenth per cent, at the
last. Largest number of cattle, 26,300, in 1828; horses, 2,400, in 1827; mules,
205, in 1814; asses, 6 in 1794; sheep, 15,000, in 1829; goats, 1,380 in 1/85;
swine, 300, in 1802, 1803 and 1822; all kinds, 40,360 animals, in 1830. Total
product of wheat, 225,942 bushels; yield, 16 fold. Barley (for only eleven
years), 1,250 bushels; yield, 10 fold. Maize, 154,820 bushels; yield, 145 fold.
Beans, 14,467 bushels ; yield, 28 fold. In the year 1834, at the time of seculariza
tion, there were 163,579 vines in four vineyards, and 2,333 fruit trees.
All statistics stop with the attempted secularization of the mission in 1834.
In 1832, Governor Echandia sent an envoy to San Gabriel Mission, demand
ing a loan, which was refused. The store house was broken open and the money
in gold coin forcibly taken and never returned. Secularization soon followed,
and the mission, with upwards of 42,000 head of live stock and gold in sacks
passed into the control of the Mexican government, and like all the other
missions suffered temporal and spiritual destruction.
In June, 1846, the mission estate was sold by Governor Pico to Reid and
Workman. The title was not, however, confirmed, and the property returned
to the church. In 1847 Father Bias Ordaz took charge of the mission and
ministered to the few Indians then remaining, until his death, 1850. It is since
secularization, a parish church only, and is now presided over by a parish priest,
who holds regular services.
SAN LUIS OBISPO DE TOLOSO.
On the first of September, 1772, Fathers Junipero Serra and Cavalier
founded San Luis Obispo, the fifth mission in California, in honor of St. Louis,
Bishop of Toulouse. The history of this mission is a remarkable evidence of
the energy and religious zeal of these men of God. Father Serra departed the
second day, leaving Father Cavalier, two Lower California Indians, and five
soldiers, to commence the work of establishing a mission. Their supplies con
sisted of fifty pounds of flour, three pecks of wheat and a barrel of brown
sugar — the sugar to be used in bartering with the native Indians for further
supplies. The Indians proved friendly, supplied the missionary with venison,
seeds and wild berries, and in many ways helped the Padres. A little chapel
and dwelling were soon erected. But Father Cavalier remained alone at his post
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
27
for one year. Then four immigrant families and a few unmarried Christians
came to San Luis Obispo to make it their home. In November, 1776, the
buildings, except the chapel and granary, were destroyed by fire, the Indians
having thrown burning arrows upon the tule roofs. Twice again in ten years the
buildings were on fire from the same cause. For this reason tiles were adopted
for roofing, at all the missions, instead of the dangerous but economical tules.
The adobe church was finished in
1793 ; other spacious buildings such as
barracks, a missionary's house, work
house, guardhouse, granary, etc., were
added the following year. Huts for
the natives were comfortable and well
built. A trained blacksmith, a carpen
ter and a millwright were sent to San
Luis Obispo to instruct the Indians.
Father Luis Martinez labored long
and earnestly for the welfare of this
mission. He learned the Indian language and gave assistance, both to the troops
and to other missions. Squirrels and locusts were extremely troublesome, and
one crop was entirely eaten up by mice. In the inventory taken 1836, an item
is made of the library and musical instruments, $519, and the total valuation
was given at $70,779. On September loth, 1842, Governor Alvarado ordered
the lands divided among the neophytes ; and two years later the mission was
formed into a pueblo. It was sold the following year (1845) to Scott, Wilson &
MrKierey for $510. However, Governor Mason ordered the property returned
to the Catholic church.
The mission church is located near the business center of San Luis Obispo,
county of the same name, and it is in a good state of repair, being used, as it
is, as the parish church.
SA\ I.riS or.ISPO DB TOLOSO.
SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS.
Mission San Francisco de Asis, better known as Mission Dolores, is the
sixth mission founded in Alta California, and was formally dedicated October
9th, 1776, by Fathers Palou, Cambon, Nocedal and Pena. Officers and soldiers
of the Presidio were present. High mass was sung by Father Palou, the image
St. Francis was exhibited, bells were rung, volleys of musketry rent the air,
cannons and rockets from the good ship San Carlos, lying in the bay, were fired.
The building was a comfortable house of wood, roofed with tules and plastered
with clay. It measure'd about 54x30x15 feet. The first chapel blessed was at
the presidio, on the I7th of September, on the Feast of Stigmata of St. Francis,
28
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS.
the patron saint of the port and missions, while the mission was named for the
patron saint of the Franciscan order.
The name Dolores (sorrow) in this instance signifies the name of a stream
or lagoon, a place known as " the willows " by those who came in 1849. This
swamp was later filled in and graded, forming the tract that lies between
Seventeenth, Nineteenth, Valencia and Howard streets. The corner-stone for
the present church was laid 1782,
and by 1795 adobe buildings with
tile roofs, forming two sides of a
square were completed ; also a ditch
protecting the potrero or cattle farm
and fields, had been dug.
Weaving looms were constructed
by the Indians and a substantial
though coarse kind of blanketing,
was woven as clothing for the
neophytes. Vancouver describes it
as " cloth not to be despised, had it received the advantage of fulling."
The products made and produced at Dolores Mission were soap, salt, wool,
hides, wine, tallow and butter. The garden was not notable for its
produce, the reason given being high winds and weather unfavorable to horti
culture. The climate proved detrimental to the Indians, and after a fierce
epidemic of measles, a new mission known as the " hospital mission " was
founded at San Rafael, across the bay, and 590 of the Indians were transferred
to this place for a change of climate. Later 322 neophytes were sent to Solano,
and it was thought best at one time to discontinue the mission at San Francisco
altogether; but the idea met stout opposition from Father President Sarria.
Consequently a new mission, known as New San Francisco or Solano, was
founded, and the old San Francisco, known as Dolores, was not abandoned.
Dolores was not a prosperous mission, and rapidly declined after secularisation.
The Fathers baptized 6883 persons and buried 2089. The little church-yard at
the side of the mission is small and sad. Few monuments mark the resting places
of any of the 2000 and over, who lie sleeping in that small space. A tall shaft
marks the grave of the first Mexican governor, Don Luis Antonio Arguello.
SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.
The founding of the Mission San Juan Capistrano was accomplished under
many discouragements. The first attempt was made by Fathers Lasuen and
Amurrio on the igth or the 3Oth of October, 1775. Dates given by Palou and
Ortega differ. The first service was held in a hut of branches. A large cross
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
29
SAX JUAN CAPISTRANO.
was erected and blessed, but nothing further was done at that time. The
bells of Capistrano were taken down from the tree and buried.
( hi November 1st, 17/6, a second attempt was made by Father Serra. A
new altar was erected, mass was celebrated, and the seventh mission of California
was founded, upon the site known by the Indians as Sajirit. Capistrano became
prosperous, but did not excel either in number of converts or in wealth. In
February, 1797, work was begun on
the stone chapel, the ruins of which
are standing today. It proved to be
one of the grandest church buildings
in California. It measured 159x30
feet, was surmounted by a lofty
tower, and all was of stone and
mortar. The stones were not hewn,
but were fitted together in the rough.
The church was built with nave
and transept with thick walls, and
an arched, dome-like roof. Here and there remain evidence of decoration.
Ten years ago there still were wooden figures to be seen in many small niches
and the carving showing ability and taste. It is to be regretted that these relics
were carried away and not placed in the room used as the chapel. The stone
church of San Juan Capistrano was dedicated September 7th. 1806. The cere
mony lasted three days, and visiting Padnes and Indians came long distances, even
as far as from Santa Barbara, to witness the ceremony. But the magnificent
building Was doomed to short service, for on the morning of December 8th,
1812. a terrible earthquake shook it to its very foundation, causing the lofty
tower to crash down upon the vaulted roof, precipitating the mass of stone and
mortar down upon the worshipping congregation — for it was on Sunday morning.
About fifty persons were present, and only ten escaped. Excavation for the
recovery of the crushed and mangled bodies began at once, but nothing has ever
been done toward restoring the building to its former grandeur. Capistrano was
secularized in 1833, ar|d even after the loss of the mission church the inventory
placed the valuation of the mission at about $55,000; with debts of only $1410.
In December, 1845, tne mission buildings were sold to McKinley and Forster
for $710.00. Juan Forster was in possession for twenty years, but after
extended litigation, the Catholic church regained possession of the property.
SANTA CLARA.
The Mission of Santa Clara was founded January 12th, 1777. by Father
Tomas de la Pena, O. S. F. The site was the present Laurel Wood Farm of
30
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
SANTA CLARA.
Peter J. Donahue. The floods of 1778-9, however, obliged the Fathers to look
for higher and safer grounds. They selected the " Valley of the Oaks," a
location some 150 yards to the southwest of the present Union depot of the
town of Santa Clara. At the ceremony of the removal of the Santa Clara
Mission to the second location, Father Serra was himself present, and officiated.
The structures there were begun November I9th, 1781, and the second
church and buildings were blessed
and dedicated on May I5th, 1784. The
earthquake of 1812 cracked the walls
of the church and the more severe
" temblores " of 1818 completed the
destruction. A third church was
erected upon the present site of the
mission church, and was dedicated on
August nth, 1822, the eve of Santa
Clara. This third church was the
work of Father Jose Viader, assisted
by Don Ignacio Alviso, as foreman. The original adobe walls of this church
were replaced in 1885 by wooden ones. The single belfry, and the facade was
replaced in 1862 by the present towers, and the present facades. But the
interior, the ornamentations and furnishings are almost intact. These latter
include the life-size crucifix, the original holy-water fonts, the pulpits of those
early days, the copy of the miraculous and historic painting of " Nuestra Senora
de Guadalupe," the identical reredos or background of the main altar, the
tabernacle and candelabra-shelves, the wings of the latter itself ; the accompany
ing statues in wood of Saints Joachin and Ann, parents of Our Lady ; and like
statues of Saints Juan Capistran and Colette. The reredos contain other statues
and medallions. The church has the identical frescoed ceiling of the chancel.
The paintings of the walls and ceilings of the interior are reproductions : also
the statue in wood of St. Francis of Asisi, with sacred stigmata on the hands
and feet; also that of St. Anthony of Padua, with the Infant Jesus in his arms.
In the right hand belfry are the three old bells donated to the Santa Clara
Mission by the King of Spain. Two bear the original dates, 1798 and 1799,
and the third, which was recast in 1864, bears the double dates 1805-64. In
the college library may be seen the historic paintings of " Alameda," the
" Beautiful Way," " Santa Clara Mission in 1851 " and the grand old choral
of those early days, with cover in bronze and wood.
At the time of Vancouver's visit to Santa Clara, many of the Indians were
engaged in building adobe houses for themselves. In 1794, twenty-three of
these dwellings with thatched roofs were completed, and in 1798, nearly all of
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
31
the married neophytes were thus accommodated. Today not a mission Indian
is to be found in or about Santa Clara. Here as at all other missions, seculari
zation with one blow ruined fifty years of faithful and patient work of the Padres.
SAN BUENAVENTURA.
The Mission of San Buenaventura Doctor Sarafico (Saint Bonaventura,
Serafic Doctor) was founded Easter Sunday, March 3Oth, 1783, by Father
Serra. It was the last mission that Father Serra founded, and he had intended
it to be one of the first. The delay was a trial to the good man, but he com
forted himself with the saying, " the more slowly the more solemnly." The
place chosen was the head of the Santa Barbara channel and the home of a large
tribe of Indians. The Indians were friendly and even assisted in building a
chapel, a house for Father Cambon, who was left in charge, and barracks for the
soldiers. The group of buildings was, for greater safety, surrounded by
a palisade. Within ten years San Buenaventura had become one of the
most flourishing settlements in
California. Van- couver, who vis
ited the mission in 1793, speaks
of the wonderful _**^±_ 1 gardens, the
plums, figs, or- anges, grapes,
pomegranates, cocoanut, sugar
cane, bananas, plantain and even
indigo ; besides all of the ordinary
. . , SAN BUENAVENTURA.
kitchen vege- tables, roots and
herbs. A disastrous fire compelled the missionaries to erect all new buildings.
The new church was built of stone and brick, and it is the one standing today.
But the tile roof is gone. The earthquake of 1812 damaged the church and
many buildings. The tower and much of the facade were rebuilt. The whole
site of Buenaventura settled, and the fear of all sinking into the sea frightened
the inhabitants away. They fled to San Joaquin y Santa Ana, where they
remained for a year. Here the Priests erected a cajal, or Indian hut, to be
used as a chapel. Upon their return to Ventura, the neophytes, under the
direction of the Fathers, restored the buildings to a better condition than they
were originally. In 1820 the government of Mexico owed to San Buenaventura
^S-1?0- There is no record that it was ever paid. They had purchased sup
plies from the mission, a cargo of hemp, and were in arrears in stipends to the
Fathers for $6,200. In 1822 the Indians had individual gardens along the banks
of the river, where they raised vegetables for sale. They labored and might
32
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
have become self-supporting, for the mission establishments sold great quantities
of produce and supplies to the home government as well as supplying their own
demands at the missions.
Secularization came in 1837. The mission estate was first rented for
$1,630.00 per annum, and then sold to Jose Arnaz for $12,000, in June, 1846.
His title was not recognized by the United States government. The records of
San Buenaventura are interesting old documents. They show 3,857 baptisms,
1,086 marriages, 3,098 deaths. In 1831 there were 7,240 head of live stock.
Today the old mission is the parish church of Ventura.
SANTA BARBARA.
Santa Barbara, (Virgin and Martyr) was founded December 4th, 1/86, by
Father Fermin Francisco de Lasuen, who had been made President of the Missions
the previous year to succeed the lamented Junipero Serra. The site selected was
called Tavnayam by the natives, and El Pedragoso by the Spaniards. It was about
one mile distant from the preside, which had been established in 1782 by Father
Serra. The location of Santa Barbara is the most beautiful of all the missions.
Back from the water's edge nearly two miles, it is situated in the foothills of the
Santa Ynez mountains. It was from the hills of San Marcos that the great oak-
beams were carried by oxen (or more likely by faithful Indian neophytes) and
used in the construction of the mission buildings. Chief Yanonalit, ruler of the
thirteen neighboring rancherias, proved friendly and contributed Indians to
assist in work, their labor to be paid for in articles of clothing and food. This
was especially .the arrangement for work on the presidio. The first chapel con
structed was of boughs.
In the following year, 1787. a church building 15x42 feet, was made of
adobe and thatched with straw. Six other buildings of the same kind were
erected, and in 1788 tiles were manu- ,^^_^____^^_^^__^_____
factured and all the buildings were
covered with them. In 1789 the
chapel had become too small, and
another was built. Again in 1793 a
larger one was constructed, a fact
which is evidence of prosperity. As
the Indian population was gradually
increasing, it became necessary to
form a village and build a separate
house for each family ; in consequence,
nineteen houses were built of adobe in 1798. Also a piece of land was
enclosed by an adobe wall nine feet high, and 3600 feet in extent ; to be used
SANTA BARBARA.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 33
as a garden, orchard and vineyard. The wall was capped with tiles to protect
it from the rain. In 1800 the village was laid out in streets and cross-
streets, and there were over fifty houses. The neophytes were taught to weave
blankets, to make soap, clothing, implements and many other necessary articles.
By 1807 the town of Santa Barbara had 252 dwellings besides the store
houses, and other necessary buildings, all enclosed on three sides by a
high wall.
In this year Santa Barbara dedicated a mission church at the station of
Sagshpileel, a large rancheria near a laguna. This was known as San Miguel.
Again in 1804 Santa Inez was formed because of the great number of susceptible
Indians in this district. The number thus withdrawn from Santa Barbara
Mission was over one hundred.
The earthquake of 1812 badly damaged the mission building at Santa
Barbara, so much so that the chapel building was torn down and replaced
by a new stone edifice — the present structure. This new edifice was
dedicated on September loth, 1820. The walls of the church, which is still
used by the Fathers, are six feet in thickness and were made of hewn stone,
strengthened by solid stone buttresses. The building is the most substantial of
any of the missions in California. In June, 1846, the mission was sold to
Richard S. Den for $7500, but the title was invalid. In 1852, a petition to
establish a Franciscan convent or college, with a novitiate for the education
of young men, was sent to Rome and was granted by the authorities. Santa
Barbara Mission was selected for the purpose. Bishop Thaddeus Amat removed
from the mission to the parish church, thus leaving the Fathers in possession.
By this arrangement they will have perpetual use of the buildings, gardens,
vineyard and two orchards. The inner garden of the Mission is the private
park or retreat for the priests, and is closed to the public. With two notable
exceptions, woman has never entered this garden. They were Mrs. Benjamin
Harrison, wife of the then President of the United States, and Princess Louise
Marchioness of Lome. The East garden, comprizing about one acre of land,
is a part of the old burying ground and contains over four hundred bodies, one
buried upon another. It is a beautiful spot, covered with roses, geraniums, rare
plants and trees.
The most valued treasure of Santa Barbara is a portion of the true
cross brought from the Holy Land. The Mission archives are of inestimable
value to California history. The library contains massive books of parch
ment, illuminated, and rare old manuscripts, descriptive of life and scenes
of early days in this country. When the missions secularized, books, manu
scripts and most valuable records were sent to Santa Barbara Mission for safe
keeping and many still remain there. Huge chests are filled with gorgeous
robes and vestments, many of them made of richest brocades.
34 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION.
December 8th, 1/87, Father Lasuen founded the Mission of La Purisima
Concepcion in honor of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin.
It is situated on the Santa Ynez river. The first church building was replaced
_ __ ^__^_ by a new one of adobe with tile
roof in 1795. Father Payeras, with
the aid of interpreters, completed in
MBjM^^^^^^^ 1810, a catechism and manual of
-^ .safc..- .„ confession in the Indian language.
Bl This was of greatest advantage to
the neophytes in the study of religion.
However, there remained at this time
• -- no more Indians nearer than twenty-
LA PURISIMA co.N-cEPciox. five or fa^y leagues away, to
be converted. In 1815 Father Payeras became president of the California
missions, but he continued to reside at Purisima, instead of repairing to San
Carlos del Carmelo.
Early on the morning of December I2th, 1812, a violent earthquake shook
the church walls out of plumb, a second shock about n o'clock destroyed the
chapel completely, and nearly all of the mission buildings, besides about 100
of the neophyte houses. Rents in the earth from which black sand and water
oozed, added to the peril. Huts of wood and grass were erected for tem
porary use. Later the mission was moved to a position farther up the river,
The first church building erected here was destroyed by fire and another
one erected and dedicated October 4th, 1825, the remains of which are to be
seen today. It is a long, low structure, and had twenty-one rooms. There
were twelve smaller buildings about it. The church ornaments were valued
in 1834 at nearly $5000; the library at $655; there were five bells, worth
$1000. In fact, the mission property, live-stock and ranches were valued at
over $60,000. In 1845 it was s°ld by the Governor to John Temple for
$1,110; and La Purisima was abandoned by its rightful owners, the Indians,
and the Padres.
The location is about three miles from the town of Lompoc, in Santa
Barbara county.
SANTA CRUZ.
Santa Cruz, the Mission of the Holy Cross, was formally established by Don
Hermenegildo Sal, on Sunday, September 25, 1791. The site had been selected
and blessed by Father Lasuen, August 28, on the day of San Augustin. Near
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
35
by was a fine stream in the Arroyo cie Pedro Regalado, which is now known as
Rio San Lorenzo. Huts were built by the Indians, land was prepared, and wheat
sown. The founding of the mission was most favorable, as many of the Indians
came and offered to help with the work, while their chief, Sugert, presented him
self, with a few of his' followers, and promised to become the first Christian of his
tribe, and Sal agreed to be godfather. In the history of the founding of the mis
sion, it is an interesting fact that frequently everything wherewith to establish a
new mission was contributed as a loan by the other missions. In this instance
Santa Clara contributed 64 head of cattle, 22 horses, 77 fanegas of grain, and 26
loaves of bread. San Francisco gave five yoke of oxen, 70 sheep and two bushels
of barley. San Carlos gave eight horses and seven mules. The vestments and
sacred vessels were loaned by other missions, also tools and implements, until
those intended for Santa Cruz should arrive from Mexico. The mission was
beautifully situated, near the waters of the I!ay of Monterey, and as a background
there was a dense forest. Although the founding was auspicious, the mission
never became an important or even flourishing establishment, because of the
close proximity of the penal sta
tion of Branci- forte, which later
became the town of Santa Cruz.
At the present ^«^ ' ' MlM^. date, however,
all of the un- 77T-~TTT .T" , , , pleasant associa-
l -J^^»— ^^^«___
tions of the con- vict hie have dis
appeared as whol- •~i*Mir'^ii*^fcl«.1^?"r ''' as ^ave ^e
old mission build- ^^8IB|HP m£s> an^ tne
Santa Cruz of to- ' • — * day is one of Cal-
fornia's charm- ing resorts. The
corner-stone of the mission church was laid February 27, 1793. The building was
120x30 feet. The walls were of stone to the height of three feet, the front was
of masonrv. and the rest of adobe. In 1812 Father Andres Quintana was brutally
murdered by nine or ten of the Mission Indians. Though sick himself, he left
his room at night to call upon a man said to be dying. On the way home he was
murdered. It was two years before the murderers were apprehended and pun
ished. Their defense was that of cruelty on the part of the father ; but the fact
that he had left his sick bed to minister to a dying man belied the accusation, and
the murderers were condemned to work in chains from two to ten years. Only
one survived the punishment. When Santa Cruz was secularized, in 1835, ten
thousand dollars of the church money was divided among the neophytes. In 1839
Hartnell found but seventy of the Indians remaining, and all of the money gone.
Of the mission itself there is now hardly a trace. The portion of a tile-covered
shed in 'the rear of the present church is all that remains. A few relics, among
them two mission books used by the Indians, may be seen in the church.
36
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
LA SOLEDAD.
The Mission of "Our Lady of Solitude" ("Soledad"), was founded
October gth, 1791, by Father Lasuen. The sites for Soledad and Santa Cruz
were selected upon the same trip. Governor Portola named this lonely spot
Soledad in 1769, but it was not until 1797 that the adobe structure with its
roof of straw, which was known as
the chapel of Soledad, was com
pleted. Later a tiled roof and corri
dors were added. Soledad became a
flourishing Christian settlement, but
after the secularization in 1835, so
great was the devastation and ruin
that the venerable Father Vincente
Sarria, who had labored for the mis-
LA SOLEDAD. s|on £or thirty years, and who refused
to leave his post of duty or the remaining Indians, died here in 1835. the year
of the secularization, of starvation and want. June 4th, 1846, Soledad Mis
sion was sold to Feliciano Soberanes for $800, yet the inventory of '35 had
shown a valuation of $36,000, besides the church property.
A heap of ruins standing alone in an open field, used for the growing of
grain, is all that today remains of Soledad Mission. The Indians called the
place Chuttusgelis, but the Spaniards called it Solitude.
SAN JOSE.
Mission San Jose was founded June 11, 1797, Trinity Sunday. By an
order from the College of Fernando, Mexico, the new mission was dedicated
to St. Joseph, the foster-father of Our Lord. A wooden structure with grass
roof was quickly constructed, and Father Barcenilla was left in charge. San
Jose was founded by Father Lasuen. The northern missions contributed very
generously toward the establishment
of the new one. They sent 12 mules,
12 yoke of oxen, 39 horses, 242 sheep
and 60 pigs. The Indians from the
adjacent hills proved to be treach
erous and cruel. Father Cueva after
having labored five years among them.
was cruelly attacked, wounded and
almost killed. He had been called a
long distance from the mission, about
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
37
fifteen miles, to attend to some sick neophytes. Upon arriving at the rancheria,
the natives attacked him and his guard with arrows, killing the guard, a soldier
and three neophytes and wounding Father Cueva. On account of the treachery
of the Indians, and their having made several attempts to do injury to the padres
and to the buildings, the houses were soon reconstructed, and made of brick from
the excellent brick-earth near by. There are chalk hills near San Jose, and
everywhere the soil is rich and fertile. The establishment was never extensive
nor imposing, yet at one time Mission San Jose had a greater number of neo
phytes than any other mission in California, with the single exception of San
Luis Rev. The illustration shows the mission as it was years ago, and gives
some idea of the plan of the establishment. San Jose was never wealthy, but
still they could order a bell weighing 1000 pounds, and that was considered a
luxury. At the time of the secularization the church property was valued at
$155,000 over and above the debts. On May 5th, 1846, San Jose Mission was
sold to Andres Pico and J. B. Alvarado, for $12,000, by Governor Pio Pico.
SAN JUAN BAUTISTA.
The Mission of San Juan Bautista was built on the edge of a mesa, over
looking a fertile valley, of what is now San Benito county, in San Juan Valley,
about seven miles from Hollister, the county seat. It was 200x70 feet on the
ground and height of walls was forty-five feet, being higher than most of the
mission churches. Each of the walls were supported by four buttresses.
Those on the northeast are still
standing: one re-
back ; while the
west is covered
lumber, to sup-
tect it from the
The church was
and transepts,
divided by seven
which have been
s u m ! a b 1 y to
building. There
~
SAX JfAN HAITTISTA.
mains at the
entire wall on the
with redwood
port and to pro-
elements,
built with a nave
The nave is sub-
arches, five of
walled in, pre-
strengthen the
is a choir loft
over the door entrance at the front. The church is lighted with eight quaint
little windows, with glass of small panes about five inches square.
The baptismal font, carved from sandstone, stands about three feet high,
and is three feet in diameter, and over it hangs an ancient picture of the baptism
.it Christ. The principal altar is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and is very
gaudily frescoed and painted. Statues of redwood, one life-size of St. John,
38 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
and four smaller ones, are executed with rare talent and artistic effect. That
they are of our native woods proves that the padres, Indians, or perchance a
Mexican, who dwelt at the mission, was more than ordinarily gifted in carving.
In the mission gardens are pear trees, planted a century ago. The cemetery,
one acre in size, is full to the limit. In many graves are said to be buried six
bodies, one above the other. In all, 4,557 bodies are there interred. An old
sun dial in the garden is an object of interest, carved from sandstone long be
fore the day of clocks in this country. It was originally intended for San
Felipe and is therefore one second slow for San Juan Bautista.
The site of San Juan, was selected as early as 1786, but the church of San
Juan Bautista was not established until June 24, 1797, the day dedicated to the
patron saint, John the Baptist. Work upon the chapel and the various build
ings was begun immediately. It took hundreds of workers fifteen years to
complete the task, and the chapel was dedicated by Father President Esteban
Tapis, June 25, 1812. The establishment was so constructed as to form a court
200 feet square with buildings on three sides of it, and a high wall on the
fourth. The material used was adobe (sun-dried brick) and ladiello, a kind of
brick that was frequently used for flooring, and was made in a subterranean kiln.
Adobes are made of certain mud mixed with straw or tough grass. Being
thoroughly kneaded by hand or trodden by foot it is molded in the desired shape
and dimensions and dried in the sun. Size, 16x30x4 inches and weight about
50 pounds. The ladellos were 8x12x2 inches, and after baking in a kiln were
very hard. The old floor at this mission is more than a century old, and is in
fair condition. The buildings were originally roofed with tile, a portion of
which has given place to shingles until such a time as the tile can be restored.
The walls of San Juan have been allowed to retain the delicate tint of the cinnabar
that colored the mortar, and left an effect that no after-tinting can successfully
imitate.
The fine music of San Juan was a feature of the mission and a reason of
its success. A chime of nine bells once called to worship. Only one of these
now remains. A second one was cast from two of the originals in 1874, but
lacks the sweet tone of the old ones. The other six bells have been given to
other churches. An interesting and ingenious attachment to the original chime
of bells is an old wooden wheel, with hollow arms, about two inches square,
hung on an axle. Between each two arms is hung a wooden clapper, and as
the wheel revolves, these clappers successively rap on the hollow arms. This
wheel was used to call the people to worship upon occasions when the Catholic
church rings no bells and could be heard at a great distance.
The Padres placed a small organ (the first brought to California), on an
elevation overlooking the valley, and swiftly turned the crank, and when the
Indians first heard the strange sounds, they fell upon their faces in fear ; but as
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 39
the music continued their fear left them and they began to enjoy the sweet
sounds. Finally they slowly approached the hill and gradually gathered about
the Padre and the wonderful singing box and listened with delight. After play
ing for an hour or more, he offered them sweets and told them that he had
come to live among them, and the good man received a hearty welcome. The
box is a hand organ standing about 4^ feet high. It has tin pipes and was
built by Benjamin Dodson, 22 Swan Street, London, England, in 1735. It was
brought to San Juan in 1797. It became disabled, and was removed to the
storehouse of the mission, where it remained for many years, when a wandering
tinker stopped at the mission for something to eat and repaired it. Father Tapis,
the priest of San Juan, composed a great deal of music for the California
missions. Three large volumes of his work remain at this mission alone.
Much of the music is on parchment, and in bold, clear characters.
The chapel of San Juan Bautista could accommodate one thousand or
more worshippers, and in prosperous days the capacity was frequently taxed
to its fullest. The mission possessed extensive lands and great herds.
Between the years 1797 and 1835, 4,100 persons were baptized. When the
crash of secularization came, the inventory showed a valuation of $147,413.
In 1846, San Juan was sold for debt. There are many choice mementoes at
San Juan church — ancient candlesticks of curious pattern, the old bass viol,
the rude music stand, a violin past all music, the old organ, vestments, robes
and sheet music, torn and faded, but dear to the devout and interesting to
the historian. Today it is an impoverished parish church — but nevertheless
one of the most interesting and artistic relics of the mission period.
SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL.
The Mission of San Miguel (St. Michael, the Arcangel), "the most glorious
prince of the heavenly militia," was founded on July 25, 1797, by Father Lasuen,
assisted by Father Buenaventura Sitjar. The site chosen was a beautiful spot
on the Salinas River called by the Indians Vahia, or Vatica, and by the Spaniards
Las Pozas. Father Lasuen says that a great multitude of Indians gathered
about with pleased expression, while he held the first service that founded the
Mission of San Miguel. The chapel consisted of the wide-spreading branches
of an old oak tree. A wooden church with mud roof, was soon erected, and it
was not replaced with the present structure until 1800. In 1801, three Indians
attempted to poison Fathers Martin and Carnicer. Father Pujol, who came
from San Carlos to attend the sick missionaries, was also poisoned, and died,
while the two whom he came to minister unto recovered. In 1806, a fire
occurred, which destroyed all the implements belonging to the mission, all of the
raw material, large quantities of wool, hides, cloth, and 6000 bushels of wheat ;
besides doing great damage to the building. The other missions contributed
40 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
to the relief of the burned San Miguel. The largest enrollment at this mis
sion was in 1814, when there were 1076. Total number of baptisms was
2588, and the largest number of cattle owned at one time was 10,558, in
1822. All this bespeaks the prosperity of the establishment. In 1819 Father
Cabot made a safe journey into the valley of the Tulares, a thing quite unusual,
and a proof of the safety of the country at that period. When the Indians
of San Miguel were consulted re
garding the scheme of secularization,
they expressed themselves as de
cidedly in favor of the missionary
fathers and their system. Their pref
erence was of no avail, and the mis
sion was confiscated in 1836, with a
valuation of $82,000. By 1845 a^
property had disappeared, except the
SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL. buildings, valued at $S8OO, which
were ordered sold by Governor Pico.
The sale was made July 4th, 1846, P. Rios and William Reed being the pur
chasers. Later the title was declared invalid, and the buildings restored to
the church.
The mission buildings consist of a chapel and a long row of low adobe
buildings. The corridor is a feature of the main edifice, the interior of which
is to many most interesting, since it remains in its original condition, showing
its ancient decorations and fixtures. The altar, very effective in color and
design, is a valuable piece of decorative art. It is crowned with a statue of
St. Michael, the patron saint. The floors are of burnt brick laid in alternating
rows of oblongs and squares. The chapel is in use and there is a resident
priest.
SAN FERNANDO REY DE ESPANA.
The mission of San Fernando was the second to be established within the
present limits of Los Angeles county, and was founded September 8, 1797, by
President Lasuen, assisted by Francisco Dumetz, at a site called by the natives
Achois Comihavit, on the lands claimed by Francisco Reyes, who quarreled with
the friars respecting the ownership of the land. The priests appropriated Reyes'
ranch house for their dwelling. The mission was established with the usual
religious ceremonies, in the presence of the troops and a great crowd of natives,
and dedicated as required by instructions from Mexico to San Fernando, King
of Spain. St. Ferdinand was Fernando III., who reigned in I2i7-'5i, and under
whose rule the crowns of Castile and Leon were united. He was the founder
of the Spanish Inquisition, and was canonized in 1671 by Pope Clement X.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
41
Francisco Javier Uria was associate priest with Dumetz. Ten children were
baptized the first day, and thirteen adults had been added to the list early in Oc
tober. In 1/97 there were fifty-five neophytes on the baptismal register; in 1800
there were 310, there having been to that date 352 baptisms and seventy deaths.
The number of cattle (including mules and horses) in 1800 was 526, and of sheep
600. In 1799 there were 1,200 bushels of wheat, corn and barley raised, and the
total yield for the three years 1798-1800 was 4,700 bushels.
The adobe church with a tile roof, the ruins of which yet remain, was com
pleted and consecrated in December, 1806. An earthquake occurred December
21, 1812, that did some slight damage to the church building, necessitating the
introduction of thirty new beams to support the wall. In 1813 a neophyte was
killed by the Indian alcalde, who threw a club at him from a distance of some
sixty feet with a view to hasten his work. The killing was deemed accidental,
and the penalty imposed was two months' imprisonment in the presidio. During
i8i6-'i8 a large number of neophytes deserted; before 1818 a new chapel was
completed The ____^ greatest popula
tion of this mis-
in 1819, and then
Captain de la
applied for a
Rancho, which
was already using
for the mission
troversy resulted
failing to obtain
it was not se-
SAN FERNANDO KEY DE ESPANA.
sion was i ,080,
began its decline.
Guerra, in 1821,
grant of the Pirn
Father Ybarra
to some extent
herds. The con-
in de la Guerra
the rancho ; but
cured for the
mission. About this time complaint was made that the soldiers behaved
badly, selling liquor to the Indians. The mission was no longer prosperous
in any respect, showing a decline in live stock and agriculture. The amount
of supplies furnished by this mission to the soldiers in 1822-27 was $21,203.
In 1834, with others, the Mission San Fernando was secularized, with Lieu
tenant Del Valle as the commissioner in charge. Yharre continued his ministry
until the middle of the year 1835, when he temporarily retired to Mexico.
Del Valle became major-domo the next year, which position he held until the
year 1837, when he was succeeded by Anastasio Carrillo. Captain Jose M.
Villavicencio served as administrator from the middle of the year 1838. In 1840
there were still about 400 Indians in the ex-mission community.
At one period of its history there were nearly one and a half miles of build
ings connected with this mission, these including residences, workshops, schools
and storehouses, all of which are now in ruins. The edifice erected especially as
an abode for the padres and reputed to be the finest of its kind in Alta California,
42 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
is, however, still standing in a fair state of preservation. It is principally inter
esting as having been the abode of the Mexican General, Andres Pico, and was
his headquarters during the war of occupation. It is two-story, nearly 300 feet
in length by eighty feet in width, inside measurements ; and the walls — of brick
and adobe — are four feet thick, The rafters, after being cut in the mountain
forests many miles away, were dragged here by Indians and oxen, each log being
occasionally turned upon the way, " that all sides might be planed alike." They
are as smooth as though really planed. The long corridor of this building is
paved with brick, and the heavy tile roof is supported by arches and columns of
masonry. Many of the windows are protected by iron bars, giving it a some
what prison-like appearance.
The church is 40x60 varas. tile roofed, board ceiling, brick floor, adobe
walls, three doors, seven windows with wooden bars ; sacristy, eight varas
square, with one door and window.
The general statistics of the San Fernando Mission from the date of its
foundation till its secularization in 1834, are as follows : Total number of bap
tisms 2,839, °f which 1,415 were Indian adults, 1,367 Indian children, 57 children
de razon. Total marriages, 849, of which 15 were gente de razon. Deaths,
2,028; 1,036 were Indian adults, 965 Indian children, 12 white adults and 15 white
children. The largest population was 1,080 in 1819. The sexes were nearly
equal; children from one-fourth to one-third. Largest number of cattle, 12,800
in 1819; horses, 1,320 in 1820; mules, 340 in 1812; sheep, 7,800 in 1819; goats,
600 in 1816; swine, 250 in 1814; all kinds, 21,745 animals in 1819. Total product
of wheat, 119,000 bushels, yield nineteen fold; barley, (only raised six years)
3,070 bushels, fourteen fold ; maize, 27,750 bushels, eighty-three fold ; beans,
3,624 bushels, fourteen fold.
It has been in part restored by the Landmarks Club.
SAN LUIS REY DE FRANCIA.
The Mission of San Luis Rev de Francia (Saint Louis IX, King of France,
member of the Franciscans) was founded by Frs. Lasuen, Santiago and Peyri, on
June 3, 1798. The ceremony of dedication was supplemented by the baptism of
fifty-four children. Within a week Father Peyri, who was left in charge, had bap
tized seventy-seven more. By July I he had 6,000 adobe bricks ready to begin
the erection of the mission buildings. It was due to Father Peyri's energy, zeal
and executive ability that San Luis Rey, the grandest mission building of Alta
California, was erected. It was completed in 1802. During the first decade this
mission made larger gains in number of neophyte population and had a lower
death rate than any other establishment. Father Peyri was beloved bv all. He
ministered personally to the needs of his charges, and likewise superintended the
agricultural pursuits. In 1818 San Luis Rey was the most prosperous mission in
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
43
SAN l.riS KEY DE FRANCIA.
California, and this in spite of the fact that so many of its sheep died that it was
necessary for the padres to go as far north as San Juan Bautista to obtain wool
enough for clothing.
Father Peyri early established a hospital and taught the Indians the rudi
ments of healthful living. The highest number of neophytes enrolled at one time
\\as j,8(,(), in 1826. In 1828 there was a white population of thirty-five at San
Luis Rey. Father Peyri, unlike most
of the Franciscans in California, was
a strong supporter of the Mexican
republic and his surprise and disap
pointment at the expulsion of the
( )rder in 1829 knew no bounds. The
pathetic romance of his being spirited
away at night and taken on board a
vessel lying in the Bay of San Diego,
is one well known to those inter
ested in the missions. When the neo
phytes learned that Father Peyri was gone, many of them mounted their ponies
and rode in the gray dawn of the morning in a wild chase to the sea, in order to
rescue their padre and bring him back to the mission. As they appeared on the
shore the ship weighed anchor and slowly sailed out to sea. It is said that two
venturesome boys swam after the ship and were taken on board and carried to
Spain with the Father.
San Luis Rev is the only mission that progressed after secularization ; but
it, too, declined after a few years, and was finally sold, on May 18, 1846, to Jose
A. Cot and Jose A. Pico for $2,437; ^ut their agent was dispossessed by General
Fremont, and they failed to regain possession. Later it was decided that the
governor had had no power to sell the mission. San Luis Rey was used as a
military post by our troops during the Mexican war, and at the close of the war
the government caused an estimate to be made of the cost of repairing and
restoring it to its former condition. The figures were $2,000,000.
An inventory taken August 22nd, 1835, gives a fair idea of the importance
and wealth of the mission. Valuation, $203,737.00; debts, $93,000.00; the church,
of adobe, tile roof, clay floor, board ceilings, nine doors, eighteen windows, four
adjoining rooms, value $30,000.00, was included in the total amount, as was also
the six ranches, valued at $40,437.00. These were Pala, Santa Margarita. San
Jacinto, Santa Ysabel, Temecula and one other.
In the day of its glory and wealth, San Luis Rey was the pride of all the
missions. It owned and pastured upon its lands an annual average of 20,000 head
of cattle, and nearly as many sheep. It kept 3,000 Indians to perform the various
kinds of service. In 1834 the mission had 3,500 neophytes to support. In
44
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
the zenith of its prosperity, it raised and harvested annually more than 60,000
bushels of grain, and 250 barrels of wine were produced from the vineyards.
The church is an imposing structure, 50x160 feet, and walls sixty feet in
height, by four feet in thickness. The tower at one corner contained eight bells.
The ornaments and vestments of the church, in gold and silver, were very rich
and beautiful. On one side of the mission building extended a corridor of two
hundred and fifty arches. In the rear was a large square enclosed by buildings
on each side. The front and rear sides formed corridors, with beautiful arches.
In this square was a well-kept garden, with a stone fountain, the favorite retreat
of the padres.
In 1892, steps were taken by Father O'Keefe, who for so many years was
well known at Santa Barbara Mission, to restore San Luis Rev to a condition of
usefulness, and the good father had succeeded so admirably that May I2th, 1894,
the mission was rededicated and title passed to the Franciscan order of the Catholic
church. A school for the training of priests of the order is now maintained there.
SANTA YNEZ, VIRGIN Y MARTYR.
The Mission Santa Ynez was founded September ijth, 1804. The work
of the Mission Fathers was there begun by the baptizing of twenty-seven
children. The present buildings were not commenced until after the destruc
tive earthquake of September 2ist, 1812, when a corner of the old church and
many of the best houses were destroyed. It was at Santa Ynez that the
serious and wide-spread Indian revolt of 1824 started. After destroying many
of the buildings they fled to Purisima and set fire to that establishment.
At the time of secularization, Santa
Ynez was valued at $56,000. In
1844, the Mission had sufficient en
ergy, enterprise and wealth to estab
lish a seminary of learning. The
Fathers, through the efforts of Bishop
Garcia, received a liberal grant of
land from the government for this
institution, beside an endowment of
$500 per annum, on condition that
all Californians in search of higher
education be admitted thereto. There were about 270 Indians at Santa Ynez
at this time. By order of Governor Pico, in 1836, the entire estate was rented
to Jose Covarrubias and Joaquin Carrillo for $580 per annum. The mission
was finally sold to the lessees in 1846, for $7,000, but the title was declared
invalid. Santa Ynez remained a religious institution until 1850, when it was
abandoned, and the Fathers went to Santa Barbara.
SANTA YNEH. VIRGIN Y MARTYR.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
45
SAN RAFAEL.
The mission of San Rafael, the first one located north of San Francisco,
was established December i8th, 1817. The Fathers and the Government of
California had a double purpose in fixing the site of this establishment. It
was intended to head off the Russian
encroachment from the north, and
also as a refuge for the neophytes of
San Francisco de Asis, of which it
was a branch. A scourge had be
come epidemic at Mission Dolores and
many of its occupants were trans
ferred to the new site, which was
supposed to be in a healthier region.
This establishment was never verv
SAN RAFAEL.
populous or influential. It reached
its zenith in 1828 when a membership of 1,140 neophytes was reported. After
this date it steadily declined and at the time of its secularization only about
500 Indians remained. During its existence, 1873 converts were baptized.
SAN FRANCISCO DE SOLANO.
On the 4th of July, 1823, a cross was blessed, Holy Mass was offered
ap, sacred songs were sung, and the Mission of San Francisco de Solano was
founded. It was called New San Francisco. It was not until April 4th, 1824,
that the mission church was formally
dedicated, by Father Altimira, to the
patron saint of the Indies. This
structure was of wood, and the one
of adobe, the remains of which are
seen today, was erected the same
year, many articles being donated by
the Russians, then living in that
region of country. The walls of the
new church were about completed,
when a terrific downpour of rain, last
ing several days, did great injury and changed the original plan. At the close of
the year, 1824, the mission numbered 639 neophytes, many of whom had come
from San Francisco, San Jose, and San Rafael. At the time of secularization
the movable property was distributed to the Indians. After 1840, Solano had
no existence as a mission community. During its entire history, 1,315 persons
were there baptized. Its greatest population was in 1832, when there were 996
persons enrolled.
SAX KUAN' 'IS
CHAPTER IV.
FROM MONARCHY TO REPUBLICANISM.
PABLO VICENTE DE SOLA was governor of California when Mexico
attained independence from Spain. He was of Spanish birth and was
bitterly opposed to the Revolution, even going so far as to threaten death
to any one who should speak in favor of it. Although the rule of Spain in Mexico
was overthrown in September, 1821, it was not until March, 1822, that official dis
patches reached Sola informing him of the change. The " plan of Iguala " under
which Iturbide finally overthrew the Spanish power contemplated the placing of
Fernando VII on the throne of the Mexican Empire, or, if he would not accept,
then some scion of the royal family of Spain. Such a termination to the revolu
tion did not affect Sola's loyalist sympathies. He called a junta to meet at Monte
rey and on the nth of April the oath was taken to the new government.
But Sola's royalist sympathies received a rude shock a few months later
when news reached California that Iturbide had seized the government for him
self and been proclaimed Emperor with the imposing title of '' Augustin I, by
Divine Providence and by the Congress of the Nation, first Constitutional Emperor
of Mexico." In September, 1822, the flag of Spain that for half a century had
waved over the palacio of the governor at Monterey, was lowered and the imperial
banner of Mexico took its place. California, from the dependency of a kingdom,
had become a province of an empire. Scarce half a year after the flag of the
empire floated on the breeze had passed when the emperor was dethroned and
forced into exile. The downfall of the empire was followed by the establishment
of a republic fashioned after that of the United States. The country over which
the viceroys of Spain had ruled for three hundred years was divided into nineteen
states and four territories. Only the states were allowed representatives in the
the senate ; the territories, of which Alta California was one, were to be governed
by a governor appointed by the president and a diputacion, or territorial assem
bly, elected by the people. Each territory was entitled to send a diputado, or dele
gate, to the Mexican congress.
Luis Antonio Argiiello succeeded Sola as governor, or gefe poltico (political
chief), as the office was later styled under the republic. He was elected, Novem
ber 9, 1822, president of the provincial diputacion and by virtue of his office be
came temporary governor instead of Sola, who had been elected delegate to the
imperial congress. Argiiello was a native Californian, having been born at the
presidio of San Francisco in 1784. He was a man of limited education, but made
good use of what he had. Like Sola he had been a pronounced royalist during
the revolution, but with the downfall of Spanish domination he had submitted
gracefully to the inevitable.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 47
The success of the revolution was most bitterly disappointing to the mission
padres. Through the long years of strife between Mexico and the mother coun
try they had hoped and prayed for the triumph of Spain. In the downfall of
Spanish domination and the rise of Republicanism, they read the doom of their
feudal institutions, the missions. On the promulgation of the Federal Constitu
tion of October, 1824, in California, Father Vicente de Serria, the president of
the missions — a Spaniard and a royalist — not only refused to take the oath of
allegiance to it, but also declined to perform religious services in favor of it. An
order was issued by the Supreme Government for his arrest ; but before it reached
California he had been superseded in the presidency by Father Narciso Duran of
San Jose. A number of the padres were hostile to the Republic and evaded
taking the oath of allegiance on the ground of obedience to the orders of their
Superior. Their unfriendly attitude to the Republic was one of the causes that
led to the secularization of the missions a few years later.
The Mexican government, shortly after its inauguration, removed most of
the restrictions imposed by Spain against foreigners settling in California and the
colonization law of 1824 was liberal. The state religion was the Roman Catholic
and all foreigners who settled in the country were required to embrace it. During
Spanish domination not more than half a dozen foreigners had been allowed to
become permanent residents. The earliest English settler was John Gilroy. who
was left by his vessel at Monterey in 1814. He married a daughter of Ignacio
Ortega and at one time owned a large body of land, but died poor. Joseph Chap
man, the first American settler, was one of Bouchard's men, captured at Monterey
in 1818.
Beginning with Baron Rezanof's visit to San Francisco, in 1806, for the
purpose of buying grain for the starving Russian colony at Sitka, the Russians
made frequent visits to the coast, partly to obtain supplies, but more for the pur
pose of hunting seal and sea otter. Their Aleut fur hunters in their bidarkas,
or skin canoes, killed otter in San Francisco bay and the Spaniards, destitute of
boats or ships, were powerless to prevent them. In 1812 they built a village and
fort about 18 miles north of Bodega bay, which they named Rbss, and which
mounted ten cannon. They also maintained a port on Bodega bay, and a small
station on Russian river. The Spanish protested against this invasion of terri
tory and threatened to drive out the Russians, but nothing came of either their
protests or threats. The Russian ships came for supplies and were welcomed by
the people and the padres, if not by the government officials. The Russian colony
was not a success, and after the decline of fur hunting the settlement became
unprofitable, and in 1841, the building and stock were sold by the Russian gov
ernor to Captain John A. Sutler for $30,000. The settlement was abandoned and
the fort and town have long since fallen into ruins.
Among the foreigners who came to California soon after the establishment
of Mexican independence and became prominent in affairs may be named, W.
E. P. Hartnell, Captain John R. Cooper, William A. Richardson, Daniel A. Hill
48 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
and William A. Gale. William Edward Petty Hartnell came from Lima as a
member of the firm of McCullock, Hartnell & Co., engaged in the hide and tallow
trade. Hartnell was an Englishman by birth, well educated and highly respected.
He married Maria Teresa de la Gucrra and twenty-five children were born to
them. He died at Monterey in 1859. William A. Gale came in 1810 as a Bos
ton fur trader. He returned to the territory in 1822 on the ship Sachem, the
pioneer Boston hide drogher. It brought to the coast a number of Americans
who became permanent residents of the country. California on account of its
long distance from the centers of trade had but few products for exchange that
would bear the cost of transportation. Its chief commodities for barter, during
the Mexican era, were hides and tallow. The vast range of country adapted to
cattle raising made that its most profitable industry. After the removal of the
restrictions on commerce with foreigners by the Mexican government, a profitable
trade grew up between the New England ship owners and the California ranch-
eros. Vessels were fitted out in Boston with a cargo of assorted goods suitable
for the trade. Voyaging around Cape Horn and stopping at the various points
along the coast they exchanged their stock of goods and Yankee "notions" for
hides and tallow. It took from two to three years to make the voyage out from
Boston and return, but the profits on the goods sold and on the hides received in
exchange were so large that these ventures paid handsomely. Cattle raising, up
to the time of the discovery of gold in 1848, continued to be the principal industry
of the country.
During the first decade of republican rule, there was but little change in polit
ical conditions or in the views of the people concerning the government. Mission
rule was still dominant and the people were subservient to the governors appointed
over them. But with the increase of foreigners and the advent of ex-revolution
ists from Mexico, the old-time native California Loyalists gradually became im
bued with a kind of republicanism that transformed them into malcontents, whose
protests against the sins of governmental officials took the form of pronuncia-
mentos and revolutions.
The first of the numerous revolts against the rule of the governors appointed
by the Mexican government occurred in November, 1829. The soldiers at the
presidios for years had received but a small part of their pay and were but poorly
clothed and provisioned. The garrison at Monterey rebelled and seized and im
prisoned their officers. That at San Francisco followed their example. Under
the leadership of Joaquin Solis, an ex-revolutionist of Mexico who had been ban
ished from that country, they marched southward to meet Governor Echandia,
who was moving northward with a force of about one hundred men from San
Diego, where he had established his capital. The two forces met at Dos Pueblos,
near Santa Barbara, and a bloodless battle ensued. The rebellious "escoltas"
(militia) were pardoned and returned to duty. Herrara, the deposed commissary-
general ; Solis, and several other leaders were arrested and sent to Mexico to be
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 49
tried, for high crimes and misdemeanor. On their arrival in that land of revolu
tions, they were turned loose and eventually returned to California.
The principal cause of the California disturbances was the jealousy and dis
like of the " hijos del pais " (native sons) to the Mexican-born officers who were
appointed by the superior government to fill the offices. Many of these were ad
venturers who came to the country to improve, their fortunes and were not scrupu
lous as to methods or means, so that the end was accomplished.
CHAPTER V.
REVOLUTIONS AND SECULARIZATION.
MAXL'EL VICTORIA succeeded Echandia as gefe politico of Alta Cali
fornia in January 1831. Victoria was a soldier, arbitrary and tyrannical,
and refused to convoke the diputacion, or territorial assembly. From
the outset he was involved in quarrels with the leading men of the territory.
Exile, imprisonment and banishment were meted out to small offences and some
times for none at all. At length Jose Antonio Carrillo and Don Abel Stearns, who
had been exiled to Lower California with Juan Bandini and Pio Pico, residents
of San Diego, formulated a plot for the overthrow of Victoria, and issued a
pronunciamento arraigning him for misdeeds and petty tyrannies. The soldiers
at the presidio, with their Captain, Portilla, joined the revolt, and with the
leading conspirators and fifty men marched northward. At Los Angeles they
released the prisoners from the jail and chained up instead, Alcalde Sanchez, the
petty despot of the pueblo who had been very ready to carry out the arbitrary
decrees of Victoria.
The San Diego army, augmented by the liberated prisoners and volunteers
from Los Angeles, to the number of 150 men, marched out to meet Victoria, who
with a small force was moving southward to suppress the rebellion. The two
armies met west of Los Angeles in the Cahuenga valley. In the fight that ensued
Jose Maria Avila, who had been imprisoned by Victoria's orders in the pueblo
jail, charged single-handed upon Victoria. He killed Captain Pacheco, of Vic
toria's staff and dangerously wounded the governor himself. Avila was killed by
one of Victoria's men. Victoria's army retired with the wounded governor to
San Gabriel mission and the revolutionists retired to Los Angeles. Next day,
the governor, who supposed himself mortally wounded, abdicated ; later he was de
ported to Mexico. Pio Pico, senior vocal of the diputacion, was elected gefe-
politico by that body, but Echandia on account of his military rank, claimed the
office and Pico, for the sake of peace, did not insist upon his rights.
Echandia did not long enjoy in peace the office obtained by threats. Captain
Augustin V. Zamorano, late secretary of the deposed Victoria, raised an army of
50 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
about one hundred men, some of whom were cholos, or convicts, which under the
command of Captain Ibarra marched southward and met no opposition until it
reached El Paso de Bartolo, on the San Gabriel river. Here Captain Barrosa, of
Echandia's force, with fourteen men and a piece of artillery stopped the onward
march of the invaders. Echandia had gathered an army of neophytes, said to
have been a thousand strong. On the approach of this body, Ibarra's men re
treated to Santa Barbara. The diputacion, which was really the only legal
authority in the country, finally effected a compromise between the two rivals.
Echandia was to be recognized as military chief for the country south of San
Gabriel, and Zamorano for all territory north of San Fernando, while Pico,
who by virtue of his rank as senior-vocal, was the lawful governor was left
without jurisdiction. After this adjustment there was peace.
On January I4th, 1833, Jose Figueroa, "gobernador proprietario" of Alta
California by appointment of the Supreme government of Mexico, arrived at
Monterey. Zamorano at once turned over to him whatever authority he had
and Echandia did the same. Figueroa was Mexican born, of Aztec descent,
and is regarded as one of the ablest and most efficient of our Mexican governors.
He instituted a policy of conciliation and became very popular with the people.
He inaugurated a number of reforms, especially in the treatment of the neophytes
and in his attention to the conditions of secularization, which took place during
his term of office. Another important event of this time was the arrival of
the Hijar colonists.
In 1833, Jose Maria Hijar, a Mexican gentleman of considerable property,
•aided by Jose Maria Padres, set about organizing a scheme for the founding
•of an extensive colony in California. Each settler was promised a ranch and
was to receive rations to the amount of four reales per day with a certain amount
•of live stock and tools. All to be repaid later from the products of the faflm.
A corporation known as the "Compania Cosmopolitana" was organized for the
purpose of buying vessels and carrying on a shipping business between Mexico
;and California. About 250 colonists were recruited and left the City of Mexico
for San Bias where they were to be given free passage. One of the vessels
bringing them landed at San Diego, September ist, 1834, and the other reached
Monterey September 25th.
Hijar had succeeded in securing an appointment as gefe-politico ; but after
his departure for California, President Santa Anna countermanded the order
and sent a courier overland by the way of Sonora with an order to Figueroa
not to give up the governor-ship. By one of the most remarkable rides in his
tory, this courier reached Monterey before Hijar, and delivered his message to
Governor Figueroa. Hijar, on his arrival at the capital found himself shorn
of all authority. Part of the scheme of Hijar and Padres was the sub-division
of the mission property among themselves and their colonists. But the revoca-
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 51
tion of his commission deprived him of his power to enforce his plans. An
attempt was made to form a settlement at San Francisco Solano, but was not
successful and many of the colonists returned to Mexico, while the remainder
were scattered throughout the territory. Hijar and Padres were accused of insti
gating a plot to overthrow Figueroa and seize the mission property. They were
shipped out of the country and thus ended in disaster to the promoters the first
California colonization scheme.
The missions had been founded by Spain for the purpose of converting
the Indians to the "holy faith" and transforming them into citizens. The natives
residing becween the Coast Range and the ocean from San Diego to San Fran
cisco had been gathered into the different mission establishments, each of which
held in possession, in trust, for its neophyte retainers, large areas of the most
fertile lands in the territory. This absorbtion of the public domain by the
missions prevented the colonization of the country by white settlers.
The first decree of secularization was passed by the Spanish Cortes in 1813;
but Spain was then engaged in a death struggle with her American colonies
and she had neither power nor opportunity to enforce it. In July, 1830, the
territorial diputacion adopted a plan of secularization formulated by Echandia
in 1828; but before it could be carried out, he was superseded by Victoria who
was a friend of the padres and strongly opposed to secularization. Governor
Figueroa was instructed to examine into the condition of the neophytes and re
port upon the best method of bringing about a gradual emancipation of the
Indians from missionary rule. He visited some of the older missions himself
and. after careful study, was convinced that any general measure of seculariza
tion would be disastrous to the neophytes. A few might be given their liberty
and entrusted with property ; but the great mass of them were incapable of self-
government or self support.
In the meantime, the Mexican Congress, without waiting for information
from Figueroa as to the advisability of the step, ordered the immediate emancipa
tion of the neophytes. August I7th. 1833, a decree was passed ordering the
secularization of all the missions. It was provided that each mission should
constitute a parish, served by a priest, or curate, who should be paid a salary.
The Franciscans and Dominicans who had taken the oath of allegiance to the
republic were to return to their colleges or monasteries ; while those who refused
to take the oath of allegiance were to quit the country. The expense of putting
the decree into operation was to be paid out of the "Pious Fund." The Pious
Fund of California was made up of contributions for the founding and main
tenance of missions in the Californias. It was begun for the benefit of the
missions of Lower California, in 1697, and increased until it amounted to one
and a half million dollars, in 1842. It was confiscated by the Mexican govern
ment ; but after long litigation the money was finally awarded to the Catholic
church of California by the Hague Tribunal in 1902.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
Figueroa and the territorial diputacion, under instructions from the Su
preme Government, June 31, 1834, adopted a plan for the secularization of the
missions and the colonization of the neophytes into pueblos. Each head of a
'family was to receive from the mission lands a lot not more than 500 nor less
than looo varas square. One half of the cattle and one half of the farming-
implements and seed grains were to be divided pro rata among those receiving
lands for cultivation. Out of the proceeds of the remaining property which was
to be placed under a major domo, the salaries of the administrator and the
priest in charge of the church were to be paid. No one could sell or incumber
his land nor slaughter cattle — except for subsistence. The government of the
Indian pueblo was to be administered the same as that of the other pueblos in the
territory. Before the plan of the diputacion had been promulgated, Figueroa
had experimented with the neophytes of the San Juan Capistrano mission and a
pueblo had been organized there. For a time it promised to be a success but
ended in a failure.
For years the threat of secularization had hung over the missions, but here
tofore something had always occurred to avert it. When it became evident that
the blow would fall, the missionaries determined to save something for them
selves. There were, on the various mission ranges, in 1833, nearly half a
million head of cattle. San Gabriel, the richest of the .missions, had over fifty
thousand head. Thousands of these were slaughtered on shares for their hides
alone and the carcasses left on the ground to rot. So terrible was the
stench arising that the ayuntamiento of Los Angeles, in 1834. passed an ordinance
compelling every one slaughtering cattle for the hides to cremate the carcasses.
The diputacion finally issued a reglamento prohibiting the wholesale destruction
of the mission cattle. What remained of the mission property was inventoried
by commissioners appointed by the governor and a certain portion distributed to
the Indians of the pueblo into which the missions had been converted. The
property was soon wasted; for the Indian wns improvident and indolent and
took no thought for the morrow. His property soon passed out of his hands
and he became virtually the slave of the white man.
Governor Figueroa died at San Juan Bautista, September 29, 1835 and
was buried in the mission church at Santa Barbara, with much ceremony. He
was called the "Benefactor of California." Before his death, he had resigned his
political command to Jose Castro, primer-vocal of the diputacion. who held the
office for four months. By order of the Supreme Government, he delivered it
over to Col. Nicholas Guiterrez, who held the military command of the terri
tory, until the arrival in May, 1836, of Mariano Chico, the regularly appointed
"gobernador proprietario." Chico was a man of inordinate self-conceit and of
but little common sense. He very soon secured the ill-will of the Californians.
Shortly before his arrival a vigilance committee, or as it was called by its or
ganizers, " Junta Defensora de la Seguridad Publica," the first ever formed
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
53
in the territory, had taken from the legal authorities at Los Angeles, two criminals,
under arrest for the murder of the woman's husband, and had executed them by
shooting them to death. This violation of law greatly enraged Governor Chico
and one of his first acts on taking office was to send Col. Guiterrez with troops
to Los Angeles to punish the vigilantes. Victor Prudon, the president of the
Junta Defensora, Manuel Argaza, the secretary, and Francisco Aranjo, the
military officer who had commanded the members of the Junta, were arrested
and committed to prison until such time as the governor could come to Los
Angeles and try them. He came in June and after heaping abuse and threats
upon them, finally pardoned the three leaders of the "Defenders of Public
Security." Then he quarreled with Manuel Requena, the alcalde of Los Angeles,
who had opposed the vigilantes, and threatened to imprison him. He returned
to Monterey where he was soon afterward involved in a disgraceful scandal
which ended in his placing the alcalde of that town under arrest. The people,
disgusted with him. arose en masse assuming a threatening attitude. Alarmed
for his safety, Chico took passage for Mexico and California was rid of him, after
three months of his rule. Before his departure he turned over the political and
military command of the territory to Col. Gutierrez.
Gutierrez, like Chico,
was a man of violent tem
per. It was not long be
fore he was involved in a
quarrel that eventually
put an end to his official
career. In his investiga
tion of governmental af
fairs at Monterey, he
charged fraud against
Angel Ramirez, the ad
ministrator, and Juan
Bautista Alvarado, the
auditor, of the custom
house. Volleys of words
were fired by both sides
and Gutierrez threatened to put the two officials in irons. This was an insult that
Alvarado, young, proud and hot-blooded, could not endure in silence. He left the
capital and with Jose Castro, at San Juan, began preparations for a revolt against
the governor. His quarrel with Gutierrez w?s not the sole cause of his fomenting
a revolution. He was president of the diputacion and the governor had treated
that body with disrespect, or at least, the members, of whom Castro was one,
so claimed. General Vallejo was invited to take command of the revolutionary
movement but, while he sympathized with the cause, he did not enlist in it.
MEXICAN CUSTOM HOUSE, MONTEREY.
54
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
News of the projected uprising spread rapidly. Castro and Alvarado with
out much effort soon collected an army of seventy-five Californians. They also
secured the services of an auxiliary force of twenty-five Americans — hunters and
trappers — under the command of Graham, a backwoodsman from Tennessee.
With this force they marched to Monterey, and by a strategetic movement cap
tured the Castillo. The revolutionists demanded the surrender of the presidio
and the arms. Upon the refusal of the governor a shot from the cannon of the
Castillo crashed through the roof of the comandante's house and scattered
Gutierrez and his staff. This — and the desertion of most of his soldiers — brought
the governor to terms. November 5, 1836, he surrendered the presidio and re
signed his office. With about seventy of his adherents, he was placed on board a
vessel in the harbor and a few days later departed for Mexico.
CHAPTER VI.
THE FREE STATE OF AI/TA CALIFORNIA.
THE Mexican governor having been expelled, the diputacion, which was
composed of hijos del pais, was called together and a plan for the
independence of California was formulated. This plan declared that
" California is erected into a free and sovereign state, establishing a congress
which shall pass all special laws of the country, also assume the other necessary
i supreme powers." The diputacion issued a de
claration of independence which arraigned the
mother country, Mexico, for sins of commission
and omission ; and Castro promulgated a pro-
nunciamento ending with a '' Viva for El
Estado Libre y Soberano de Alta California."
(The Free and Sovereign State of Alta California.)
Amid the vivas and the pronunciamentos, with the
beating of drums and the roar of cannon, the state
of Alta California was launched on the political
;-ea. The revolutionists soon found that it was
easy enough to declare the state free; but quite
another matter to make it free.
For years there had been a growing jealousy
between northern and southern California. Los
Angeles, through the efforts of Jose Antonio
Carrillo had, by the decree of the Mexican congress in May, 1835, been raised
to the dignity of a city and made the capital of the territory. In the movement
JOSE ANTONIO CARRILLO.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 55
to make California a free and independent state, the Angelenos recognized an
attempt to deprive their city of its honor. Although as bitterly opposed to
Mexican governors and as actively engaged in fomenting revolutions against
them as the people of Monterey, they chose at this time to profess loyalty to
the mother country. They opposed the Monterey plan of government and
formulated one of their own, in which they declared that California was not
free and that they would obey the laws of the Supreme government only.
Alvarado had been made governor by the diputacion and Castro
comandante general of the army of the Free State. They determined to sup
press the recalcitrant surenos (southerners). They collected an army of eighty
natives, obtained the assistance of Graham with his American riflemen, and
marched southward. The ayuntamiento of Los Angeles had organized an army
of 270, partly neophytes, which was stationed at the Mission San Fernando.
Before the northern troops reached the mission, commissioners from Los
Angeles met them and a treaty of peace was patched up. Alvarado
with his troops arrived in Los Angeles January 23rd, 1837, and was received
with expressions of friendship. An extraordinary meeting of the ayuntamiento
was called ; Pio Pico expressed the great pleasure it gave him to see a " hijo
del pais " in office and Antonio Osio, one of the most belligerent of the south
erners, declared that, " sooner than again submit to a Mexican governor, or
dictator, he would flee to the forest and be devoured by wild beasts." Alvarado
made a conciliatory speech and an agreement was entered into to support the
" .Monterey plan," with Alvarado as governor pro tempore, until the Supreme
government should decide the question. Quiet reigned in the south for a few
months. Then San Diego formulated a plan of government and the standard
of revolt was again raised. The San Diego " plan " restored California to
allegiance to the Supreme government and the officials at San Diego and Los
Angeles took the oath to obey the constitution of 1836; this, in their opinion,
absolved them from obedience to Juan Bautista Alvarado and his " Free State."
In October came the news that Carlos Carrillo of Santa Barbara had been
appointed governor by the Supreme government. Then consternation seized
the " Free State " men of the north and the surenos of Los Angeles went wild
with joy. They invited Carrillo to make Los Angeles his capital — an invitation
which he accepted. December 6th was set for his inuaguration and great
preparations were made for the event. Cards of invitation were issued asking
the people to come to the inauguration " dressed as decent as possible." A
grand ball was held in the governor's palacio — the house of widow Josefa
Alvarado, the finest in the city. Cannon boomed on the old plaza, bonfires
blazed in the streets and the city was illuminated for three nights. Los Angeles
was at last a real capital and had a governor all to herself.
Alvarado and Castro, with an army, came down from the north determined
56 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
to subjugate the troublesome southerners. A battle was fought at San Buena
ventura. For two days cannon volleyed and thundered — at intervals. One
man was killed and several mustangs died for their country. The " surenos "
were defeated and their leaders captured and sent as prisoners of state to Vallejos'
bastile at Sonoma. Los Angeles, Carrillo's capital, was captured by Alvarado.
Carrillo rallied his demoralized army at Las Flores. Another battle was fought —
or rather a few shots were fired at long range — which hurt no one. Carillo
surrendered and was sent home to his wife at Santa Barbara — who became
surety for his future good behavior. Alvarado was now the acknowledged
governor of El Estado Libre de Alta California ; but the " Free State " had
ceased to exist. Months before Alvarado had made his peace with the Supreme
government by taking the oath of allegiance to Mexico, thus restoring California
to the rule of the mother country. In November, 1838, Alvarado received his
formal appointment as " gobernador interino " of California, or rather of the
Californias; for under the new constitution creating twenty- four departments
instead of states, the two Californias constituted one department.
In the internecine wars and in their revolts against the ' Mexican gov
ernors, the Californias invoked the aid of a power that would not down at their
bidding — that was the assistance of the foreigners. Zamorano in his contest
with Echandia was the first to enlist the foreign contingent. Next Alvarado
secured the offices of Graham and his riflemen to help in the expulsion of
Gutierrez. In his invasion of the south he and Castro again called in the
foreign element headed by Graham and Coppinger. Indeed the fear of the
American riflemen, who made up the larger part of Graham's force, was the
most potent . factor in bringing the south to terms. These hunters and trappers,
with their long Kentucky rifles, shot to kill and any battle in which they took
part would not be a bloodless affair.
After Alvarado had been confirmed in his office, he would gladly have rid
himself of his allies. But they would not be shaken off and were importunate
in their demands for the recognition of their services. There were rumors that
the foreigners were plotting to overthrow the government and revolutionize
California, as had already been clone in Texas. Alvarado issued secret orders
to arrest a number of foreigners whom he had reason to fear. About one
hundred were arrested during the month of April, 7840. and forty-seven were
sent as prisoners in irons to San Bias. The others were released. The
prisoners, who were about equally divided in nationality between Americans and
Englishmen, were confined in prison at Tepic. Here the British consul, Barren,
was instrumental in securing their release — the American consul being absent.
The Mexican government paid them damages for their imprisonment and fur
nished those who had a legal right to residence in California with transpor-
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
57
tation to Monterey, where they landed in July, 1841, better dressed and with
more money than when they were sent away.
An important event during Alvarado's rule was the capture of Monterey,
October igth, 1842, by Commodore Thomas ap Catesby Jones, commander of
the United States forces of the Pacific. Jones, who was cruising in the south
Pacific, learning that Admiral Thomas, in command of the English squad
ron of the Pacific, had sailed out of Callao under sealed orders, suspected
that the Admiral's orders were to seize California. Knowing that war was
imminent between Mexico and the United States, Jones determined to take
possession of California for the United States, if he could reach it before the
English admiral did. Crowding on all sail, he arrived at Monterey October
igth and immediately demanded the surrender of California, both Upper and
Lower, to the United States government. He gave Governor Alvarado until
nine o'clock on the morning of the 2Oth to decide on his course. Alvarado had
been already superseded by Micheltorena, who was then somewhere in the
neighborhood of Los Angeles, and at first decided to shirk the responsibility
of surrender by leaving the town ; but he was dissuaded from this step. The
terms were agreed upon and at ten o'clock the next morning 150 sailors and
marines disembarked, took possession of the fort, lowered the Mexican flag
and raised the American colors. The officers and soldiers of the California
government were discharged and their guns and arms taken into possession by
the United States troops, and carried into the fort. On the 2ist, at four p. m.,
the flags again changed places — the fort and arms were restored to their former
claimants. Commodore Jones had learned from some Mexican newspapers
found in the captured fort that war did not yet exist between the two republics.
IP*
•••^^^Miefiasjs
'•£K~- •v,,-"'
CHAPTER VII.
CLOSING YEARS' OF MEXICAN ERA.
FOR some time ill feeling had been growing between Governor Alvarado-
and the comandante general, M. G. Vallejo. Each had sent commis
sions to the Supreme government to present his side of the quarrel.
The Supreme government finally decided to combine the civil and military
offices in the person of a Mexican officer, and on January 22nd, 1842, Manuel
Micheltorena, who had seen service with the Santa
Anna in Texas, was appointed to this office. He
was to be provided with a sufficient number of
troops to prevent the intrusion of foreigners — parti
cularly Americans — into California. The large
force promised him finally dwindled down to 300
convicts, known as cholos, who were released from
Mexican prisons on condition that they serve in the
army.
Governor Micheltorena had landed with his
ragged cholos at San Diego, in August, and was
leisurely marching northward to the capital. On
the night of October 24th, he had arrived at a
point twenty miles north of San Fernando when
news reached him of the capture of Monterey by
Commodore Jones. The valiant commander and
his cholos retreated to San Fernando where they
remained until they learned of the restoration of Monterey to the Californians.
Then they fell back to Los Angeles. Here, January 2Oth, 1843, Commodore
Jones had a conference with the governor who made some exorbitant demands,
among others that the United States government should pay $15,000 to Mexico
for the expense incurred in the general alarm and for a set of musical instru
ments lost in the retreat, and also replace 1,500 uniforms ruined in the violent
march. Commodore Jones did not deign an answer to these ridiculous
demands ; and Micheltorena did not insist upon them. The conference closed
with a grand ball — and all parties were pacified.
Micheltorena took the oath of office at Los Angeles, December 3ist, 1842.
Speeches were made, salutes were fired and the city was illuminated for three
nights. With his Falstaffian army, the governor remained at Los Angeles until
mid-summer. The Angelerios had, for years, contended with the people of
Monterey for the capital and had gone to war to gain it. Now that they had
OEX. M. G. VALL.EJO.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 59
the coveted prize, they would gladly have parted with it if, by so doing, they
could rid themselves of Micheltorena's thieving soldiers. The men were not
altogether to blame, as their pay was long in arrears and they received but
scant supplies of clothing or rations. It was a case of steal, or starve — and
they stole.
In August Micheltorena and his cholo contingent reached Monterey. The
Californians did not welcome the Mexican governor very heartily.
While indolent and vacillating, he was a man of considerable ability, and
began his rule with the intention of improving conditions in California.
Education had been sadly neglected both under Spanish and Mexican domina
tion. One of his first attempts was to establish a public school system. Five
hundred dollars was apportioned from the public funds for the maintenance of
schools in each of the larger towns and arrangements were made for the opening
of several schools for girls. Heretofore the public schools had been open only
to boys. What was left of the mission estates was restored to the Padres and
an earnest effort was made to reconcile sectional animosity, but with all of his
efforts to be just and better the condition of California, there was still an
undercurrent of hostility to him. Part of this was due to the thieving of his
convict soldiers ; but a more potent cause was the ambition of certain " hijos
del pais " to rule the territory. They blamed the governor for retaining his
cholos in the country, claiming that they were kept for the purpose of subjugat
ing, or terrorizing, the natives.
The appointment of Micheltorena to fill both the civil and military offices
was a bitter disappointment to Alvarado and Vallejo. They were not long in
discovering that much as they hated each other, they hated the Mexican worse.
They buried the hatchet and combined with Castro to do what the trio had
done before — drive the Mexican governor out of the country. The depredations
of the cholos had so embittered the people that they were ready to join the
standard of anyone who would head a revolution. On November I5th, 1844,
a meeting of the leaders of the dissatisfied was held at Alvarado's Rancho de
Aliso, and a pronunciamento against Micheltorena was issued.
Alvarado and Castro headed a body of revolutionists, numbering about
thirty, who moved northward to San Jose, where they were largely reinforced.
Micheltorena set out in pursuit of them ; after some maneuvering, a treaty was
finally effected between the belligerents. Micheltorena pledged his word of
honor to send back to Mexico, within three months, his vicious soldiers and
officers; while Alvarado and Castro, on their part, agreed to go into winter
quarters at San Jose, with their troops, who were to constitute the military force
of the territory after the departure of the convict soldiers. Micheltorena
returned to Monterey, but the censure of his officers for the surrender caused
him to break his word and secretly plot for the capture of the insurgents. He
60 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
secured the aid of Captain John A. Sutter, a Swiss gentleman, who had an
establishment at New Helvcetia, now Sacramento, and a company of Indians
drilled in military maneuvers and the use of arms. Beside his Indians, Sutter
secured for Micheltorena the services of a number of foreigners, mostly Amer
icans. Alvarado and Castro learned of the perfidy of Micheltorena through
the capture of one of his messengers with a letter to Sutter. Not being prepared
to sustain an attack from the combined forces of Micheltorena and Sutter, they
hurriedly broke camp at San Jose and with a portion of their force marched
to Los Angeles where they arrived, January 21 st, 1845. They endeavored to
fire the southern heart against the governor, but the old animosity was as strong
as ever and the southerners regarded with suspicion the friendly advances of
their old enemies. The Pico brothers were finally won over and Pio Pico, who
was primer-vocal, of the " junta departmental " or assembly, called that body
together, to meet at Los Angeles, on January 28th. It declared Micheltorena
a traitor to the country who must be deposed.
Sutter with his force numbering about two hundred men, one hundred of
whom were Indians, joined Micheltorena at Salinas early in January. The
combined forces — about four hundred — began a leisurely march to the south.
The fear of a raid by Micheltorena's cholos and Slitter's Indians had stimulated
recruiting in the south, and Castro and Pico soon found themselves at the head
of about four hundred men. A commission from Los Angeles met the governor
at Santa Barbara on Feburary 7th with propositions for a settlement of the
difficulty. He treated the commission with scant respect and offered but one
condition — unconditional surrender of the rebels.
A week later the departmental assembly met at Los Angeles and passed
resolutions deposing Micheltorena and appointing Pio Pico temporary governor.
In the meantime, disgusted with Micheltorena's slow movements, about half
of the foreigners in his army deserted. Micheltorena's army moving clown by
way of Encinas, and Castro's forces advancing from Los Angeles, met on the
Cahuenga plain. Artillery firing began at long range and thus continued all
day. The foreigners in the respective armies got together in a ravine during
the fight and agreed to let the Mexicans and Californians settle their dispute
in their own way.
Toward evening, Micheltorena undertook to make a flank movement and
marched his troops to the eastward, evidently intending to follow the river
down to the city. Castro and Alvarado moved back through the Cahuenga
Pass and again encountered the opposing force at the Yerdugo rancho. A few
cannon shots were fired when Micheltorena displayed a white flag in token of
surrender. Terms of capitulation were drawn up by which he and his convict
army were to be sent back to Mexico. Pio Pico was recognized as temporary
governor and Castro was made comandante general of the miltary force. As
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 61
a sedative to his military pride, Micheltorena was granted permission to march
his army to San Pedro with all the honors of war, taking with them their three
pieces of artillery, but the guns were to be given up at the embarcadero. The
governor and his soldiers were sent to Monterey and there, joined by the
garrison that had been stationed at the capital, all were sent to San Bias,
Mexico. Captain Sutter was taken prisoner during the battle and was held
under arrest for some time after the departure of Micheltorena. He was at
length released and allowed to return, with his Indians, by way of Tejon Pass
and the Tulares, to New Helvetia.
Pio Pico, by virtue of his position as senior vocal of the assembly, became
governor, and Castro, in accordance with the treaty of Cahuenga, was comand-
ante general. Alvarado was made administrator of the custom house in Monte
rey. Thus the " hijos del pais " were once more a power and the factional fight
between the " uppers " and the " lowers " was once more declared off. Pico
established his government at Los Angeles and that " ciudad," ten years after
the Mexican congress had decreed it the capital, became the seat of governmnet.
Castro established his military headquarters at Monterey and Jose Antonio
Carrillo, one of the leaders of the " lowers," was made comandante of the military
in the south. Pico began his rule with a desire to benefit the territory. He
might have succeeded, had he been able to control the discordant factions.
As has been previously stated, Micheltorena restored, as far as possible,
the mission property to the Padres ; but it was impossible to establish the old
order — even on a small scale. The few Indians remaining at the missions
were unmanageable. Through the neglect or incompetency of the administra-
dors, debts had been incurred and creditors were importunate. The Padres
in charge were mostly old men, unable to cope with the difficulties that beset
them on every side. Pico, with the concurrence of the junta, decided to make
a change in the mission policy. In June, 1845, ne issued a decree, warning the
Indians at San Rafael, Soledacl, San Miguel and Purisima to return to their
respective missions. Failing to do so, they were to be declared vagrants and
punished as such. At Carmel, San Juan Bautista, San Juan Capistrano anfl
Solano, where pueblos had been established, the church and the curate's home
were to be reserved and the balance of the property sold at auction to pay the
debts of the missions. The abctndoned missions and the mission pueblos before
mentioned were sold in December, 1845, and ten of the missions were rented
for a term of nine years. The proceeds of the sale were to be used for the
benefit of the Indians and the support of the Padres. In those rented,
the Indians were at liberty to remain in the service of the lessees. A
portion of the proceeds were to be used for the support of religious
services. The change brought no improvement in the condition of
the neophytes. They sank still lower in degradation, while the mis-
62
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
sions, deprived of income and of power, ceased to exist. Notwithstanding
Pico's efforts to conciliate the discordant elements, it soon became evident that
the old spirit of turbulence was still dominant. The first insurrectionary move
ment originated with Jose Antonio Carillo, Pico's own brother-in-law. This
was suppressed and Carillo and Vareles, one of his auxiliaries, were shipped to
Mexico for trial; but were released and returned to California. Castro ignored
Pico in milittary affairs and soon a bitter quarrel was on between the gefe
politico and the comandante general.
For a number of years there had been a steady
influx of foreigners — mostly Americans. Many of
them had married into prominent families and had
become by naturalization, Mexican citizens. In 1841,
the first train of immigrants arrived in California
overland. The immigration over the plains contin
ued to increase after this. The leading Californians
saw that it was their manifest destiny to become a
territory of the United States. Texas had been
wrested from Mexico by the same foreign element
that was now invading California. Early in 1846,
Castro called a junta of his officers at Monterey.
This council issued a pronunciamento declaring hos
tility to the United States and the members pledged
themselves to defend the honor of the Mexican na
tion against the perfidious attacks of its rivals — the
North Americans. In this council. Pico had been
ignored and the hostile feelings between the political and military chiefs grew
more bitter. Pico had been appointed constitutional governor by President Her-
rera and, April i8th, 1846, in the presence of the territorial assembly and a large
concourse of people gathered at Los Angeles, he took the oath of office.
Castro and his associates were soon to be given an opportunity to test their
courage in the defence of Mexican honor against the attacks of the perfidious
North Americans. Lieutenant John C. Fremont, who had previously led two
expeditions through the Rocky mountains, Oregon and California, in January,
1846, arrived in California. His company numbered sixty-two men, scientists,
guides and servants. These he left encamped in the Tulare county, east of the
coast range, while he repaired to Monterey to secure some needed supplies and
to explain his presence. As the expedition was scientific in its object and Fre
mont expressed his intention of proceeding to Oregon as soon as his men were
rested and recruited, Castro made no objection to his remaining in California
during the winter. But when, a few weeks later, the whole force of men
marched into the Salinas valley, thev were ordered to leave the country at once.
LIEUT. JOHN C. FREMONT.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 63
Instead of leaving, Fremont marched his men to Gabilan Peak, about thirty
miles from Monterey, where he raised the stars and stripes and proceeded to
fortify his camp. Castro marshalled his force on the plains below out of range
of Fremont's men. After holding the fort on Gabilan Peak two days, Fremont,
on the night of March gth, abandoned it and leisurely proceeded northward by
way of the San Joaquin valley to Sutler's Fort and from there, after a short
stop, to Lassen's Rancho on Deer Creek, where he remained until April I4th.
He then resumed his march toward the Oregon line.
On May 5th, he was encamped near Klamath Lake when Samuel Neal
and William Sigler, two settlers of the Sacramento valley, rode into his camp
and informed him that a LTnited States officer, bearing dispatches, was endeav
oring to overtake him. The officer had but a small escort and the Indians being
hostile, he was in great danger. Fremont took nine of his men and the two mes
sengers and hurried to the relief of the officer. The parties met and encamped on
the bank of a creek. About midnight the Indians attacked the camp, killing three
of Fremont's men and losing their own chief. The dispatch bearer proved to
be Lieut. Archibald H. Gillespie, of the U. S. Navy. He had left Washington
in November, 1845, with instructions from the government; had crossed Mex
ico, disguised as a merchant, and from San Bias had taken passage to Hono
lulu and thence reached Monterey, April I7th. Fremont, with his entire force,
after punishing the Klamath Indians for their treachery, returned to Slitter's
Fort, where Lieut. Gillespie, who had gone ahead, met them with supplies pro
cured from San Francisco through Captain Montgomery of the Portsmouth.
The substance of the dispatches sent to Fremont from Secretary of State
Buchanan was to prevent the occupation of California by any European power
and in the event of war with Mexico to take possession of the country for the
United States. It was well known that England had designs on California and
it was partly to circumvent these and partly to warn Fremont that war with
Mexico was pending that the dispatches had been sent. The report that a large
immigration was on its way to California from the United States was, no doubt,
the cause of the hostility of the authorities to Fremont and to the recently
arrived immigrants. There were rumors that Castro was organizing a force to
drive the foreign settlers out of the country. Many Americans were in Cali
fornia without authority under the Mexican laws.
Believing themselves in danger and regarding Fremont as their protector,
a number of the settlers repaired to his camp. Their first aggressive act was
the capture of 250 horses that were being moved by Lieut, de Arce and four
teen men, from the north side of the bay to Castro's camp at Santa Clara. A
party of twelve Americans, under Ezekiel Merritt, captured the horses and made
prisoners of the escort, who were brought into Fremont's camp and there
released. Hostilities having been begun, it became necessary for the settlers to
64 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
widen the breach so as to provoke retaliation on the part of the Californians
rather than be punished as horse thieves. The next move was to seize the mil
itary post and the principal men of Sonoma. On the morning of June nth,
twenty men under command of Merritt, armed with pistols and rifles, and
mounted on fresh horses, set out from Fremont's camp on Bear Creek for
Sonoma. On the way their number was recruited to thirty-two. On the morn
ing of the I4th, about daybreak, they surrounded the town and took Gen. M.
G. Vallejo, Captain Salvador Yallejo, and Lieut. Col. Victor Prudon, prisoners.
There seem to have been no private soldiers at Sonoma — all officers. The cas-
tillo, or fort, contained about a dozen rusty old cannon and two hundred and
fifty muskets. Gen. Vallejo and his officers, as prisoners of war, gave their
word of honor not to take up arms against the revolutionists, on a guarantee
from their captain to respect the lives and property of the prisoners, their fam
ilies and the residents of the jurisdiction. This guarantee, signed by Merritt,
Semple, Fallon and Kelsey, was given in writing. The prisoners, although
given their parole, were taken to Sutler's Fort, by a guard. Twenty-four men
remained at the fort. The leaders of the party having gone with the prisoners,
W. B. Ide, who had come to the front on account of a speech he made advocat
ing a movement to make the country independent, was chosen commander.
Ide immediately set about formulating a declaration of independence, and
William Todd, one of his men, having procured a piece of manta, or coarse cot
ton cloth about two yards long, set to work to fashion a flag for the new repub
lic. Todd, assisted by some others, painted a star in the upper coiner and in
the center a figure supposed to represent a bear, but which the natives called
a " cochina " (pig). Below these figures he painted in large letters, "Califor
nia Republic.'.' Along the lower edge of the flag was stitched a strip of red
woolen cloth said to have been a part of a red woolen petticoat. When com
pleted the famous " Bear Flag " of California was run up on the flagstaff where
the Mexican colors had formerly floated. The cannon and muskets were loaded,
guards posted, military discipline established, and the California Republic duly
inaugurated. On June i8th, the same day that Ide issued his proclamation,
Thomas Cowie and George Fowler, two of Ide's men, volunteered to go to
Fitch's ranch to procure a keg of powder from Mose Carson. On the way they
were captured by a band of Californians under Juan Padilla and brutally mur
dered. The news of this outrage reached Sonoma and later a report that Todd,
who had been sent to Bodega with a message, had been captured. Captain W.
L. Ford, with a force of twenty-three men, hastily set out from Sonoma to cap
ture Padilla. At Olampali Rancho, Captain Ford unexpectedly came upon the
combined forces of Captain de la Torre and Padilla, numbering eighty-three
men. The Americans fell back into a willow thicket. The Californians, sup
posing that they were retreating, charged upon them but were met by a volley
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
65
of rifle balls that some reports say killed eight men. Todd, while the fight was
going on, made his escape and joined Ford's men, who fell back to Sonoma.
Fremont, who had been camped at the Buttes, having learned of Ide's
attempt to establish a Pacific Republic and that Castro would not attack them
to rescue the prisoners, but was gathering a force to recapture Sonoma, broke
up his camp and moved down to New Helvetia, where he put his prisoners in
the fort under guard.
On June 23rd, Fremont hastened to Sonoma with a force of seventy-two
mounted riflemen. The Americans, including Fremont's men, now numbered
two hundred. Fremont and Ford
with a force of 135 men, started out
to hunt Captain de la Torre, who was
in command of the Calif ornians north
of the bay. Torre, it is claimed,
wrote letters stating that Castro was
about to attack Sonoma with a large
force. These were placed in the
boots of three of his men, who al
lowed themselves to be captured.
The strategem succeeded — Fremont
and Ford hurried back to Sonoma, bttt
the three Californians were shot with
out trial. Authorities differ as to this
story. If such letters were captured,
they were not preserved, and it is
more than probable that the prisoners,
Berryessa and the two de 'Haro boys,
were shot in retaliation for the mur
der of Cowie and Fowler. Whether
from the captured letters, or from
some other source, Fremont believed that Castro's force was north of the bay.
Castro, however, had not left Santa Clara. Captain de la Torre, taking advantage
of the absence of his pursuers, crossed the bay at Sausalito and joined Castro.
Fremont finding himself deceived, returned to the pursuit, but he was too late —
the game had escaped and he marched back to Sonoma, where he arrived July 3rd.
The Fourth of July was celebrated with great eclat by the " Bears." Wine, gun
powder, eloquence and a grand ball stirred up all the latent patriotism of the
revolutionists. The " California Republic " reached the zenith of its power that
day. The next day it collapsed. Ide was deposed by a vote of the Bears and
Fremont was chosen to head the movement for independence.
On the Jth of July, Commodore Sloat raised the Stars and Stripes in Monte-
COMMODORE JXO. D. SLOAT.
66 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
rey and took possession of the country in the name of the United States. 'He
had arrived on the Savannah on the 2nd from Mazatlan, where he had heard
rumors of hostilities between the United States and Mexico; but not having
learned of any formal declaration of war, he was undecided what course to pursue.
Having heard of the Bear Flag movement and of Fremont's connection with it,
he presumed that Fremont had later information, and finally decided to take
possession of the country.
Fremont, on July 6th, leaving Captain Grigsby with fifty men at Sonoma,
started with the rest of his battalion, about 130 men, for Sacramento with the
intention of making preparations to attack Castro. Captain Montgomery of the
Portsmouth had raised the flag at San Francisco ; Lieut. Revere arrived at Sonoma
on the gth; the Bear flag was lowered and the Stars and Stripes unfurled. On
the nth the flag was raised over Slitter's Fort and the same day over Bodega.
All Northern and Central California was now in possession of the Americans.
For months there had been ill feeling between Governor Pico and the com-
mandante-general, Castro. Pico had made Los Angeles his capital, while Castro
had established his headquarters at Monterey. Their quarrel was the old sec
tional jealousy of the north and the south — and their respective sections supported
them in their dispute. Castro was accused of plotting to overthrow the govern
ment. At the time Sloat raised the United States flag at Monterey Pico, with
an armed body had reached Santa Barbara, intending to fight Castro, who was
at Santa Clara. With a part of his force, Castro retreated southward and joined
Pico. They patched up a truce and, uniting their forces, retreated to Los Angeles,
where they began preparations to resist the " perfidious North Americans."
CHAPTER VIII.
THE CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.
THE American era of California history begins with the raising of the
flag at Monterey on July 7th, 1846. Within a week after that event all
of the territory north of Monterey had been taken possession of without
opposition. Castro, with a part of his force, had retreated to Los Angeles,
and those remaining behind had disbanded and retired to their homes. Fremont
had moved his battalion of about 130 men to a camp on the American river
above Sutler's Fort. Here he was encamped when, on the nth of July, a mes
senger bearing Sloat's proclamation and an American flag reached him. This
flag was raised over the fort and saluted with twenty-one guns. Immediately
afterward Fremont's battalion began its march to Monterey, where it arrived
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
67
on the iqth. Fremont had an interview with Commodore Sloat which was not
very satisfactory to either. Sloat was inclined to blame Fremont for acting
without sufficient authority in precipitating hostilities and Fremont was disap
pointed because Sloat would not endorse his scheme of making a campaign
against Castro..
On the 1 5th of July Commodore Stockton, on the Congress, arrived at
Monterey from Honolulu and reported to Commodore Sloat for duty. Sloat
was an old man, having entered the
Navy in 1800; his health was fail
ing and he was anxious to retire
from active service. He made
Stockton commander-in-chief of all
the land forces in California.
Stockton on taking command, made
Fremont a major and Gillispie a
captain. On July 26th, the battal
ion was loaded on the Cyane, which
sailed the next day for San Diego.
Sloat, after transferring the com
mand of the Pacific squadron to
Stockton, sailed on July 2Qth, on
board the Levant for home.
Commodore Stockton, on as
suming command, issued a procla
mation in which he arraigned the
Mexican government for beginning
hostilities against the United States.
He was very severe on Gen. Cas
tro, whom he called a usurper,
and the Calif ornians for outrages committed on the American settlers.
' Three inoffensive Americans," said he, " residents of the country, have been
within a few days brutally murdered ; and there are no California officers who
will arrest and bring the murderers to justice, although it is well known who
they are and where they are." He ignored the brutal murder of the three Cali-
fornians, Berryessa and the two De Haro boys, who were shot down in cold
blood by Fremont's men while begging for quarter. Bancroft says of the proc
lamation, " The paper was made up of falsehood, of irrelevant issues and of
bombastic boasting in about equal parts." Commodore Sloat read the procla
mation at sea and did not approve of it.
Gen. Pico and Gen. Castro, on their arrival at Los Angeles, immediately
set to work to organize an army. Every man between fifteen and sixty was
summoned for military duty and any Mexican refusing or excusing himself on
COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON.
68 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
any pretext was to be treated as a traitor. Those physically unable to do mili
tary duty were required to aid with their property. The response to the call
of the leaders was not very enthusiastic ; sectional jealousies, quarrels and feuds
had destroyed, or at least, paralyzed patriotism. The foreign residents who
were mostly Americans, secretly sympathized with the invaders. Money and
the munitions of war were scarce. Castro had brought about 100 men with
him from the north and Pico had recruited about the same in the south ; these
constituted the available force to resist Stockton and Fremont. Stockton, with
360 sailors and marines, arrived at San Pedro on August 6th, landed and drilled
his force in military maneuvers. Castro sent a message by two commissioners,
Flores and de la Guerra, expressing his willingness to enter into negotiations
with Stockton. The commodore showed the messengers scant courtesy and
dismissed them with an " insulting threat." Castro and Pico finding it impos
sible to defend the capital with the small force at their command, determined to
quit the country. On the night of August loth they took their departure ; Castro
accompanied by his secretary, Francisco Arce, and eighteen men, going by way
of the San Gorgonio pass and the Colorado river ; Pico by way of San Juan
Capistrano and Santa Margarita, to Lower California.
Stockton began his march to Los Angeles on August iith. On the 13111
Major Fremont, with his battalion of 130 mounted men, met him just outside
the town and the combined forces entered the capital. The United States flag
was raised and possession taken of the town. The reception of the Americans
was not cordial. Some of the better class of citizens had fled from the city,
but these in a few days returned to their homes. Fremont's cavalry scoured the
country and brought in a number of the leading men who had held civil or
military office; these were paroled. Stockton, on the I7th, published a much
milder proclamation in which he announced himself as commander-in-chief and
governor of the territory ; he stated that California belonged to the United States
and would be governed by military law until a civil government could be estab
lished. Captain Gillispie was commissioned by Stockton as commandant of the
southern department with headquarters at Los Angeles. He was assigned a
garrison of fifty men taken from Fremont's force. On September 29th, Com
modore Stockton, with his sailors and marines, returned to their ships at San
Pedro and sailed for Monterey. ' A few days later Fremont, with the remainder
of his battalion, began his march northward for Sutler's fort, where he expected
to recruit his force from the immigrants now arriving in the country.
While the combined forces of Stockton and Fremont, numbering about 500
men, had occupied the town, the inhabitants had been quiet and submissive.
But with a small force left to keep them in subjection, they soon began to mani
fest their old turbulent and revolutionary disposition. September i6th, the anni
versary of Mexican independence, a number of young men, under the stimulation
of wine, and probably more in a spirit of mischief than with any serious intent,
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 69
/
made an attack about midnight on Gillispie's headquarters, which were in the
old government house. The garrison drove them off with a volley of musketry,
in which three men were killed — so Gillispie reported — but the dead were never
found. The next day Gillispie ordered the arrest of a number of leading citi
zens to be held as hostages. He also vigorously enforced military law. In a
very short time he had a full-grown Mexican revolution on his hands. Some
300 men, under the leadership of Flores and Serbulo Vareles, besieged his garri
son. In the corral of the government house were five or six old cannon that
Castro had spiked and abandoned. Gillispie had two of these unspiked and
hauled up Fort Hill, where they were mounted. He made cannon balls out of
some lead pipe that he found and cartridge covers out of a piece of red flannel
captured from a store. The Californians had a brass four-pounder, known as
" the Old Woman's gun " because, on the approach of Stockton's army, an old
woman by the name of Rocha had buried the gun in her garden ; it had been
used in firing salutes at church festivals, and the old lady declared that the
" gringos " should not have the gun of the church.
While besieged on Fort Hill, Gillispie on September 24th, sent a messenger,
Juan Flaco (lean John) with dispatches to Stockton asking aid. By one of the
most wonderful rides in history, this man, John Brown, reached San Francisco
where Stockton had gone from Monterey, six hundred miles distance, in five
days. Stockton at once ordered Mervine, commanding the Savannah, to go to
the relief of Gillispie. On account of a dense fog, the vessel did not leave San
Francisco until October 4th. Gillispie held out bravely for seven days, then
capitulated, with honorable terms. On September 3Oth, with flags flying, drums
beating and his two old cannon mounted on carretas, he began his march to San
Pedro. He spiked the two old cannon and threw them in the bay, then went on
board the Vandalia. a merchant ship lying at anchor in the harbor, but did not
leave San Pedro. On October yth, Mervine entered the harbor. At 6:30 a.m.
of the 8th, he landed a force of 299 men, which included Gillispie's volunteers.
A small force of the enemy appeared and Captain Mervine ordered Lieut. Hitch
cock, with a reinforcement of eighty men from the vessel, to attack; but the
enemy retreated and the detachment returned to the ship. Captain Mervine and
his men then started for the pueblo. They took no cannon and had no horses.
After a fatiguing tramp through tall mustard and clouds of dust they encamped
at the Dominguez rancho. The enemy, under the command of Jose Antonio
Carrillo, and numbering abort eighty men, appeared on the foothills and some
skirmishing at long range took place. During the night, Flores arrived from
the pueblo with a reinforcement of about sixty men and the " old woman's " gun.
They opened fire during the night on Mervine's camp with this cannon, but did
no damage. The next morning Mervine's men resumed their march and had
not proceeded far before they encountered the enemy. The Californians opened
fire and Mervine, fearing a charge from their cavalry, formed his troops in a
70 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
hollow square with their baggage in the center. A running fight ensued ; the
Californians firing, then dragging the gun back with riatas. loading, and firing
again. Mervine, finding he was losing men without injuring the enemy, ordered
a retreat. The Californians fired a parting shot or two, but did not pursue the
Americans, as they had exhausted their ammunition. Mervine reached San
Pedro that evening and went aboard his vessel. His loss was four killed and
six wounded. The dead were buried on the Isla de los Muertes, or Deadman's
island. The Savannah remained in the harbor and the Californians kept a small
detachment at Sepulveda's ranch and another at Cerritos to watch the Americans.
On the 25th Commodore Stockton arrived at San Pedro on the Congress
and remained there about a week. Although he had a force of nearly 800 men,
he did not deem this sufficient to recapture the capital, as he greatly overestimated
the strength of the enemy. On November ist he sailed for San Diego. At
the time of Flores' attack on Gillispie the American garrisons at San Diego and
Santa Barbara were driven out of these towns. The force at San Diego went
aboard the Stonington, a whale ship lying in the harbor. Lieut. Talbot with
ten men was stationed at Santa Barbara. When called upon to surrender, this
party fell back into the hills and reached the head of the San Joaquin river,
where they obtained food from the Indians ; then traveled down the valley, sub
sisting on the flesh of wild horses and finally, by way of Pacheco's pass, they
crossed over to the coast and joined Fremont's battalion at Monterey.
The departmental assembly, having been called together by Flores, met at
Los Angeles, October 26th. The members were all from the south. The first
business in order was to fill the offices of governor and commandante-general
left vacant by the flight of Pico and Castro. It was decided to combine the two
offices in one person and Jose Maria Flores was chosen commander-in-chief and
governor ad interim. He took the oath of office November ist and was really
the last Mexican governor of California. Flores and the members of the as
sembly made some provisions for continuing the war, but their resources were
very limited. Their recent successes over the Americans hid somewhat encour
aged them and they hoped to be able to hold out until reinforcements arrived
from Mexico.
Stockton, on his arrival at San Diego, had set to work to organize an expe
dition against Los Angeles. The Californians had driven the cattle and horses
back into the mountains and the Americans found great difficulty in procuring
animals. Frequent forays were made into Lower California and horses, cattle
and sheep procured. The remnant of Fremont's battalion, after taking from
it garrisons for San Diego, Los Angeles and Santa Barbara, had returned to the
Sacramento valley in September. Here it was recruited to 160 men, and on
October I3th sailed from San Francisco on a merchant vessel, with orders to
operate against the rebels in the south ; but between Monterey and Santa Barbara
they met the Vandalia and learned of Mervine's defeat, and of the impossibility
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
71
of procuring horses in the lower country. They put about and the battalion
landed at Monterey October 28th. Vigorous efforts were at once made to recruit
men and horses. A number of immigrants had arrived from the states. These
were induced to enlist on the promise of $25 per month pay. Horses were pur
chased, or where owners refused to sell, were confiscated. A company of Walla
Walla Indians was enlisted — these were known as the " Forty Thieves." Sut-
ter's "warriors in bronze" (Indians) were also enrolled for service. In the
latter part of November, the recruits were collected at San Juan. They num
bered about 450 riflemen and 40 artillerymen, representing many nations and
many different kinds of arms, and were divided into ten companies. Fremont
had been commissioned as lieutenant-colonel in the
regular army and was commander-in-chief of the
battalion. While Fremont's officers and men were
engaged in collecting horses, an engagement took
place between a detachment numbering about 60
men, under Captains Burroughs and Thompson, and
the Ca'.ifornians under Manuel Castro, who had
been made commandant of the Californian forces in
the north. The Americans had gathered several
hundred horses and were taking them to the camp
at San Juan. The advance guard, consisting of
eight scouts, encountered the Californians near Na-
tividad. They posted themselves in an "encinalito"',
or grove of little oaks, and a fight ensued. The
main body of the Americans coming up, a reckless
charge was made. Captain Burroughs and four or
five others were killed and five or six were wounded.
The Californians lost about the same number ; the result was a drawn battle.
The American consul, Thomas O. Larkin, had started for San Francisco
and had stopped at Gomez's ranch overnight. A squad of Californians, under
Lieut. Chavez, surrounded the house about midnight and made him prisoner; he
was held until the close of the war. The only other engagement in the north
was the so-called " Battle of Santa Clara ", which took place between a force
of about TOO Americans under Captains Weber, Marston and Aram, and an
equal number of Californians under Francisco Sanchez. Fighting was at long
range with artillery and so far as known there were no fatalities on either side.
In the south the garrison at San Diego, after it had remained on the Stoning-
ton about ten days, stole a march on the Californians by landing at night and
recapturing the town and one piece of artillery. A whaleboat was sent up to
San Pedro with dispatches and an earnest request for reinforcements. It reached
San Pedro October I3th. Lieut. Miner and Midshipmen Duvall and Morgan,
with 35 sailors of Mervine's force and 15 of Gillispie's volunteers, were sent to
HON. THOMAS O. LARKIN.
72 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
reinforce Merritt at San Diego. This force upon arrival set to work to build
a fort and mount the cannon taken from the old presidio. Although continually
harassed by the Californians, they succeeded in this.
About the first of November, Commodore Stockton arrived at San Diego.
He began fortifications on the hill and built a fort out of casks filled with earth,
on which he mounted guns. The whole work was completed in three weeks.
Provisions ran short and frequent forays were made into the surrounding country
for supplies. 'About December ist word reached Stockton that Gen. Kearney
with 100 dragoons was at Warner's pass, about eighty miles from San Diego.
Stockton sent a force of fifty men and one piece of artillery, under Captain Gil-
lispie to conduct this force to San Diego. On their return march the entire force
was surprised, on the morning of December 6th, by about 90 Californians under
Captain Andres Pico, near the Indian village of San Pasqual. Pico had been
sent into that part of the country to intercept and capture squads of Americans
sent out after horses and cattle. The meeting was a surprise on both sides.
The Americans foolishly charged the Californians and in doing so became strung
out in a long irregular line. The Californians rallied and charged in turn. The
Americans lost in killed, Captains Johnston and Moore, Lieut. Hammond and
sixteen dragoons ; Captains Gillispie and Gibson and seventeen dragoons were
wounded. The Californians escaped with three men slightly wounded. Three
of Kearney's wounded died, making the total American death list twenty-one.
Less than one-half of Kearney's force were engaged in the battle.
After the engagement, Kearney took position on a barren hill, covered with
rocks. The enemy made no attack, but remained in the neighborhood and
awaited a favorable opportunity to renew the assault. The night after the attack,
Lieut. Godey, Midshipman Beale and Kit Carson managed to pass through the
pickets of the enemy and eventually — by different routes — reached San Diego
with the news of the disaster. On December gth detachments of sailors and
marines, numbering in all about 200, from the Congress and the Portsmouth and
under the immediate command of Captain Zielin, began a march to relieve Gen.
Kearney. They marched at night and camped in the chapparal by day. Early
in the morning after the second night they reached Kearney's camp, taking him
by surprise. Godey, who had been sent ahead to inform Kearney of the relief,
had been captured by the Californians. Gen. Kearney had destroyed all of his
baggage and camp equipage, saddles, bridles, clothing, etc., preparatory to forcing
his way through the enemy's lines. But the enemy disappeared on the arrival
of reinforcements, and Gen. Kearney and the relief expedition reached San Diego
after a march of two days.
It is necessary to explain how Gen. Kearney came to be in California with
so small a force. In June, 1846, Gen. Stephen W. Kearney, commander of the
Army of the West, left Fort Leavenworth with a force of regulars and volun
teers to take possession of New Mexico. The conquest of that territory was
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 73
accomplished without a battle. Under orders from the War Department, Kear
ney began his march to California with a part of his force, in order to co-operate
with the naval force already there. Near Socorro, New Mexico, October i6th,
he met Kit Carson with an escort of fifteen men, en route from Los Angeles to
Washington with dispatches from Commodore Stockton, giving a report of the
conquest of California. Gen. Kearney selected 120 men from his force, sent the
remainder back to Santa Fe, and compelled Carson to turn back as his guide.
After a toilsome journey across the arid plains of Arizona and the Colorado
desert, they reached the Indian village where the engagement took place, desti
tute of provisions and with men and horses worn out.
Stockton had been actively pushing preparations for his expedition against
Los Angeles. His force now numbered 600 men, mostly sailors and marines ;
but he had been drilling them in military evolutions on land. On the iQth of
December this army started on its march for the capital. Gen. Kearney was
made second in command. The baggage and artillery was hauled on carretas,
but the oxen being ill-fed and unused to long journeys, gave out on the way and
the marines had to assist in dragging the carts. Near San Juan Capistrano, a
commission, bearing a flag of truce, met Stockton with proposals from Gov.
Flores, asking for a conference.' Stockton replied that he knew no " Gov.
Flores ", that he (Stockton) was governor of California. "He knew a rebel
by the name of Flores and if the people of California would give him up, he
would treat with them." The embassy replied that they preferred death to sur
render under such terms. On January 8th, 1847, Stockton's army encountered
the Californians at El Paso de Bartolo on the San Gabriel river and a battle was
fought. The Californians had planted four pieces of artillery on the bluff above
the river with the design of preventing the Americans from crossing. In the
face of the artillery fire, the Americans crossed the river, dragging with them
through the quicksands two nine-pounders and four smaller guns. They placed
their guns on a battery on the river bank and opened fire on the Californians
with such telling effect that one of their guns was disabled and the gunners were
driven away from the others. The California cavalry made a charge on the
rear, but were repulsed by Gillispie's riflemen. The Americans charged the Cali-
fornian center, advanced their artillery in battery. The enemy was driven from
the heights, but succeeded in taking their artillery with them. The battle lasted
about one and a half hours, the Americans losing two killed and eight wounded.
The loss of trie Californians was about the same. The Americans encamped on
the battlefield while the Californians fell back toward the city and camped in
plain view of their opponents ; but they moved their camp during the night.
Stockton resumed his march on the morning of the 9th, moving in a north
westerly direction across the plains. The Californians had posted themselves in
Canada de los Alisos (Canyon of Sycamores) near the main road. As the Amer
ican column appeared they opened fire with their artillery at long range, and
74 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
continued it for several hours. Finally the Californians, concentrating all their
efforts into one grand charge, dashed down upon the American column. A volley
from the rifles of Stockton's men checked their advance, and turning, they fled
in every direction, leaving a number of their horses dead upon the field. The
" Battle of the Plains ", as Stockton calls it, was over. The loss on the American
side was five wounded; on the other side one man was killed and an unknown
number wounded. Stockton's force numbered about 600 men, but not all of
them took part in the engagement. The Californians had about 300. The small
loss on the American side was due to the inefficient weapons with which the
Californians were armed and to the poor quality of their home-made gun powder,
manufactured at San Gabriel. The small loss of the Californians was due to
the long range at which most of the fighting was done and to the execrable
marksmanship of Stockton's sailors and marines. After the battle, Stockton
continued his march and crossed the river below the city, where he encamped
on the right bank.
On the morning of the loth, as he was about to resume his march, a flag
of truce, borne by De Cells and Alvarado, Californians, and Wm. Workman, an
Englishman, came into camp. The commissioners offered the peaceful surrender
of the city on condition that the Americans should respect the rights of property
and protect citizens. The terms were agreed to and Stockton's army marched
into the city. The Americans met with no hostile demonstrations, but it was
very evident that they were not welcome visitors. The better class of the native
inhabitants closed their houses and took refuge with friendly foreigners or retired
to ranches in the country ; the fellows of the lower class exhausted their vocabu
laries against the " gringoes." Flores, after the " Battle of La Mesa ", retreated
up the Arroyo Seco to the San Pasqual ranch, where he established his camp.
Stockton, not 'aware of the location of the enemy and fear.ful of an attack, deter
mined to fortify the town. On the nth, Lieut. Emory of Kearney's staff sketched
the plan of a fort; on the I2th, the site was selected on what is now Fort Hill,
and work was begun and continued on the I5th and i6th.
We left Fremont's battalion on its march down the coast from Monterey.
The rains set in early and were heavy ; the roads were almost impassable and the
men suffered from the inclemency of the weather and from lack of supplies.
The horses nearly all died and part of the artillery had to be abandoned. On
January nth the battalion reached San Fernando valley, where Fremont received
a note from Gen. Kearney informing him of defeat of the Californians and the
capture of the city. The battalion advanced and occupied the mission buildings.
Jesus Pico had been arrested near San Luis Obispo, having broken his parole.
He was tried by court-martial and sentenced to be shot ; but Fremont pardoned
him and he became in consequence a most devoted friend. He now volunteered
to find the California!! army and induce them to surrender to Fremont. He
found a part of the force encamped at Verdugo and urged Flores, who in response
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
75
to a message had come from the main camp at San Pasqual, to capitulate to
Fremont, claiming that better terms could be secured from the latter than from
Stockton. A council was held and the Californians decided to appeal to Fremont,
but Flores resolved to quit the country and started that same night for Sonora.
Before leaving he transferred the command of the army to Gen. Andres Pico.
Gen. Pico, on assuming command, appointed Francisco Rico and Francisco
de la Guerra to go with Jesus Pico and confer with Col. Fremont. Fremont
appointed as commissioners to negotiate a treaty, Major P. B. Reading, Major
W. H. Russell and Captain Louis McLane. On the return of Rico and de la
Guerra to the California camp, Gen. Pico
appointed as commissioners Jose Anto
nio Carrillo and Augustin Olvera and
then moved his army to a point near the
river at Cahuenga. On the I3th, Fre
mont moved his camp from San Fer
nando to Cahuenga. The commission
ers met in a deserted ranch house at that
place and the treaty, or capitulation, of
Cahuenga was drawn up and signed.
The principal stipulations of the treaty
\vere that the Californians should sur
render their arms and agree to conform
to the laws of the United States. They
were to be given the same privileges as
citizens of the United States and were
not to be required to take an oath of al
legiance until a treaty of peace was
signed between the United States and
Mexico. General Pico surrendered two
pieces of artillery and a few muskets
and disbanded his men.
On January I4th, Fremont's battalion marched through the Cahuenga pass
and entered Los Angeles, four days after its surrender to Stockton. Commodore
Stockton approved the treaty, although it was not altogether satisfactory to him.
and on the i6th he appointed Col. Fremont governor of the territory. Gen.
Kearney claimed that under his instructions from the War Department, he should
be recognized as governor. For some time there had been ill feeling between
Stockton and Kearney. This precipitated a quarrel. Gen. Kearney and his
dragoons left Los Angeles on the i8th for San Diego and on the 2Oth Commo
dore Stockton and his sailors and marines left the city for San Pedro, where
they embarked on a man-of-war to rejoin their ships at San Diego. Stockton
was shortly after this superseded in the command of the Pacific squadron by
GEN. ANDRES PICO.
76 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
Commodore Shubrick. Col. Fremont was left in command at Los Angeles.
Col. P. St. George Cooke arrived on January 27th, with his Mormon battalion,
at San Luis Rey. This force consisted of five companies of Mormons who, after
a long march by way of New Mexico and Arizona had reached California too
late to assist in its conquest. From San Diego, Gen. Kearney sailed to San
Francisco and from there went to Monterey, where he established his governor
ship. California now had a governor in the north and one in the south. Col.
Cooke was appointed military commander of the south and brought his Mormon
troops to Los Angeles. Fremont's battalion was mustered out and he was or
dered to report to Gen. Kearney at Monterey. He did so and passed out of
office after a nominal service of two months. Gen. Kearney turned over the
command of the troops in California to Col. R. B. Mason, who became military
governor of the territory.
The First New York Infantry had been recruited in Eastern New York in
the summer of 1846 for the double purpose of conquest and colonization. It
came to the coast well supplied with provisions and with implements of hus
bandry. On its arrival November 6th, 1847, the regiment was divided up and
sent to different places on guard duty. Two companies, A. and B., under Lieut. -
Col. Burton, were sent to Lower California, where they saw some hard service
and took part in several engagements. Col. Cooke resigned his position as com
mandant of the south and Col. J. D. Stevenson of the New York Volunteers
was assigned to the command. The Mormon battalion was mustered out in
July and Companies E. and G. of the New York Volunteers and a company of
United States dragoons did guard duty at Los Angeles. Another military or
ganization that reached California after the conquest was Company F of the Third
United States Artillery. It landed at Monterey, January 27th, 1847, under com
mand of Captain C. Q. Thompkins. With it came Lieut. E. G. C. Ord. William
T. Sherman and H. W. Halleck, all of whom were prominent afterward in Cali
fornia and attained national reputation during the civil war.
During 1847-48 until the treaty of peace between the United States and
Mexico was proclaimed, garrisons were kept in all of the principal towns and the
government of the territory was quasi-military. Attempts were made to estab
lish municipal governments in the towns, which were successful in the north ;
but in Los Angeles there was some clashing between Col. Stevenson and the
" hijos del pais." There were rumors of uprisings and of Mexican troops on
the way to recapture the place. Col. Stevenson completed the fort on the hill,
begun by Lieut. Emory, and named it Fort Moore. There were no hostile acts
by the citizens and the asperities of war were soon forgotten, as the natives became
reconciled to the situation.
The treaty of Guadalupc Hidalgo was concluded on February 2nd, 1848.
It was ratified at Washington March loth ; at Querataro May 3Oth, and was pro
claimed by the President of the United States July 4th. The news reached Cali-
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 77
fornia August 6th and was proclaimed next day by Gov. Mason. The war was
over and California had now become a territory of the United States. Gov.
Pio Pico returned to California from Mexico in August, 1847. Col. Stevenson,
fearing that lie might incite rebellion, placed him under arrest, but he was soon
convinced that Pico's intentions were harmless and gave him his liberty.
A large overland immigration from the United States arrived in California
in 1846 and 1847. The Donner party, made up principally of immigrants from
Illinois, were caught in the snows of the Sierra Nevada in October, 1848, and
wintered at a lake since known as Donner 's Lake. Of the original party, num
bering eighty-seven, thirty-nine perished of starvation and exposure ; the remain
der were brought to Sutler's Fort by rescuing parties sent out from California.
CHAPTER IX.
TRANSITION FROM A CONQUERED TERRITORY TO A FREE STATE.
WHILE the treaty negotiations were pending between the United States
and Mexico, an event occurred in California that ultimately changed
the destinies of the territory. This was the discovery of gold, January
24th, 1848. at what is now known as Coloma, on the American river, in the foot
hills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, about thirty-five miles above Sutler's Fort.
Gold had previously been discovered on the San Francisquito Rancho, about forty-
five miles northwesterly from Los Angeles, in the spring of 1841. Placers had
been worked here, principally by Sonoran miners, up to the breaking out of
the Mexican war. But the gold fields were of limited extent, water was scarce,
the methods of mining crude and wasteful and this discovery created little ex
citement. Both discoveries were purely accidental. The first discoverer, Lopez,
was hunting for stray horses. While resting under an oak tree and amusing
himself by digging wild onions with his sheath knife, he turned up a nugget
of gold. He made known his discovery and a number of persons came from
Santa Barbara and Los Angeles to work in these placers. John W. Marshall,
who made the second discovery, was engaged in building a sawmill for Captain
Sutter, proprietor of Slitter's Fort and owner of an extensive grant at the junction
of the American and Sacramento rivers. Marshall, to deepen the race, turned
a head of water through it. The next morning while examining the effect of
the water, he picked up in the race a round piece of yellow metal, which he
thought might be gold. Searching further he found several of these nuggets.
He went to the fort to notify Sutter of his discovery. Sutter tested the metal
with aqua fortis, pronounced it gold, and returned with Marshall to the mill to
78 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
make further investigations. The men working on the mill had discovered the
nature of the metal and had also been collecting it. Sutter found several nuggets
and before leaving the mill exacted a promise from the men to keep the discovery
a secret for six weeks. Beside the sawmill he was building a large flouring mill
near the fort and he feared all of his men would desert for the mines. But the
secret could not be kept. Mrs. Wimmer, who did the cooking for the men at
the mill, told a teamster and he told the men at the fort. The news spread slowly
at first and there were many who would not believe the report. It was three
months before the rush began. Kemble, the editor of the California Star, visited
the mines two months after their discovery and upon his return to San Francisco
pronounced them a sham and advised people to stay away. During April con
siderable quantities of gold were received in San Francisco and the excitement
became intense. The city had been building up rapidly since the conquest ; but
now the rush to the mines almost depopulated it. Houses were left tenantless,
business was suspended, ships were left in the bay without sailors, soldiers de
serted from the forts and rancheros left their grain unharvested.
The news did not spread abroad in time to bring many gold-seekers into
California during 1848. In the spring of 1849, tne great rush from the outside
world began — both by land and by sea. Gold had now been discovered over
an area of more than two hundred miles and new fields were constantly being
opened. San Francisco, which was the great entrepot for commerce and travel
by sea, grew with astonishing rapidity. At the time of the discovery of gold the
population of San Francisco was about 800 and the white population of California
about 6000. At the close of 1849 the population of the territory numbered one
hundred thousand, four-fifths of which had reached it in that one year. During
1848 Slitter's Fort was the great distributing point for the mines. Sacramento
was laid out in 1849 anc' soon became the chief commercial city of the interior.
At the end of the year its population had reached $000.
California, in 1848, was still held as a conquered country. The Mexican
laws were in force and the government was half civil and half military. The
rapid influx of population brought complications. After the treaty was pro
claimed in California, August 7th, 1848, Cov. Mason promulgated a code of laws
that were intended to tide over affairs until a territorial government could be
established by Congress. It was not satisfactory to Americans. Gov. Mason
was a faithful and conscientious military officer with but little knowledge of civil
affairs. He did the best he could under the circumstances, but he was able to
exercise very little authority, either civil or military. His soldiers deserted to
the gold fields and the municipal governments were anomalous affairs, generally
recognizing no authority above themselves. Having been in the military service
for thirty years, he asked to be relieved. April I2th, 1849, Brigadier-General
Bennett K. Riley arrived at Monterey and the next day entered upon the duties
of his office as governor. Brig.-Gen. Persifer F. Smith was made military com-
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
79
mander of the United States troops on the Pacific coast. Most of the troops
he brought with him deserted at the first opportunity after their arrival
A year had passed since the treaty of peace was signed, but Congress had
done nothing for California. The pro-slavery element in that body was deter
mined to fasten the curse of slavery on a portion of the territory acquired from
Mexico and all legislation was at a standstill. The people were becoming restive
under the mixed military and civil government. The question of calling a con
vention to form a state constitution had been agitated for some time. Conform
ing to the expressed wish of many leading men of the territory, Governor Riley
called an election August ist, 1849, to elect delegates to form a state constitution,
or a territorial government, if that should seen best, and to elect judges, prefects
and alcaldes for the principal municipal districts. The convention was to consist
of thirty-seven delegates,
but forty-eight were
elected, and when it met
at Monterey, September
ist, 1849, m Colton Hall,
this number was seated.
Colton Hall was a stone
building erected by Al
calde Walter Colton for a
town hall and school-
house. The money to
build it was derived
partly from fines and
partly from subscription?
and the greater part of the construction work was done by prisoners. It was at
that time the most commodious public building in the territory.
Of the forty-eight delegates, twenty-two were from the northern states,
fifteen from the slave states, four were of foreign birth and seven were native
Californians. Several of the latter neither spoke nor understood English and
Wm. E. P. Hartnell was appointed interpreter. Dr. Robert Semple of Bear Flag
fame was elected president ; Wm. G. Marcy secretary, and J. Ross Browne re
porter. Early in the session the slavery question was disposed of by adopting
a section declaring that " neither slavery nor involuntary servitude, unless for
the punishment of crimes, shall ever be tolerated in this state." The question
of fixing the boundaries of the future state excited the most discussion. The
pro-slavery faction was led by Wm. M. Gwin, who had recently come to the
territory with the avowed intention of representing the new state in the United
States senate. The scheme of Gwin and his southern associates was to make
the Rockv mountains the eastern boundary. This would create a state with an
COLTOX HALL. MONTEREY.
80
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
"*-,-..
area of about four hundred thousand square miles. They reasoned that when
the admission of the state came before Congress the southern members would
oppose the admission of so large a territory under a free state constitution and
that ultimately a compromise would be affected. California would be split in
two from east to west, the old dividing line, the parallel of 36° 30" would be
established, and Southern California would come into the Union as a slave state.
There were, at this time, fifteen free and fifteen slave states. If two states, one
free and one slave, were made out of California territory, the equilibrium would
be preserved. The Rocky mountain boundary was adopted at one time, but in
the closing days of the session the free state men discovered Gwin's scheme
and it was defeated. The present boundaries were established by a majority
of two.
A committee had been appointed to receive propositions and designs for a
state seal. But one design was received, presented by Caleb Lyon, but drawn
by Robert S. Garnett. It contained a figure of
Minerva: a grizzly bear feeding on a bunch of
grapes ; a miner with his gold rocker and pan ; a
view of the Golden Gate with ships in the bay and
])c;iks of the Sierra Nevada in the distance ; thirty-
one stars and above all the word " Eureka." The
convention adopted the design as presented. The
constitution was completed on October loth and an
election was called by Gov. Riley for November
1 3th, to ratify the constitution, elect state officers,
a legislature and members of Congress. At the
election Peter H. Burnett was chosen governor ;
John McDougall, lieutenant-governor ; George W.
Wright and Edward Gilbert, members of congress.
During the session of the legislature, Wm. M. Gwin
and John C. Fremont were elected to the United
States Senate.
San Jose had been designated as the state capital. On December I5th the
state government was inaugurated there. The legislature consisted of sixteen
senators and thirty-six assemblymen. On the 22nd the legislature elected the
remaining state officers, viz.: Richard Roman, treasurer; John S. Houston, con
troller ; E. J. C. Kewen, attorney-general ; Charles J. Whiting, surveyor-general ;
S. C. Hastings, chief justice; Henry A. Lyons and Nathaniel Bennett, associate
justices. The legislature continued in session until April 22nd, 1850. Although
this law-making body was named the '' Legislature of a thousand drinks ", it did
a vast amount of work and did most of it well. It divided the state into twenty-
seven counties and provided for county government. It also provided for the
HON. WM. M. GWIN.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
81
incorporation of cities and towns ; passed revenue and other necessary laws, both
civil and criminal.
California was a self constituted state. It had organized a state government
and put it into operation without the sanction of Congress. It had not been ad
mitted into the union and it actually enjoyed the privileges of statehood for nine
months before it was admitted. When the question of admission came before
congress it evoked a bitter controversy. The senate was equally divided — thirty
members from slave states and thirty from the free states. There were among
the southern senators some broad-
minded men, but there were many
extremists on the subject of slavery —
men who would sacrifice their coun
try in order to extend and per
petuate that sum of all villainies —
slavery. This faction resorted to
every known parliamentary device
to prevent the admission of Cali
fornia under a free state constitu
tion. On August 1 3th the bill for
admission finally came to a vote ; it
passed the senate — thirty- four ayes
to eighteen nays. Even then the
opposition did not cease. Ten of
the southern extremists joined in a
protest against the action of the
majority. In the house the bill
passed by a vote of one hundred and
fifty to fifty-six. It was approved
and signed by President Fillmore
September 9th, 1850. On the nth of September the California senators and
congressmen presented themselves to be sworn in. The southern faction of the
senate, headed by Jefferson Davis, who had been one of the most bitter opponents
to admission, objected. But their protest came too late.
The news of the admission of California as a state reached San Francisco
on the morning of October i8th, by the mail steamer Oregon. Business was at
once suspended, courts adjourned and the people went wild with delight. Mes
sengers mounted on fleet horses spread the news through the state. Everywhere
there was rejoicing. For ten months the state government had been in full oper
ation ; its acts were now legalized and it continued in power without change or
HON. PETER H. BURNETT,
First Constitutional Governor of California.
82
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
interruption under the officers elected in 1849 for two years. The first state
election after admission was held in October, 1851. John Bigler was elected
governor.
CELEBRATION OF ADMISSION OP CALIFORNIA INTO THE UNION. CORNER OF CLAY AND
KEARNEY STREETS, SAN FRANCISCO— 1850.
CHAPTER X.
VIGILANCE COMMITTEES. GROWTH AND PROSPERITY.
THE tales of the fabulous richness of the California gold fields were spread
throughout the civilized world and drew to the state all classes and
and conditions of men — the bad as well as the good. They came from
Europe, from South America and from Mexico ; from far Australia and Tas
mania came the ex-convict and the " ticket-of-leave " man ; and from Asia came
the " Chinee." In 1851 the criminal element became so dominant as to seri
ously threaten the existence of the chief city of the state — San Francisco. Ter
rible conflagrations swept over the city that year and destroyed the greater part
of the business portion. The fires were known to be of incendiary origin.
The bold and defiant attitude of the lawless classes led to the organization of
the better element into a tribunal known as the " Vigilance Committee," which
disregarded the legally constituted authorities, who were either too weak or too
corrupt to control the law-defying element and took the power in its own hands.
It tried and executed, by hanging, four notorious criminals — Jenkins, Stuart,
Whitaker and McKenzie. Such vigorous measures adopted by the Committee
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 83
soon purified the city from the worst class that preyed upon it. Several of the
smaller towns and some of the mining camps also formed " vigilance commit
tees " and a number of the rascals who had fled from San Francisco met a
deserved fate in these places.
During the early fifties the better elements in the population of San Fran
cisco were too much engrossed in the rushing business affairs of that period
of excitement, to give time or thought to political affairs and consequently the
government of the city gradually drifted into the hands of vicious and corrupt
men. Many of the city authorities had obtained their offices by fraud and bal
lot stuffing and instead of protecting the community against scoundrels, they
protected the scoundrels against the community. James King, an ex-banker
and a man of great courage and persistence, started a small paper called the
Daily Evening Bulletin. He vigorously assailed the criminal elements and the
county and city officials. His denunciations at last aroused public sentiment.
The murder of United States Marshal Richardson by a gambler named Cora
further inflamed the public mind. It was feared that, by the connivance of the
county officials, Cora would escape punishment. The trial resulted in a hung
jury and there were strong suspicions that some of the jury had been bribed.
King continued through the Bulletin to hurl his most bitter invectives against
the corrupt officials. He published the fact that James Casey, a supervisor from
the twelfth ward, was an ex-convict from Sing Sing prison. Casey waylaid
King, May I4th, 1856, at the corner of Montgomery and Washington streets,
and in a cowardly manner shot him down. Casey immediately surrendered
himself to a deputy sheriff, Lafayette McByrne, who was near. King was not
killed outright, but the physicians, after an examination, pronounced the case
hopeless ; Casey was confined in the city jail and as a mob began to gather there,
he was taken to the county jail for greater safety. A crowd pursued him, cry
ing, " Hang him, kill him." At the jail the mob was stopped by an array of
deputy sheriffs, police officers and a number of Casey's personal friends — all
armed. The excitement spread throughout the city. The old Vigilance Com
mittee of 1851, or rather a new organization out of the remnants of the old one,
was formed. Five thousand men were enrolled within a few days, arms were
procured and headquarters secured on Sacramento street between Davis and
Front. William T. Coleman, chairman of the old vigilantes, was made the pres
ident and Isaac Bluxon, Jr., was the secretary; Chas. Doane was elected chief
marshal of the military division.
The San Francisco Herald, edited by John Nugent, then the leading paper
of the city, came out with a scathing editorial denouncing the vigilance commit
tee. The merchants at once withdrew advertising patronage. The next morn
ing the paper appeared reduced from forty columns to a single page, but still
hostile to the committee. It finally died from lack of patronage. Sunday, Mav
84 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
i8th, 1856, the military division was ready to storm the jail if necessary to
obtain possession of the prisoners, Casey and Cora. The different companies,
1500 strong and with two pieces of artillery marched from their headquarters
and completely invested the jail. One of these guns was planted to command
the door of the jail, and a demand was made on Sheriff Scannell for the pris
oners. The prison guards made no resistance ; the prisoners were surrendered
at once and taken to the headquarters of the vigilantes. On May 2Oth, while
the murderers were on trial the death of King was announced. Both men were
convicted and sentenced to be hanged. King's funeral, the largest and most
imposing ever seen in San Francisco, took place on the 23rd. While the
funeral cortege was passing through the streets, Casey and Cora were hanged
in front of the windows of the vigilantes' headquarters. About an hour before
his execution Cora was married to a notorious courtesan, Arabella Ryane, better
known as Bell Cora.
Governor J. Neely Johnson at first seemed inclined not to interfere with
the vigilance committee; but afterward, acting under the advice of Volney E.
Howard, David S. Terry and others of the dominant pro-slavery faction, he
issued a proclamation commanding the committee to disband — to which no
attention was paid. The governor then appointed William T. Sherman, major-
general. Sherman called for recruits to suppress the uprising. Seventy-five
or a hundred — mostly gamblers — responded. Gen. Wool, in command of the
troops in the Department of the Pacific, refused to loan Gov. Johnson arms to
equip his " Law and Order " recruits and Gen. Sherman resigned. Volney E.
Howard was then appointed major-general. A squad of the vigilance commit
tee was appointed to arrest a man named Maloney who was at the time in the
company of David S. Terrey (then chief justice of the state) and several other
members of the " Law and Order " party. They resisted the police and in the
melee Terrey stabbed the sergeant of the party, Sterling A. Hopkins, and then
he and his associates made their escape to the armory of the San Francisco
Blues, one of their strongholds. When the report of the stabbing reached
headquarters the great bell sounded the alarm and the vigilantes, in a very
short space of time, surrounded the armory and had their cannon planted to
batter it down ; Terrey, Maloney and the others of their party in the building,
considering discretion the better part of valor, surrendered and were at once
taken to Fort " Gunnybags," so known on account of a breastwork made of
gunnybags filled with sand which the vigilantes had placed about the building
used as headquarters. The arms of the " Law and Order " party at their
various rendezvous were surrenderd to the vigilantes and the companies
disbanded.
Terrey was closely confined in a cell at the headquarters of the committee.
He was tried for assault upon Hopkins, who finally recovered, and upon sev-
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 85
/
eral other parties and was found guilty ; but after he had been held a prisoner
for some time, he was released. He was forced to resign his office as chief
justice, however, and joined Johnson and Howard in Sacramento, where he felt
safer than in San Francisco.
On July 29th, Hethrington and Brace were hanged from a gallows erected
on Davis street between Sacramento and Commercial. Both of these men had
committed murder. The committee transported from the state some thirty dis
reputable characters and a number of others deported themselves. A few,
among them the notorious Ned McGowan, managed to keep concealed until
the storm was over. A few of the exiles returned after the committee was dis
banded and began suit for damages, but failed to secure anything. The com
mittee finished its labors and dissolved with a grand parade, August i8th, 1856,
after doing a most valuable work. For several years afterwards San Francisco
was one of the best governed cities in the United States. It is a noticeable fact
that the vigilance committee was largely made up of men from the northern
and western states, while the so-called " Law and order " party was composed
mostly of the pro-slavery, office-holding faction which then ruled the state. The
rush of gold-seekers to California in the early fifties had brought to the state
a certain class of adventurers — many of whom were too lazy or too proud to
work. They were ready to engage in almost any lawless undertaking that
promised plunder and adventure. The defeat of the pro-slavery politicians in
their attempt to fasten their "peculiar institution'' upon any part of the terri
tory acquired from Mexico made them very bitter. The more unscrupulous
among them began to look about for new fields over which slavery might be
spread. As slavery could only be made profitable in southern lands, Cuba,
Mexico and Central America became the arena for enacting that form of piracy
known as " filibustering." Although the armed invasion of countries with which
the United States was at peace was in direct violation of international laws,
yet the federal office-holders in the southern states and in California, all of
whom belonged to the pro-slavery element, made no attempt to prevent these
invasions, but instead secretly aided them, or at least sympathized with them
to the extent of allowing them to recruit men and depart without molestation.
One of the leading filibusters from California was a Tennesseean by the name
of Walker. His first attempt was against Lower California. He captured La
Paz and established what he called the Republic of Lower California and pro
claimed it slave territory. He and his army plundered and robbed wherever
there was anything to be obtained. The country was so poor and his army so
mutinous that he was compelled to abandon his so-called republic, after shoot
ing several of his dupes for desertion. After this he had a varied career as a
filibuster in Central America. He was captured in Honduras in 1860, court-
martialed and shot.
86
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
STATE CAPITALS.
As has been previously stated, the constitutional convention of 1849 met
in Colton Hall in Monterey. During its sessions the question of locating the
capital carrie up. San Jose offered to donate a square of thirty-two acres val
ued at $60,000 for capital grounds and give the free use of a building for meet
ings of the Legislature. The offer was accepted and the first Legislature con
vened there, December I5th, 1849. The first capital of the state was a two-
story adobe building, 40 by 60 feet, which had been built for a hotel. This
building was destroyed by fire April 29th, 1853. The accommodations at San
Jose were not satisfac
tory. The Legislature
next accepted a proposi
tion from Gen. M. G. Val-
lejo to locate the capital
at his new town of Val-
lejo. He offered to do
nate 156 acres of land for
a site and within two
years to give $370,000 in
money to be expended in
the erection of public
buildings. When the
members of the Legisla
ture met at the new cap
ital January 2nd, 1852,
they found a large, un
furnished and partly unfinished wooden building for their reception. Accommo
dations were very poor and even food was wanting for the hungry law
makers. Sacramento then offered its new court house as a meeting place and
on the i6th the Legislature convened in that city. The great flood of 1852
inundated the town and the lawmakers were forced to reach the halls of legis
lation in boats — again there was dissatisfaction.
Benicia now came to the front with the offer of her new city hall which
was assuredly above high water mark. Gen. Vallejo had become financially
embarrassed and could not carry out his contract, so it was annulled. The
offer of Benicia was accepted and on May i8th, 1853, that town was declared
the permanent capital.
In the Legislature of 1854 the capital question again came to the front.
Proposals were received from several aspiring cities, but Sacramento won with
the offer of her new court house and a block of land between I and J, Ninth
STATE CAPITOL. BENICIA.
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
87
and Tenth streets. Then the question of locating the capital got into the courts.
The supreme court decided in favor of Sacramento. Before the Legislature
met again the court house burned down. A more commodious one was at once
erected and rented to the state at $12,000 a year. Then Oakland made an
unsuccessful attempt to secure the capital. Finally a bill was passed author
izing the erection of a capitol building in Sacramento at a cost not to exceed
$500,000. Work was begun on the foundation in October, 1860. The great
flood of 1861-62 inundated the town and ruined the foundations of the capitol.
San Francisco made a vigorous effort to secure the seat of government, but
was not successful. Work was resumed on the building, the plans were changed,
the edifice enlarged and
finally after many delays
it was ready for occu
pancy in December, 1869.
From the original limit
of half a million dollars,
its cost when completed
had reached a million and
a half. The amount ex
pended on the building
and the grounds to date
is $2,972,925.
State Senator E. C.
Seymour, representing
Orange and San Bernar
dino counties in the Thir-
STATE CAPITOL. sACRAMENTTo. tietn and Thirty-first ses
sions, introduced a bill to remove the capital to San Jose. The bill passed, but
the scheme was defeated in the courts.
CIVIL WAR.
The Civil War (1861-65) did not seriously affect the prosperity of Cali
fornia. During its progress about 16,000 volunteers enlisted in the Union
Arm}-. Much to their disappointment these men were retained on the Pacific
coast to fight Indians and keep the disloyal element in check. One battalion
of five companies paid its own passage to the east and joined the Second Mass.
Cavalry in which it did splendid service in Virginia and Maryland. Quite a
number of Confederate sympathizers from California joined the Southern armies
during the war. Those who remained in the state were closely watched by
the federal authorities and were not able to render much assistance to their
friends of the South.
88 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
MINING.
Previous to 1860 the chief industry of the state was mining-. During the
decade between 1850 and 1860 a number of rushes were made to new diggings
reputed to be rich in the precious metals. The most famous of these were the
Kern river in 1855 and the Frazer river in 1857 — both ended in disaster to
those engaged in them. In 1859 the silver mines of Washoe were discovered
and a great rush made to these. The Comstock lodes were very rich and many
fortunes were made. Stock gambling became a mania in San Francisco in
which fortunes were lost.
CATTLE RAISING.
The southern part of the state was devoted to cattle raising which in the
early sixties was immensely profitable. The land was held in large ranches
and at the time of the discovery of gold was mostly owned by native Califor-
nians. The sudden influx of population consequent on the discovery of gold
greatly increased the value of the cattle and made the stock owners rich. With
wealth came extravagant habits and when the decline began they borrowed
money at usurious rates and the high interest ruined them. The terrible dry
years of 1863-64, when thousands of cattle starved to death, put an end to
cattle raising as the distinctive industry of the south. The decadence of cattle
growing brought about the subdivision of the large ranches and the develop
ment of grain growing and fruit culture. In the southern part of the state
the culture of citrus fruits — the orange and lemon — has become the leading
industry. In favorable localities in the central and northern sections of the state
the production of deciduous fruits — the apple, peach, prune, pear, etc., takes
precedence ; while the great valleys of the Sacramento and the San Joaquin
are vast wheat fields.
RAILROAD BUILDING.
Several schemes for the building of a trans-continental railroad were
promulgated in California during the fifties. The first railroad built in the
state was the Sacramento Valley road, which was completed to Folsom in Feb
ruary, 1856, and was twenty-two miles in length. The next was the road from
San Francisco to San Jose, fifty-one miles long, completed January i6th, 1864.
On June 28th, 1861, at Sacramento the Central Railroad of California was
organized, with Leland Stanford, president ; C. P. Huntington, vice-president ;
Mark Hopkins, treasurer ; James Baily, secretary ; and T. D. Judah, chief engi
neer. The capital stock of the company was fixed at $8,50x2,000. The whole
amount of stock subscribed by its promoters would not have built five miles of
road ; none of the men at that time connected with the road were rich and the
whole affair was regarded in the nature of a joke. On July 1st, 1862, the
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA 89
/
Pacific railroad bill was passed by Congress, authorizing the issuance of gov
ernment bonds to the amount of $16,000 per mile to the foot of the mountains
and of $48,000 per mile through the mountains. Forty miles had to be built
and equipped before any bonds were issued. In addition to this there was a
government land subsidy of 12,800 acres per mile. Ground was broken for the
road at Sacramento, February 22nd, 1863. The Union Pacific was built west
ward from Omaha. On May loth, 1869, the two roads met at Promontory,
near Salt Lake, and were united.
The first road built in the southern part of the state was the Los Angeles
and San Pedro, completed to Wilmington, in October, 1869. This connected Los
Angeles with a sea-port and greatly facilitated commerce. The Southern Pacific
Railroad was completed to Los Angeles, September 5th, 1877. It had, in 1872,
obtained a subsidy from Los Angeles county of about $fxx>,ooo ; $225,000 being
the Los Angeles and San Pedro Railroad. For this it was to build twenty-five
miles of road north of Los Angeles and the same distance to the east. The
northern end met the extension of the road south from Lathrop on the Central
Pacific in the Soledad canyon on September 5th, 1876, when the last tie was
laid and the golden spike driven. The eastern end was completed in 1883 to
El Paso, where it met the Texas Pacific and thus gave California a second trans
continental line.
The Atlantic and Pacific uniting with the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe,
built jointly their main line from Albuquerque to the Colorado at the Needles.
From there the Atlantic & Pacific built to Barstow about eighty miles north
east of San Bernardino; thence the California Southern continued the line to
San Diego. The road was completed to Colton in August, 1882, and opened
from San Diego to San Bernardino September I3th, 1883. In 1887 the road
was built westward from San Bernardino until it met the San Gabriel Valley
line — which was built eastward from Los Angeles to Mud Springs. The dif
ferent divisions of the road were united under one management with its west
ern terminus at Los Angeles, thus giving California its third transcontinental
line. The growth of the state and particularly of the southern part of the state
since the advent of the railroads has been phenomenal.
EDUCATION.
The first public school in California was opened at San Jose in December,
1794, seventeen years after the founding of that pueblo. The pioneer teacher
was Manuel de Vargas, a retired sergeant of infantry. Jose Manuel Toca, a
ship boy, opened the first school in Santa Barbara, in 1795. Maximo Pifia, an
invalid soldier, was the first schoolmaster of Los Angeles, teaching in 1817 and
1818. During the Spanish era the schoolmasters were mostly invalid soldiers
— men of little learning — about all they could teach was reading and writing
90
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
and the doctrina Christiana. They were brutal tyrants and their school gov
ernments military despotisms. The people were indifferent to education and as
the schoolmasters were paid by rate bills the terms were short and the vacations
long. Mexico did somewhat better for public education than Spain. The school
terms were a little longer and the vacations proportionately shorter, but it was
not uncommon then for a vacation to last two or three years.
During the war of American conquest the schools were all closed. After
the cessation of hostilities in 1847, a school under army regulations was estab
lished in Los Angeles — or rather it was under the superintendency of Col. J.
D. Stevenson, the military commander of the Department of the South. Dr.
William B. Osburn was appointed teacher. This was the first English com
mon school established in California. After peace was declared and the munic
ipal governments organized, schools were opened in the large towns. These
were subscription schools, although in some cases the town council appropri
ated public funds for the education of a certain number of poor children who
were entitled to attend some private school.
The first act to establish a common school system in California was
approved May 3rd, 1852. Great advance was made in perfecting and building
up this system from 1863 to 1869 under the administration of State School
Superintendent John Swett, who has been called the " Horace Mann of Cali
fornia." The first state Normal School for " the training of teachers " was
established in San Francisco in 1863. It was afterwards removed to San Jose.
There are now five Normal Schools in the state. The public school system and
the public schools of California rank among the best in the United States.
Governors of California.
UNDER SPANISH RULE.
Caspar de Portala .. . 1767-1771 Jose Joaquin de Arrillaga. . 1792-1794
Felipe de Barri 1771-1774 Diego de Borica 1794-1800
Felipe de Neve 1774-1782 Jose Joaquin de Arrillaga. . 1800-1814
Pedro Pages 1782-1790 Jose Dario Arguello 1814-1815
Jose Antonio Romeu 1790-1792 Pablo Vicente de Sola 1815-1822
UNDER MEXICAN RULE.
Luis Antonio Arguello 1822-1825 Jose Castro 1835-1836
Jose Maria de Echandia. . . 1825-1831 Nicolas Guiterrez 1836
Manuel Victoria 1831-1832 Juan Bautista Alvarado 1836-1842
Pio Pico 1832-1833 Manuel Micheltorena 1842-1845
Jose Figueroa 1833-1835 Pio Pico 1845-1846
UNDER AMERICAN MILITARY RULE.
Commodore Robert F. Stockton Aug. 17, i846-Jan. 16, 1847
Captain John C. Fremont Jan. i6-March i, 1847
General Stephen W. Keirnev March i-May 31, 1847
Colonel Richard B. Mason May 31, i847-April 13, 1849
General Bennett Rilcy April 13, i849-Nov. 13, 1849
GOVERNORS OF STATE.
Pether H. Burnett 1849-1851 Romualdo Pacheco 1875
John McDougal 1851-1852 William Irwin 1875-1880
John Bigler 1852-1855 George C. Perkins 1880-1883
J. Neely Johnson 1855-1858 George Stoneman 1883-1887
John B. Wellcr 1858-1860 Washington Bartlett 1887
Milton S. Latham 1860 Robert W. Waterman 1887-1891
John G. Downey 1860-1862 Henry H. Markham 1891-1895
Leland Stanford 1862-1863 James H. Budd 1895-1899
Frederick F. Low 1863-1867 Henry T. Gage 1899-1903
Henry H. Haight 1867-1871 George C. Pardee 1903-1907
Newton Booth 1871-1875 J. N. Gillett 1907
92 BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
SPANISH AND MEXICAN LAND GRANTS IN Los ANGELES
COUNTY.
GRANT.
CONFIRMEE.
ACRES.
DATE.
Aguaje de la Centinela
. B. Abila
2,219
Aug. 23, 1872
Loa Alamitos
. A. Stearns
28,027
Aug. 29, 1874
Azusa
. A. Duarte
6,505
June 6, 1878
Azusa
. Henry Dalton
4,431
May 29, 1876
La Ballona
. A. Machado et al
13,919
Dec. 8, 1873
Boca de Santa Monica
. Ysidro Reves et al
6,656
July 21, 1882
Boca de la Plava
. E. Vejar
6,607
Mar. i, 1879
La Brea
. A. Rocha et al
4,439
April 1 5, 1873
Las Bolsas
. R. Yorba and M. C. Nieto.
33,46o
June 19, 1874
Cahuenga
. D. W. Alexander et al
388
Aug. 2, 1872
La Canada
. J. R. Scott et al
5,862
Aug. i, 1866
Canada de los Alisos
. J. Serrano
10,668
June 27, 1871
Canada de los Nogales
. J. M. Aguilar
1,199
May 4, 1882
Los Cerritos
. Juan Temple
27,054
Dec. 7, 1867
Paso de la Tijera
. T. Sanchez et al
4,219
• May 22, 1873
Las Cienegas
. J. Abila et al
4,439
June 15, 1871
El Conejo
. J. de la G. y Noriega
48,571
Jan. 8, 1873
Los Coyotes
. Andreas Pico et al
48,806
Mar. 9, 1875
El Encino
. V. de la Osa et al
4,460
Jan. 8, 1876
El Escorpion
. Urbano et al_
1,109
Dec. n, 1883
Los Feliz
. M. Y. Verdugo
6,647
April 18, 1871
Lomas de Santiago
. T. Yorba
47,226
Feb. i, 1868
La Habra
. Andreas Pico et al
6,698
Dec. 4, 1882
Huerta de Cuati
. V. Reid
128
June 30, 1859
Island de S. Catalina
. J. M. Covarrubias
45,820
April 20, 1867
La Liebre
. J. M. Flores
48,799
June 21, -1879
i Aug. 9, 1866
Los Angeles City lands. . . .
. Citv of Los Angeles
17,172
} Aug. 4, 1875
La Merced
.F. P. F. Temple
2,363
Feb. 13, 1872
Mission San Gabriel, lot. .
. J. S. Alemany
55
Dec. 4, 1875
Mission San Fernando, lot. .
. Bp. J. S. Alemany
79
May 31, 1864
Mission San Gabriel, lot. ...
. Bp. J. S. Alemany
190
Nov. 19, 1859
Mission Vieja
. Juan Foster
46,432
Aug. 6, 1866
Ex-mission San Fernando. .
. .F. deCelis
116,858
Jan. 8, 1873
Los Nogales
. Maria de J. Garcia et al . . .
1,003
June 29, 1882
El Niguil
. Juan Abila
13,316
April 5, 1873
Los Palos Verdes
. J. L. Sepulveda et al
31,629
June 23, 1880
Paso de Bartolo, part
. B. Guirado
876
Sept. 27, 1867
Paso de Bartolo, part
. Joaquin Sepulveda
207
Mar. 17, 1 88 1
BRIEF HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA
93
Tracts near San Gabriel .
Paso de Bartolo, part Pio Pico 8,991 Aug. 6, 1881
Potrero de Felipe Lugo Morilla & Romero 2,042 June 15, 1871
Potrero Grande J. M. Sanchez 4,431 July 19, 1859
Prospero tract R. Valenzuela et al 23 Dec. 4, 1875
Providentia ,D. W. Alexander et al. . . . 4,064 Aug. 6, 1872
La Puente Workman & Roland 48,790 April 19, 1867
Rincon de la Brea G. Ybarra 4,452 Nov. 14, 1864
Rincon de los Bueyes F. Higuera et al 3>I27 Aug. 27, 1872
San Antonio A. M. Lugo 29,513 July 20, 1866
Rodeo de las Aguas M. R. Yaldez 4,419 June 27, 1871
San Francisco Jacobo Feliz et al 48,61 1 Feb. 12, 1875
f Juan Silva 50
H. P. Dorsey 50
Michael White 78 Aug. 26, 1871
Jose Ledesma 22 June 17, 1871
Daniel Sexton 227 May 16, 1871
J. P. de Courtney 49 Jan. 20, 1871
Francisco Sales 19 June 20, 1871
^ Jose Domingo 22 Aug. 23, 1871
San Francisquito Henry Dalton 8,893 May 30, 1867
San Joaquin . . Jose Sepulveda 48,893 Sept. 19, 1867
San Jose Dalton, Palomares & Vejar. 22,340 Jan. 20, 1875
San Jose de Buenos Ayres. . . B. D. Wilson 4438 July 5, 1866
San Juan Cajon de Sta. Ana. J. P. Ontiveras 35,97° May 21, 1877
San Jose, addition to Dalton, Palomares & Vejar. 4,430 Dec. 4, 1875
San Pasqual 15. D. Wilson 708 Feb. 12, 1881
San Pasqual Manuel Garfias 13,693 April 3, 1863
San Pasqual Juan Gallardo 700
San Pedro M. Dominguez et al 43>rl9 Dec. 18, 1858
San Rafael Julio Yerdugo et al 36,403 Jan. 28, 1882
San Yicente y Santa Monica. .R. Sepulveda 30,259 July 23, 1881
Santa Anita Henry Dalton I3,3r9 Aug- 9, lg66
Santa Gertrudes T. S. Colima 3,696 July 17, 1877
Santa Gertrudes Mcfarland & Downey 17,602 Aug. 19, 1870
Santiago de Santa Ana B. Yorba et al 78,941 Dec. 21, 188.5
Sausal Redondo A. L. Abila 22,458 Mar. 22, 1875
Simi J. de la G. y Noriega 113,009 June 29, 1865
Tajauta E. Abila 3,559 Jan. 8, 1873
Temescal E. de la Cuesta 13,339 Sept. 13, 1871
Topanga Malibu Sequit M. Keller 13,315 Aug. 29, 1872
Tejunga D. W. Alexander et al 16,609 Oct- J9> l874
LasVirgenes M. A. Machado 8,885 Sept. 5.1883
Condensed History of Los Angeles County.
CHAPTER I.
ORGANIZATION.
THE history of " el pueblo de Los Angeles ", as the central point of the
southern district of the territory of Alta California, has already been given
in the state history. We have followed the growth of the town from its
founding, in 1781, to its final conquest and occupation by the United States troops
in 1847. We have seen the rise and the fall of the mission establishments of
ORIGINAL CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE ANGELS. 1822.
San Gabriel, San Fernando and San Juan Capistrano, and the occupation of
the fertile valleys and mesas by the great ranches granted to settlers of Spanish,
Mexican and Californian birth and to a few Americans. At the time of the
state organization, the territory included in Los. Angeles county was distributed
in large tracts ranging from a few thousand to more than a hundred thousand
96 CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
acres. The oldest of these grants was occupied as early as 1784, that being
the date assigned for San Rafael rancho, granted to the Verdugos. Santa Ana
was granted to the Yorbas and Simi to the Noriegas among the earliest allotments.
The government of the United States early appointed commissioners to
examine into land titles in California and for a number of years investigations
were made and patents issued or refused to the claimants. There was much
confusion and no little fraud connected with the final allotment of titles, although
there were not so many disputed claims in this district as in the north. About
seventy-five patents were issued to lands in the county.
Los Angeles was one of the twenty-seven counties created by act of the
first California legislature, April i8th, 1850. Its boundaries as first indicated
were very indefinite, extending from San Diego county on the south to Santa
Barbara on the north and from the Pacific to " the top of the coast range." The
second legislature amended the act by making the boundaries more exact and
extending them to the eastern state line. The area of the original county was
about 34,000 square miles, almost as large as the state of Indiana. In 1851
the Mormon colony purchased the San Bernardino grant and established their
colony of San Bernardino. In consequence San Bernardino county was set
off from Los Angeles April 26th, 1853, taking an area of 20,055 square miles
from the mother county. In 1866 Kern county was created, taking part of its
territory from this county. After long discussion and dissension, Orange county
was created, March nth, 1889, taking 780 square miles, which leaves Los An
geles with a present area of 3957 square miles. Pomona county has been several
times proposed and strong efforts have been made to secure its creation from
Los Angeles and San Bernardino territory but, thus far, the movement has not
been successful.
The first county election took place April ist, 1850. The census for this
year gives the county a population of 3530; 377 votes were cast and the officers
chosen were: Judge, Augustin Olivera ; clerk, B. D. Wilson; attorney, Benjamin
Hayes ; surveyor, J. R. Conway ; treasurer, Manuel Garfias ; assessor, Antonio
F. Coronel ; recorder, Ignacio del Valle ; sheriff, George T. Burrell ; coroner,
Charles B. Cullen. August yth, 1851, the county was divided into six townships,
Los Angeles, San Gabriel, San Jose, San Bernardino, Santa Ana, San Juan
Capistrano. The supervisors were not elected until June I4th, 1852, civil affairs
in the meantime being administered by the " court of sessions ", appointed by
the military governor. The first supervisors were Jefferson Hunt, Julian Chavez,
F. P. F. Temple, Manuel Requena and Samuel Arbuckle ; the board was organ
ized with Arbuckle as chairman and B. D. Wilson, county clerk, clerk. The
office of juez de campo, judge of the plains, was continued for a number of
years after the American occupation, as late as 1872, although it was a part
of the machinery of the Mexican administration. It was the duty of this officer
to attend rodeos, settle all questions relating to brands and to the handling and
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
97
division of stock. They were appointed to different districts and were given
large jurisdiction.
One of the first important political questions discussed in the southern
district was that of forming a separate state. In 1850, before California had
been received into the union, a petition requesting that the southern district be
left out of the state was prepared. It was felt that the rancheros of the south,
thinly populated as it was, would receive but small favor from the north, which
held the bulk of the population, and would have to pay an undue proportion of
the expenses of state government. In 1859, an act was passed by the state
legislature permitting a vote upon a proposal to divide the state ; but it failed
to go through. State division has been a topic for much discussion and news
paper wisdom since that time, a bill for division being
introduced in 1888; but has never since become a
serious issue.
The first state senator from this county was Dr.
A. W. Hope, succeeded by Stephen C. Foster, one of
the earliest and most prominent of American settlers.
The first assemblymen were A. P. Crittenden and
Montgomery Martin, who were succeeded by Don
Abel Stearns and Ignacio del Valle. Los Angeles
county and Southern California bore little part in the
active government of the state during the first three
or four decades of its existence. The first governor
elected from the south was John G. Downey, inaug
urated January I4th, 1860. He was long one of the
leading citizens of Los Angeles and had served as as
semblyman and lieutenant-governor also. Since that
time this county has furnished three governors —
George Stoneman, Henry H. Markham and Henry T. Gage. As United States
senators, Cornelius Cole, Stephen M. White and Frank P. Flint have been resi
dents of Los Angeles county.
The discovery of gold brought wealth to Southern California, as well as
to the north. J. J. Warner in his " Centennial History " says : " The discovery
of the ' mines ' in the year 1848 carried away many of the native population ;
created a new demand for the horses and cattle which the southern rancheros
could so easily supply ; brought a multitude of emigrants from Sonora, as well
as from the United States; left the people at home here (in Los Angeles) in
a state of perpetual excitement and exultation. During the summer of 1849 and'
the year of 1850, Los Angeles was a thoroughfare of travel. With, or without
means, the incomers crowded on ; seldom destitute, for their needs were supplied,
when known, by generous hospitality from the Lugos of San Bernardino; Isaac
Williams of Chino ; Rowland and Workman at Puente and the liberality of native
HON. JOHN G. DOWNEY.
98
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
Californians. With the people of Los Angeles, 1850 was a year of enjoyment,
rather than an earnest pursuit of riches. Money was abundant. All sought
to make the most of the pleasures of life." A strong contrast here to the mad
rush for gold in the placer mines. The prosperity of the rancheros continued
for several years. In 1857 a drought retarded the progress; but the increased
market for stock and the importation of stock from the states had greatly in
creased the wealth of the county. The population of the county was 11,333 'm
1860. The floods and the long drought of the early sixties; the disturbed condi
tion of the country and the cessation of immigration made the increase slow
during the next ten years. The census of 1870 shows only 15,309 inhabitants.
The first court house of Los Angeles was the adobe house which had been
used as a government building during the later days of the Mexican rule. In
1859 the offices were removed to the Temple building, which was known for
many years as the " court house " ; this was located on the block where the
Bullock block now stands.
During the sixties the
county purchased the
building and it was occu
pied until the erection of
the present fine building
in 1890, at a cost of
$550,000.
The first school in Los
Angeles, taught in the
English language, was
under the instruction of
Rev. Dr. Wicks and J. G.
Nichols, in 1850. In 1854
there were four schools
in the county, two of
them being taught in
English. In 1855 there
were three school districts, Los Angeles, San Gabriel and El Monte, with
1 191 school children. Antonio F. Coronel acted as first superintendent of schools,
succeeded in 1855 by Dr. John S. Griffin1. In 1856 there were seven schools,
four of them being in the city. In 1866 the county had 12 school districts and
in 1876 123 teachers with a total valuation of school property of $202,262. In
1906 the county had 1616 teachers and school property amounting to $4,715,015.
Many of the earlier settlers of the county were southern in sentiment and
as the question of slavery began to threaten difficulties, there was much unrest
and dissension. Another element of the population came from the mining dis
tricts of the north— mostly of those who had failed to find wealth. The spirit
of lawlessness which prevailed in the state was not absent in this county. Crime
"OLD" COURT HOUSE.
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
99
was rampant and robbery and murders were every-day occurrences. The courts
seemed unable to meet the situation and the best citizens were uneasy. The
pro-slavery sentiment led to the attempt at state division in 1859; but on the
breaking out of the war, the people generally rallied to the Union and there
was no open disloyalty in this county. In 1861 a union club was organized and
a regiment of volunteers was raised. Camps were maintained at Drum Bar
racks, Wilmington, and at Camp Latham on the
Ballona grant, and troops were stationed in the city
at times, and at Fort Tejon. The agitation against
the Chinese was not as aggressive in this county as
in the north, the celestials were too useful in the
vineyards and orchards ; yet there was much discus
sion and public meetings were held to uphold the
anti-Chinese movement. The terrible Chinese mas
sacre of October 24th, 1871, was not a direct result
of feeling against the race ; but originated in a quar
rel between two Chinese factions over a woman.
In an attempt to quell the disturbance an officer and
two citizens were wounded by the Chinese. This
aroused a mob, who rushed into the Chinese quarter
and slaughtered right and left, without regard to
right or mercy. Their houses were looted by the
mob and nineteen deaths resulted from the affair.
The population of the county more than doubled during the seventies, the
census of 1880 showing 33,454 souls. The completion of transcontinental lines
and the "boom" swelled the population to 101,381 in 1890, despite the 13,000
taken out by Orange county the previous year. Since that date Los Angeles
county has rapidly advanced until now she stands second in the state, and is
a power to be reckoned with in all political questions.
ANTONIO F. CORONEL.
GOVERNOR JANUARY, 1«5.i?. TO MNUAWl. IH
FEBRUARY, 1'HV TO AUGUST, 1B4B
CHAPTER II.
STOCK RAISING AND AGRICULTURE.
ST( >CK raising, which was practically the only industry of Southern Califor
nia at the time the country passed into the hands of the United States,
continued to be the chief source of wealth for Los Angele& county until
the severe drought of 1863-4. According to the census report of 1850, the great
county of Los Angeles had but 2648 acres of improved land and in 1860 but 20,000
acres was under cultivation. The great influx of gold-seekers provided a new
market for cattle and horses, which largely increased prices, and the rancheros of
Southern California were as " flush " as the miners of the north, for a time. The
value of live stock steadily increased and in 1860 it is given as $1,451,000, although
there had been heavy losses, many cattle dying of starvation during the drought
of 1857. But the long dry spell, lasting two years and over, almost wrecked
the business. Stock died, or was killed to save the hides, until almost none was
left. After this time, the rancheros devoted more attention to sheep and the
flocks were greatly increased, while cattle were handled in smaller bunches and
improved stock was introduced by the Americans. The breaking up of the
big ranches began and a number of new settlements were made during the
seventies. As early as 1844 Jose Palomares, owner of the San Jose rancho,
where Pomona is now located, sold off a number of small tracts of land to Mex
icans, who took water from the San Jose creek and formed a prosperous little
settlement. About the same time Juan Bandini induced a party of New Mex
icans to settle on his Jurupa grant, now the site of Riverside, and the village
of Agua Mansa, with flourishing orchards and grain fields resulted. In 1851
the Mormon settlement of San Bernardino was begun and these industrious
people soon demonstrated that small farms could be made profitable in this
country. In 1851 a number of immigrants, mostly from the southern states,
settled at El Monte. Here was a natural cienega and the low damp lands were
especially adapted to the growing of corn and hogs. In 1860 this settlement
had a population of over one thousand and was a noted place in the early history
of the county. In 1874 it had a newspaper, the Observer, and a hotel. At
Spadra, Ruebottom's hotel was a stopping point for all stages to the east and
a noted hostelry in the sixties. This was also one of the earliest American set
tlements. About 1865 Governor Downey began to break up his Santa Gertrudes
rancho and the settlement of Downey followed. Here, too, corn yielded mar
velous crops and the raising of hogs and of dairy cattle was profitable. Thus
gradually small farms, with diversified farming, took the place of the old-time
exclusive stock raising and Los Angeles county lost her distinction as a " cow "
county ; although the raising of stock and dairying is still a profitable business.
102 CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
Much attention in later years has been given to the production of blooded stock,
especially horses; while the value of the dairy products for 1905, according to
the state agricultural report, reached a million dollars.
In 1857 a party of Germans, mostly artisans resident in San Francisco,
purchased a tract of land near the Santa Ana and established the settlement of
Anaheim. At first most of the tract was set to vineyards and the colonists en
gaged extensively in wine making. This was the first horticultural settlement.
Mission grapes had been set extensively during the sixties and seventies and
wine-making became one of the most important resources of the county. In
1879 two million gallons were produced beside 50,0x20 gallons of brandy. There
were then thirty distilleries in the county. The cultivation of the wine grape
began with the " mother " vineyard at San Gabriel, which was planted from
slips brought from Lower California. In 1831 Los Angeles city had over 100
acres of grapes and there were 50,000 vines growing on Los Nietos rancho.
The Californians began early to manufacture wines and aguadiente and in
1850 the county is credited with 57,000 gallons of wine. This was shipped to
San Francisco and brought good prices. In' 1855 Sansevaine brothers shipped
the first California wine to New York city and by 1861 L. J. Rose, B. D. Wilson
and the Sansevaines were making large shipments to the east. L. J. Rose, Don
Mateo Keller, Kohler and Frohling, and others were among the earlier manu
facturers who spent much time and money in experimenting, introducing new
varieties of grapes and improved methods of wine making. The cultivation of
the white muscat grape for raisins began about 1877-78 and for a time this grape
was planted very widely and raisins promised to become one of the greatest crops
of the county, but the appearance of the vine disease about 1885 destroyed many
vineyards and greatly discouraged both wine and raisin makers.
In the early seventies attention was turned to wheat raising on an extensive
scale. J. B. Lankershim was one of the first growers, planting a large acreage
on the San Fernando rancho. He was also one of the owners of the first large
flour mill erected in the county. Dan Freeman was another large wheat grower,
on the Centinela rancho. In 1879 Los Angeles county produced 752,000 bushels
of wheat, from 22,000 acres of land, according to Bancroft. Corn was also
Irrgely cultivated and barley was raised for hay on a large scale. But as the
possibilities of irrigation and horticulture developed, land became too valuable
for wheat culture, as it had already advanced beyond the possibility of profitable
use for grazing purposes.
During the eighties the chief feature of agricultural development was the
extension of irrigation systems. Irrigation had been practiced to some extent
since the first settlement of the country. The San Gabriel and San Fernando
missions and the settlers of Los Angeles had irrigated considerable areas and
built somewhat elaborate works. The waters of the San Gabriel and Los Angeles
rivers had been utilized by means of open ditches for many years ; but now
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 103'
began the formation of water companies who improved upon the old crude
methods and developed water from unused sources. In 1867 the first artesian
well was put down by Downey and Hellman about six miles from Wilmington.
Artesian water was found to be available in many districts and has been devel
oped until now probably half, at least, of the water used for irrigation in this
county comes from this source. In 1876 the land under irrigation in the county
was estimated at 26,900 acres; in 1890 70,164 acres were under irrigation, mostly
devoted to citrus culture.
The mission fathers planted orange trees at San Gabriel soon after its
establishment. In 1834 Louis Vignes, a Frenchman, who was one of the first
foreigners to locate in Los Angeles, planted an orange garden on his place,
known at that time as " El Aliso." This garden, surrounded by a high adobe
wall, contained not only oranges, but all the fruits then known in the country.
He also had a considerable vineyard and established a winery, under the great
sycamore tree, which gave the name of " El Aliso " to the place. In 1841 Wil
liam Wolfskill set out two acres of oranges, procuring the stock from Sart
Gabriel. These trees bore the first oranges that were ever put on the market
in this state and yielded such large profits that in 1858 Mr. Wolfskill set out
thirty acres on land lying between Alamecla and San Pedro, Third and Seventh
streets. In 1852 B. D. Wilson set a grove at San Gabriel; but in 1856 there
were only 100 orange bearing trees in the country, these surrounded by walls
to keep out wandering cattle. The total yield was 100,000 oranges, which were
sold by the hundred and brought a net income of $100 per tree, so Mr. Wolfskill
stated. From this time the planting went on rapidly. About 1873 Thomas A.
Garey, the pioneer nurseryman of the county, and L. J. Rose, B. D. Wilson and
others began to introduce different varieties of citrus fruit, importing them from
Europe, South America and Florida. The most valuable of these varieties proved
to be the Mediterranean Sweet. About 1880 the Washington Navel was brought
into the county from Riverside and its excellent qualities soon made it the favorite.
Between 1880 and 1890 the planting of citrus fruit was at its height. Stimulated
by the ready money and the exuberant hopes of boom times, large areas were
put under irrigation and planted out. Pomona, Alhambra, Whittier, Sierra
Madre and many other districts were thus started by people who looked forward
to making an easy fortune from citrus culture. In 1874 there were 34,700
bearing orange trees in the county; in 1880, 192,000 bearing trees, and in 1892
1,500,000 trees were growing.
In 1857 scale made its first appearance; but its inroads were not serious
until the appearance of the cottony cushion scale about 1890. This especially
affected trees near the coast and in a single year the crop in Los Angeles county
fell from 2212 cars to 718 cars. But the introduction of the Australian "lady-
bug " proved an effectual remedy and the groves were saved by this parasite.
Many of the earliest seedling orchards have now passed out of existence, the
104 CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
land being used for town lots, or for alfalfa or truck farming. Yet Los Angeles
county still leads in the production of citrus fruits, the value of the crop for 1906
being estimated at $4,000,000 and there being 1,738,213 bearing orange trees
in the county.
The introduction of alfalfa from San Bernardino county in the later fifties
gave a valuable crop for suitable lands and proved a great boon to the dairy
farmer. The culture of the sugar beet was attempted about 1879 and in 1880
Messrs. Nadeau and Gemmert planned to build a sugar factory at Florence.
This did not materialize, but later the location of sugar factories at Chino, Ala-
mitos and Oxnard supplied a market and a considerable acreage is annually
planted to beets. The growing of vegetables and small fruits has become an
important branch of our agriculture and large quantities are raised for home
use and for shipping.
Diversified farming and the small farm, intensively cultivated, is the rule
in the vicinity of Los Angeles now. Oranges, lemons, walnuts, olives and decid
uous fruits are raised with profit in many districts ; grain and hay are produced
on " dry " farms and the northern portion of the county still furnishes range for
cattle and sheep. Los Angeles is now one of the leading agricultural counties
in the state, her horticultural and garden products, in 1902, being valued at
$10,307,290, and her cereals and hay at over $1,000,000, with dairy produces of
equal value. And the possibilities are by no means exhausted. There is yet
much valuable land which can be utilized and much room for increased produc
tion in lands already under cultivation.
CHAPTER III.
MINING AND MANUFACTURING.
ALTHOUGH the first gold discovered in California was found in this
county, Los Angeles has never ranked high in gold production. In 1852
placer mines were found in the San Gabriel canon and quite an excite
ment followed. Considerable gold dust was taken from these mines which con
tinued to yield for many years in paying quantities. Gold was found on the Santa
Anita ranch in 1856 and there was a rush in that direction ; some mines were also
located on Catalina island and gold mines have been claimed at some other points
in the county. But the only paying claims were those of the San Gabriel. Silver
and other minerals have been found at various points ; but no very rich mines
have been uncovered.
The mineral wealth of the county is, however, large ; it produces a large
quantity of petroleum — which is quite as valuable, in its way, as gold. It is
COXDEXSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 105
said that Andreas Pico used to supply the priests at San Fernando mission with
oil from Pico canon, and it was from this district that the first oil was taken.
In iS-;<) the Pioneer Oil Co. was formed and wells were bored on the La Brea
ranclio and in other districts where brea or asphaltum indicated petroleum ;
but no oil in merchantable quantity was found until about 1865, when wells
were bored in Pico canon and a considerable oil excitement prevailed. The
first shipment of crude oil was made from these wells in 1867. But no very
active progress was made until improved machinery for drilling and pumping
came into use about 1877. Then the Pico and Xewhall wells became large
producers and the refinery at Xewhall was built and, for a number of years,
was successfully operated. The demand for the petroleum was not very active
until about 1885, when a company was formed to foster its use as a fuel and
produced a distillate which could be used for domestic and manufacturing pur
poses in a suitable burner. The Puente oil fields were exploited during the
eighties : but the pre-eminence of this county as an oil producer did not com
mence until the discovery of oil in Los Angeles city. In 1892, Messrs. Doheny
and Conner drilled a well in the old West Second street park which proved to
be a gusher. At once other wells were put down in this district and soon a
forest of derricks had arisen. By 1895 over 3°° wells were in operation in, or
near, the city and their yield is put at 730,000 barrels. About this time an oil
burner for use in locomotives was perfected and the Santa Fe road began to
use crude oil as fuel. Manufacturing plants and steam vessels found oil from
30 to 60 per cent, cheaper than coal. This fuel also presented many other ad
vantages and rapidly grew in favor, so that in spite of the greatly increased
output, the price rose. An oil " boom " naturally resulted. Oil companies were
numerous and prospecting was done in all sorts of likely and unlikely districts.
The Whittier field, the Sespe and other districts in Ventura county were devel
oped. There are now several refineries in the county and in 1905 over 1200
wells were yielding, their product reaching 4,000,000 barrels, valued at $1,755,000.
The cheapness and abundance of oil has been one of the leading factors in the
rapid progress of our county, giving a possibility of meeting eastern competition
in manufacturing, and being a large element in the development of our electric
railway systems and electrical power plants. Not its least benefit is in the im
provement of our public roads through the use of crude oil. We have now
about 7000 miles of public roads in the county. These, when properly treated
with oil, become almost dustless and as hard as macadamized roads, an advantage
of incalculable benefit in this country.
Second in our list of mineral wealth comes the clay products of the county.
Nearly all of the Californian dwellings and of the missions were built of un-
burned brick. Tiling, ollas and clay utensils were made by the Indians and
Mexicans. The first kiln-dried brick were made in Los Angeles in 1852 by
106
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
Captain Jesse Hunter of the Mormon battalion, and used to build a house at
the corner of Third and Main. In 1855 Mullaly, Porter and Aver started a
brick yard and in 1858 manufactured 2,000,000 brick. It was known that a
number of valuable clay beds existed and several brick yards utilized the clay ;
but it was not until the nineties that the business assumed large proportions.
With the steadily growing demand for building material, not only brick, but
artificial stone, concrete blocks and many other forms of manufactured clay
products for building purposes have been devised. Water pipe was first made
at Santa Monica in 1877. The manufacture of water and sewer pipe is now
a large business. There are eighteen or twenty establishments manufacturing
brick, pipe, pottety, concrete, and so
on and their annual production runs
into the millions. An art tile factory
has lately been established at Tropico.
The first carriage in California.
P>ancroft states, was purchased by
Temple and Alexander of San Pedro
in 1849, *ne price, including horses,
being $1000. Its appearance created
a sensation in Los Angeles. In 1853
Anderson and Mathews advertised as
carriage makers, and soon afterward
John Goller began business as a black
smith and wagon maker. Warner
says that his first wagon remained on
hand a good while, the native people
gazing on it with curiosity and dis
trust and then going back to their
carretas. A number of firms now
turn out vehicles — to the amount of
DON ABEL STEARNS. $7<I.72°. >» I£O6.
In 1851 the first flour mill was put
up in Los Angeles; there had long been "el Molino " at San Gabriel. In 1855
Don Abel Stearns and Jonathan R. Scott built a brick flour mill. About the same
time Henry Dalton had a flour mill on his Azusa rancho. The Eagle mills were
built in Los Angeles in 1865 and destroyed by fire in 1874. There are now a
number of flouring and grist mills in the county and their product for 1906 is
given as $3,038,855.
In 1857 James Woodworth started a broom factory ; in 1861 Perry and
Woodworth established their planing mill and also manufactured beehives, furni
ture, etc. In 1873 Barnard brothers built a woolen mill on Pearl street. At
this time the annual wool clip was very large and for some years this mill made
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 107
blankets and woolen cloth ; but it seems never to have been very successful and
at last shut down, while the mill was used for the first ice plant in the city.
Within the last few years many new ventures in the way of manufactures
have been made. In 1903 the model town of Dolgeville was established. Here
felt is made and piano hammers and other articles for which felt is used. There
are now several shoe factories in the county, one being located at San Pedro
and one at Venice. The meat packing industry is one of the most important in
the county, the product of packed meats, lard and by-products reaching $4,000,000.
I.os Angeles does not claim pre-eminence as a manufacturing region, yet
the last report of the state agricultural board lists her manufactured products
as reaching a total of $20,000,000, which is not bad for a beginning.
CHAPTER IV.
TRANSPORTATION AND COMMKRCE.
TRADING vessels had entered the port of San Pedro from the earliest his
tory of California, and the port had been a busy place in the forties. In
August, 1840, according to Henry Mellns, thirteen vessels touched at this
port. In 1849 the first steamer, the Goldhunter, entered
the port. The first steamer to make regular trips was
the Ohio, which carried passengers to San Francisco,
charging " $55 for cabin passage, the bill of fare consist
ing of salt beef, hard bread, potatoes and coffee, without
milk or sugar." Freight was $25 per ton. In 1872 the
Pacific Mail Steamship Company put on its service, with
passenger fare at $15 and freight $5 per ton. Before
the building of the railroad in 1869 freight was hauled
to the city by carts or wagons at the rate of $1.00 per
hundredweight in the fifties. In 1852 Alexnnder &•
Banning put on the first stage, fare to the city $10; in
1867 J. J. Tomlinson established a rival stage line and
Benjamin Hayes writes : " I vividly remember stand
ing in front of the United States Hotel in 1868, one
night of a steamer's arrival, and hearing the rival stages
of Banning and Tomlinson come up Main street, racing
to get in first, the horses on the gallop and in the darkness a man on each stage
blowing a horn to warn people in the street to clear the track:"
In 1855 fifty-nine vessels landed at San Pedro; in 1865 101 vessels touched
at the port and in 1875 426 vessels entered ; in 1906 1700 vessels arrived bringing
imports to the value of $15,000,000. In 1858 the port was changed from San
Pedro to Wilmington, through the action of Col. Phineas Banning in building
up that town. In 1871 the government, after several preliminary surveys, made
GEN. PHINEAS BANNING.
108
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
an appropriation and began improving the harbor. From that date to the
present work has continued more or less intermittently, and a very large sum
has been expended in carrying out the extensive plans for the improvement of
the inner harbor and the construction of an outer harbor.
We have seen the Californians galloping from San Diego to Monterey on
their tough little horses, the best saddle horses in the world, all early visitors
agree. Enroute they stopped at missions or ranches and received entertainment
and found fresh horses furnished them at every stopping place. Or, if a party
were traveling, it might be accompanied
by two or three Indian servants, driving
a band of horses which supplied fresh
mounts each day. Their women, and
their baggage or freight, were trans
ported in carretas, the framework made
of poles and hides and mounted on
wooden wheels. The earliest mails were
delivered more or less regularly by post
riders. Even after the American occu
pation Los Angeles had no regular mails
and no stages for several years.
In 1851, Gregory's Great Atlantic and
Pacific Express arrived in Los Angeles,
bringing the first direct overland mail to
the town, forty-nine days from St. Louis.
But one trip seems to have finished the
Great Atlantic, etc. ; we hear no more of
it. In 1852 a stage line was established
between Los Angeles and the north, but
it does not seem to have been main
tained regularly until about 1857, when
David Smith established a bi-monthly route via Visalia. In 1862 a reg
ular tri-weekly stage ran from San Jose to Los Angeles. In the early
fifties stages ran to San Bernardino, and Phineas Banning put on a regular
stage between the city and San Pedro. In 1859 a weekly stage made trips to
San Diego. In 1858 the Butterfield stage route was established. This carried
the mails from St. Louis via the southern route through Los Angeles to San
Francisco and gave the first regular overland mails ; the distance was 2880 miles
and the shortest time made was twenty-one days. This service was a great
advance over any previous one and was greatly appreciated; but in 1861 it was
replaced by the pony express, which traveled the central route. In 1857 Wells
Fargo opened an office in Los Angeles. For years this company did the banking
of the country as well as the express business.
MILITARY SADDLE OP DON ANDRES PICO.
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 109
In 1866 Banning & Co. put on a fast coach from Wilmington to Fort Yuma,
giving a seventy-two-hour ride, which was considered a feat in those days.
Tin' advertisement for this line reads : " Leave for Fort Yuma at 4 o'clock every
Monday, passing through Los Angeles and San Bernardino. Returning, leave
Fort Yuma every Sunday at 3 o'clock a.m." In 1867 a daily mail stage was
maintained between Los Angeles and San Jose, then the terminus of the railroad.
At the same time regular stage lines were operated between Los Angeles and
Tucson, Arizona, and another line went to Prescott.
As the central point for so many stage lines, and as the outfitting point for
a large trade carried on by wagon trains, Los Angeles was not altogether dull
in the days before the railroad came. In the fifties the trade with Salt Lake
was established and for many years large quantities of freight were hauled to
Salt Lake, to Arizona, and even as far north as Idaho and Montana. In March,
1859, the Shir reports 150 wagons leaving with goods to the amount of $180,000.
This freighting business was of such importance and profit that when a railroad
from San Pedro to Los Angeles was first proposed, there was decided opposition
to it ; and the Southern Pacific met the same obstacle when it made its first pro
posals in this section. A bill for a railroad between the port and the city was
proposed in 1861, but although the county was granted permission to vote bonds
for the road, nothing was done until 1867, when the question of granting the
directors a subsidy of $150,000 from the county and $75,000 from the city was
submitted to the people and was carried by a vote of 672 to 700 — a close shave.
The road was completed in 1869 and, despite the gloomy forebodings of many
citizens, soon proved itself a valuable asset to the county. In 1872 the Southern
Pacific was building its line southward through the San Joaquin valley ; two
routes were surveyed, one through the Soledad pass and San Fernando valley
to Los Angeles, with heavy grades and costly tunnels ; the other crossed the
Mojave desert to Needles, a comparatively easy route. After much discussion
and negotiation, the railroad company agreed to take the Los Angeles route,
provided the county would vote bonds to the amount of $500,000, including its
holding in the Los Angeles and San Pedro road. The railway company on its
part agreed to construct fifty miles of track within the county inside of eighteen
months and within two years should connect Los Angeles and Anaheim by rail
and should carry its ntain trunk line on its way to connect with any southern
transcontinental line, through Los Angeles valley. The company carried out
its agreement and completed its line north to San Fernando and east to Spadra,
the first train going over the road April 4, 1874. The construction of the San
Fernando tunnel required more than a year and the cost is reported at two and
a half millions. The connection between Los Angeles and San Francisco was
made September 8th, 1876 — a great day in the annals of this county. The
Southern Pacific was completed to its eastern connection in March, 1881, thus
110 CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
giving a through southern route — a consummation which had been talked of since
the early fifties.
The building of the Los Angeles and Independence road from Santa Monica
to Los Angeles has been gone into in the Santa Monica history. It was fully
believed at the time that this line would be continued to Independence and pos
sibly to a connection with the Central Pacific in Utah. In 1884 the Los Angeles
and San Gabriel Valley road was constructed to Pasadena, its opening being
celebrated by an enthusiastic excursion party, September I7th, 1885. Later it
was completed to the San Gabriel river and in 1887 taken over by the Santa Fe
system.
In 1879 representatives of a new corporation, the Atchison, Topeka and
Santa Fe, which was building a transcontinental line, visited California and
decided upon San Diego as the terminus and the Cajon pass as the gateway for
their road. In 1885 the Santa Fe company purchased the Southern Pacific
branch already built from Needles to Mojave and built the connection between
Barstovv and San Bernardino, thus completing its line and giving Southern Cal
ifornia a second transcontinental line. November 29th, 1885, its trains began
running into Los Angeles, using the Southern Pacific tracks from Colton until
the completion of its own line in 1887.
The completion of the Santa Fe led to a rate war which was the first cause
of the " boom " of 1886-7. At first the passenger rate from Chicago was dropped
from $115 to $70, while freight rates were mercilessly slashed. On February
2ist, 1886, tickets between the coast and the Missouri river were sold for $25 ;
March 6th the prices dropped to $20 from Chicago and $35 from New York.
For a few hours on March 8th tickets were sold in Los Angeles by the Southern
Pacific for a flat rate of $1.00 to Missouri river points. This was the culmination.
Naturally, such an opportunity was seized by thousands of people who had
hitherto never dreamed of seeing California ; and during the year thav rates were
below the normal, the rush continued. At first the newcomers looked around
and purchased improved property, at reasonable figures ; as the influx continued,
prices rose and property in and about Los Angeles changed hands at figures
which astonished old timers ; then the speculative fever seized old residents and
new comers alike ; and professional boomers and real estate sharks helped to
feed it. Townsites were laid out anywhere ; at first a business block, a hotel
and water pipe and sidewalks were supplied ; later the bare ground staked off,
was sold at the price of city lots. Advertising, auctions, bands and excursions
helped the excitement and sold the property to people who confidently expected
to make from fifty to five hundred per cent, on their deals — as had been actually
done in some cases. Many of the present thriving towns of this county were
thus born and, having real merit in spite of the wild methods and hopes, they
have survived their flimsy foundation. Such are Glendale, " Garvanzo ", " Ah-
susah ", Glendora, Alhambra, University, and others. While the real estate
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 111
boom had, of course, a tremendous reaction anci there were many losses, there
was also large gain. Substantial improvements were made as a result which
greatly enhanced the value of property and prepared the way for a more solid
advance. Many water companies organized during this time developed the
water supply ; many orchards set out as a speculative venture, proved to be solid
investments ; many buildings which were put up under the influence of inflated
values, helped to create confidence and soon became fitted to the demand. At
the height of the boom, in May, June and July, 1887, usually the dullest months
in the year, the real estate sales in this county reached $35,067,830, for the three
months. After this sales began to drop off. Yet during 1887-8 nearly $20,-
000,000 was expended in building. A large number of dummy, or narrow-guage
roads were built during this period and many branches of the railway lines were
completed. The cable system of Los Angeles was one result of the sudden ex
pansion.
In 1886 a narrow-gauge line was built between Los Angeles and Glendale
and in 1887 another narrow-gauge road was built to Pasadena. This road,
known as the " Cross " road, absorbed the Glendale branch. In 1890 the " Ter
minal " Company, an organization of eastern capitalists, purchased the Cross
roads and built a line to San Pedro. It was then believed that this was a move
to secure terminal facilities at San Pedro for the Union Pacific ; but the plans
for the completion of the line failed to materialize and it was not until 1900,
when Senator W. A. Clark of Montana secured a controlling interest in the Ore
gon Short Line, that active work began in carrying out the long-talked-of con
nection between Los Angeles and Salt Lake. In 1906 the San Pedro and Salt
Lake railway was completed, thus giving Southern California another transcon
tinental line and opening up a new and rich territory tributary to Los Angeles.
Los Angeles county now has nearly 700 miles of steam railway within her bor
ders ; she has three transcontinental lines centering within her limits ; she has
the fine harbor of San Pedro, beside ports at Port Los Angeles, Redondo and
Long Ueach. She is thus fully equipped to hold her place as the distributing
point for a very large territory and has at her command ample and easily reached
markets for all of her surplus products.
CHAPTER V.
THE DAY OF THE TROLLEY.
FROM the shrieking, log-wheeled, ox-drawn carretas, moving at the rate of
two miles, or less, an hour to the broad gauge passenger coach, speeded
by electric motive power at the rate of sixty miles an hour, is a transfor
mation that some citizens of Los Angeles have seen. The changes in the business
and social life of the people, in the building and the general aspect of the country
are scarcely less amazing. The city of Los Angeles, which in 1880 had a pop
ulation of n,ooo and was still for the most part made up of one-story adobes,
has become a metropolitan, modern city, with a population of 250,000 and with
twelve and fourteen story buildings equal to any in the United States. And
the county has kept pace with the city. The assessment for 1880 for the county
gave a total valuation of $18,593,773, while the assessment for 1907 was
$375,719,358. In 1880 there were but three banks in the county, all in the city ;
there are now about sixty banks doing business, nearly half of them in outside
towns. In 1880 the county reported 192,000 bearing orange trees; the latest
report of the State Board of Agriculture gives this county over 1,500,000 bear
ing orange trees and over 3,000,000 bearing fruit trees of all varieties. These
figures are but indications of the tremendous changes brought about in the past
quarter of a century by the development of our natural resources, the exploita
tion of our incomparable climate and the influx of eastern capital which has
built up our railway systems. There can be no question that a large credit for
our prosperity is due to our transportation facilities. The advance movement
in the county began with the entry of the Souhern Pacific and Santa Fe roads ;
during the boom years a number of " dummy " roads were built, connecting
the city with Pasadena, Glendale, Hollywood and Norwalk, and a broad gauge
road to Santa Monica. During these years the Santa Fe and Southern Pacific
built many branch roads — Pasadena, Santa Ana, and intermediate points ;
Redondo ; Ballona and Santa Monica ; Long Beach, and Orange. Many new
town sprang up along these lines and older places, like Downey, Compton,
Florence, and a dozen other farming communities, took on a new aspect under
the stimulus of the railroad.
In 1874 the first street-car line in the city of Los Angeles was built, run
ning down Spring street to Sixth. Horses, or more likely mules, were the
motive power. A number of other horse-car lines followed and it was consid
ered in those days that Los Angeles was very well provided for in the way of
transportation. In 1884 the first cable line was built, out West Second street
to Belmont hill. This did not prove a successful venture and was aban-
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 113
doned, as was an electric line attempted that same year, running out Pico street.
During the boom a company was organized and plans were laid for a cable
system which should give rapid transit to all parts of the city. Under the super
vision of Col. J. C. Robinson, an experienced engineer, these plans were carried
out and Tune 8th, 1889, the first division of the new service, the line starting at
the Grand Avenue power house, now the postoffice, down Seventh and " Fort "
streets to the Baker block, was put in operation. The Temple street, Boyle
Heights and Downey avenue divisions followed.
In 189^ the West Second street electric line was built and the first car went
over it July 1st. This line over the heaviest grades in the city was looked upon
with very serious doubts at first. But when its success was assured, develop
ments were rapid. In 1892 the Pasadena and Mount Wilson Company was
organized by T. S. C. Lowe, and this, at the time the most remarkable moun
tain road in the world, was completed in 1893.
In 1895 Messrs. Sherman and Clark built the electric line to Pasadena.
This was the first inter-urban street-car line and it was freely predicted that
" it would never pay.1' Yet the next year the same gentlemen announced their
intention of building an electric line to Santa Monica, and carried out their
purpose. In 1895 the Traction Company entered the field and built their Uni
versity line.
But the trolley history of the county really began when the Cable Railway
system was sold under foreclosure to the Electric Street Railway Company, in
1898, for $1,344,320. The company was at once reorganized and in 1901 H.
E. Huntington was announced as its head. The extension of lines in the city
since that date has gone steadily on. But the greatest work has been in the
building of suburban lines. First the Pasadena line was extended to Altadena
and the foot of the Mt. Lowe Incline ; lines were built to Alhambra and
San Gabriel, to Hollywood and Glendale. Then Long Beach, San Pedro,
Rcdondo, and Newport were reached. These lines were constructed by the
Pacific Electric Company and the Los Angeles Pacific. Within the past two
or three years, roads have been built to Whittier, Monrovia, Covina, and Santa
Ana. In 1903 the Pacific Electric constructed its building in Los Angeles,
which gives a central point for its suburban lines. A number of elaborate and
costly power plants supply the motive power and a large number of sub-stations
distribute it. The expenditure of the many millions of dollars necessary to build
and maintain this network of railways has been no small factor in our general
prosperity.
The extension of these roads with their frequent and comfortable service
caused an expansion of the beach towns. Long Beach, San Pedro, Redondo
and Santa Monica experienced a sudden rise in values that recalled the days
of '87. New beach settlements, Ocean Park, Venice, Playa del Rey, Manhat-
114 CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
tan, Hermosa, and half a dozen others were platted and put on the market. The
quick transit brought new settlers to the beach ; it also brought crowds of
pleasure seekers ; and at once new bathhouses and pavilions, hotels and piers
were provided. It is probably safe to say that the population of our beach
towns has been more than doubled during the past seven years.
But the suburban lines have created many new settlements between the
city and the beach. People who could never hope to own a home within the
city have been able to purchase a lot or a tract outside of the city, and at the
same time be within easy reach of their places of business, or of labor. Many
handsome homes have been built along the electric lines and such residence
districts as Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Hollywood, South Pasadena, Hunting-
ton Park, and others, have shown that there is a demand for high class sub
urban property.
The electric lines also carry the mails, express and freight. So satisfac
tory has their freight service proved that the older steam lines cannot compete
with them.. They are now handling carload lots which are transferred direct
to the steam lines. The fact that they can give a frequent service and stop
wherever freight or express matter is to be handled has been of great benefit
to the dairymen and small farmers. They are thus able to put their vegetables,
berries and produce on the market with an ease and a promptness which adds
largely to their profits.
Los Angeles county increased in population at the rate of 67 per cent, be
tween 1890 and 1900. And her progress in the present decade has been accel
erated and will doubtless show an even greater gain in 1910. And we cannot
question that there is a relation between the mileage of our electric railways,
now about 700 miles in the county, and our growing population.
CHAPTER VI.
CITIES AND TOWNS.
THE history of the city of Los Angeles is so closely interwoven with that of
the county that the two can hardly be separated. Although Monterey
was the capital most of the time during the early history of the country,
Los Angeles had more inhabitants and was the center of a larger settled district.
After the gold rush of the early fifties, San Francisco, Sacramento, and a number
of northern towns exceeded Los Angeles in population ; but within the past three
decades Los Angeles has steadily passed its rivals until now it is the second county
and the second city in the state. During the past twenty-six years Los Angeles
has made the most rapid, as well as the most constant, growth in population
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 115
of any important city in the United States, the population now being estimated
at 300,000.
There are now twenty-seven incorporated cities in the county, of which
Pasadena, after Los Angeles, is the first in size.
PASADENA.
In August, 1873, a number of people, residents of Indiana, sent a committee
to California to look over the country and select a tract for colonization, to be
devoted to citrus and fruit culture. After traveling over Southern California
these gentlemen decided upon a body of 4000 acres of the San Pasqual rancho.
This grant had been made to Manuel Garfias in 1843 and was at this time owned
by Dr. John S. Griffin and B. D. Wilson. The beautiful and highly improved
ranches of L. J. Rose and Mr. Wilson, in this vicinity, showed what might be
accomplished here. There were about fifty people in the original Indiana colony ;
but many of these were unable to carry out their agreement and in consequence
the purchase of the land was completed by a new organization, the Orange
Grove Association. Each shareholder received a fifteen-acre tract while the
balance of the land was held for the benefit of the company. In 1875 the name
of Pasadena, meaning " Crown of the Valley ", taken from some Indian dialect,
was adopted in place of " Indiana Colony."
The original irrigation system of the Orange Grove Association was the
first in California to distribute water under pressure, through iron pipe. The
plan was such a radical change from the old system of earthen ditches and
little wooden flumes that it was much commented upon and criticised; but it
has since then been largely imitated.
The settlers built homes and started a school, in 1874, in a private house.
The first church, the Presbyterian, was built in 1875-6 at a cost of $4200. In
March, 1880, Pasadena held a citrus fair which attracted many visitors and
showed the quality of fruit that could be produced. At this time the town had
a tri-wcekly stage and mail service. In 1882 the Pasadena Land and Water
Company was formed and took over the rights and properties of the Orange
Grove Association. The Lake Vineyard Company had been formed in 1874
and had purchased land adjoining that of the Orange Grove Company, secur
ing their water rights from the heirs of B. D. Wilson. They had sold a con
siderable area which was tinder irrigation and was known as the " east side ",
while the settlement of the Indiana Colony was the " west side." A conflict
grew out of the adjustment of the water rights of these two associations which,
after a number of years of uncertainty, was settled by a compromise satisfactory
to all.
In 1884 the Los Angeles and San Gabriel road was built to Pasadena; in
1887 this became a part of the Santa Fe system. The Cross " dummy '' road
reached the town in 1887, and the first street car line was built this year. The
•old Raymond hotel was built in 1886 and first drew the attention of the tourist
116 CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
world to the attractions offered by Pasadena and its environs. The burning
of this hotel in 1895 was a severe blow.
The town was incorporated in 1886. In 1901 it adopted a freeholder's
charter. It is known as one of the best governed and most orderly towns of
the country ; while its municipal improvements are unexcelled. In Throop
College, established in 1894, it has the only strictly technical school in Southern
California. Pasadena is a city of beautiful homes and magnificent hotels. It
is now a mecca for the wealthy easterner who wishes to escape winter severities.
The perfection of the trolley lines enables its people to do business in Los Angeles
and has practically given the smaller city all the advantages of the larger place
while still maintaining her own restful distinctiveness.
LONG BEACH.
The town of Long Beach was started about 1882 and had, at first, a very
gradual growth. It was first known as a summer resort for those wishing a
quiet, orderly place. Its fine beach gave it a strong attraction. For many years
the Methodists held their annual campmeeting here. The Chautauqua Associa
tion adopted it as their center, also, and a large pavilion to accommodate their
summer assemblies was erected about 1890. The town has always been a " no
license '' place and still remains so. It was incorporated in 1888 and disincor
porated in 1896. The following year it was reincorporated and in 1907 adopted
a freeholder's charter. In 1900 it had a population of 2252; in 1906 when the
census was taken for the charter election, the population' was 12,591, and 15,000
is now claimed. The town has taken on new life since the completion of the
trolley line and has made a record for building and improvements of every
character.
An inland harbor is being constructed here and a large shipping plant
is in course of construction. With the completion of these improvements Long
Beach will become an important shipping center.
POMONA.
In 1874 the Los Angeles Land and Water Company, of which Thomas
A. Garey, C. E. White, L. M. Holt, Milton Thomas, R. M. Town and H. G.
Crow were members, purchased from J. S. Philips, a tract of land which had
been a part of the San Jose grant, made to Jose Palomares. The company
secured water rights from the Palomares heirs and also put down four artesian
wells from which a considerable flow was obtained. A town site was laid
out and the land surrounding it was divided into tracts. In February, 1876.
an auction sale of these lots was held which resulted in disposing of $19,000
worth of land — a surprising feat for that time. A number of houses were
built and orchards set out and a little town grew up. In 1877 a fire almost
destroyed the settlement and for some time the place did not recover itself.
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 117
The Southern Pacific reached the town in 1876. In 1882 the Pomona Land
and \Yuter Company was formed and by vigorous action placed the irrigation
system upon a sounder basis and secured an increased supply of water. Like
all Southern California towns, Pomona experienced rapid growth during the
years of 1886-1887, and many new buildings were put up at that time. A
handsome hotel, the Palomares, was built ; banks, school houses and street
improvements added. The town was incorporated in 1888. Claremont was
started in 1887, its chief inducement for the prospective buyer being a very
handsome " boom " hotel. This was later made the seat of Claremont College,
one of thy largest preparatory schools in this part of the state. The town is
practically a part of Pomona.
In 1889 the beautiful statue of Pomona was presented to the city by one
of her pione< r residents, Rev. C. F. Loop. Pomona is the center of a very rich
farming section and of the finest citrus orchards in the country. Its shipments
of fruit, both fresh and canned or dried, is very large.
WHITTIER.
About 1887 a colony of Friends from Indiana located on a tract of the
Paso de Bartolo rancho, near Ranchita, as the ranch house of Pio Pico was
known. The settlers at first devoted themselves almost exclusively to citrus
culture and the little village prospered as its orchards came into bearing.
About 1890 it was chosen as the site of the State Industrial Home, for the
accommodation of which buildings to the value of nearly a million dollars
have been erected. About 1895 the Whittier oil fields were developed and
since that date a very large amount of high-grade oil has been annually pro
duced by this section. It is estimated that the product for the last year brought
$1,000,000 into the community. In 1898 the town was incorporated. In 1900
the census gave it a population of 1,590, but it has grown very rapidly,
especially since the completion of the electric line and there are now between
five and six thousand inhabitants. A Friends' college, with an endowment of
§150,000, is maintained.
MONROVIA.
In 1886 \Y. X. Monroe laid out the townsite of Monrovia. Its beautiful
location in the foothills of the Santa Anita rancho, attracted a number of wealthy
families who built handsome homes. A large number of orange groves were
set out ; water was procured from Sawpit Canyon, and the town grew rapidly
during the boom years. It was incorporated December I2th, 1887. Like all
Los Angeles county towns it has taken on a new lease of life within the past
few years. The completion of the electric line to the place in 1906 gave an
added impetus to its growth. It now claims 4,000 inhabitants.
118 CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY
SAN PEDRO.
In 1849 but a single building stood upon the bluff, known as Timm's
landing. About this point a little settlement grew up in the early fifties ; a
wharf was built and a warehouse and some stores and residences followed.
But in 1858 General Phineas Banning, who handled most of the stage and freight-
TIMM'S LANDING.
ing business from the port, started a new town some six miles to the north
and for a time the first town languished. However, after the building of the
railroad in 1869, the old settlement revived. In 1888 the town was incorporated.
The completion of the Terminal road and the extension of the Southern Pacific
service gave improved facilities. The vast sums of money expended by the
government in improving the harbor have also been of great benefit in building
up the town of San Pedro. It is now the most important port in California.
after San Francisco, and the volume of business carried on through the place is
constantly increasing. Since the building of an electric line in 1905, a large
addition to the business has been made and many public improvements have
been undertaken.
WILMINGTON.
In 1858 Phineas Banning, J. G. Downey and B. D. Wilson purchased a
tract of land and laid out the town of " New San Pedro." A wharf and ware
house was built here and all the business of the Banning Company was trans
ferred to this point. A reservation was donated to the government for barracks.
Here Drum Barracks was built, and from the beginning of the civil war until 1865
or later, large numbers of troops passed through this port and were garrisoned
here. It was the miltary headquarters, at that time, for this section and Arizona.
CONDENSED HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 119
In 1863 the name was changed by act of the legislature to Wilmington and
in 1874 the government changed the name of the port to Wilmington, which
is still the official title of the harbor. In 1864 General Banning established the
ll'iliniiigton Journal, the first paper in the county outside of Los Angeles.
It was a well put up and newsy sheet. As the starting point for stages for
Los Angeles, San Bernardino and Arizona points, Wilmington was a lively
place during the later sixties.
In 1873 Wilson College, endowed by B. D. Wilson, was opened and for
a number of years prospered, under the Rev. Dr. Campbell. The building
was 'a large two-story house, which accommodated a number of boarding pupils.
The rebuilding of " Old San Pedro " took away the prestige of Wilmington.
The. town which had been incorporated in 1872, repealed its incorporation in
1887 and remained a village until 1905, when it was reincorporated as a city
of the sixth class.
The improvement of the harbor has greatly benefited Wilmington and a
large amount of shipping business is now clone at its wharves.
REDONDO.
The town of Redondo was started in 1887, by a company which built a
very large and handsome hotel and also supplied a wharf. The Santa Fe, after
making an attempt to secure suitable terminal facilities at Ballona Port,
determined upon Redondo as a harbor and entered the town with its railroad
in 1888. The town was incorporated in 1892. It was Breached by an electric
line in 1904 and now has two electric lines connecting it with the city. The
Pacific Light and Power plant, one of the largest in the L^nited States, is located
here. A large amount of freight is handled, especially lumber from the
coastwise steamers.
OTHER TOWNS.
Other incorporated towns not mentioned are Alhambra, Arcadia, Azusa,
Claremont, Compton, Covina, Glendale, Hermosa Beach, Hollywood, Hunt-
ington Park, Sierra Madre, Vernon and Watts. Many of these have grown up
within the past four or five years, a number of them, as Claremont, Hermosa
Beach, Huntington Park, Sierra Madre and Watts have been incorporated
within the past year.
HON. JOHN P. JONES.
History of Santa Monica Bay Cities.
CHAPTER I.
SANTA MONICA BAY REGION.
THE BAY OF SAXTA MONICA extends along the coast from Point
Vicente, latitude 33° 40' to Point Dume. latitude 34° a distance of seven
teen miles, north by west. The coast line of the bay makes an inward
sweep which is some ten miles deep at its extreme point, in the neighborhood
of Port Los Angeles, and includes an area of 25,000 miles. The waters of this
bay are, ordinarily, quiet since the force of the waves is broken by the seaward
islands and the deep, recessed position of the shore line. The depth of the
water increases from the beach outward with an easy and gradual slope for
several miles.
The shore line is most varied. At its northern extremity, Point Dume
rises, domelike, to a height of 200 feet, and back of it the Santa Monica range
rises abruptly almost from the waters of the shore to a height of 2,000 feet
and forms the northern border of the bay. Gradually the slope falls into the
palisades and sinks to the sand dunes and the Ballona lagoon, then rises again
into low hills along the southern rim. Back from the palisades sweep the gently
rising plateaus of the San Vicente and San Jose de Buenos Ayres ranches.
Southward extend the cienegas and pastures of the Ballona creek district and
the low, rolling ranges of the Sausal Redondo and San Pedro region.
The Santa Monica Bay territory thus includes a large variety of scenery,
a most varied topography and a wide range of resources. Its mountains fur
nish an invaluable water supply ; the greater part of its lower lands are readily
supplied with water from wells, while a considerable portion of the region needs
no irrigation and includes some of the most valuable farming land in Los An-
geles county. The distinctive topography of this district accounts for a climate
which is incomparable, since it has all the advantages of both coast and inland
— the freshness of the ocean air, with the freedom from harsh winds, of the
interior.
122
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIFS
DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION.
The first explorer of the California coast, Cabrillo, after spending six days
in San Diego Harbor, which he named San Miguel, sailed along "a mountainous
coast, overhung with smoke," landed at Catalina to which he gave the name
of Victoria, then anchored in a bay which he called "Bahia de Fumos'' (Bay of
smoke), San Pedro Bay and, on October 9, 1542 he dropped anchor in an
"ensanada" or bight which is generally granted to have been Santa Monica
Bay. At just what point he anchored is not known, but undoubtedly Cabrillo
was the first European to observe the palisades, the fair fields and gentle rolling
hills that mark this coast. After this brief visit there is no record of vessel
or visitor to this region for more than two hundred years.
ARCH-ROCK. DISINTEGRATED AND FELL 1906.
The waters of the bay were sometimes disturbed by the rude boats of the
Santa Barbara Channel and Island Indians ; the valleys adjacent to the coast
and the Santa Monica mountains were the homes of a people who have long
since disappeared and of whose existence we know only by the occasional un
covering of skeletons and relics. Several caves and mounds containing cur
ious collections of implements, weapons and bones have been found on the
Malibu ranch at various times. These Indians roamed over the plains and
through the cienegas, killing rabbits and small game and gathering acorns and
grasses, roots and berries. They also fished along the shore, mostly with nets,
and gathered shells — their most prized possession. It is said that these shells
were particularly abundant along the shore where Ocean Park and Venice now
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 123-
stand and that th<- Indians from the interior and from Catalina used to visit this
spot to secure shells which took the place of money with them.
Vizcaino describes the Indians seen along the coast of California during
his explorations early in the seventeenth century as of good form and of active
character, the men wearing a short cloak made of rabbit or deer skins, htavily
fringed, the more industrious having their garments embroidered with shells.
He describes a rancheria seen along the shore in this vicinity as composed of
about twenty houses made of rushes over a frame of poles driven into the ground.
These were very like the brush ramadas still constructed by the Indians of
California. Bancroft states that the Indians of Los Angeles county ate coyotes,
skunks, wildcats and all sorts of small animals. They would not eat bear meat
or the flesh of large game for superstitious reasons. They were poor hunters
having no effective weapons, and hunted deer by hiding themselves under a
skin with the head and horns intact, until they were within bowshot. They
made fishhooks, needles and other small articles of bone and shell, ground their
acorns and seeds in a metate, or stone mill, and constructed wooden boats or
tule rafts for their fishing expeditions, using seines made of tough bark.
THE NAM ic.
The Indians were the only occupants of the coast for some time after the
beginnings of settlement had been made at San Gabriel and Los Angeles. It
is claimed that the party of Captain de Portala, which made the first overland
expedition through California in 1769 in search of the Bay of Monterey, passed
through a canada near the present location of the Soldier's Home and paused
under a group of sycamores while Fathers Crespi and Gomez, the priests ac
companying the expedition, said mass. A very old sycamore tree is pointed
out as the one where the service was performed and is still looked upon with
veneration.
\\"e have no authentic account of how the name Santa Monica came to be
applied ; but the old Spanish settlers have a legend of its origin which may be
true. The story is that a couple of Spanish soldiers were given a furlough to
explore the region about the new ."pueblo de Los Angeles." They came one
day to a couple of clear bubbling springs near the ocean. After drinking, they
threw themselves upon the ground between the springs to rest. As they lay
there on the gently sloping hillside, overlooking the wide, green plains and the
ocean, one of them asked, "And what shall we call this spot, brother?"
And the other, turning from one glistening pool to the other, answered:
"\Ye will call it Santa Monica, for the springs resemble the tears of the good
Santa Monica shed for her erring son."
The legend of Santa Monica is one of the most beautiful connected with
the saints. According to tradition the holy woman was born in Africa about
332 A. D. She was brought up so strictly that she was not allowed even a
124 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
drink of water between meals and was early married to Patricius, a gentleman
of hot and hasty temper. She had two sons and one of them Augustine, to the
great grief of his mother, would not yield to her teachings and be baptized into
the church. Instead, he was carried away by heresy and entered upon an
immoral life. The mother spent much of her time in praying for and weeping
over the wayward son. For many years she sorrowed and once, in her despair,
she went to a good bishop and related her woes. " Wait," the bishop told her,
" and keep on praying. The child of so many tears cannot perish."
At last the son fell ill and came near death. He recovered, however, in
answer to his mother's prayers and this so softened his heart that at last he
saw the error of his ways and became a devout believer, finally becoming the
great Saint Augustine.
Whether we accept this legend or not, the bay and the region were certainly
named for the good Santa Monica, whose day in the calendar was May 4th.
The name does not seem to appear upon record until the petition for the grant
known as San Vincente y Santa Monica was made by Don Francisco Sepulveda
and Augustin Machado in 1827. The springs mentioned in the legend, later
known as San Vincente springs were included in this grant.
SETTLEMENT.
What is commonly known as the Santa Monica Bay region includes por
tions of four land grants, Malibu— extending twenty-two miles along the coast
to the north ; Boca de Santa Monica, including the mouth of Santa Monica
Canyon ; San Vicente y Santa Monica, which had an ocean frontage of a mile
and a half and extended back four miles from the coast, covering an area of
about 40,000 acres ; and La Ballona rancho, with an ocean frontage of four
miles.
For nearly three quarters of a century after the first settlement was made
on the Malibu tract in 1804, or possibly earlier, this entire region was given
over to grazing herds of cattle and sheep and to grain raising, on a small scale.
The haciendas of the grant owners were each a little community in itself and
the simple, pastoral life of the Spanish occupation lingered, to an unusual degree
until the final breaking up of these ranchos, during the past twenty-five years.
Bill life in those slow-moving days, while not as strenuous as in our day
of perpetual rush and change, had its occupations, its interests and its amuse
ments. Most of these rancheros were also residents of Los Angeles and took
an active part in municipal and territorial affairs. At their country homes they
were surrounded by a large retinue of relations, retainers and servants, the
latter mostly Indians. All of these were under the protection and command
of the head of the house and all were fed, clothed, and provided for. The
number of people about his place was a matter of pride with the ranchero.
HISTORY OF SANTA .MONICA BAY CITIES 125
And the days on one of these large stock ranges were not all "siesta" by
any means. Herds and flocks must be guarded from thieves and the ravages
of wild beasts ; they must be shifted from plain to valley, from coast to moun
tain-side, as the season demanded. There were rodeos, the annual rounding-up
of stock, to attend and sometimes a large cattle owner must be present at several
of these affairs in order to secure all of his stock. The rnatanza, or slaughter
ing, was a busy season requiring careful selection of animals and good judg
ment in bargaining with the traders of the hide droghers ; sheep-shearing was
another period of arduous labor ; the tanning of hides, the rendering of tallow
and the harvesting of grain all demand due attention. There were dry seasons
when losses were heavy, and cold, wet years which were disastrous to cattle and
i->peeiaily sheep.
The greater part of the necessary supplies were raised upon the rancho,
but yearly the hides and tallow were traded with the sailing vessels that put
into San Pedro, for such supplies and luxuries as were brought from the Orient,
or from Boston. Certainly the life of those years was not without its interests.
The instability of political affairs the constaint bickering and jealously of
Monterey and Santa Barbara on the one hand, and Los Angeles and San Diego,
on the other ; the frequently changing and very uncertain orders and officials
sent from Mexico, all of these afforded pretty steady excitement in Los Angeles.
And Los Angeles seems never to have been a really dull place — even in its
sleepiest days. There was generally something doing — if it was only a murder
before breakfast. For amusements there were balls and weddings, horse races
and bull fights and the various fiestas of the church.
The ranches near the coast were not as exposed to depredations from the
dreaded "desert" Indians as were the more interior locations, but there are still
traditions of lively scraps with bands of thieving Indians on the Malibu and the
San Vicente, and there is at least one " encino del Indias " located on the
palisades where an Indian horse thief was hanged without legal preliminaries.
TOPANGA MALIBU.
The first land grant in this vicinity was that known as Topanga Malibu
made in 1805 to Don Jose Bartolemeo Tapia. A deed executed in 1845 anc^
recorded in the county records states that July 12, 1805, the "Governor o\ Loreto,"
then Governor of California decreed that certain " pasajes " which are called
Malibu, Topango, Sottome, Simi and Sequit, be granted to Jose Bartolemeo
Tapia. This deed further states that April 18, 1824, the property passed into
hands of Seiior Tapia's heirs, Tomaso, Fernando, Juan Antonio and Tiburcio
Tapia. The property is described as bounded on the north by the " Sierra Mayor,
on the south, F,l Mar Oceano Pacifico; the east by Rancho Santa Monica and
the west by el Rio de San Buena Ventura." In 1848 it passed into the pos-
126
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
session of Maria Villeboso and Victor Leon Pruclliomme for " cuatro cientos
pesos " — four hundred dollars.
The Malibu grant, with its almost impassable mountain ranges, extending;
into the very ocean, its inacessible canyons, its hidden mesas and wildernesses,
has always been a land of mystery and many romantic stories of smuggling, of
buried treasure, of robbery and murder have been connected with it.
The first grantee, Jose B. Tapia, must have stocked the place, as he willed
it with its "ganado" or cattle, to his heirs. His son Tiburcio occupied the place,
probably during the twenties and thirties and it is said buried a couple of chests
of his abounding coin somewhere on the ranch. Tiburcio Tapia was one of the
most interesting char
acters of earlier Los
Angeles history.
Born in San Luis
Obispo, w here his
father was then act
ing as Alcalde, in
1789, he became a
soldier. In 1824. he
was a corporal of the
guard at Purisima at
the time of an In
dian uprising which
threatened the mas
sacre of the entire
Spanish population.
With four or five men, Tapia defended the families and the padres during the
night and only surrendered when the powder gave out. It is said that the rebels
offered to spare Tapia, if he would give up his arms, but he declined the pro
position.
Soon after this he must have removed to Los Angeles, where he was one
of the earliest merchants. Alfred Robinson says of him, "We stopped at the
house of Don Tiburcio Tapia, the Alcalde Constitutional (Constitutional Judge)
of the city, who was once a common soldier but who, by honest and industrious
labor has amassed so much of this world's goods as to make him one of the
wealthiest inhabitants of the place. His strict integrity gave him credit to any
amount with the trading vessels, so that he was the principal merchant and the
only native one in "el Pueblo cle Los Angeles."
Don Tiburcio filled many positions of trust. In 1827, which must have
been soon after his location in Los Angeles, he was chosen with Juan Bandini,
Romualdo Pacheco and four other prominent citizens to act as vocale or member
to represent the southern district in the territorial diputacion which convened
TOPANGA.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 127
at Monterey, the legislative body of that time. Don Tiburcio was mack a mem
ber of the committee on police regulations, which must have been one of the
most important subjects under consideration in those days. His record makes
it appear that Serior Tapia was something of a politician, or so it would seem
now-a-days ; but we are assured that in the early days of Los Angeles the office
had to seek the man and sometimes went begging for an occupant, so we must
put Senor Tapia down as one of the most self-sacrificing and public spirited
citizens Los Angeles ever had. He was re-elected vocale twice. In 1831 he
was alcalde (mayor) of Los Angeles; in 1833 he was "sindico," recorder; in
1835 "encargado cle Indians"; 1836, alcalde — second alcalde — it took two mayors
to keep things moving; In 1839 he was alcalde again and was also confirmed in
the grant of the Cucamonga Rancho by governor Alvarado. In 1840 he was
one of the five substitute judges elected by the junta, or superior court. In
1844 he again served the city as alcalde.
He must have been a busy man, as the leading merchant of the town and
as one of the owners of the Topanga Malibu and, at the same time he was
making extensive improvements on the Cucamonga Rancho, where he built a
residence. It is said that as rumors of American designs upon California be
came rife, Don Tiburcio became alarmed for his store of coin, which was un
usually large for that period. He is said to have carried much of it to Cucamongo
and buried it, and there are also stories of other chests of it hidden on the
Malibu. Whatever treasures of silver and gold he may have stowed away, did
him no good, for he died suddenly in 1845 ar>d it seems to have been lost to
his family. He left one daughter, Maria Merced, who later married Leon
V". Prudhomme, one of the early French settlers of Los Angeles, and who is
still living in that city.
An interesting tale of an early smuggling episode is also related to Malibu
history. According to Bancroft, in 1819, a couple of American vessels, strongly
suspected of smuggling intentions, were cruising along the coist of Southern
California. One of these ships was signalled off the coast of the Malibu and
induced to make a landing. Two men, Antonio Briones, who is stated to have
been a claimant for the Malibu grant at one time, and Maximo Alanis, who
was later the grantee of the Buenos Ayres Rancho, induced the smugglers to
land their goods, then seized the sailors and declared that they would turn them
over to the authorities unless a ransom of $1000 was paid to them. As their
captors had conclusive evidence, the captain was about to pay over his thousand
dollars, when one of the guard " celebrated " too soon and in his happy oblivion
allowed the prisoners to escape. The booty, however, remained in the hands
of Briones and Alanis, who decided to say nothing to the authorities about the
little matter and keep the goods to recoup themselves for the ransom money
they had lost. But the officials of that day seem to have had their eyes open
128 'HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
and in some way discovered the mysterious doings on the Malibu coast.
Briones and Alanis were arrested, the goods confiscated and these brilliant
" promoters " of 1819 were imprisoned for six months in chains. It is to be
hoped that somebody finally paid the duty on the consignment.
In later years the Malibu was the favorite rendezvous of an extensive band
of horse and cattle thieves. The early records of Los Angeles county contain
many accounts of exciting chases and arrests made in the fastnesses of the
Malibu, or Malaga, region. Don Tiburcio Tapia seems to have been a
remarkable exception in his family, for the name Tapia appears almost as
frequently in the criminal records as did Don Tibur-
cio's in the political records of an earlier day.
In the early sixties, the Malibu grant passed
through tax sale into the hands of Mathew Keller,
A-sr-j better known in those days as " Don Mateo." Mr.
^^^(•StJL^ Keller was born in Ireland and came to America at
^1 an early date. After living in Mexico for a time,
he came to California and located in Los Angeles
about 1850, becoming one of its best known and
most prominent citizens. He was one of the first to
engage in wine-making and to plant out an exten
sive vineyard, for which he imported stock from
France. He devoted a great deal of attention
DON MATED KELLER. to the cultivation of the grape and was also in
terested in the early experiments in raising cot-
ion. At one time he had a complete ginning outfit set up in Los Angeles
and offered its use to any one who would raise cotton. He made a thor
ough study of the process of making wine of different varieties and manu
factured it in large quantities. He established houses in Los Angeles and
San Francisco and was instrumental in introducing California wines in the
east on a large scale, having extensive connections in New York for the hand
ling of his 'own manufacture.
He put up a large ranch house on the Malibu and made improvements
there and when he died in 1881 he left the grant to his son, Henry \V. Keller,
formerly of Santa Monica, who sold it in 1891 to the late Frederick H. Rindge.
FREDERICK HASTINGS RINDGE was born in Cambridge, Mass., December
21 st, 1857. He was a descendant of the Puritan stock which has furnished
so large a portion of the best blood and ablest brains of our country.
Among his ancestors were Daniel Rindge, who commanded the Ipswich troops
in the campaign which destroyed King Philip, of the Naragansett ; Samuel
Baker, one of the minute men who marched to the relief of Lexingtotn in 1775,
and Daniel Harrington, a resident of Lexington who served through the Revolu-
FREDERICK HASTINGS RINDGE
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 129
tionary war with distinction, retiring with the rank of captain. His father,
Samuel Baker Rinclge was a merchant of very large estate, which he used most
wisely. His mother, Clarissa Harrington, was a woman of fine character.
Frederick- Rindge was the only surviving child of his parents and was left
in a weakened state by an attack of scarlet fever in his childhood. His education
was conducted with especial care and while still a youth he traveled extensively,
visiting California in 1870 and during 1871-2 visiting many places of interest
in Europe. He completed his preparation for college under Dr. James Laurence
Laughlin and entered Harvard in 1875. Owing to illness, he was forced to
leave college in his last year; but several years later he was given his degree.
Soon after leaving college he succeeded to his father's estate, and at once entered
upon an active business career which proved him to possess unusal qualities of
good judgment and executive ability; although his character and tastes were
strongly inclined to a studious life.
He visited California again in 1880, in search of health, and returned to
New England with renewed strength. For a number of years he devoted him
self to the management of his large commercial interests in Massachusetts. As
a testimonial of his love for his birthplace, he erected and presented to the city
of Cambridge a city hall and, later, built for the city a beautiful public library
building. He established there, and for ten years maintained, the Rindge
Manual Training School for boys — the first manual training school in the
state.
On May 27, 1887, he was married to Miss Rhoda May Knight, of Trenton,
Michigan, daughter of James and Rhoda Lathrop Knight. They were the par
ents of three children, Samuel Knight, Frederick Hastings and Rhoda Agatha.
In 1887, he came to California to make his permanent home. He soon
settled upon Southern California as his place of residence. In January, 1891,
he purchased property on Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica and at once built a
handsome residence. This home was occupied by the family, in conjunction
with the ranch house on the Topanga Malibu until they removed to Los
Angeles in 1903.
In 1891 Mr. Rinclge purchased the property commonly known as the Malibu
ranch, a Spanish land grant originally made to Jose B. Tapia in 1804, and later
belonging to Don Mateo Keller. The original property extended along the
coast northwesterly from Las Flores canyon for twenty miles. To this Mr.
Rindge added other tracts until he owned a strip of land extending along the
sea coast for twenty-four miles. Beautiful "pasages" or valleys ; fertile mesas,
stretches of magnificent beach, lofty peaks and ridges, gave a wonderful variety
of scenery and climate to this rancho. Mysterious caves, almost inaceesible can
yons, groves of ancient oak and sycamore lent romance and charm. It is not
strange that Mr. Rindge, with his poetical tendency of thought and spiritual
130 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
trend of mind, found here his ideal home and loved this historical rancho — not
as property — but as a divine inheritance. He built here a home that was per
fect in its adaptation to the environment and he spent here some of his happiest
hours. His book, "Happy Days in Southern California" is largely a tribute
to his life upon the Malibu, although it deals with other aspects of California
life also.
But while he sought rest and inspiration in the seclusion of his ranch
home, Mr. Rindge never shut himself out from active participation in business
and public affairs. During the years of his residence in this state, from 1888
to 1905, probably no other man was ever connected with so many and such
large and varied interests. His investments were made not only with a view
to the increase of his own wealth but, very largely, for the purpose of develop
ing the resources of this country and thus giving opportunity to men of lesser
means. For this reason he was a moving factor in a large number of companies
organized to develop water and reclaim land, and in various other enterprises.
Among the most important of thes<\ was the Conservative Life Insurance Com
pany, of which he was president. Mr. Rindge, believing that a man should
make his gifts while living, was a man of large yet unostentatious benevolences.
He gave liberally to the Methodist church of which he was long a consistent
member, being of a deeply religious nature. He aided many institutions, both
in California and in New England, and lent a helping hand to many individuals.
He was discriminating in his charities — as a man of such great wealth must be
— if he is to be a power for good rather than for evil.
While living in Santa Monica, Mr. Rindge closely associated himself with
the life of the community. In 1895 he offered to erect and donate a church
building to the Methodist society, provided the church would support a pastor
and pay all incidental expenses. In consequence, a neat and commodious church,
still in use, was built at a cost of $15,000 and dedicated before the end of the
year. He took an active personal interest in the campaign which was made
by the advocates of temperance and by the better class of business men to rid
the town of saloons, speaking at the meetings and offering to indemnify the
city treasury for the loss of revenue derived from the saloon licenses. Accord
ingly, after the "anti-saloon" party carried the election, he presented his check
for $2,500 to Mr. Robert F. Jones, then mayor of Santa Monica. He served
for several years upon the school board of the town, was president of the Good
Government League, and was a member of various local organizations.
In 1903 the ranch house on the Malibu, with all its furnishings, including
a part of Mr. Rindge's fine library, was destroyed by fire. About this time
the family removed to Los Angeles where Mr. Rindge had erected a handsome
house on Harvard Boulevard, in a section of the city he had helped to develop.
On locating in Los Angeles, he identified himself with the Westlake M. E.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 131
church, to which he contributed liberally. He was also deeply interested in the
Young Men's Christian Association, being an active member and aiding largely
in lifting the debt which for many years hung over the Los Angeles association.
He was one of the originators of the Ocean Park Y. M. C. A. Company, which
started the town of Ocean Park.
As a relaxation from his many cares, Mr. Rindge gave much attention to
scientific research and the study of the early history of America and of California.
He was a member of the New England Historical and Geneaological Society
and of the Archaeological Institute of America. His collection of coins and
of aboriginal arts was of such value that he was induced to place them
in the loan exhibit of the Peabody Museum, at Harvard College, and also in
the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. He gathered a large amount of material
bearing on Pacific coast archaeology and his collection of memorials of California
history was unequalled among private collections.
In acknowledgement of the honor conferred upon him through his fore
bears, he became a member of the Society of Colonial Wars and also of the Sons
of the Revolution. He was president of the Harvard Club of Los Angeles,
troin the time of its formation until his death.
The death of Mr. Rindge, which occurred August 2gth, 1905, was in one
sense, untimely. He was a comparatively young man and was in the midst of
an active and useful life. Yet his existence had been a long struggle with
weakness and his spirit was full-grown. Death may come at any time to such
a man and we cannot say that it is premature. To his family, to his friends — all
over the United States, to the public generally, his departure meant a great
loss and a great grief. But to himself it was only a passing on to a
higher life.
It was well said of his career : "Asa business man, as a church leader,
as a Y. M. C. A. president, as a consistent worker for the development of
the city and the state, Mr. Rindge made himself so useful that no othei man
can take his place. He was a rich man ; but he employed his wealth for the
greatest good of the greatest number — not in selfish pleasure nor for personal
aggrandizement. He was a man of strong religious convictions; but the grace
of humility and a broad understanding prevented his religion from degenerat
ing into religiosity. A staunch, steadfast, unassuming man, with all of his
millions, those who differed from him in opinion could admire his fidelity to
his ideals ; and those not blessed with money could be glad that such a fortune
was entrusted to worthy hands."
Knowing intimately the affairs and purposes of her husband, Mrs. Rindge,
as executrix of the estate, is carrying forward with a steady hand the large
enterprises which her husband had undertaken.
132
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
SAN VICENTE Y SANTA MONICA.
It is probable that the rich grazing lands in the vicinity of Santa Monica
were utilized early after the establishment of " el Pueblo de Los Angeles," for
the herds of the settlers and of the missions multiplied with amazing rapidity
and by 1800 the grazing land in the immediate vicinity of Los Angeles and
San Gabriel was overstocked. After the granting of the Malibu, however, we
have no record of settlement in this neighborhood until 1827 when Francisco
Sepulveda and Augustin Machaclo, settlers of Los Angeles, petitioned for a
tract of land. According to the testimony of Jose Antonio Carrillo, who was
alcalde in 1828, he received an order from "the
Hon. Jose Maria Echandia, a Political Chief, issued
by virtue of a petition of several citizens, requesting
to be placed in provisional possession of the com
mon lands of the city held by them."
Amongst these, he gave possession to Francisco
Sepulveda of the lands known as San Vicente, with
a piece of pasture (potrero) named Santa Monica.
"The order of Gov. Echandia only had reference
to parties who owned one hundred and fifty head
of cattle, and as Sepulveda came within this con
dition it was especially commanded to give him
this land, with the adjoining potrero of Santa
Monica." But the boundaries of the lands thus
given possession of were not defined and there
was soon dispute as to the territory included.
December 2Oth, 1839, a title was issued to the rancho called San Vicente
and Santa Monica, in favor of Don Francisco Sepulveda, "with the con
dition of abiding whatever actions should be had thereon, in case such land
may be comprised within the limits of the City of Los Angeles." This grant
was made by Governor Alvarado ; but it still did not settle the question of
boundary which was disputed on all sides. In 1840 Sepulveda petitioned the
governor to place him in " pacific possession of the property, as Francisco
Marquez and Ysidro Reyes have given a bad example of disobedience and that
under the strength of discordant documents they remain in possession of the
place called Santa Monica." In 1846 Governor Pico confirmed Sepulveda's
grant, but as Marquez and Reyes also had a grant to the " potrero " of Santa
Monica, the dispute over the boundaries continued and was not settled until the
question came into the United States courts and after long litigation was decided.
The San Vicente y Santa Monica grant was finally confirmed July 23rd, 1881, to
include 30,259 acres instead of the 58,409 acres originally claimed.
JOSE DOLORES SEPULVEDA.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
133
Aside from the question of boundaries, there has been much litigation over
the possession of the San Vicente lands. On the death of Don Francisco, the
property was left to his wife and children, and several lawsuits were necessary
in the family before the lands were satisfactorily divided.
Don Francisco Sepulveda, the original grantee, with two brothers, were
among the earliest settlers of California. He was first a soldier in San Diego,
but in 1815 was a citizen of Los Angeles, cultivating pueblo lands. The
Sepulveda family has played an important part in the history of Southern
California and is connected with many of the best families of today. Don
Francisco had a large family. One of his sons, Don Jose, was grantee of the
San Joaquin rancho and took a leading part in early local and political affairs.
He was the father of
Judge Ygnacio Sepulveda
and Mrs. Thomas Moct.
Don Francisco built a
ranch house near the San
Vicente springs in 1837.
Here he set out vineyards
and orchards and at least
three of his sons resided
with him or built houses
near by. These were Juan
Maria, Carmel and Do
lores. Traces of these
buildings can still be
seen, although the original ranch houses have all disappeared. The last
home of Dolores Sepulveda, built in 1863, an adobe house well preserved
and very typical of the ranch house of early days, still stands. At one end
is a very old walnut tree and back of it stand the twin sycamores which have
long been a landmark.
Don Francisco also had a home in Los Angeles and was frequently con
cerned in municipal affairs. In 1824 he was " regidor " or recorder, of the
pueblo ; later he was alcalde and on the secularization of the missions, he was
made administrator of San Juan Capistrano. In 1831 he was one of the
victims of Governor Victoria's arbitrary orders and with Tomas Talmantes,
Jose Maria Avila, Maximo Alanis, Demisio Dominguez and Jose Aguilar,
was imprisoned for supposed implication in the removal of the presiding
alcalde, Vicente Sanchez, whom the citizens of Los Angeles had removed from
office, because of alleged incompetence to hold the position, and whom they
refused to restore to the alcaldeship when Victoria so ordered.
The Sepulveda family were given to horse racing, as appears from various
SAX VICENTE RANCH HOUiSE.
G. WILEY WELLS.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 135
records. There seems to have been bitter rivalry between the Sepulvedas
and the Picos, in the matter of horses. In 1840, according to Bancroft, a
horse race took place between animals owned by Andreas Pico and Fernando
Sepulveda, a minor. The result led to a dispute and a suit against Sepulveda
for the stakes. The father was finally forced to pay the stake by Alcalde
Lugo. The matter was appealed to the governor, who on the advice of the
judges of the first district, decided that Lugo must pay back the stakes and be
suspended from office until he should do so. Lugo refused to be suspended,
or to pay the stakes, except after legal proceedings by the junta. He claimed
that the governor and the Monterey judge had acted as partisans, and that
they had made many blunders and that the affair was none of their business, any
how, but belonged to the superior tribunal, and if there was no such body, it
was their own fault. He said that Francisco Sepulveda was present at the race
and had in other races paid his son's losses without objection. The final
decisions of this interesting case does not appear on record ; but it is evident
that the affair led to a long and bitter trial of horse-flesh between the Picos
and Sepulvedas.
In 1852, a race took place which has become historical. The Picos owned
a gelding which had beaten every other animal put up against it. Jose
Sepulveda, after repeated losses, was eager to seize any chance to " down "
Pico's horse. While on a trip to San Diego, he saw a mare which attracted
his attention. It proved to be an English thoroughbred, just brought over from
Australia. He at once negotiated for the animal, it is said, offering to pay
the owners ten thousand dollars for her. He returned north and made the
arrangement for a race of three leagues, at San Pedro, to be run to a stake and
back again. Excitement ran high and on the day of the race the entire
population of the country, with visitors from Santa Barbara and even Monterey,
and all San Diego, were present. The horse was to be ridden California style,
the rider strapped to his bare back and the owners and backers permitted to
ride beside him and use the whip. The mare was equipped in the American
style, with light racing saddle and a little jockey.
Betting ran high. It was the custom among Californians to hand over
the sum of money bet to the taker. After the race, the holder kept the money,
if he won, or returned it double, if he lost. No papers or guarantees were
necessary, for a California's word was as good, or better, than a bond. On
this occasion the Californians all bet heavily on Pico's horse, while the Amer
icans backed Don Jose's Black Swan. The Swan, after a terrific struggle,
won, and it is said Sepulveda won nearly fifty thousand dollars. After the
race was over, he took the bridle from the mare and declared that she should
never again wear bridle or saddle, and he kept his word. She passed the rest
136
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
of her life free upon the plains. He had won from the Pico's — that was triumph
enough.
Another instance of the horsemanship of the family is related by Major
Horace Bell in his " Reminiscences of a Ranger." He describes a rodeo held in
May, 1853, at San Joaquin rancho, the home of Don Jose Sepulveda. On the
third night of the affair at midnight Don Jose and his brother Don Fernando
were still talking gaily with their guests. A little later a messenger arrived
with the news that their aged father, Don Francisco Sepulveda, was about to
pass away. The brothers at once mounted. Major Bell and another American
decided to accompany them, although warned that they could not keep up. As
Don Jose was then sixty years of age, they felt confident that they would be able
to hold their own ; but before the party reached Los Nietos, the Sepulvedas had
disappeared in a cloud of dust and the Americans drew rein, having ridden
forty-three miles in three hours.
BOCA DE SANTA MONICA.
One of the earliest settlers in the pueblo de Los Angeles was Francisco
Reyes, who came with a party in 1785. Very soon thereafter he must have
taken possession of
lands in the vicinity
of San Fernando,
for in 1797 the
Rancho Encino
held by him was
taken from him and
both land and build
ings appropriated to
the San Fernando
Mission. His son,
Ysidro, was born i;i
Los Angeles and in
1828 he, with Fran-
FIRST HOUSE IN SANTA MONICA, BUILT BY FRANCISCO MARQUEZ.
cisco Marquez was
given a provisional
grant to lands already occupied by them for grazing purposes in the Santa
Monica Canyon. This grant was known as the " Boca de Santa Monica "
(the mouth of Santa Monica). The land included in it was later claimed
to be a part of Santa Monica potrero granted to Francisco Sepulveda. In
1839, Governor Alvarado investigated the conflicting claims and regranted
each tract to the original holders. Still the question of the boundary was
disputed and was not finally disposed of until about 1880, when the United
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 137
States courts fixed the limits of the Boca de Santa Monica and July 2ist, 1882,
a patent for 6,656 acres of land was confirmed to Marquez and Reyes.
Ygnacio Reyes built a ranch house in Rustic Canyon and the family have
continuously occupied the land since 1824, part of the grant still being owned
by the descendants of the original grantees. This is an unusual case for
generally the great land grants of the state have passed entirely out of the
hands of the Californians, and the families of the original claimants have
profited nothing by the marvelous increase in values.
Ygnacio Reyes also owned a home in Los Angeles, on Main street, near
Fourth, and is frequently mentioned in the annals of the town. He died there
during- an epidemic of smallpox in 1863. Three sons still survive him,
Guadalupe of Sawtelle ; Ysidro and Antonio of Los Angeles.
Francisco Marquez built his ranch house on the edge of the bluff, about
at the end of Seventh street. Here it was a landmark for many years, having
been destroyed within the past few years. Members of the family still live
in Santa Monica Canyon and retain a part of the original lands.
LA BALLONA.
La Ballona rancho, or as it was named in the original document " La
Ballena" (the whale), was formally granted to a company composed of
Augustin and Ygnacio Machado, Felipe and Tomas Talamantes, all citizens of
Los Angeles, by Governor Alvarado in 1839. There is evidence to show that
prior to this grant, a tract of land nearer to Los Angeles had been occupied by
the same citizens as a stock range but had been taken from them, either because
it was too near the city, or was needed for the stock of San Gabriel.
At any rate they received a princely domain in the fertile fields and rich
pastures of " La Ballena," and at once stocked it and built residences upon it.
The haciendas of the Machados on this ranch were among the best examples
of the California home. They are still standing — that of Augustin Machado,
a large and most substantial adobe, the walls and roof of which is still intact,
is unoccupied at present and is used as a store house. It seems a pity that this,
one of the best specimens of the early California homes should not be preserved.
The home of Ygnacio Machado, a little distance away, is now occupied by one
of his sons, Antonio, and the part which remains is in good repair and is a
fine sample of the simplicity and solidity of the genuine adobe house of the
better class. This house once contained fourteen rooms built about a court,
but a portion of these have now been removed.
The Machado brothers were prominent among early residents of Los
Angeles. They owned a tract of two acres of land in the vicinity of Second
and Main streets, where each of them had homes. Augustin Machado served
" el pueblo de Los Angeles " as alcalde, and was frequently concerned in public
138 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
affairs. He married Ramona, a daughter of Don Francisco Sepulveda, of the
San Vicente, and their home both in Los Angeles and at La Ballona, was a
center of social gaity. Of this marriage there are still living Bernardino,
Andreas and Jose de Luz, all of whom reside on Ballona lands. One son,
Dolores, died in 1906, leaving a family which resides in Ocean Park; two
daughters, Mrs. Juan Barnard and Ascencion, have recently died. Don
Augustin died in Los Angeles in 1865.
Bancroft tells this story of Don Augustin : " The merchant, Don Jose
Antonio Aguirre, owner of the Ship Joven Guipuzcoana, once had a new
supercargo, who was a stranger to and ignorant of affairs in California.
While the ship lay at San Pedro, Aguirre being absent, Augustin Machado, a
well-to-do ranchero, and a man of sterling character, but who could neither
read nor write, went on board to make purchases, his carretas being at the
landing. After selecting his goods, as he was about to place them in a launch
to be carried on shore, the sunpercargo asked him for payment, or some
guaranty or note of hand. Machado stared at him in great astonishment ; at
first he could not comprehend what the man meant. Such a demand had never
been made from him before, nor, in fact, from any other ranchero. After a
while the idea struck him that he was distrusted. Plucking one hair from his
beard, he seriously handed it to the supercargo, saying, ' Here, deliver this to
Senor Aguirre and tell it is a hair from the beard of Augustin Machado. It
will cover your responsibility — it is sufficient guaranty.' The young man,
much abashed, took the hair and placed it carefully in his books and Machado-
carried away the goods. Aguirre was chagrined on hearing the story, for
Machado's word was as good as the best bond. Jose M. Estudillo relates this
incident and also the following: In 1850 Aguirre sent Estudillo to Los
Angeles to collect old bills, many of which were outlawed ; but the greater part
of which were finally paid. He visited Machado's rancho at La Ballona, to
collect a balance of abort $4000 and happened to arrive when the house was
full of company. He was cordially received as a guest and when apprised of
the object of his visit, Machado said that he had been for some time thinking
that he was indebted to Aguirre, and promised to meet Estudillo in Los
Angeles in two days. At the time appointed Machado was there and delivered
the whole sum at the door of Manuel Requena's house, refusing to take a
receipt, saying that Aguirre was not in the habit of collecting the same
bill twice."
Ygnacio Machado married Estefania Palomares, daughter of a well-known
Spanish family of Los Angeles county. Three of their sons still survive,
Antonio, living in the old house ; Andres, who lives at Hollywood, and Cristo
bal, now in Texas. Don Ygnacio is described as a man of stern, yet generous
mold. It was his habit to rise very early and waken his household to join him-
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 139
in the morning song, with which it was the custom for all good Spanish
families to begin the day. Of Ygnacio Machado, J. J. Warner wrote in 1876:
" Don Ygnacio survives the others (of his company) — those faithful friends of
his earlier days, at the age of eighty-two, he grasps the hand as warmly as
ever, rides on horseback, as usual ; patriarch to whom the community bears
respect almost filial." The Machado brothers were widely known and deeply
respected as honorable and just men, generous and ever kind. The present
head of this branch of the family, Antonio Machado, son of Ygnacio, is a
worthy successor of his father. Simple, unassuming, courtly, of good judg
ment and kindly heart, he looks back to the old days and the care-free life of
the past with wistful eyes.
The Ballona grant of 13,919 acres was confirmed to the Machados Decem
ber 8th, 1873. It was at once divided among the members of the family and
tracts of it were sold. It comprised nearly two thousand acres of first-class
irrigable land, two thousand acres of damp lands which needed no irrigation, and
the rest was pasture land. In early days it was chiefly occupied as a stock
range, although some grain was raised and orchards of various fruits were
planted about the haciendas. The district was occupied by a number of families
in the fifties and sixties and was one of the first townships set aside, originally
including San Vicente, Boca de Santa Monica, Malibu and a large territory.
It was organized into a school district during the sixties and was a factor in
the elections of early days. During the seventies Francisco Machado, a son of
Augustin, was one of the county supervisors and political " boss " of the dis
trict. Although many prosperous American fanners are now residents of Bal-
loni lands and the towns of Palms, Ocean Park and Venice are located on lands
originally belonging to the rancho, the Machados still retain a part of the original
grant and a considerable number of native Californians are found in the vicinity.
Antonio Machado married Manuela Valuenza and has a number of children,
most of whom are still living at home. Andreas, a son of Augustin, lives on
the old Augustin Machado place and has recently built a very comfortable home.
Jose la Luz also lives in the neighborhood in a neat cottage.
In 1861 a military camp was located on La Ballona, near the creek about
three-quarters of a mile from the present town of Palms. This was made the
headquarters of the First California Volunteer Infantry, Gen. J. H. Carleton,
commanding officer. The camp was established in September, being occupied
by Company A, under Col. Latham, for whom the station was named Camp
Latham. Several companies were encamped here and at one time there were
probably 1500 men present. They were sent from here to Arizona to protect
the mail service and the camp was not occupied after 1862. A couple of soldiers
were buried here and in 1895 tneir neglected graves were remembered by the
veterans of Santa Monica, who made a special trip to decorate them.
W. D. VAWTER.
CHAPTER II.
LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS. 18701880.
UP TO 1870 the Santa Monica bay region had scarcely felt the stirring of
the new spirit brought into the country by the American occupation.
The original ranches were still intact and occupied chiefly as grazing
land, and very few Americans had obtained land holdings. Santa Monica Canon
was the one attraction of the entire coast at this time. Here a few American
families each year camped under the sycamores. In 1871 Mr. B. L. Peel erected
a large tent " to accommodate 25 or 30 families '' and over 300 visitors are
reported for one Sunday in August, drawn by a dance that " lasted all night."
With 1872, Santa Monica Canon suddenly became famous. The Express found
it of enough importance to publish the following : " Santa Monica, the Long
Branch of California, or Camp Haywarcl. Seventeen years ago Santa Monica
was selected as a summer resort by Dr. Hayward and until the last five years
he and his family were the only ones who availed themselves of its delights
and benefits. Santa Monica proper is a farm house located on the ridge one
and a half miles from where the camp is located. At this lone house the road
descends into a deep ravine or canon, at the foot of which, near the confluence
with the ocean, is a thick growth of old sycamores. Here is the camp. Beyond
stretches the Malaga ranch, the rendezvous of horsethieves. The beach between
the camp and the point affords a magnificent drive as does the shore in a south
erly direction toward " Shoo Fly Landing ", a mile or better distant. It is at
the latter place that the greater part of the asphaltum sent to San Francisco
from La Brea rancho is shipped."
In the summer of 1872 a hotel was opened at the canon and the proprietor
advertises, " Come and enjoy yourself. A week at the beach will add ten years
to your life !" Mr. John Reynolds announces in July that he will " despatch
coaches to Santa Monica every Wednesday and Saturday a.m." A small skiff
was brought around from San Pedro this summer and added to the attractions
of surf bathing, drives and picnics along the beach and up the many beautiful
canons and dancing in the " big tent." Among the diversions was the excite
ment of prospecting, as it was rumored that a rich ledge of quartz rock existed
on the beach, at a point only exposed for a few moments at low tide. The
belief was founded on the fact that some of the native Caliform'ans of the dis
trict exhibited rich rock which they claimed to have obtained from this ledge.
142 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
In September, 1872, an event took place which marks a new era in the
history of this vicinity. This was the sale of the San Vicente and Santa Monica
y San Vicente ranches by Jose del Carmen Sepulveda, and others, to Robert
S. Baker. The first sale included 38,409 acres of land and the price was reported
as $54,000.
COL. ROBERT S. BAKER, who thus became an important factor in the history
of Santa Monica, was a descendant of an old and well-known family of Rhode
Island. He came to California in 1849 and engaged in business in San Fran
cisco, being a member of the firm of Cooke and Baker, who dealt largely in
mining supplies. Later he became associated with General Beale in the cattle
and sheep business in the northern part of the state and in the Tejon country.
With his purchase of the San Vicente, he located in Los Angeles and in 1874
married Mrs. Arcadia Bandini de Stearns, widow of Don Abel Stearns, one of
the earliest American settlers of Southern California, and daughter of Juan
Bandini, one of the wealthiest and most distinguished of the early Californians.
In 1878, he built the Baker block in Los Angeles, at that time the finest business
block in the city. He owned, through his wife, the Puente and Laguna ranches
and had other large business interests. He was quiet in his tastes and made
no effort to enter into public life, but devoted his time to the management of
his large interests. He was most genial in character and he and his beautiful
wife were noted for their lavish entertainments of guests, and they at one time
and another were hosts to many distinguished people.
Colonel Baker died March nth, 1894. His wife still survives him and
is now a resident of Santa Monica, passing a beautiful old age in a modest cot
tage on Ocean avenue, although she is rated as one of the wealthiest women in
California and certainly none of the living daughters of California have had
a more romantic or interesting history than Seiiora Arcadia de Baker.
Colonel Baker at once proceeded to perfect his title to all the Sepulveda
holdings by subsequent purchases, thus obtaining: possession of a magnificent
tract of land, with a mile and a half of ocean frontage and including the San
Vicente and numerous other springs, as well as several small mountain streams.
With characteristic enterprise he began efforts to utilize his domain for some
thing beside a sheep pasture. He interested his friend, General E. F. Beale,
who was one of the earliest and most successful promoters known in California
history — so successful that President Lincoln remarked of him when he was
surveyor-general of the state in 1861, that " Beale had, indeed, become monarch
of all he surveyed." The Express of December 22nd, 1873, announces, " Gen
eral Beale has arrived here with an eastern capitalist who contemplates the
purchase of the San Vicente ranch with the view to the construction of a wharf
at Shoo Fly Landing and building a narrow-gauge road from there to the city."
This eastern capitalist seems to have fallen down, however, for in 1874 it is
stated " Col. Baker has connected with himself several wealthy Englishmen
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
143
and a well-known and distinguished Californian (Beale). They contemplate
constructing a road to Los Angeles, a branch of the Southern Transcontinental
line. Wharves are to be built and Pacific Mail steamships will land here. The
name of this embryo metropolis of the southern coast is to be Truxton." The
San Francisco Post of September, 1874, contains a glowing description of the
" Tmxton scheme " which ends by saying: " Why the Los Angeles people ever
adopted the Wilmington road to shoal water is one of those things no fellow
can find out. At two-thirds the distance they can reach deep water at the place
called Truxton, on a bay right north of Wilmington. Here, at a comparatively
SANTA MONICA BEACH. 1S78.
light expense, for wharves, they can bring ship and cars together." The plans
for Truxton included beside wharf and railway, a magnificent seaside hotel
and a townsite ; but they never seem to have gotten beyond the paper stage.
During the summer of 1874 Santa Monica Canon continued to be the chief
summer resort of the Angeleiios. Two hotels, the Morongo House and the
Seaside Hotel, kept by Wolf and Steadman, were filled with guests. Many
improvements were made in the camping arrangements and the season was a
gay one. A new resort, known as " Will Tell's " also nourished this summer
on the Ballona lagoon, almost where the Del Key hotel now stands. This was
especially attractive to sportsmen, as the lagoon was famous for its duck and
game birds, and a number of prominent Los Angeles men kept boats on the
lagoons.
At this time a road, so narrow that the wheels touched the sides of the
bank, had been worn down through the arroyo, about at the foot of the present
144 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Colorado street in Santa Monica, and a small landing was built on the shore.
Here Major Hancock shipped large quantities of brea, which was hauled by
ox teams from his Brea rancho, on small coast vessels to San Francisco. This
was the first " commerce " of Santa Monica bay.
In December, 1874, the Los Angeles papers chronicle the first visit of
United States Senator John P. Jones of Nevada. Glowing tributes were paid
the distinguished guest and much curiosity and enthusiasm over the possible
results of his advent into Southern California were indulged in. He was known
to be fabulously rich and to have railroad ambitions.
Southern California was a hotbed of railroad schemes. Already the iron
hand of the Central Pacific monopoly was being felt, although the little road
to San Pedro was then the only railroad in this en'd of the state. A transcon
tinental line south of the Central Pacific was considered absolutely certain, at
this time ; but who would build it and where it would reach the coast were
matters of the wildest speculation. San Diego was making frantic efforts to
secure railway connection of some sort and was looking hopefully forward to
the magnificent promises held out by Tom Scott, the brilliant promoter of the
Atlantic and Pacific railway scheme, of the early seventies.
The Southern Pacific was building its branch from Los Angeles eastward
and had decided to leave San Bernardino, the oldest and most important town
east of Los Angeles, off the line. Naturally she was bitter against the Southern
Pacific and was casting about for any relief in the way of transportation facili
ties. Los Angeles was eagerly watching for any movement in1 her direction
which gave promise of a competing line, although the Southern Pacific was
not yet fairly built and there was no railroad connection with San Francisco,
or with the east. Consequently, when in January, 1875, it was announced that
Senator Jones had purchased a two-thirds interest in the San Vicente rancho,
paying therefore about $150,000, and that a new railroad was assured, there
was rejoicing long and loud throughout Southern California.
The Los Angeles and Independence railroad was organized in January,
1875, with F. P. F. Temple, a banker of Los Angeles, John P. Jones, Robert
S. Baker, T. N. Park, James A. Pritchard, J. S. Slauson of Los Angeles, and
Col. J. U. Crawford, as directors.
Right of way between Los Angeles and Santa Monica was secured at once
and without difficulty, it may be added, and Col. Crawford, the engineer and
general manager of the road, at once began active operations. It was announced
that the road would be pushed through to Independence, where were located the
Panamint mines, owned by Senator Jones, and then supposed to rival the Gold
Hill district in richness. There were rumors also that the line would be carried
across Nevada to Salt Lake and the papers frequently referred to it as the
beginning and ocean terminus of a transcontinental line.
As soon as the railroad work was fairlv started the construction of a wharf
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 145
was begun. This was located near the old " Shoo Fly " landing and near the
present foot of Colorado street, where a stub of the old wharf still remains.
The first pile was driven April 22nd, 1875, and the first boat landed at the wharf
in June. This wharf was 1700 feet in length and reached a depth of thirty
feet at low tide. It was substantially built, with depot, and warehouses at
its terminus and cost about $45,000.
In the meantime, Messrs. Jones and Baker had laid out a townsite which
extended from the bluff back to Twenty-sixth street and from Montana avenue
on the north to the arroyo, or Railroad street, as it was then called, on the
south. This original plat of Santa Monica was planned on a generous scale.
The blocks were 320 by 600 feet; lots 150 by 50, with twenty- foot alleys. A
plaza, the present Seventh-street park, blocks for hotels, one on the ocean front,
the persent location of Mirimar, and one on Eighth street, facing the plaza;
for public buildings, the block between Fifteenth and Sixteenth, Nevada and
California ; also blocks for a university and a young ladies' seminary, were
reserved on the map. The ocean front was kept intact and Ocean avenue was
made 200 feet in width, the other streets and avenues 80 and 100 feet in width.
A water system had already been planned and work begun on a large reservoir
to be filled from the San Vicente springs. The slope of the land gave ample
water pressure and provided excellent natural drainage. Much of the present
desirability of Santa Monica as a residence town is due to the liberal allotment
and unequaled natural advantages of this original townsite.
The establishment of this new " commercial center of the southwest " and
the ambitious plans of its projectors, together with much wild conjecturing by
the Ix>s Angeles papers, had attracted wide attention. On the day announced
for the first sale of lots, July 15*, 1875, several hundred people gathered about
the stand on the bluff. Many of these were from Los Angeles and Southern
California points, although the only way to reach the spot was by a long and
dusty drive. The steamer, Senator, which is remembered by all old settlers,
came in from San Francisco that day with a number of parties who had come
down especially to attend this sale. This was the first landing of the Senator
at Santa Monica. It was also the last boat to land at the " old wharf."
A dry and barren plain rolled away from the bluff and there was no shade
from the blazing July sun. One board shack — the beginning of the Hotel Santa
Monica, and a few tents were the only " improvements " aside from the par
tially-built wharf, visible. The Honorable Tom Fitch, the " silver-tongued "
orator, made the great speech of the day — a speech in which he let his rich
imagination run riot, as may be gathered from the following extract :
" On Wednesday afternoon at one o'clock we will sell at public outcry to
the highest bidder, the Pacific ocean, draped with a western sky of scarlet and
gold ; we will sell a bay filled with white-winged ships ; we will sell a southern
horizon, rimmed with a choice collection of purple mountains, carved in castles
10
146 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
and turrets and domes; we will sell a frostless, bracing, warm, yet unlanguid
air, braided in and in with sunshine and odored with the breath of flowers. The
purchaser of this job lot of climate and scenery will be presented with a deed
to a piece of land 50 by 100 feet, known as ' lot A, in block 251.' The title to
the land will be guaranteed by the present owner. The title to the ocean and
the sunset, the hills and the clouds, the breath of the life-giving ozone and the
song of the birds, is guaranteed by the beneficent God who bestowed them in
all their beauty and affluence upon block 251, and attached them thereto by
almighty warrant as an incorruptible hereditament to run with the land forever.''
Of this same effort, L. T. Fisher said in the Outlook, of July 131!!, 1887:
" Under his eloquence many were led to believe that Santa Monica would at
once leap to the front as a full-fledged seaport and commercial center. In fact,
so strong was this impression that not a few prominent men of Los Angeles,
who held large possessions there, were actually afraid that the precedence of
the ' city of the Angels ' would slip away from her and be transferred to the
seacoast. And, if we may be allowed the suggestion, it would have been a good
thing for the country if it had. Here would have sprung up the great com
mercial city of Southern California. It had all the advantages of climate, drain
age and all of the best elements that should exist where a large population is
concentrated."
Hon. Joseph Lynch, Major Ben Truman and Col. T. J. Ayers, the historic
trio of Los Angeles editors, were present and also made glowing speeches as
to the future of Santa Monica and Southern California.
The first lot sold, lot M in block 173, the northeast corner of Utah and
Ocean avenue, went to E. R. Zamoyski for $50x3. Other lots on Ocean
avenue brought from $400 to $500, and the prices ran down to $75.00 for lots
back from the shore. Among the first purchasers were Major Hancock, Judge
O'Melveny, W. J. Broderick, I. W. Hellman, George Boehme, W. D. Vawter
and sons, H. T. Giroux and others. The sale continued on the ground for three
days and on Saturday an auction was held in Los Angeles. Probably about
$100,000 worth of lots were disposed of during the week.
The first building in Santa Monica was a rough board shack put up in
April by J. C. Morgan, next to the Santa Monica Hotel and used as a boarding
place for workmen. The first business house completed was that of H. T.
Giroux on Second street, still occupied by him. The first general store was
opened by W. D. Vawter, who purchased three lots on the last day of the
auction, on Fourth street between Utah and Oregon, paying $125.50 apiece for
them. Two weeks from that day his store was ready for occupancy. Later
this building was removed to Third street, where it is still used. The first
brick building in the town was built by William Rapp, on Second street, between
Utah and Oregon. It is still in use. A postoffice was established at once and
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 147
W. H. Williams served as the first postmaster, the office being located in a
building on Second street where the Union livery stable now stands.
The growth of the new town was most promising. A Los Angeles pajjer
of September i-jth thus summarizes the advance made:
" Two months since the site of Santa Monica was a plain under the do
minion of a sheepherder. Today nearly one hundred substantial houses line its
broad streets. Two hotels are overflowing with guests. Its lumber yards are
doing the business of a metropolis and dealers in coal, wood, dry-goods and
groceries are rushing about in energetic ardor to keep up their stock of goods
which are bought out as rapidly as exposed for sale. The price of town lots
continues. The fare from San Francisco is $12.00 by boat, while it is $20.00 by
continuous. The fare from San Francisco is $12.00 by boat, while it is $20 by
rail, including a stage ride of no miles (the S. P. was not yet completed)''.
Allowing for newspaper exaggeration, we may conclude that the first two
months of the new town's existence were certainly lively ones. While buildings
and business sprang up so magically, the new town also provided for the mental
and moral needs of its citizens. On October I3th, 1875, appeared the first
number of the Santa Monica Outlook, a neat and well-filled four-page weekly,
with L. T. Fisher as editor. He began at once that consistent and persistent
support of the interests of the town which can only be supplied by a first-class
local newspaper.
He records in his first number the business houses and advance already
made and the prospects for the future. Some extracts from early numbers
of the Outlook will give a clear idea of the new town. " On the I5th of July,
1875, the first lot was sold at Santa Monica. At the date of this writing, October
nth, 1875, six hundred and fifteen lots have been sold by the land company
for $131,745 ; 119 houses and shops have been erected. The water of San Vicente
springs has been collected in two large reservoirs, forming pretty lakes in the
proposed park, and the flow of half a million gallons per day is in process of
being distributed in iron mains all over the townsite." — Outlook, October I3th,
" Santa Monica continues to advance. We now have a wharf where the
largest Panama steamers have landed ; a railroad completed to Los Angeles ;
a telegraph station, a newspaper, postoffice, two hotels, one handsome clubhouse,
several lodging houses, eight restaurants, a number of saloons, four groceries,
three drygoods stores, two hardware stores, three fruit stores, one wool com
mission house, one news depot and book store, one variety store, one bakery,
one jeweler and watchmaker, one boot and shoe maker, one tin shop, two livery-
stables, one dressmaker, two tin shops, several contractors and builders, three
real estate agencies, one insurance agency, one coal yard, one brick yard, two
lumber yards, two private schools and in a short time we shall have two churches
and a public school." — Outlook, November 24th, 1875.
REV. J. D. CRUM.
First Resident Preacher of Santa Monica.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 149
Among the merchants of the first year we find W. D. Vawter & Sons, Fourth
street, dealer in dry-goods, clothing, etc. ; M. J. Bundy, dealer in paints, oils,
glass; tin shop, Boehme & Kilgariff; M. Boufosky, groceries, liquors, etc.; H.
Giroux & Bro., groceries, liquors, etc. ; Wilson news depot, which handled every
thing from eastern periodicals to gents' furnishing goods, drugs and medicines;
Tell's " Lookout ", which combined " native wines and brandies, fresh fruit,
vegetables and fish ", with a " livery and feed stable." The hotels were the
Santa Monica House, kept by J. C. Morgan and C. M. Monroe for a few months
and then by J. W. Scott, and the Ocean View House, corner of Oregon and
Second, kept by Malcom & Harper.
The first child born in Santa Monica was Earnest Majors, who made his
appearance on August 2nd and who grew to manhood in this city. The first
marriage ceremony took place January 2Oth, 1876, when Alfred Hayes wedded
Miss Mattie Mountain, Rev. J. D. Crum officiating. The first sermon was
preached by the Rev. A. F. White in September. In October, the Rev. Mr.
Crum began holding Methodist services in Brady's hall, over a store on the coi
ner of Oregon and Fifth streets. The first church organized was the Meth
odist and they dedicated their first chapel on January 2nd, 1876. A private
school, known as the Santa Monica Academy, was opened by D. G. C. Baker
and wife. November 8th, 1875, and the first public school was opened in the
Presbyterian chapel on the corner of Third and Arizona, March 6th, 1876, with
Mr. H. P. McCusick as teacher.
October 17th, 1875, the first railroad train left Santa Monica for Los An
geles, flat cars being used, as the passenger coaches had not arrived. Three
trips were made that day and passengers from the steamer Senator were landed
in Los Angeles twelve hours in advance of those who went on to San Pedro.
On November 3rd the Outlook exults over— "A Busy Scene. We watched a
lively scene on Santa Monica wharf last Thursday that is decidedly encouraging.
On one side the schooner John Hancock was discharging a large cargo of lum
ber; on the opposite side the schooner Newton Booth had just arrived with
railroad ties ; further along the barkentine Ella was unloading coal. The Sen
ator was discharging a large cargo of passengers and freight, including several
race horses. A train of cars was waiting to transport the whole into the back
country. And it must be remembered that only a few months ago the site of
this growing town was a sheep pasture and the spot occupied by wharf and
vessels a lonely waste of waters."
The same month the coast steamers began to make regular stops at the
new town, and the Outlook states that at one time 28 mule teams were loaded
with freight for San Bernardino. On Sunday, December 5th, the new road
was so far completed that an excursion of 400 people, the first one entering Santa
Monica, was brought in. Two trains a day were put on and the fare was $1.00;
freight. $1.00 per ton between Los Angeles and Santa Monica. The Southern
150 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Pacific, when the Jones road and wharf were assured had dropped the freight
rate between Los Angeles and San Pedro from $5.00 per ton to $2.50 and on
the completion of the line it dropped to $1.00 for freight and 50 cents for pas
sengers, thus forcing- the new road to begin operating at losing rates. The
people of Los Angeles in their first gratitude for the loosening of the Southern
Pacific monopoly, declared that they would stand by the Jones road and handle
their trade over the Santa Monica wharf.
The year 1876 opened with the brightest prospects for the new town Its beau
tiful situation, the ample space given to streets and alleys, the uniform method
of tree planting which had been adopted, the park and school building which
were already planned for, added to the favorable outlook for a steadily increasing
volume of business, drew many people to adopt Santa Monica as a home.
In February a meeting was called to consider the question of incorporating
the new town ; but after a very lively discussion1 the proposition received but
one aye. In April the Outlook, which was an energetic agent and exponent of
Santa Monica progress, published its first " special edition " reviewing the
achievements of the first six months of existence. It states that 1000 lots in
the town and thirty-five acre villa lots had already been sold ; 2000 acres of the
San Vicente ranch, lying along the L. A. & I. road in the vicinity of San Vicente
springs had been divided into villa farms, to be sold at $100 per acre. The
population of the town is given as between 800 and 900, with 116 school children.
A school district had been organized with J. W. Scott, L. T. Fisher and John
Freeman as trustees and March nth, 1876, a special election was held and $5000
tax voted for school purposes. The schoolhouse, located on Sixth street, was
ready for use in September, 1876.
In April Michael Duffy's bath house was completed, the first one in Santa
Monica, and a pavilion was built on the beach by Jones and Baker. The Santa
Monica Hotel was enlarged and several business houses built. There were
many visitors and campers both at North Beach and at the canon. One of the
greatest attractions was a series of ring tournaments between mounted knights,
one side, of Americans, led by B. F. Reid, the other composed of native Cali-
fornians was under the command of J. J. Carrillo.
In March I. W. Scott made the first " addition " to the town of Santa
Monica, a tract of forty-three acres lying east of town between Fifth and Eighth
streets, and known as " Prospect Hill." Mr. Scott laid this off into lots, planted
a thousand " blue gum " trees, and put in a bridge across Sixth street to connect
it with the town. An auction was held March 315! and fifty lots were sold at
prices ranging from $77 to $200.
This year a road was opened between Santa Monica and San Fernando
valley, through the efforts of Isaac Lankershim, who wished to ship the grain
from his ioo,ooo-acre ranch by way of Santa Monica and thus save the cost of
the road in a single year. But the Southern Pacific at once dropped its rate
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
151
and thus the Santa Monica road was never used by Lankershim, although it
was a paying investment for him to build it. The California Coast Steamship
Co., whose object was to carry on a freight and passenger traffic between San
Francisco and Santa Monica, was organized this year, with a capital stock of
$400,000. " Lucky " Baldwin is credited with $75,000 stock and Col. Baker
with $25,000, but the plans of the company never materialized.
A great deal of anxiety was manifested as to the completion of the L. A.
& I. road, which had come to a stop when it reached Los Angeles. It was still
beiieved that it would be continued to Independence and possibly further. This
belief was strength
ened by the actual
work of a grading
force in the Cajon
Pass. But no final
decision as to a route
between Los Angeles
and the pass was
made. San Bernar
dino talked of raising
a subsidy to secure
the line and Santa
Ana and Riverside
had hopes. Los Ange
les citizens held meet
ings to discuss the
desirability of aiding the Independence road. Already it was seen that the
influence and competition of the Southern Pacific was bearing heavily on the
new road ; but the papers and the people held out strongly against any suggestion
that their independent line might be absorbed by the monopoly.
During 1877 Santa Monica continued to hold its own in growth. A new
bath house was erected by the L. A. & I. road on the beach front and fully
equipped with hot steam baths, plunge and facilities for salt-water bathing in
all its forms. A billiard room, bowling alley, skating rink and refreshment
rooms were added to the pavilion. Altogether the finest accommodations on
the coast were offered here. The Ocean House under the management of C.
A. Sumner was opened this season, and the number of visitors and campers
increased over any previous season.
In May, William ' Spencer burned 4000 feet of clay pipe which was pur
chased by B. D. Wilson for use in the extensive irrigation system which he
and Shorb were then constructing near San Gabriel. The Santa Monica pipe
proved so satisfactory that large orders were placed for it and in' the fall work
FIRST CHURCH IX SANTA MCNICA. FIRST M. E. CHURCH.
152 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA, BAY CITIES
was begun on a clay pipe manufactory, a two-story building, 40 by 60, with
a large furnace. This was the first utilization of the Santa Monica clay beds.
The plaza between California and Nevada streets had been planted with
Monterey cypress, blue gum, live oak, pepper, weeping willow and iron-bark
trees. Jones and Baker had set out 4200 blue gum and pepper trees along the
streets, and these had already begun to make a showing. The extraordinary
fertility of the soil in Santa Monica and vicinity was a constant source of wonder.
Blue gums planted in August, 1875, measured 12 to 15 feet high in November,
1877. The Outlook frequently referred to a tomato vine which became one of
the sights of the town. It was trained by J. W. Scott against his house and
reached a height of twenty-five feet, while it bore profusely. Corn 14 feet tall
is reported and the beautiful flower gardens which were the result of a little
care and attention were the admiration of all visitors.
The question of the ownership of the beach front had already come up.
Some parties claimed that the beach was government property and the question
led to more or less friction. A very sad outcome of this dispute occurred in
October, 1877. A carpenter, John V. Fonck, was working on a small bath house
which was being put up on land in dispute. C. M. Waller, who was in charge
of the bath house and beach property of the land company, ordered him to quit
work. Upon his refusal to do so, Waller fired and wounded him fatally. He
claimed that he thought the gun was loaded with bird shot and that he was
acting under the orders of E. S. Parker, the representative of Jones and Baker.
On trial, he was sentenced for one year. Parker was also tried, and although
it did not appear that he had given direct orders, he was sentenced to ten years
in the penitentiary. He was released to await a new trial ; but as a result of
the affair his young wife died and a week later Parker also died — of a broken
heart, so his friends believed. This unfortunate affair gave rise to much feel
ing, as it had been believed by many that purchasers of lots were entitled to put
up a bath house for private use on the beach. The question of beach ownership
continued troublesome and there were constant difficulties over it until the courts
decided, in 1888, that the boundary of the San Vicente ranch extended to tide
water and therefore Jones and Baker had the ownership to that point.
The railroad question continued to be the most vital one to Santa Monica
and, indeed, to Southern California. The influence and competition of the
Southern Pacific was proving too strong to be overcome by the Los Angeles
and Independence road, single-handed. Under the conditions, it could not be
made a paying proposition. The Panamint mines had not panned out as was
expected, and the idea of continuing the road to Independence had been aban
doned. Senator Jones had already sunk a million dollars in the enterprise ; but
he could not be expected to go on indefinitely losing money. He offered to sell
the road at cost to the people of Los Angeles county. Many were strongly
favorable to this idea. The Outlook and its editor, L. T. Fisher, made a strong
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 153
fight against the " monopoly." In one of his editorials, he sets forth the follow
ing reasons why the L. A. & I. road is a " good thing ", and should be owned
by the county :
" i. The railway from Los Angeles to Santa Monica has given the people
another outlet to the ocean.
" 2. It has brought the cars and the largest deep-sea vessels together.
" 3. It has shortened the ocean passage from San Francisco to 34 miles
and the time to Los Angeles from six to ten hours.
" 4. It enables parties who wish to make the most of their time to remain
several hours longer in Los Angeles and then catch the same steamer as pas
sengers by way of the Southern Pacific and San Pedro.
" 5. It has reduced freight from $5.00 per ton to $1.00 and passenger rate
from $2.50 to 50 cents.
" 6. It has reduced the price of lumber in Los Angeles and along the line
of the S. P. not less than $5.00 per thousand.
" /. It has raised the price of land along its route not less than 100 per cent.
" 8. It has greatly increased the inducements for settlement in a portion
of Los Angeles cornty which has hitherto been neglected.
" 9. It has established a cheap means by which the people of the interior
and of Los Angeles can enjoy the benefits of the sea shore.
" 10. It constitutes in itself property that adds greatly to the aggregate
wealth of the county.
" ii. It can he held as a check, not only upon existing roads in this
locality, but upon all roads that may be built, because it furnishes a connection
with ocean vessels that can reach all quarters of the world."
Meetings were held to discuss plans for saving the road from the S. P.
and other meetings were held which suggested all sorts of possible and im
possible projects for saving the country from the complete domination of the
Central Pacific. But all the talk and the many schemes proposed came to
nothing. In March, 1877, Leland Stanford, president of the C. P., and General
Colton, president of the S. P., with a corps of their assistants, visited Santa
Monica, to " look around — nothing doing," they assured the reporters. In
May, another party of Central Pacific magnates came clown and looked over
Santa Monica and brought speculation to fever heat. On June ^th, 1877, it
was definitely announced that the Los Angeles and Independence road had
been sold to the Central Pacific. Santa Monica people could only accept the
change and make the best of it. At first the Outlook hopefully announced
that it wasn't so bad — the great company would undoubtedly improve the
service and build up the trade. Its hopes were shortlived. In July the fare
on the Pacific Coast steamers was increased from $12 to $15, and freight rates
on steamers and by rail were soon increased. Then it was announced that
CHARLES E. TOWNER.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 155
hereafter only two small steamers, the Senator and Ancon, would ply along
the coast, owing to the falling off in traffic.
In this connection, some extracts from letters written by Crocker and
Huntington will show the odds against which the promoters of the L. A. & I.
railway struggled. On May i8th, 1875, Charles Crocker wrote: ''I notice
what you say of Jones, Park, etc. I do not think they will hurt us much, at
least, I should rather be in our places than theirs. I will ventilate their ' safe
harbor.' " And on May 25th, Huntington responded : " I shall do my best
to cave him (Jones) down the bank.''
During 1878 Santa Monica struggled against the hard fate that had
befallen her. The Southern Pacific removed the depot from the wharf to its
present location and gave, as a concession, a round-trip fare of $1.00 good for
three days. Many excursions from interior towns were brought to the coast
during the summer and Santa Monica remained the most popular resort,
although it could no longer hope for a great commercial importance. But
worse was to come. The S. P. sent one of its engineering force to examine
the wharf. After a careful inspection, he reported that the condition of the
piles was most alarming, owing to the ravages of the toredo, and that it was
unsafe for trains unless at least three-fourths of the piles were replaced. As
this would entail a large expense, he advised that the use of the wharf be
abandoned. On September gth, the Senator made its last landing and the
name of Santa Monica was taken off the steamer lists.
It was a crushing blow that had been dealt the town which had started
out so propitiously. Naturally, business dropped off and many people moved
away. Partnerships were dissolved, mortgages foreclosed, a number of business
houses sold out to satisfy their creditors. The population of the town melted
away and the editor of the Outlook, who had made a brave fight for the town
of his adoption, announced on December igth, 1878, that, the next week being
Christmas, the paper would be omitted for a week. It was " omitted " for
eight years.
Early in 1879 the S. P. ordered the removal of the wharf. The citizens
of Santa Monica protested and offered to purchase the structure as it stood,
but the offer was declined and the work proceeded. In 1888, the editor of
the Outlook had sufficiently recovered to be able to describe the sad scene :
' A big bumper was planted upon the shore end to keep trains from
running upon it, even by accident. Next came the order to tear down the
structure. The work of destruction began one fine morning and the sea was
as calm as if it had been a human being holding its breath in very wonder at
such an exhibition of unjustifiable vandalism. It was a bright morning, but
it was a blue day for the people who lived here. We heard the first blow
of the destructive implement and remarked that it was the death knell of Santa
156 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Monica. And yet, in the midst of this industrial tragedy, there was an element
of comedy. The workmen had had their minds so thoroughly impressed with the
dangerous condition of the wharf that they tiptoed over the structure as if
they expected every minute that it would crumble beneath them. They finally
reached the outer end, tore vp the flooring, stripped off the stringers, removed
the braces and then attempted to topple over the piles with long poles. These
stumps of redwood wielded no more than if they had been growing trees.
Next the stringers were replaced and a temporary flooring laid upon which
a donkey engine was placed. A noose was made of a huge chain and dropped
over the piles at the bottom. Even this power failed. As a finality, men were
sent in boats at low tide with axes and the piles were chopped off at low
water mark. The beach was strewn for a considerable distance with the timber
that washed ashore. Upon examination many of these piles were found to be
only a little worm eaten, which shows that the wharf at a comparatively little
cost, could have been kept intact." — Outlook, February 2Oth, 1888.
As soon as it was definitely known that the S. P. would abandon the
shipping business in Santa Monica Bay, new projects were talked of. It had
already been proposed that the people of Los Angeles build a wharf and a
narrow guage road and thus obtain a competing line. In October, 1878. a
company of San Francisco capitalists proposed to construct a harbor at
Santa Monica, build a narrow guage road and put on a line of steamers which
should carry freight at $3.50 per ton and passengers at $8.00 between Los
Angeles and San Francisco. The right of way was already secured and work
was to be begun at once. In November agreements between John Hayes, of
San Francisco, and citizens of Los Angeles and San Bernardino, were pub
lished. These set forth that Hayes was to build a narrow guage road from
• Santa Monica to Los Angeles and ultimately to San Bernardino, and to carry
passengers between Los Angeles and Santa Monica for 25 cents and freight
for $1.00. Another agreement made by John Wright of San Francisco was to
the effect that he would put on a line of substantial steamships, provided the
citizens of Los Angeles would do all their shipping on them.
Many other projects were discussed. The first one to show any signs
of materializing was the building of a wharf by Juan Bernard, an old resident
of Los Angeles, who had become one of the most prominent citizens. He
had married a daughter of Atigustin Machado and was thus interested in South
Santa Monica property. This wharf which was built from the foot of Strand
street was intended to be fifteen hundred feet, but was not completed. A
large warehouse was built, which was planned to be complete for commercial
purposes, but the S. P. forbade the steamers to land here, and the fiat was
obeyed. No boat ever unloaded there, and the wharf was finally carried out
by a severe storm about 1883 and the timber used for other purposes.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 157
Only a few very stout hearted citizens still had faith that Santa Monica
would ever again reach its former prosperity. But there were those who had
become attached to the place and who felt confident that the great natural
advantages afforded by the climate, the situation and the fertility of the soil,
would eventually make up for the loss of shipping facilities. And so long as
the people of Los Angeles and the interior could escape to Santa Monica during
torrid days of summer and tourists and healthseekers could find here their
ideal resting spot and homes, the place would still prosper. These few remained
through the darkest days and gradually newcomers discovered the advantages
here which could not be obtained elsewhere, and began to fill up the vacant
houses and to purchase and improve other property.
HON. JOHN PERCIVAI, JONES was born in a small village, in Herefordshire,
England, January 27th, 1829. While he was still an infant, his family removed
to the United States and settled near Cleveland, Ohio, Here the child grew
to youth and acquired a public school education, after which he entered the
service of a bank in Cleveland. But when the news of the gold discoveries
of California penetrated the country and called to every youth with a bold
heart and adventurous blood, young Jones joined forces with several other
young men who were as eager for the change as himself. They secured a
small vessel, sailed through the lakes and the St. Lawrence river and started
on the long and perilous voyage around " the Horn." They were months on
the ocean and experienced many hardships and dangerss before they finally
reached San Francisco Bay, in the spring of 1850. The young adventurer at
once hastened away to the mines to seek his fortune. For many years he was
a typical California miner, sometimes finding his hopes fulfilled, often finding
them dashed.
In those days when thousands of men sought gold with fierce energy,
living without homes, without comforts, without the restraints of civilization,
it was only strong character and true manhood that withstood the temptations
of the environment. Young Jones came of sturdy stock and proved himself
a man and a leader, even in these early days. He served as sheriff in the
county of Trinity at a time when the office required a stout heart and level
head for — to a large extent — the sheriff was the law. From 1863 to 1868 he
was a member of the state legislature of California. In the meantime, he
had gained much experience in mines and mining propositions. When the
great developments of the Comstock lode began to attract attention, he was
one of the first on the ground. Later he was made the superintendent of the
Crown Point mine.
Thus he became a resident of Nevada and when in 1872, a critical period
in the history of the young state approached, he was mentioned as a candidate
158 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
for the United States senate. The contest was a hot one, he being at first
opposed by William Sharon ; but the " Nevada Commoner," as Jones had come
to be known, was regarded as a friend to the miners and in the end, he was
elected and took his seat March, 1873.
In 1876, the Monetary Commission of the senate was appointed to inquire
into the relative value of gold and silver, the causes thereof and kindred
questions, which vitally affected the mining interests and particularly the
interests of the state of Nevada — a silver-producing state. Senator Jones was
chosen as chairman of this committee and entered upon the study of the ques
tions arising, with keen interest. It is said of the report rendered by the
Monetary Commission that, " Nothing so thoroughly exhaustive had ever been
presented to Congress, and the view taken was favorable to the interests of
Nevada and of the Comstock miners."
Naturally, at the expiration of his term, Senator Jones who had acquitted
nimself upon so important and vital an occasion with credit and made a strong
argument for the silver of his state, was re-elected. For thirty years he con
tinuously served in the United States senate, a record seldom equalled. He
became, in his long career, a noted figure and was counted as one of the
strongest men on the floor. A writer in Munsey's, some years ago, pays him
this tribute :
"Senator John P. Jones, who has just been re-elected to the United
States senate for another period of six years, is one of the interesting figures
of the upper house of congress. He was a warm personal friend of Senator
Conklin and formerly belonged to the stalwart wing of the Republican party.
Of recent years, he has been one of the strongest men of the ' silver party '
in the country, and last year he withdrew from the old party and supported
Mr. Bryan for the presidency.
" Mr. Jones is a very able man and has probably made more speeches on
the financial question than all of the other members of the senate put together.
He is a profound scholar and has the ability to marshal an imposing array of
facts to support his arguments.
" He was a delegate to the Brussels Monetary Conference which met during
the administration of President Harrison. Before that body, he spoke for
three days, the printed report of his speech containing over two hundred
thousand words. A representative of the Rothschilds made the remark that if
there were many men in America with Senator Jones' capacity for speaking, the
advocates of the gold standard would do well to surrender at once.
" Senator Jones is exceedingly popular in Washington. When he first
entered the senate, he was many times a millionaire. Subsequently he lost
most of his wealth, .but it is said that in later years he has been fortunate in his
investments and is again a very rich man."
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 159
. As will be seen, Senator Jones was a man of the people, a practical mining
man as well as an expert in handling mines and mining stocks. He has made
fortunes — and lost them — with the calm indifference of the true miner. But be
side this, he is a man of great native ability, who, without the training of schools,
has made himself an authority on financial questions and created the utmost
confidence in his sound judgment and clear perception.
Senator Jones has been intimately associated with the history of Santa
Monica since its inception. In 1874, he purchased an interest in the San
Vicente rancho and, with Col. R. S. Baker, laid out the townsite of Santa
Monica. During the next two or three years, he spent a million dollars in
Southern California, in building up Santa Monica and in building and carrying
on the Los Angeles and Independence railway, which was intended to reach
his Panamint mines and possibly be the terminus of another great trans
continental line. In 1888, he built his beautiful home, Miramar, here and since
that time this has been the residence of his family. Here the senator has
himself come for rest and pleasure, when he could escape from his many
public duties.
Senator Jones has been twice married, his first wife being the daughter
of Judge Conger, the second a daughter of Eugene A. Sullivan and a most
accomplished and benevolent woman. The family consists of one son, Roy,
and three daughters.
THE VAWTER FAMILY.
WILLIAMSON DUNN VAWTKR, late merchant and banker of Santa Monica,
was a pioneer settler of Southern California and a leading spirit in the material
development and business life of his adopted city. He was a descendant of an
old and distinguished family, his parents, William and Frances Vawter, both
being natives of Virginia. He was born at Mount Glad, near Madison, Indiana,
August 28th, 1815. About 1827 the family removed to Jennings county and
located on a farm near the town of Vernon. The father proposed to make a
farmer of his son ; but the lad had no liking for that vocation and soon after
the age of twelve went to live with his uncle, Colonel John Vawter, for whom
he had a great affection. His first work was driving an ox team between the
towns of Madison and Vernon, freighted with merchandise for his uncle's store.
This work, by reason of the difficult roads and occasional danger from savages,
suited the daring spirit of the boy. Later he became a clerk in the store of his
uncle and then partner in the same store, in company with his cousin, Smith
Vawter. Together they carried on business in the old brick building at " Vaw
ter 's Corner " in Vernon, for a period of forty years.
Mr. Vawter served as postmaster of the town for a number of years. He
was a leader in early temperance work and was treasurer and custodian of the
Bible depository of Jennings county, a branch of the American Bible Society,
E. J. VAWTER.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 161
from its organization. He always took a lively interest in municipal politics
and in national affairs. He was a Whig during the life of that political party
and a member of the Republican party from its birth. He voted for General
William Henry Harrison and in 1888 cast his vote for General Benjamin Har
rison.
Tn 1875 he came to California and was one of the original members of the
Indiana colony which was the forerunner of the city of Pasadena. Mr. Vawter
purchased a sixty-acre ranch in that colony, which is now occupied by the busi
ness portion of the city. Drawn by report of the great advantages offered by
the new settlement of Santa Monica which was to become the commercial metrop
olis of Southern California, he with his sons located here and opened the first
general store in the town, in a building on the lots on Fourth street still occupied
by the Vawter residence.
As the town commenced to grow he established lumber yards and soon
built a planing mill, which proved a boon to home builders. He secured a fran
chise in 1886 and with his sons built the first street railway, which was for some
time operated at a loss. They demonstrated their faith in the future, however,
by extending the line to the Soldiers' Home, a distance of about five miles, and
he lived to see it a paying enterprise. With his sons he organized the First
National Bank of Santa Monica and opened the same in the brick building on
the southeast corner of Third and Oregon, which they built in 1888.
Mr. Vawter was married, July I5th, 1834, to Mary Charlotte Tilghman
Crowder of Baltimore, Maryland. She died September 22nd, 1851. Her chil
dren were Mary Ellen, May, Jane Cravens, William Smith and Edwin James.
Mr. Vawter married Charlotte Augusta Knowlton in November, 1852. She
was a native of Shrewsbury, Mass. She died in Santa Monica, December 27th,
180,3, leaving one daughter, Emma. A son, Charles Knowlton, had died pre
viously.
Mr. Vawter was one of the founders of the Presbyterian church in Santa
Monica and was always one of its staunch supporters. He was a man of pure
life — both in thought and action. He was pre-eminently just and never inten
tionally did any man a wrong. At the same time, he was not a man of loud
or bold pretense and moved along life's journey doing the right thing at the
right time : " because it was the natural, outlet for energies which were attuned
to those harmonies which could,only accord with what was best." The memory
of his noble life will linger like a restraining benediction to call us up toward
a better standard of thought and action.
Mr. Vawter passed away at his home in Santa Monica, July loth, 1894.
MARY ELLEN VAWTER, the first child of W. D. and Mary C. Vawter, was
born at Vernon, Ind., October 28th, 1836. At the age of eighteen she began
teaching school. At twenty-three she married Ward Leavitt of Chatauqua, N.
Y. In the spring of 1875, Mr. and Mrs. Leavitt with their daughter, Florence,
removed to California. They were stockholders in the Indiana colony, but after
11
162 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
a short residence there located in Santa Monica. In 1880 they returned to Pasa
dena and lived for some years upon their orange ranch. In 1887 they again
located in Santa Monica, where Mr. Leavitt died, October 23th, 1896. Mrs.
Leavitt and daughter still reside in Santa Monica.
MAY VAWTER was born at Vcrnon, Ind., March 4th, 1838. She was edu
cated in the schools of her native town and received a special musical training.
After teaching school and traveling through the southern and eastern states
and Canada, she accompanied her family to California in 1875. In the spring
of 1876 she married Switzer S. Harwood, M.D. Dr. and Mrs. Harwood lived
at San Pablo and in San Francisco and Yreka. They finally removed to Sydney,
Australia, where they made their home. Mrs. Harwood was a self-reliant
woman, adventurous from childhood, and she several times made the voyage
between Sydney and California.
She early united with the Vernon Presbyterian church and was a charter
member of the First Presbyterian church of Santa Monica. She died in Sydney,
Australia, March ist, 1884.
JANE CRAVENS VAWTER is a native of Vernon, Ind. She received her edu
cation in private and public schools of her native town and later studied under
Dr. J. C. Burt, following a college course. She also took a special course of
reading extending over several years. When very young she was interested in
political and national questions and became a staunch abolitionist. She was for
several years a teacher in the public schools of Indianapolis.
She united with the Presbyterian church at Vernon, and was the projector
and one of the founders of the first Sunday-school in Santa Monica. This was
organized and carried on for some weeks in the home of W. D. Vawter. Miss
Vawter was a charter member of the First Presbyterian church and served for
some time as its Sunday-school superintendent. She was long a teacher in this
school, taking children from their tenth year and holding them until they reached
majority. She was one of the two solicitors who collected funds for the present
beautiful Presbyterian building. She and her sister, Miss Emma, now live to
gether in the fine old homestead on Fourth street. Santa Monica.
ARAMATHA CHARLOTTE VAWTER was born in Vernon, Ind.. September 25th.
1841. She was educated at Jennings Academy. Vernon, and at Oxford, Ohio.
After teaching for a time, she was married, October i6th, 1866, to Septimus
Vater, now a prominent banker of Lafayette, Ind. Mrs. Vater, who has always
been an active worker in the Presbyterian church and its auxiliaries, has been
ordained a deaconess in her home church and is widely known for her good
works in her home city.
WILLIAM S. VAWTER, the eldest son of W. D. and Alary C. Vawter, was
born near Vernon, Ind., April ist, 1845. He passed through the graded schools
of the town and graduated from a commercial college in Cincinnati, Ohio. Re
turning to his native place, he was appointed deputy county clerk of Jennings
county. Later he became editor and proprietor of the Vcrnon Banner, a weekly
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 163
paper, which he conducted with success for a couple of years. He then entered
the manufacturing business, which he continued until he came to California
in 1875.
After making investments in the Indiana colony, now Pasadena, the Vawters,
father and two sons, opened the first general store in Santa Monica and con
ducted an extensive mercantile business for ten years. They remained here dur
ing the long period of depression succeeding the abandonment of the wharf by
the Southern Pacific Company and, in spite of the most discouraging conditions,
retained their faith in the future of this region. In 1884 the Vawters purchased
too acres of the Lucas ranch, adjoining the then south boundary of the town.
This land was later subdivided and sold in tracts and in lots and forms a large
part of the present south end of the city of Santa Monica. During 1887-88
they sold half of this property for more than the whole tract had cost them and
W. S. Yawter built a handsome home in South Santa Monica, one of the first
residences in that district.
Mr. Yawter has served the city of Santa Monica in many capacities. He
was one of the first board of trustees when the town was incorporated and
served from 1886 to 1892; in 1903 he was again elected city trustee and served
until 1906.
He was interested in the establishment of the Santa Monica street railway
system and the Soldiers' Home line, all of which were sold to the Los Angeles
Pacific. With his brother, E. J. Vawter, Mr. Vawter organized the Santa
Monica Mill and Lumber Company, in 1886; the Santa Monica Commercial Com
pany in 1894; was interested in the First National Bank formed in 1888, and
is now vice-president of the Merchants' National Bank of Santa Monica. He
was one of the members of the City Water Company incorporated in 1896 to
supply Ocean Park with water and has been connected with many other local
business ventures. He is still largely interested in real estate and takes an active
part in every movement for the advance of the town which he has aided in
building up.
Mr. Vawter has always been a loyal Republican in politics and has taken
an active part in public affairs. During the administration of President Harri
son, he served as postmaster of Santa Monica, resigning on the election of Pres
ident Cleveland. In the spring of 1908 he was appointed a member of the
State Board of Bank Commissioners, and accepted the position, resigning from
the presidency of the Santa Monica Savings Bank and from the board of edu
cation to do so.
Mr. Vawter was married in 1868 to Miss Sarah M. McClaskey, a native
of Jackson county, Indiana. They have one daughter, Mary C., now the wife
of John S. Moore of Los Angeles. Mr. and Mrs. Vawter have a beautiful home
on the corner of Second street and Arizona avenue, which is surrounded by
stately trees, the growth of years.
164 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
EDWIN JAMES VAWTER was born in Vernon, Incl., November 26tb, 1848.
After being educated in the public schools, he showed a decided tendency for
business and made his first venture as a newspaper man, on the Vernon Banner.
He was soon taken into partnership with his father, W. D. Vawter, in his gen
eral merchandise business, at the old " Vawter Corner ", in Vernon. On the
removal to California in 1875, the partnership between father and son was con
tinued, and he was also one of the stockholders in the Indiana colony. 'He
located in Santa Monica when the family decided upon this as a residence. He
has taken a large part in the financial and business affairs of this vicinity and
has always been known as an enterprising investor in every effort which prom
ised success. Many of the improvements which Santa Monica has enjoyed and
is enjoying today have been inaugurated by the Vawter family and carried
forward to completion with perseverance in the face of difficulties. Mr. E. J.
\rawter has had a large share in the enterprises which were organized by his
father and brother, as well as having originated many other successful ventures
himself. He was president of the City Water Company organized in 1896 to
supply the district known as Ocean Park with water; he was cashier of the
First National Bank of Santa Monica until it was sold to Senator Jones in 1893.
In 1899 he began the development of what has proved to be one of the most
important of Santa Monica industries — that is the growing of carnations and
other flowers for the market. A large tract of land is now under cultivation
and the business is steadily increasing in value.
He was the founder of the Santa Monica Commercial Company, organized
to carry on real estate, banking, railroading and other transactions. He remains
the president and manager of this company, which represents the properties left
himself and four sisters by the will of their father. He organized the First
National Bank of Ocean Park, in 1905, of which he was president until 1907.
Mr. Vawter has always been closely identified with the public interests ; he
has served the city as a member of the board of city trustees, and as member,
of the library board and of the school board. He has also taken part in many
of the political conventions of the Republican party and is identified with the
Masonic order (being a 32nd degree Mason), Knights of Pythias, and Pioneers
of Los Angeles county.
He was married to Miss Laura E. Dixon in Indiana, in 1869. She died
in 1886. They were the parents of one son, E. J. Vawter, Jr., who inherits
the business ability of the family.
In 1888 Mr. Vawter married Mrs. Isabella L. Nelson. She is gifted with
a fine voice, which is often used in the aid of charitable causes. They have a
pleasant home, in the midst of flowers, in South Santa Monica.
EMMA KNOWLTON VAWTER was born in Vernon, Ind., August 2ist, 1853.
She received her education in the public schools of Vernon, Ind., and in the
Western Seminary and Oxford College, where she graduated in 1873. She
came to California with her father's family and has since that time been a resi-
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 165
dent of Santa Monica. Having received a good musical education, she acted
as organist for the First Presbyterian church from its organization until 1903.
She resides with her sister, Jane Cravens, in the old home at Santa Monica.
CHARLES KNOWLTON VAWTER, son of Williamson D. and Charlotte Knowl-
ton Vawter, was born in Vernon, September 7th, 1855. He was delicate from
birth, having a spinal difficulty which resulted in the complete loss of sight. He
died September 29th, 1879.
EDWIN JA.MES VAWTER, JR., son of Edwin James and Laura Dixon Vawter,
was born in Vernon, Ind., June loth, 1871. He came to California with his
parents and after his mother's death in 1886, lived for a time with his grand
father, W. D. Vawter. At sixteen he entered Purdue University, Indiana. In
1888 he entered the State University at Berkeley, but owing to an attack of
typhoid fever did not complete the course.
In 1889 he took a position with the First National Bank of Santa Monica.
On the organization of the Commercial Bank of Santa Monica, in 1894, he be
came cashier of the institution. He was cashier of the Main-street Savings Bank
of Los Angeles for five years and was connected with the Security Savings
Bank. He then became cashier of the United States National Bank of the same
city. He is now president of the First National Bank of Ocean Park.
Politically he is a Republican. He is a member of the Knights of Pythias
and organized a company of the " Uniform Rank " at Santa Monica, which
he served for two years as captain. He is also a member of the Masonic order,
and has taken the 32nd degree. He united with the Presbyterian church during
boyhood and has served several years as trustee of that church.
Mr. Vawter was married March 8th, 1899, to Miss Bessie M. Channell of
Arkansas City, Kansas. They have two children, Marjorie Dixon and Helen
Edwina.
J. J. CARRILLO.
CHAPTER III.
FROM TOWN TO CITY. 1880-1890.
THE opening of the new decade found Santa Monica in the midst of most
discouraging circumstances. The population as shown by the United
States census was 417, but this included the population of the entire
township of La Ballona. Values had greatly depreciated. Three lots and a
house on the corner of Oregon avenue and Second street were sold, about this
time, for $750. L. T. Fisher sold his place on Third street, now known as the
General Sargeant house, two lots, a small house and highly improved grounds,
for $300. Three lots on the corner of Utah and Third, with improvements,
sold for $1200. As late as 1885 the corner now occupied by the Santa Monica
bank building sold at a probate sale for $400. These are but samples of the
effect of the " dark days." But Santa Monica was not alone in her depression.
The years from 1880 to 1885 were quiescent throughout Southern California.
The chief enlivenment came through the operation of the Southern California
Railroad which was building branch lines in preparation for the coming of the
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe line, the completion of which ushered in the
" boom " days of the later eighties. Santa Monica looked longingly toward
this new line, the ocean terminus of which was not yet determined, north of
San Diego. But the Southern Pacific hold on the situation here was too strong
to tempt the California Southern this way, until after the failure to make a
harbor at Ballona.
Santa Monica still had advantages, however, which were not dependent
upon any railroad. She continued to be the favorite summer resort for pleasure
seekers from the interior towns of the southern end of the state and she offered
mnny attractions to eastern tourists and health seekers — when they were fortu
nate enough to discover that such a place as Santa Monica existed. During
1883 it became necessary to increase her hotel accommodations and the Santa
Monica Hotel was remodeled and increased by the addition of twenty rooms.
Several new cottages were built and many tents were grouped each summer
on " north beach ", while the canon still was a favorite camping resort also.
In 1884 the Vawters showed their solid faith in the future by purchasing 100
acres of the Lucas tract, adjoining the town on the south, paying $40.00 per
acre for the land.
The summer of 1885 was an unusually gay one at the beach. Hotels and
cottages were all full and more than 200 tents were occupied on North Beach.
Sunday excursions brought crowds and the annual encampment of the G. A. R.,
in August, added to the enrollment. The Catholic church, which had been
168 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
begun in 1884, was completed in 1885. The population of the town had so
increased that three teachers were employed and additional school room was
necessary. During 1885 a free reading room was established by the ladies of
the Women's Christian Temperance Union in August. This effort, which was
begun by a few brave, hard-working women, gradually developed into a library
and became the foundation of the present public library.
1886.
The completion of the through line of the Atchison & Topeka road in
1885 led to the greatest " rate war " ever known in this country and was the
immediate caxise of the marvelous influx of population and capital from which
the later history of Southern California dates. The quickening of the real
estate market, the breaking up of the large ranches in the vicinity of Santa
Monica and the great projects for railroads and harbors which were in the air,
revived land values in this place. In January, 1886, it was reported that the
Santa Fe, or Atlantic & Pacific road, as it was then called, would build a line
to South Santa Monica and there construct a wharf long enough to accommo
date the largest ships. The company was also to build a three-story hotel on
its reservation. In view of this rumor and of the purchase of right of way
for the road, many improvements were made in that direction and new comers
began to secure lands in South Santa Monica. But the hopes of that section
were dashed when it was learned in October that the " Ballona Harbor Improve
ment Company " had been incorporated and that the Los Angeles & Santa
Monica road, which had been incorporated to connect the A. & P. with Santa
Monica, had secured a franchise for a wharf and ship canal on Ballona slough.
Work was at once begun at dredging for the harbor, which had been carefully
planned by Hugh Crabbe, an engineer of some note. During the next two
years extensive operations were carried on and a large sum of money was ex
pended in the effort to create a harbor at Ballona Port.
Another important event of 1886 was the building of the Hotel Arcadia.
During the previous year, J. W. Scott, who had long been one of the most en
terprising citizens of the town, and who had been host of the Santa Monica
Hotel for a number of years, purchased from the railroad company a tract of
land lying along the ocean front between Railroad and Front streets, paying
for it $3000. He subdivided it into forty lots and sold thirty of them for $30,000.
With this money he began the construction of a first-class hotel, a long-felt
want in Santa Monica. The hotel, when completed January, 1887, was the
finest seaside hotel in Southern California and was only equaled by the Del
Monte at Monterey in the north. The grounds about it were at once improved
and the place became the center of Santa Monica's attractions. A bath house
and pavilion, and a gravity railway were among the features that were added
by the enterprising management of the establishment.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 169
In November, 1886, another important step in the advancement of Santa
Monica occurred. This was the incorporation of the town ; the election to
decide the question being held November 3<3th and resulting in a vote of 97 for
incorporation and 71 against. The boundaries as fixed were: "From the
northern corner of Montana avenue and Seventeenth street, east along north
erly line of Seventeenth street to the boundary line between San Vicente and
La Ballona; thence west to the south line of Santa Monica and Compton road;
thence southeast to the south line of Lucas tract ; thence to Pacific ocean." The
first board of trustees chosen for the town was made up of John Steere, chair
man : Dr. E. C. Folsom, A. E. Ladd, W. S. Yawter and J. W. Scott. Fred
C. McKinnie was the first town clerk; H. C. Baggs, Jr., was elected marshal
and E. K. Chapin treasurer. Baggs failing to qualify, Michael Noon was ap
pointed in his place.
While there was considerable opposition to incorporation by what the Ex
press terms the " old fogies ", on the ground of the additional taxes to be ex
pected as a result, the feeling in general was that the interests of the town de
manded the change and that public improvements must be made, even though
the wherewithal must come out of the pockets of the property owners. The
board of trustees at once entered upon a campaign of public improvements
which within the next few years transformed the rough, dusty and ungraded
roads which were called streets and avenues into well graded, graveled streets
with sidewalks, crossings, bridges, and which were sprinkled and shaded. Dur
ing the 3'ear fifty-five new cottages were erected in the town, beside the business
buildings and hotel, and a new era of growth was thus fairly inaugurated.
1887.
The year of 1887 was the most phenomenal period in the history of this
state. Santa Monica was not behind the other sections of Southern California
in the real estate craze that beset the old settler and the " tenderfoot " alike.
In January, L. T. Fisher, the former owner and editor of the Santa Monica
Outlook, which had so ably represented the town in its first sunny days, returned
to his first love and began the publication of a new series of the Outlook, joining
with him T. J. Spencer, an experienced printer. This paper furnished the
medium through which the real estate agents of the vicinity made their glowing
announcements. One of the first firms to indulge in large capitals and superla
tive adjectives was that of Tanner & Lewis — R. R. Tanner and " Tom " Lewis,
both of whom are well known in the annals of Santa Monica. They advertised
in January " Bargains in Vawter tract, Central addition, Prospect Hill and
other localities." On March 3rd a " Great auction sale " of Santa Monica lots
offered by the land company, took place. Of this sale the Outlook says : " This
valuable property will be sold on its merits. There will be no free band, no
free lunch, no free ride." In this connection, it continued : " The S. P. rail-
170 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
way company are daily making three trips between Los Angeles and Santa
Monica, which shows the importance of the location. And yet this is a mere
beginning. Another party is after a franchise for a dummy road from Los
Angeles to the ocean, to pass along the Cahuenga foothills. Another company
has organized with a capital of $500,000 to construct an electric railway from
Pasadena to the ocean. Their objective point on the coast is not yet announced,
but Santa Monica is no doubt the place, as the conditions are favorable to this
view. It should also be remembered that large capital is backing the enterprise
of constructing an artificial harbor at a point about four miles south of this
place. And there is still another improvement in prospect. This is a wharf
in front of Santa Monica to be constructed by the Southern Pacific Company."
Lots to the amount of $42,000 were disposed of in this sale, which included prop
erty from Ocean avenue to Twentieth street, and a few weeks later another
auction sale disposed of a still larger number of lots at prices ranging nearly
double those of the first sale.
On June 2nd occurred a " grand excursion and auction ", with Ben F.
Ward orator of the day. This was " East Santa Monica " and prospective
visitors were directed to bring their appetites and pocketbooks. The same
month the " Santa Fe " tract, with " ocean view, street cars, water, and stone
pavement ", was put on the market. This included fifty-three acres of land
. located in South Santa Monica and owned by Tanner & Lewis, purchased from
the Vawters for $53,000. The " Wave Crest " and " Ocean Spray " tracts, also
in South Santa Monica, were placed on the market about this time. Lots in
these divisions brought as high as $1350, which to old settlers in Santa Monica
seemed fabulous. But when it is remembered that these various tracts are
now the site of Ocean Park district, the figures do not seem out of the way.
One of the most important deals was the purchase for $55,575 of 247 acres
of the Boca de Santa Monica, located on the bluff on the other side of " Old
Santa Monica Canon ", by a syndicate of which Abbot Kinney was the moving
spirit. It was proposed to make this the " Nob Hill " district of Santa Monica.
Streets were laid out, trees planted, the Santa Monica Outlook Railway was
organized, with Kinney as president, Patrick Robinson, vice-president, James
Bettner secretary and treasurer, to build a steam road from the Southern Pacific
depot along the base of the bluff to the mouth of the canon and up a branch
of the Santa Monica canon to the " heights." Mr. Kinney was at that time
secretary of the newly organized state board of forestry and offered to donate
a site for a forestry station on the heights. The offer was accepted in Novem
ber, 1887, $5000 was set aside to be devoted to the experimental station and
H. Rowland Lee was sent to take charge of the work.
By August the " free lunch — free music " stage of auction sales had been
reached, " round-trip fare fifty cents and twenty cars provided " for sales in
the Ocean Spray and East Santa Monica tracts. Among other tracts of this
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 171
time were the Crippen tract, the Arcadia and Van Every's addition, all of which
were actively pushed.
During this year the townsite of Palms was laid out, about five miles inland
from Santa Monica, on the line of the Southern Pacific. The town of Sunset
also sprang into existence. This was located on the Wolfskill ranch, which
had been the old land grant of San Jose de Buenos Ayres. This tract of 4500
acres had belonged to B. D. Wilson, who in 1865 mortgaged it for $6000. On
this loan it passed into the hands of John Wolfskill, who during 1887 sold it
to a syndicate for $440,000. A townsite and ten-acre tracts were laid out ; water
was being developed ; a large hotel was planned and partially built ; even a news
paper was started. The " foothill " line, which was to reach the ocean in the
vicinity of Santa Monica canon was to cross the tract and a " grand boulevard "-
that fair dream which has existed as a dream since the laying out of Santa
Monica — was to be constructed from 'Los Angeles to the ocean, passing through
the city of Sunset.
An improvement which had a more substantial basis and which has been
of great advantage to Santa Monica and Southern California, was set under
way during the year. This was the location of a branch of the National Home
for Disabled Veterans in this vicinity. The board of managers of the institution
were on the coast to locate a site for a Pacific branch. They were induced to
visit Southern California, where various propositions were laid before them.
Judge Walter Van Dyke, acting for Messrs. Jones and Baker and the owners
of the Wolfskill tract, offered 600 acres of land in the San Vicente and Buenos
Ayres grants, together with other valuable considerations. This proposition
was accepted and the announcement was made in November, 1887, that the
present site had been selected. The news was received with rejoicing in Santa
Monica, which thus became the nearest base of supplies for the home.
Naturally such rapid advance in real estate values produced a rapid growth
in the town and a demand for improvements to correspond. Early in February
two applications for franchises to build street car lines were received by the
board of trustees, one from O. G. Weiss and others of Los Angeles, the other
by W. D. Vawter of Santa Monica. The latter was granted ; work was at once
begun, and on June igth the first car ran over the Ocean-avenue line and in
the fall the extension1 was completed, on Utah avenue and Third streets, up Ari
zona to Seventh and on Seventh to Nevada.
A franchise was also granted to a company which proposed to establish a
gas plant and supply the town. This improvement, however, did not materialize
and for years the only gas in the town was that manufactured by a private plant
for the Arcadia Hotel, and two or three other private houses. The Ballona
and Santa Monica railway was incorporated in 1887 to build a standard-gauge
road from Ballona to Santa Monica, its board of directors being M. L. Wicks,
J. Bernard, Jr., S. D. Northcutt, James Campbell and others. It was really an
W. I. HULL.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 173
offshoot of the Santa Fe line and through it, the Santa Fe obtained a right of
way through South Santa Monica to a junction with the S. P. on Railroad
street. Work was continued during the year on the Ballona harbor project,
and it was still hoped that the Santa Fe might make a terminus either at Ballona
or Santa Monica.
Among the buildings of the year, John Steere erected a two-story brick
block on the northeast corner of Utah and Third, with a frontage of 50 by 75
feet. The second floor contained a large hall which for many years was known
as " Steere's Opera House ", and which served as a theater and public meeting
place. The older residents of Santa Monica can look back upon many festal
occasions enjoyed within and recall the remarkable display of stuffed birds which
adorned its walls. Several other business blocks and a number of residences
were built during the year. St. Augustine's Episcopal church was erected and
the Catholic church at Palms was built.
The Fourth of July this year was celebrated with a great deal of enthusiasm,
a Jnrge crowd gathering to witness the proceedings and the Hon. Abbot Kinney
delivering the address of the day. The flower festival in Los Angeles was a
most pleasing and novel attraction. The Santa Monica booth, prepared by
Mr. Tyler, Mrs. Chapin and other ladies of the town, was a representation of
Santa Monica, with wharf and ship, made of flowers, and attracted a great
deal of attention and praise as the most beautiful exhibit in the festival. In
August the Lawn Tennis Association was incorporated and grounds were se
cured and laid out on Third street. The first tournament of the Southern Cali
fornia Tennis Association took place on these grounds and was a great success,
closing with a grand ball at the new opera house.
1888.
The year of 1888 was one of prosperity and advancement. While real
estate movements were not so rapid nor so sensational as in the previous year
and some of the wild schemes fell through, much solid and permanent develop
ment went on.
One of the most important indications of the change from village to city
was the formation of a bank, the directors being mostly local capitalists. The
First National Bank of Santa Monica was organized in January, with G. H.
Bonebrake of Los Angeles, president ; John Steere, vice-president ; E. J. Vawter,
cashier; G. S. Van Every, John Steere, Nathan Bundy, H. C. Baggs, G. H.
Bonebrake, W. S. and E. J. Vawter, directors. It opened for business in March
in the Central building on Third street and at once began to plan for a hand
some building of its own. In April the contract was let for the erection of
Senator Jones' new home on a block that had been reserved in the original town
plat as a hotel site. This house was to cost between $30,000 and $40,000, and
the fact thaUthe senator had selected Santa Monica as a permanent home went
174 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
far toward insuring the future of the place, as the Jones interests were still the
dominant factor in the town. The Santa Monica Improvement Company was
organized this year with Abbot Kinney, P. Robertson and Thomas Rhodes as
the controlling committee. This association at once began work in improving
the grounds of the lawn tennis courts and in erecting the " Casino " on Third
street. This was a substantial and beautiful club house, costing some $6000
and for many years was the center of much social gayety and the scene of many
festivities.
In April, after a rather lively contest, three new trustees were elected,
Thomas A. Lewis, Thomas Rhodes and J. J. Carrillo, the latter of whom served
as trustee continuously until 1900 — twelve years. The new board organized
with W. S. Vawter president, and at once began a vigorous campaign for the
improvement of streets. Before the end of the year active work had been begun
and contracts let for the grading, curbing and graveling of streets to the amount
of $23,000 while over $30,000 had been expended, or called for, in the putting
down of cement sidewalks. The present day population owes much to' the board
of trustees of 1888-89 who, in the face of much opposition from people who
thought the town would be bankrupted forever by such extravagance, and in
the face of many difficulties, persisted in making the streets of Santa Monica
the best thoroughfares in the country.
Railroad schemes were always on the tapis and hopes for rapid transit were
afforded abundant material for building upon. The Outlook of July i8th talks
cheerfully of the situation : " Santa Monica has excellent railroad accommoda
tions. The S. P. trains now make four round trips on week days and six on
Sundays. The round-trip fare is 75 cents except on Sundays when it is 50 cents.
. . The Los Angeles County Railroad will in a short time have another
route completed to Sonta Monica. The entire distance is now graded and the
material and rolling stock is now on hand. This road starts from the terminus
of the Temple street cable road in Los Angeles and skirts along the foothills,
running over a most charming route and passing close to the Soldiers' Home.
And yet this is not the end. The Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe, which is now
within five or six miles of this place, promises to extend its line to Santa Monica
in the near future. The company already has a right of way along Lucas
avenue in South Santa Monica and have graded a short section to hold their
franchise. Nor does this close the programme. A rapid transit road is in pros
pect which will start from some eligible point in Los Angeles and, paralleling
the Southern Pacific as far as The Palms, will then cross to the south side, mak
ing a beeline for South Santa Monica."
Of these projects, the Los Angeles county road, or the Los Angeles &
Pacific road, as it was later known, which was capitalized by Los Angeles men,
completed its track to Santa Monica and in 1889 went into operation. But its
career was short-lived. On January 29th, 1889, its first passenger train came
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 175
into Santa Monica and was greeted with enthusiasm ; the officers, E. E. Hall,
president, S. W. Luitweiler, vice-president, R. C. Shaw, superintendent, and
Cornelius Cole, J. M. Hale, W. T. Spillman and Arthur Gaylord, directors, being
on board. The road ran through Burbank, the Ostrich Farm at Kenilworth,
Prospect Park, Hollywood, Cahuenga, Morocco, Sunset and Soldiers' Home, a
distance of about 27 miles. Its terminus in Santa Monica was on the bluff
near Utah avenue. In September, 1889, it went into the hands of a receiver and
in October all trains but one a day were taken off. Soon afterward the rolling
stock was taken possession of by the creditors and one more disastrous failure
was added to the wreckage of the " boom period."
Late this year a Board of Trade was organized and at once began to take
an active part in pushing the vital interests of the town, which at this particular
time were generally conceded to be the building of a wharf and the completion
of the new water system. Work had been begun on a new reservoir, new pipe
was being laid and the Water Company, otherwise Jones & Baker, proposed to
expend some $60,000 in providing a suitable water supply. The Santa Monica
Mill Company's plant was put in operation this year at a cost of fully $25.000.
The Gates block on Third street was put up at a cost of $10,000 and other build
ing improvements to the amount of about $100.000 made the town begin to
assume the airs of a citv.
The year 1889 opened with the burning of the Santa Monica Hotel which
occurred January I5th and was a complete loss on account of the insufficient
supply of water. This swept away one of the oldest landmarks of the place, as
the hotel was the first building erected, having been put up by Jones and Baker
in the spring of 1875. It had been added to at various times and was valued
at some $25,000. The proprietor, T. R. Bennington, lost heavily on his furni
ture, and Mrs. Senator Jones was a heavy loser of clothing and jewels. The
place had had many ups and downs, having been " run " by many different par
ties, taken over for debt, and closed entirely during 1880-81. Till the building
of the Arcadia it had been the best hotel of the town and had been enlivened by
many gay and festive scenes. The Outlook, in a reminiscent mood, recalls:
Jim ' Eastman, in his palmy days, used to drive there in his fine turnout and
throw up one or two hundred at a whack for champagne and swell dinners. Led-
yard and Bullock, the once noted financiers of the Temple and Workman Bank,
et id omnes genus, would also come down periodically and indulge in a little
hilarity and the disbursement of some of their easily gotten wealth."
On February nth, the First National Bank moved into its new two-story
building, which was handsomely fitted up for its purposes. This spring the
Jones mansion was completed and the family moved in. It at once became a
social center whose hospitality was enjoyed by many distinguished people from
176
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
all parts of the world. Among its first visitors were Senator Hoar, of Massa
chusetts, Senator Allison, of Iowa, and Governor and Mrs. Stoneman, who were
entertained in a party by Mrs. Jones.
One of the most exciting questions of the year was that of the proposed
outfall sewer from Los Angeles which was to be discharged into the ocean in
the neighborhood of the present site of Venice, the city being vigorously cam
paigned for votes on the bonding proposition to build the outfall. Santa Monica
citizens entered a decided protest against such a plan as destructive to their beach
interests ; meetings were held, the board of trustees and the Board of Trade
passed vigorous resolutions and the town hired counsel to defend their rights.
Citizens of Santa Monica attended anti-bond meetings in Los Angeles and took
an active part in the fight. The question
was settled in October, for the time being,
by the defeat of the bond issue.
During this year, the street railway,
or the " mule line " as it was popularly
known, was extended to Seventeenth
street, thus giving the town four and a
half miles of street railway. The drive
way to the Soldiers' Home was also com
pleted this year, a boulevard 100 feet
wide, lined with trees set out under the
supervision of Abbot Kinney, then road
commissioner, and with four substantial
bridges. It was proposed to complete
this boulevard to Los Angeles, and a
number of other roads were opened and
improved and set with shade trees about this time.
The Soldiers' Home improvements were now fully under way and a num
ber of veterans had already been received. A brick kiln had been put into oper
ation in Santa Monica by Messrs. Sam Cripe and C. F. Geltner, which supplied
a large number of brick for the new buildings on the Soldiers' Home grounds.
A franchise was secured to build a street railway from the terminus of the Vaw-
ter line at Seventeenth street to the Home and this line was put into operation
in 1890.
Among the social events of the year may be chronicled the visit of Senator
Hearst, who was entertained by the Board of Trade and of Fanny Davenport,
who was so delighted with Santa Monica that she purchased a cottage and
announced her intention of passing her old age here. The Polo Club, Tennis
Association and a race course provided amusement for sport lovers. The town
now hid five chvrches, and among the mam- church entertainments the Floral
SAXTA MONICA HOTEL.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 177
Festival, held in the new Presbyterian church, was an event that lingers in the
memory of participants and beholders.
One of the most magnificent of the many hopeful prospects of the year was
the apparent certainty that this place had been chosen as the site for one of the
largest Catholic schools in the country. In September it was announced that
the Sisters of St. Joseph, a St. Louis order, had made arrangements with
Messrs. Crippen, who were to donate a tract of twenty-two acres of the East
Santa Monica tract for the location of a large school. Mr. John F. Hogan, who
had been instrumental in bringing the Sisters to this location, reported that
work would at once be begun on a building. The Outlook of September 25th
says : " Heretofore rumor said that at least $350,000 would be expended upon
the building alone, with a possible increase to $500,000. But it seems that
even these figures are too small. The Mother Superior is so captivated with
the location that she thinks the Sisters may decide to spend over a million
before the improvements shall have been completed." December nth, it is
announced that the final arrangements for the location of the Catholic College
at Santa Monica have been completed and Mother General Agatha, of St. Louis,
drove the first stake in the grounds, which " is the beginning of a series of
dedicatory services that will close with the final imposing ceremonial that will
be held at the completion of the grand edifice." The final grand dedicatorial
service has not yet taken place ; Sister Agatha seems to have been too
enthusiastic.
The Outlook of January 8th, 1890, says: "The popularity of Santa
Monica as a seaside resort is shown by the large travel over the Southern
Pacific and the L. A. & P. railroads. After careful estimates by the agent, we
find the Southern Pacific brought 200,000 visitors to the beach during the year.
To this must be added about a fourth as many for the L. A. & P. during the
time. Then there were thousands who came by private conveyance. The
highest number of visitors on any one day was on the first Sunday of the bal
loon ascension, when the crowd was estimated at 12,000. When Los Angeles
shall have doubled her population (as she will within a few years) and the
lines of railway have quadrupled, and the fare been reduced to one-half, it is
easy to imagine what an immense crowd will visit this beach each week."
It is interesting to note that all of the above predictions have been ful
filled long ago, except the reduction in railway fare,
THE WHARF FIGHT. — During the eighties the question of a wharf at
Santa Monica was considered the most vital one of all that presented them
selves. The people, the trustees, the Board of Trade, the contributors to the
papers, and above all the editor of the Outlook, discussed this question in all
its phases. The Outlook alternated between arguments to prove the necessity
and the profits to be accrued from building a wharf; schemes for the building
12
178 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
of a wharf and discourses upon the advisability of a harbor, or a breakwater,
at Santa Monica.
The first tangible step toward wharf building was the application, in Feb
ruary, 1887, °f the Southern Pacific for a franchise to build a wharf at the foot
of Railroad street, where the old wharf had stood. This was a direct result
of the efforts to establish a " harbor " at Ballona, which were backed by the
Santa Fe. But as the harbor of Ballona failed to threaten their San Pedro
business, the S. P. application lay dormant. When it became evident that the
railroad company would do nothing, more talk followed and in December it
was announced that Mr. Bernard, who had still the stump of his wharf, built
in '79 at South Santa Monica, had formed a company of capitalists who
would rebuild that structure. A committee was sent to San Francisco to inter
view the railway people and the Outlook declares : " There is hardly any
ground for doubt that we shall have a wharf within the next six months. . . .
It is one of the anomalies of business that the old Santa Monica wharf was
destroyed, not because it didn't pay, but because it did pay. That is to say, it
paid the shipper and traveler and would have paid the railroad company had
they not been interested at Wilmington and San Pedro."
February ist, 1888, Geo. S. Van Every and T. A. Lewis, two well known
residents of Santa Monica, made an application for a franchise to build a
wharf at the foot of Bicknell avenue. At the next meeting of the city trustees
a petition was presented by the Santa Monica Wharf Company, signed by forty-
five citizens, asking that an election be called for the purpose of submitting the
question of voting $10,000 bonds to be given to the company on the comple
tion of the wharf according to the franchise asked by Messrs. Van Every and
Lewis. The discussions and public meetings that followed this action were
lively and some warm language must have been used, for a few weeks later
the following note was published : " To the Honorable Board of Trustees of
the town of Santa Monica. Gents : Whereas we hear it talked by divers per
sons that the proposition to vote $10,000 subsidy to the ' Santa Monica Wharf
and Shipping Company ' was simply a scheme to extort and obtain money from
the said town for personal purposes ; and, whereas, from the said talk, we are
advised and believe that the decision will be against us, therefore we beg to
withdraw our proposition to construct a wharf and here announce that we will
have nothing to do with the matter; but would recommend that the town vote
bonds necessary to build and maintain a wharf of its own. George S. Van
Every, T. A. Lewis."
After more discussion and public meetings, it was generally agreed that
it would be feasible for the town to vote bonds for a wharf; but this scheme
was decided by the city attorney to be illegal and, notwithstanding their little
" defi," Messrs. Van Every and Lewis again came to the front with an appli
cation for a franchise, which was granted, to build a wharf at the foot of Front
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 179
street. Mr. Van Every started north to investigate the cost of piles and the
Outlook ventured a cautious blast of triumph — with strings on it. Past expe
rience was beginning to tell. After which there is an ominous quiet on the
subject of a wharf until the organization of the Board of Trade in December,
1888, which began an immediate agitation of the subject. The " Wharf Com
mittee " reported in favor of organizing a stock company, which proposition
was at once acted upon. Papers for subscriptions were circulated, the Los
Angeles Chamber of Commerce and Board of Trade were entertained by the
Santa Monica Board of Trade and, incidentally, urged to subscribe. More
public meetings, more discussion, pro and con. But at last sufficient subscrip
tions were obtained to warrant the incorporation of the " Santa Monica Wharf
Company." July I3th " Critic " in the Outlook writes a sharp letter in which
he objects to the acts of the committee in electing itself as directors of the new
company and immediately demanding an assessment of 40 per cent from sub
scribers. He also demands where the wharf is to be built and who is to decide
that important question.
Another lull followed while the question of the outfall sewer and an occa
sional editoria! as to the " harbor " seemed to occupy the attention of Santa
Monicans. But in December, Mr. J. B. Dunlap appeared before the board of
trustees, representing " capitalists " — that magic quantity — and asked what
subsidy Santa Monica was prepared to give for a wharf. This question led to
the proposition that the town vote bonds for a sewer system and then pay a
wharf company to carry their sewer out to sea. After much legal lore had
been expended, it was decided that this might — or might not — be done.
After which matters seem to have simmered until March, 1890, when the
Outlook indulges in this mysterious language : " There is music in the air !
Glad tidings float on the breeze. Rumor says Santa Monica is to have a
wharf! Our people generally believe it. So does the Outlook. We are not
at liberty to enter into details, as everything is not beyond the possibility of
failure. There is every reason to believe, however, that our wharf scheme, for
which the Outlook and many zealous residents of Santa Monica have so striven,
will be a most gratifying success, at an early day, and that, too, in a shape more
satisfactory than any of us have dared hope for."
At a public meeting of the subscribers to the " wharf fund " held May 6th,
Messrs. L. R. Vincent, D. L. Bancroft and W. D. Vawter were elected com
missioners to act for the subscribers, and S.-W. Luitweiler, representing the Los
Angeles & Pacific Railroad, was present with a proposition. In June articles
of incorporation for a new wharf company were filed. This was the " Santa
Monica Wharf and Railway Terminal Company," the incorporators being J.
A. Stanwood, E. E. Hall, Elwood Chaffey, Arthur Gayford and W. L. Cor-
son; the capital stock fixed at $300,000, $80,000 of which had been subscribed.
" The company have acquired an ocean frontage of about a mile and a half and
180 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
a large tract of land" (the present site of Ocean Park and Venice). In the
meantime many rumors were afloat as to the intentions of the Southern Pacific
Company, which had again sent representatives to Santa Monica and looked
at the old stump which still represented past commercial importance. During
1890 the town was in a fever of expectation as to the possibilities of the South
ern Pacific action and the probability of the Santa Monica Wharf and Railway
Terminal Company actually doing something. But after waiting until the
spring of IQ<)I for some tangible signs of fulfillment, the citizens again took a
hand. In May a petition signed by about a hundred citizens was presented to
the board of trustees requesting them to call an election to determine the ques
tion of issuing bonds for the construction of a wharf. After a full and enthu
siastic discussion of this project by the trustees and the citizens, the matter
was put to vote and was defeated by the vote of two trustees. Another meet
ing was called and some very hot language was used ; a new petition was pre
pared, urging the trustees to respect the wishes of the citizens ; but the two
obdurate members remained firm and again the petition was denied. The
excitement ran high and the feeling against the two trustees was very bitter
in some quarters.
The following emphatic words expressed the feeling of the editor of the
Outlook. " We haven't voted any bonds for a wharf at Santa Monica, nor has
any person or persons agreed to build one ; yet when a location is mentioned
for a wharf, it is like shaking a red rag at a mad bull. If there is any one
thing that some Santa Monicans can do better than anything else, it is getting
up a raging opposition when something is proposed upon which all should
agree. If a man started out tomorrow with a pocket full of twenty-dollar gold
pieces, some ' chronic ' would start a howl of opposition because the right per
son, in his opinion, had not been selected to make the distribution.''
But the question of building a wharf and of selecting a location was at
last settled, without regard to the opposition or opinions of Santa Monicans.
On August ist, 1891, the Southern Pacific Engineering Corps began a survey
in " old " Santa Monica canyon, and it was definitely known that C. P. Hunt-
ington had decided on a wharf for Santa Monica. Thus ended the history of
the agitation for a wharf.
JOHN T. CARRILLO. — There is no better known figure in Santa Monica
than that of John T. Carrillo, at present Police Judge of the city. He is a
native son — the son and the grandson of native sons, and belongs to one of tin-
oldest and best known families of California. He is a descendant of Jose
Raymundo Carrillo, a native of Loreto, who came to California in 1769. Of
him Bancroft says: " He may be regarded as the founder of the Carrillo fam
ily, which must be considered in several respects the leading one in California,
by reason of the number and prominence of its members and of their connec
tion by marriage with so many 'of the best families, both native and pioneer."
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 181
Captain Carrillo married Tomasa Ignacia Lugo and their sons, Carlos, Jose
and Domingo, were among the most prominent citizens of the Mexican period
of California history. Their only daughter, Maria Antonia, married Captain
Jose de la Guerra y Noriega, one of the most brilliant figures in Santa Barbara
history.
Carlos Antonio Carrillo, grandfather of Juan J., was born at Santa Bar
bara in 1783. He began life as a soldier and was engaged in many military
affairs. In 1830 he was elected a member of the Mexican Congress and worked
earnestly for the interests of his country and the preservation of the missions.
One of his speeches, "El Exposicion sobre el Fondo Piadoso " was the first
production of a native Calif ornian, printed in book form. In 1837, his brother
Jose Antonio, who was an active politician, secured for Carlos an appointment
as governor of California, with the privilege of locating the capital of the state
at his pleasure. In consequence of this document, the original of which is now
in the possession of Mr. Juan J. Carrillo, Senor Carlos Carrillo chose Los
Angeles as capital and was inaugurated there with an elaborate ceremony — the
only time that Los Angeles was ever made the capital. The distinction was
short-lived, however, as Governor Alvarado refused to recognize the authority
of his Uncle Carlos and after a brief and bloodless military campaign, Don
Carlos retired from the field. He was the grantee of the Sespe Rancho and
of Santa Rosa Island. He died in 1852. Bancroft says of him: "In person
Don Carlos, like most of his brothers and cousins, was large and of magnifi
cent presence, distinguished for his courteous and gentlemanly manners. In
all California there was no more kind-hearted, generous, popular and inoffen
sive citizen than he." His wife was Josefa Castro : his sons, Jose, Pedro C.
and Jose Jesus ; his daughters, Josefa, wife of Win. J. Dana ; Encarnacion,
wife of Thomas Robbins ; Francisca, wife of A. B. Thompson ; Manuela, wife
of John C. Jones, and Maria Antonia, wife of Lewis Burton.
Pedro C. Carrillo, father of Juan J., was born in Santa Barbara and was
educated in Honolulu and Boston. On his return to California he took an act
ive part in affairs, filling various offices in Santa Barbara and Los Angeles and
being the grantee of Alamos y Agua Caliente, Camulos ranches and San Diego
island. During the American conquest, he favored the Americans and was
active in their behalf. In 1847 he was the guide who led a messenger from
Stockton to Fremont through the enemy's country. He was made receiver of
the port of San Diego, after the American occupation and later served as
receiver of port at Santa Barbara and at San Pedro. He spent the last years
of his life in Santa Monica and died here May 28th, 1888. His wife was Josefa
Bandini, a sister of Mrs. Arcadia de Baker and the oldest one of the famous
Bandini sisters. It was she who made the American flag which was used by
Commodore Stockton at San Diego — the first American flag raised in South
ern California.
182 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Juan J. Carrillo was born in Santa Barbara, September 8th, 1842. When
he was ten years old he was sent with a party of boys, sons of Californians, to
New York, making the trip around the Isthmus of Panama in charge of a
priest, who placed the youths in a private family in New York City. The
woman in charge proved to be a fraud, and the boys were taught nothing and
were badly treated in every way, until an old friend of Mr. Carrillo's father
discovered them. Then Juan and his brother were removed to the College of
the Holy Cross at Worcester, Mass., near Boston. Here they remained six
years, returning to California in 1858.
In 1864 Mr. Carrillo came to Los Angeles and entered the store of Caswell,
Ellis and Wright, then one of the largest establishments in the state. He re
mained with this firm for 14 years, then served for four years as city marshal
of I.os Angeles. In 1881 he located in Santa Monica and has since that date
been intimately associated with the history of this place. He acted for a time as
agent for the Baker interests in this vicinity and has been instrumental in se
curing many valuable concessions for the city. For instance, in 1884 Mrs. Baker
deeded the site of Woodlawn cemetery to him and he in turn, without compen
sation, deeded the same to the city. In 1888 he was elected as city trustee and
for twelve years thereafter he was re-elected regularly, thus serving the city
longer than any other trustee ever chosen. During this time he was for seven
years, from 189x5 to 1897, president of the board and thus acting mayor of the
city. During his entire service he gave much time and energy to city affairs
and Santa Monica has never had a more disinterested and honest official. In
1888 he took an active part in tie contest made by Santa Monica against the
proposed outfall sewer of Los Angeles, with its discharge on the beach between
what is now Pier avenue and Venice. Mr. Carrillo personally canvassed the
Ballona district and secured the signatures of the property owners to a protest
against this action and to an agreement which prevented Los Angeles from
securing the proposed right of way for the sewer. When the first board of trade
was organized in 1888, Mr. Carrillo was chosen as secretary, an office which he
filled for seven years. He was one of the active movers in the efforts to secure
a wharf and a sewer system, and has always been a strong advocate of good
roads and parks. During his service on the board of trustees he accomplished
much toward securing improved roads and streets. Old citizens have not for
gotten the long and weary fight he made to secure the road to Calabasas in
January, 1897. After his retirement from the council he served two years as
superintendent of streets, from 1904 to 1906.
In personal appearance and in character Mr. Carrillo is a worthy son of his
ancestors, indeed, the description of his grandfather might apply with equal
truth to himself. Honorable in all his dealings, generous to a fault and kind-
hearted, even to his enemies, probably no man in Santa Monica commands a
more sincere regard. He was married, October 7th, 1869, to Miss Francisca
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
183
Roldan, a woman of great beauty of character and person. She died in Los
Angeles March 2nd, 1897, and her funeral here in Santa Monica was a rare testi
monial of the love and respect which were felt for her and her family.
Mr. and Mrs. Carrillo had 13 children, of whom are now living Elisa, Mrs.
Eliza Lopez; Atala, Mrs. A. H. Calkins; Diana, Mrs. Will Holton; of the sons,
Ygnacio is a well-known dentist, practicing in Los Angeles ; Eulogio is assistant
engineer on the Southern Pacific; Leopold, or Leo, as he is more familiarly
known, is traveling in the east, where his talents as a monologist and caricaturist
have given him distinction. One son, Charles, died in Santa Monica, April ist,
1905, anA the youngest son, Octavio, is now in the employ of the Southern' Pa
cific. In 1904 Mr. Carrillo married a second time, Mrs. Eva Fellner, an accom
plished and beautiful woman.
W. S. VAWTER.
CHAPTER IV.
GROWTH. 1890-1900.
NATURALLY, Santa Monica shared in the reaction which followed the
too rapid expansion of 1887-88; but she did not suffer the collapse which
followed in many sections of Southern California. She was in no sense
a " boom " town and aside from some speculation in South Santa Monica prop
erty and some rather previous railway schemes, her growth had been a natural
result of her advantages and it continued during the new decade with a steady
forward movement which gave a solid basis for the marvelous prosperity of her
later history.
The population of the town, as shown by the census of 1890, was 1580, an
increase of over 400 per cent, above the population of 1880. The assessed
valuation of the town, which under the inflated values of 1887 had been swelled
to $2,405,048, dropped back to $1,565.773 in 1891. Since that date, however,
the annual assessments have shown a remarkably even and healthy increase up
to the present time.
One of the most important events of the year 1890 was the completion of
the street car line to the Soldiers' Home. This line ran out Nevada street and
was formally opened to the public April 3rd, with a special trip followed by a
banquet at the Hotel Arcadia, where many complimentary things were said of
W. D. Yawter, whose enterprise had provided the town with a street car service
-extending from the southern limits of the city to the Soldiers' Home. The
route from the railroad bridge was along Ocean avenue to Utah, on Utah to
Third, thence on Third to Nevada avenue, which leads in a direct line to the
Soldiers' Home, a distance of three miles. This boulevard had already been
improved and adorned with handsome shade trees. All " old timers " retain
many recollections of this line which, for a number of years, was the only means
•of communication with the home and which was only superseded by the present
electric line in 1905.
There was a strong feeling that Santa Monica was now sufficiently urban
1o support an electric light system and applications for franchises for this pur
pose were made by two different parties ; one was granted to Messrs. H. M.
Russell and H. A. Winslow, but they were apparently not able to " make good "
at this time.
Tn February, W. S. Vawter was appointed postmaster to succeed Miss Mag
gie Finn, who had held the office during the past four years. Many people yet
186 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
recall their astonishment when, on going for their mail on the morning of April
ist, 1890, to the old location on Second street, where the postoffice had been for
years, they found no postoffice there. During the previous night the change of
administration had unexpectedly taken place and the postoffice had been moved
to its new quarters in the bank building on Third street. The new offices were
fitted up temporarily, but within a few weeks were supplied with the latest style
of boxes and conveniences and was then counted as being one of the best equipped
postoffices in the county. It was presided over at this time by " Johnny " Sum-
merfield, who made a genial deputy postmaster.
In April, 1890, the new board of trustees, after the election of Messrs. John
Steere and J. L. Allen, was made up of these two with J. J. Carrillo, who was
elected president of the board, a position which he ably filled for seven years,
T. L. Lewis and E. J. Vawter. E. K. Chapin was re-elected treasurer, M.
K. Barretto was marshal and H. E. Pollard town clerk. The matter of licenses
aroused a good deal of discussion this year, as many objected to the plan of
licensing business houses at all, and others thought the licenses altogether more
than the traffic could bear. But, in spite of much pressure, the new board made
few changes and continued the liquor license at $300 per year, only making an
effort to limit the number of saloons to ten.
Messrs. Jones and Baker this year deeded the bluff and the city park to the
town, on condition that they be kept up as public parks. A large number of streets
were graded, graveled and sidewalked. The question of providing for some
disposition of the sewage was also agitated and a solution was thought to be
offered to that and the wharf problem which so troubled the town. But after
much talk, legal advice was sought and, in view of the later developments, the
following extracts may be of interest : " In order that there might be no un
certainty in the matter, the town attorney was instructed to employ assistant
counsel. This was done and two opinions were read before the board and a
number of citizens on Monday night, one from R. F. H. Variel, the other from
Messrs. Edgerton & Blades. Shorn of all unnecessary verbiage, the opinions
were based upon the proposition, can the town authorities of Santa Monica
legally submit to the voters, at an election called for that purpose, the proposi
tion of voting $40,000 in bonds for the ostensible purpose of constructing a
sewer system, having its outlet in the ocean, but really for the purpose of aiding
a private corporation in building a wharf? This proposition was ably argued
by the gentlemen and they very properly came to the conclusion that the city's
funds could not be legally expended in that way."
In November the ladies of the W. C. T. U., who had maintained a public
reading room and library since 1886, offered to turn their library of 800 volumes
over to the city, provided the city would maintain it as a public library. The
proposition was accepted and the Santa Monica public library was thus established^
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 187
1891
This is a memorable year in Santa Monica annals for many reasons. It
developed that the Southern Pacific had secured the right of way along the
beach to the canon and purchased the Santa Monica Heights tract. In the
fall surveyors began work and the company secured a franchise from the city
to build a line under the bluff and to build a wharf, within one year, under a
$5000 forfeit. At the same time the Santa Monica Wharf and Railway Ter
minal Company was applying for a franchise to build a wharf at South Santa
Monica and offered to put up a tract of thirteen acres of land as indemnity.
This offer was received with a good deal of derision at the time, as the land
was supposed to be utterly useless " sand dunes." The Los Angeles and Pacific
road had been revived — to a certain extent — and was also endeavoring to secure
a franchise to build a wharf ; but the $5000 forfeit demanded by the board of
trustees seemed to put a damper upon their wharf ambitions. With so many
propositions coming before it, the board of trustees had some very lively sessions,
especially as there were strong objections to everything proposed and much
" kicking " at the meetings and through the papers. The harbor question also
demanded more or less attention and the board of trustees and board of trade
were prompt to act whenever an opportunity presented itself.
In October H. M. Russell and VI. A. Winslow, two enterprising citizens of
Santa Monica, again applied for a franchise for an electric light plant, which
was at once granted them. They took steps to carry out their plans and made
a beginning toward this important improvement.
Among the business buildings of the year was the Bryson block on the
corner of Utah avenue and Second street, which was erected at a cost of some
$15,000. Other buildings were the handsome home of Dr. Elliott, a Minneapolis
capitalist, on the corner of Nevada and Fifth and the homes of Dr. Place and
J. L. Allen. In January, 1891, Mr. Frederick Rindge visited Santa Monica and
was so pleased with the place that he purchased two lots on Ocean avenue and
soon thereafterward began the erection of a residence which cost some Si 2,000
and was occupied for a number of years by his family as a home. At the same
time he began making other investments in this locality and in 1892 purchased
the Malibn ranch of H. W. Keller and at once built a handsome residence and
made substantial improvements on this fine property.
1892.
The year of 1892 was a prosperous one. The reaction after the depression
of the past two or three years had set in here, although this was generally a
season of depression in the state. The Southern Pacific pushed its improve
ments and work was well under way on the long wharf before the close of the
year. It is estimated that their expenditures in the vicinity of Santa Monica
for the year were not less than $200,000. The Santa Fe also came in during
188
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
the year and spent considerable money in making improvements in South Santa
Monica. A large amount of money was also expended at the Soldiers' Home
in putting up new buildings and improving the water service. These large sums
put into circulation, of course, meant much to the merchants and the working
men of Santa Monica. The Keller block on the corner of Third and Utah was
planned and partially built, at a cost of $25,000. The Windemere and the Para
dise, both intended as first-class family hotels, were built during the year.
During the summer there were no vacant houses and tennis, polo and cricket
games and tournaments were attractions which drew many visitors. On June
1 8th the Santa Fe trains reached Santa Monica and the event was duly cele
brated. The road at
once put on seven
trains daily and made
a round-trip fare of
seventy- five cents.
The Outlook esti
mates that in July
frlly 5000 people
came to Santa Monica
on one Sunday. In
September the fare
to Santa Monica was
d r o p p e d to fifty
cents, the rcsrlt of
competition. The Los
Angeles and Pacific
road was not yet
dead and many rumors were rife about it during the season. It had now
passed into the hands of the Terminal Company and great things were promised
from it.
1893.
In 1893 Messrs. W. D., W. S. and E. T. Yawter sold their interest in " The
First National Bank of Santa Monica" to Senator Jones and the bank passed
under the new administration, with Robert F. Jones president and cashier. It
was soon afterward made a state bank under the name of the " Bank of Santa
Monica." During the panic of July, 1893, this bank was undisturbed and it
has since that time enjoyed the favor of Santa Monicans. The Keller block
when completed was one of the largest and handsomest structures in Santa
Monica. The upper stories were opened as a first-class hotel, while J. B. Folsom
and \V. T. Gillis occupied the large storerooms below. The Yawter block on
Third street was completed in September. This was a one-story block, hand-
NORTH THIRD STREET.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 189
somely finished, to be used as the office of the Santa Monica Commercial Com
pany, the Santa Monica Mill and Lumber Company and the Santa Monica and
Soldiers' Home Company, all of which were Vawter interests. The Santa Mon
ica soda plant was a new establishment of this year, under the management of
Carl F. Schader and Jesse Yoakum. One of the most substantial improvements
was the erection of the handsome residence on the corner of Ocean avenue and
Arizona by Mrs. Doria Jones, now the Elks' club house. The North Beach
Bath House Company was incorporated in December by the Jones interests to
build the North Beach bath house and pavilion. This establishment when finished
was one of the most complete in equipment in the country. July ist the Arcadia
was opened under new management, having been closed for a yeai or more,
liefore opening it was thoroughly renovated and refitted, some $10,000 being
spent in bringing it up to date.
A special election was called for March 2ist to vote upon the question of
bonding the town to the amount of $40,000 for the construction of a sewer
system. The cairpaign elicited a good deal of discussion and considerable feel
ing, if we may jrdge by this letter which the Outlook published, with a dignified
reply :
" Messrs. Fisher & Wooclworth : There is an understanding on the streets
that if you publish to malign any one who votes against bonds, your press will
be taken and throwed into the sea and your papers, public and private, will be
taken for a bonfire."
Notwithstanding the talk the vote cast was light and stood 148 against and
only 84 for, thus disposing of the sewer question for the time being. But the
" sewer question " is one which will not down for long in Santa Monica, and
it continued to be a subject of interest — and contention. In June J. J. Davis
of Los Angeles applied for a franchise for electric light plant, agreeing to pay
therefor $25.00 annually for fifty years. September loth electric lights were
turned on the street for the first time, twelve incandescent lights being furnished.
The year was prolific in " gala " days. July 4th was celebrated with unusual
vigor, speeches, bands and amusements of every kind being provided and the
largest crowds ever known in the history of Santa Monica being present, esti
mated at from ten to fifteen thousand. The visit of Vice-President Stevenson
was duly noted. In October the new restaurant on the big " long wharf " was
opened with an elaborate banquet.
1894.
This was a comparatively quiet year. The great strikes and the general
depression in the east caused a cessation of large investments and no railroad
extensions of account were made. After a very exciting contest Messrs. Robert
F. Jones and Norman A. Roth were elected trustees, while Messrs. Carrillo,
Yawter and Lewis held over. Mr. Robert F. Jones served continvorsly as
190 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
trustee from this time until 1902 and after 1896 was president of the board and
acting mayor of the town.
The most important improvement of the year was the North Beach bath
house, which was opened to the public in the spring. This building was 450
by 100 feet and was provided with a large plunge, elegantly furnished parlor,
ballroom, hot and cold salt water bath, two dining rooms, roof garden, etc. ; the
whole structure represented an outlay of $50,000 and was at the time the most
complete establishment of the kind on the Pacific coast. The electric light plant
was completed during the year and was considered one of the best in the country,
furnishing satisfactory service at very reasonable rates. The water company
expended some $15,000 in improving its service and the Outlook estimates that
about two hundred thousand dollars represented the cost of improvements which
included a large number of residences.
1895.
The year 1895 opened with a flurry of excitement over the treatment the
harbor question and Santa Monica were receiving from the Los Angeles Herald.
This paper had at first been an able advocate of the Santa Monica side of the
harbor question; but during 1894 it passed under new management and at once
changed front and began making most unjustifiable attacks upon this town, Port
Los Angeles and the Southern Pacific Company. On Wednesday evening, Jan
uary 23rd, one of the most exciting meetings ever held in Santa Monica took
place under the auspices of the board of trade. The resolutions passed will
show the bitterness which had been engendered by the " harbor fight."
" Whereas, on numerous occasions, a morning paper published in the city
of Los Angeles, has taken occasion to publish in its columns, as true, many false
and misleading statements respecting the unfitness — as it falsely alleges — of
Port Los Angeles for improvement by the general government as a deep-water
harbor for the city of Los Angeles, and in support of its alleged unfitness has
published communications containing false and defamatory statements in rela
tion to the effect of storms in and upon the bay of Santa Monica, the wharf
therein, the principal projector thereof, and the landing, loading and unloading
of vessels thereat; and has been endeavoring by fraud to induce Congress, with
out further examination or evidence, to make large appropriations and have them
expended in what we believe to be useless attempts to make of the bay of San
Pedro a safe, useful and valuable deep-water harbor. And whereas, it is falsely,
maliciously and fraudulently asserted that ' the legislative delegation from South
ern California are (is) a unit for a deep-water harbor at San Pedro ', and ' only
those who are controlled by the influences which emanate from the councils and
cabals of C. P. Huntington ever attempt to combat the plain expression of public
opinion ' — and ' only occult and venal influences can defeat the object of the
present agitation.' And whereas, the said newspaper has recently published a
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 191
communication on the harbor question (purporting to be by a Santa Monican)
which is grossly false (as has been incontrovertibly shown).
"' Therefore, be it resolved, that the aforesaid editorials and communications
which have from time to time appeared in the aforesaid paper are malicious
libels of the bona fide residents of Santa Monica and others who advocate the
superior fitness and claims of Santa Monica harbor as a site for a deep-water
harbor and the people of Santa Monica are advised that the paper is unworthy
of the support of the citizens of Santa Monica and the surrounding country."
These resolutions were enforced by ringing and heated speeches from many
citizens and were adopted with much applause. About this time occurred the
famous episode of the " fake " list of Santa Monicans sent into this same paper
which was getting up a memorial, signed by citizens. The initials of the "faked "
names, which were published in good faith by the paper in question spelled an
acrostic — ' The Fool Herald." It was this same petition in favor of San Pedro
which, according to the Times, was made up after " much consultation from
directories, compilation of acrostics and waste of editorial perspiration, and was.
lost and not even the office cat could give any idea of its whereabouts." The
Herald claimed that it had been stolen, presumably by advocates of the Santa
Monica side, and offered a reward ; later the document mysteriously reappeared ;
but the amount of influence it carried with it when finally delivered to the legis
lators probably did not seriously injure the Santa Monica side of the question.
In March, the board of trade, which had done most efficient service in pro
tecting and promoting the interests of Santa Monica, took steps to incorporate
as a chamber of commerce. The officers chosen under the new form were :
President, Robert F. Jones ; secretary, J. J. Carrillo, who had continuously served
as secretary for the board of trade for seven years, without compensation ; treas
urer, W. T. Gillis. Numerous committees were named and action was at once
taken to secure the encampment of the Grand Army of the Republic for the
coming summer and to arrange for representation at the Los Angeles fiesta. The
labors of the latter committee resulted in a beautiful floral float in the floral day
parade of La Fiesta.
In April the articles of incorporation of the Los Angeles and Santa Monica
Electric Railway Company were filed. The Outlook says : " This proposed
line is separate and apart from the bicycle line road promoted by Maj. Barrett,
-which it is understood will be backed by abundant eastern capital. This rather
unique style of road is to be operated upon a single rail with guard rail above.
A similar line is now in operation on Long Island. It has a speed possibility
far exceeding a mile a minute. The service is quick, safe and economical for
both passengers and freight. Maj. Barrett claims that the company organiza
tion is complete and the right-of-way agents will be in' the field within thirty
days." There was considerable talk about this " bicycle railway " and some
people really had hopes of speeding a mile a minute between Los Angeles and
192 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Santa Monica. In June a petition was received from Gen. Sherman of the
Pasadena and Pacific road asking for a franchise. But the trustees, having hud
a long and troublesome experience with the Los Angeles and Pacific road, were
wary of promises and denied this franchise; but in an amended form it was
granted later and active work on the line began. Some alarm was felt among
merchants and dealers of the town lest the coming of the electric road should
do them harm ; but the majority was largely in favor of the improvement. This
year steps were taken to construct a wagon road across the mountains to the
wilds of Calabasas and a good deal of talk was indulged in as to a bicycle path
from Los Angeles to Santa Monica, which should develope into a " boulevard."
Cyclemania was at its head during this period and for two or three summers
the greatest event of the season was the annual road race on July fourth from
the city to Santa Monica. A bicycle race track was completed by the Southern
Pacific with a grand stand which is described thus : " It lifts itself into the air
and spreadeth itself over a great area. It vaunteth itself as greater by far than
anything within 'steen yards, and it attracts as much attention as a bloomer club
upon parade. It is in very fact a thing to be proud of and carries the prophecy
of great races on the track and great crowds to see them and much comfort to
many people." In order to induce the " great crowds " the Southern Pacific
resorted to what were known as " postage stamp " tickets, entitling the holder
to passage both ways and admission to the bicycle track for the regular price
of the ticket. This created feeling on the part of the Santa Fe people and the
S. P. responded that they had expended some $12,000 in building the track and
if the Santa Fe people would bear half the expense, their tickets would be hon
ored also. The Santa Fe chose a less expensive way of retaliation. They
dropped the round-trip fare between Los Angeles and Santa Monica to twenty-
five cents and on Saturday and Sunday, October igth and 2Oth, 1895, the Santa
Fe sold round-trip tickets for five cents. Certainly Santa Monicans had " reason
able rates " for once.
The question of sewer bonds was again submitted to the people this year
and after some vigorous work on the part of the more progressive on September
3rd the $40,000 bonds were voted by a majority of seven to one, and thus the
first steps in creating a sewer system were at last taken.
Among other improvements of the year was the building of a new pavilion
on the beach by Eckert and Hopf, the gentlemen who had probably banqueted
more distinguished people than any other firm in Southern California : the build
ing of the Prohibition Congregational church and the plans for a Methodist
church to be built by F. H. Rindge. - On the South Side, the Santa Fe Company
were constructing their iron pipe wharf ; the Young Men's Christian Association
erected a pavilion and a number of cottages ; and a number of other cottages and
brildings were erected.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 193
1896.
The completion of the electric line to Santa Monica was heralded as another
" Sherman's March to the Sea." The initial trip was made on Wednesday,
April 1st, 1896, but it was no April fool this time — at last Santa Monica had
a real sure enough transportation line. Over five hundred guests were enter
tained by Santa Monica in honor of the day. The power house was decorated,
the schools dismissed at noon and the population turned out en masse. The
first car to arrive over the line was No. 65, with Pete Reel as motorneer, which
appeared at 3 140 in the afternoon, bringing city and county officials and prom
inent citizens and followed by a car loaded with tourists from Minneapolis.
Guns were fired and bands played and General Sherman and Mayor Pratt of
Minneapolis were decorated with floral offerings. Refreshments and speeches
followed, the principal address being made by John W. Mitchell. The officers
of the road were Gen. M. H. Sherman, E. P. Clark and W. D. Larrabee, to
whose enterprise and progressive spirit the city of Santa Monica and the entire
community owe one of the most completely equipped and satisfactory trolley
systems in the United States.
The municipal campaign this year was a lively one, several tickets being in
the field. As usual the question of licenses was the disturbing element. The
election resulted in the following officials : Trustees, Moses Hostetter, Robert
C. Gillis and J. J. Carrillo; library trustees, Dr. P. S. Lindsey, Fred H. Taft, J.
Walter Gray, T. H. Wells and William Stevenson ; clerk, Charles S. Dales ; treas
urer, E. W. Boehme ; marshal, George B. Dexter. This board took up the con
tinued story of the sewer troubles. A contract had been let to Frank H. Mohr
to construct the mains, and he put up a certified check for $1000 as security.
He failed to make good on his contract and the check was retained by the city.
The history of this check and the amount of legislation and law expended upon
the matter would fill a good-sized volume in itself. In the end, after a decision
by the Superior court, in 1897, the check was finally returned to the assigns of
the contractor. It was discovered that the sewer bonds were illegal anyway
after the contract had been forfeited, and during the fall work was begun on the
construction of a main sewer under the Yrooman act, which is the beginning of
a new chapter in sewer matters.
In May the police department was created and Messrs. George F. See and
A. L. Forsyth were appointed policemen. Arrangements were completed this
year for sprinkling the streets with salt water. Owing to the long continued
dry season the supply of water for sprinkling had become diminished and economy
was necessary here as elsewhere throughout Southern California.
This was one of the gayest seasons ever known here. Tournaments, tennis,
polo races, croquet, bicycle meets, horse races and swimming contests furnished
amusement for the " smart set " and the Sunday crowds alike. Trolley parties
were a new entertainment which found favor and were frequent. In April the
13
194 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Hotel Men's Mutual Association, with representatives from all parts of the
United States, were entertained with a banquet and a day of sports, including
a barbecue, a battle of flowers and a " ring " tournament. The Southern Cali
fornia Editorial Association was banqueted at the pavilion of Eckert and Hopf.
The Knights of Pythias held their annual encampment in City Park and the
district camp meeting of the Methodist church was held on the ocean front, a
large tent having been put up there for their use. The Citrus Wheelmen of
Los Angeles opened a club house on Utah avenue. At South Santa Monica there
were many campers and cottagers, and band concerts and lectures provided en
tertainment.
Notwithstanding the hard times of a dry season, considerable building was
done during the year and a good deal of street work was put through.
1897.
In February, 1897, the Santa Monica Water Company incorporated, with
a capital stock of $1,000,000, all subscribed, Senator Jones holding 7845 shares
of the lo.ooo shares issued. The board of directors were Juan Bandini, Charles
H. Forbes, Roy Jones, E. J. Gorham and A. C. Hamilton. The objects of the
corporation, " to deal in real estate and water rights, to erect buildings, construct
reservoirs and pipe lines for the purpose of saving and distributing water for
domestic purposes or irrigation and to furnish water to any town or city."
The local Third-street electric line was opened in May and July ist the
" short line " via Sixteenth street was first put in use and at once proved popular.
It was double tracked and two miles shorter than the old route via Sherman.
The entire line was double tracked this year and new cars added and this most
important factor in the evolution of the city became at once so popular that
the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe steam lines were compelled to take off their
trains because of lack of patronage.
On account of the proximity of the Soldiers' Home, Memorial day has al
ways been an occasion of particularly interesting and memorable services in
Santa Monica. While the exercises at the home are always largely attended
and most interesting, a large number of the veterans usually join in the celebra
tion at Santa Monica. Fort Fisher Post, G. A. R1., and the Women's Relief
Corps, with the children of the public schools have taken the lead in these exer
cises and many orators of note have spoken at them. General Horace Sargeant
Binney, who was for a number of years a resident of Santa Monica, delivered
some of the most notable addresses on these occasions. Maj. J. A. Donnell was
another favorite speaker.
On June 22nd the Queen's diamond jubilee was celebrated, one of the gala
days in the memory of Santa Monicans. The affair was under the auspices of
the British residents of Southern California, but was participated in by repre
sentatives of every nation and land. A day of sports had been arranged and
many prizes offered and the fun was fast and furious.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 195
The revival meetings of the Rev. Dr. Munhall held during June were some
what novel in the annals of Santa Monica, as they attracted the attention and
interest of large audiences and of many who were not in the habit of attending
such services. The annual encampment of the Seventh Regiment was one of
the memorable events of this summer, over five hundred members participating
and giving Santa Monica a taste of military life with their cavalry men, naval
reserves, drills and evolutions, to say nothing of the sports and grand ball. In
Tune four hundred members of the Los Angeles chamber of commerce banqueted
at Eckert & Hopf's pavilion. These gentlemen for many years sustained the
reputation of serving the best fish dinner to be found in California and their
restaurant and pavilion was the scene of many festal occasions. The Arcadia
was this year sold by Simon Reinhart to the Pacific Improvement Company,
otherwise the Southern Pacific, and passed under new management.
The board of trustees spent much brain matter and nerve force in wrestling
with the sewer problem. There was all sorts of trouble over rights of way for
the proposed sewer and the citizens protested strongly against the plans to be
carried out under the Yrooman act. Steps had already been taken to build the
main sewer and the lines for it laid out, to be carried to the south city limits
and fifteen hundred feet into the ocean for discharge. But, after a public meet
ing, it was decided to again call a bond election and on August 4th the third
election to vote sewer bonds took place and the proposition carried. A few
weeks later these bonds were sold at a premium of $3355 — nearly to the paralysis
of the board and the town. This seems to have been a good year for bonds for
the school bonds, $15,000, voted on September 4th, were also sold at a large
premium. They bore interest at seven per cent., however. After long and
persistent effort on the part of J. J. Carrillo, the sum of $800 was finally raised
for the wagon road to the Calabasas district. The county added fifteen hundred
and this road was finally built : also Ocean avenue was opened to the canon
to connect with the new road. A systematic attempt to improve the bluff, which
had been named Linda Vista Park, was undertaken this year.
1898.
The year 180,8 opened with a vigorous stirring up of the saloon question
and the revoking of two licenses by the board of trustees, for violation of the
ordinance regulating the business. This was the occasion of much rejoicing
on the part of the better element and was the forerunner of better things, the
retail liquor license being raised in April to $500. A couple of weeks later five
saloon keepers in Santa Monica canon were arrested for violating the county
ordinances.
The " news from Manila " and the probable war was the absorbing interest
of this year. There was much talk of the inadequacy of Pacific coast protection
and timid souls feared to find a foreign war vessel swooping into Santa Monica
196 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
harbor at almost any hour. In order to aid in protecting our country, a com
pany of home guards was organized in Santa Monica, May 3rd ; J. B. Proctor,
who was a past master in military tactics, being chosen captain, George Wil
liams, who had seen twelve years of service in the regular army, was first lieuten
ant ; Victor Hopf, second lieutenant. This company enrolled 75 members, many
of them being prominent citizens of Santa Monica and a large number of them
being native Californians. At the Soldiers' Home a company of five hundred
veterans was already organized and had offered itself for service at the call of
the government. With such an example at hand, it is no wonder that the
younger generation in the vicinity were enthusiastic. The Santa Monica com
pany was made Co. H of the Eighth regiment of National Guards. On the
resignation of Mr. E. J. Vawter, Jr., who had succeeded Captain Proctor, C.
M. O'Dell was chosen captain of the organization. It soon became apparent
that the chances for the Eighth regiment to be called into service were slight
and such of the members as were anxious to get into the field sought other op
portunities to enlist.
In March the Santa Monica Beach Improvement Company was organized,
with a capital stock of $100,000, and with a strong directorate, consisting of
F. A. Miller, then proprietor of the Hotel Arcadia : M. H. Sherman, president
of the Pasadena and Pacific electric line ; E. P. Clark of the same company ; W.
D. Larrabee, superintendent of the electric road ; F. W. Richardson, Jacob Kurtz.
Robert F. Jones, Charles H. Forbes, W. H. Perry, Roy Jones and R. C. Gillis.
The company proposed to secure a lease of the beach front, build a pleasure
wharf, erect neat cottages and other buildings on the beach and maintain and
operate boats for fishing and pleasure.
The year opened with prospects of two new wharves — which ought to have
satisfied the most exacting. After infinite difficulties, bids were called for the
outfall sewer and the wharf to carry it ; but when they were submitted, there
were so many and strong protests that all were rejected. T. C. Elliott also
applied for a franchise to build a wharf at the foot of Railroad street. This
proposition was looked upon favorably ; but the Southern Pacific blocked it by
claiming a previous franchise to this location. On Wednesday, April I4th, 1898,
the contract for the outfall sewer was finally let to Thomas Thompson for the
sum of $11,720, the deeds to the right of way having at last been secured. In
June Kinney & Ryan applied for the use of the piles for the outfall sewer for
wharf purposes and were granted the privilege. The same month it was an
nounced that the new pleasure wharf would be built between Railroad avenue
and the North Beach bath house and the contract was let for the same. Both
of these structures were completed during the summer and added much to the
beach attractions, as they furnished every convenience for boating and fishing.
The Lincoln school building was completed in June and was dedicated by
the graduating exercises of the high school class of the year. In September
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 197
Santa Monica entertained three conventions at the same time, the Democratic,
which met in a large tent on Ocean avenue ; the Silver Republican, which held
forth at the Arcadia, and the People's party, which met in Odd Fellows' hall.
This was the year of fusions and a great deal of " fusing " was clone during
these sessions, with small results, as appeared in November.
1899.
January, 1899, was marked by the launching of the Santa Monica Improve
ment Club, an organization which had long been discussed and from which
much was hoped. J. J. Davis was elected president, E. B. McComas vice-
president, F. H. Taft secretary. Dr. S. P. Lindsey, treasurer. Sub-committees
on finance, licenses, streets, pavilion, transportation, health and veterans' asso
ciation were appointed and a vigorous campaign for lower fares ; for higher
license for saloons ; to secure the erection of a suitable pavilion for public meet
ings ; and to capture the annual encampment of the veterans' association was
begun. But like many other good things in Santa Monica, the Improvement Club
seems to have exhausted its energy in getting started and it soon disappears from
the scene, having accomplished only one very substantial change. Largely
through its efforts the liquor license was this year raised from $300 to $500. A
lively contest between the saloon men and the druggists followed this action.
It was claimed that the druggists were regularly selling liquor without paying
any license, and after considerable sparring, a suit was begun against a drug
gist. The druggists, however, pleaded unintentional violation of ordinance and
the suits were dropped.
During this year the electric line on Ocean avenue to Montana was built
and the first car was run on December 28th. In October the Southern Pacific
reduced its train service to one train a day, instead of three. As they had the
contract for carrying the mails, this aroused great indignation and caused much
inconvenience to the business men of the town. Vigorous protests were made
and resulted in a mail service over the electric road. In August it was
announced that a new electric line was proposed between Santa Monica and
Redondo. Mr. Abbot Kinney was the originator of the scheme and was con
fident that the project would be carried out, thus opening up a section of beach
territory that had not yet been utilized and establishing a new and strong
attraction for the tourist as well as a new and rapid transit line. This plan did
not materialize at the time, but it has since been carried out in the Playa del
Rev and Redondo line. Another ambitious scheme which was ahead of the
time was the formation of the San Pedro and Santa Monica Excursion Com
pany, which put the little steamer, J. C. Elliott, on to make daily trips between
the two points, landing at the Kinney and Ryan wharf. Some very enjoyable
trips were thus made, but the venture did not prove profitable and was dropped.
Among new brildings of this year were an addition to the Bank of Santa
198 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Monica, the Collins building, corner of Utah and Second : the Tappener block
on Third street, and the new power house of the Santa Monica
Electric Company on the beach. This was a substantial improvement
costing some $25,000. The gas plant was also built this year, including the
largest gas tank in the state, the entire expenditure being over $40,000. Gas
was turned into the mains December I4th and was a much appreciated improve
ment. In July, Mr. R. C. Gillis purchased 1,000 feet of beach front, north of
the North Beach Bathhouse, put in a walk and erected several well constructed
cottages. The Sisters of the Holy Name selected Santa Monica as a site for their
convent this year and opened their school on Fourth street during the construc
tion of their handsome building on the corner of Third and Arizona. December
27th saw the destruction by fire of the Casino, which was built by the Santa
Monica Improvement Company in 1888 and which had been the summer home
of tennis in Southern California for many years and had seen many brilliant
social affairs. The fire was evidently the work of an incendiary and caused a
heavy loss as the insurance was small.
PORT Los ANGELES. — From the time of the abandonment of the Santa
Monica wharf by the Southern Pacific Company, in 1878, until the building
of the " Long Wharf '' in 1892-3, the people of this city hoped and worked for
a new commercial wharf, which they firmly believed was all that was necessary
to make their town an important center of commerce. During the later
eighties and 1890-91, the agitation for securing a wharf was constant and
sometimes became acrimonious.
About this time it became certain that the Santa Fe would build into Santa
Monica. It also became evident that the new wharf completed in 1888 at Redondo
was seriously encroaching on the business of San Pedro harbor and diverting
freight from the Southern Pacific to the Santa Fe road. On Sunday, May 20.
1890, C. P. Hvmtington, Col. Crocker and other Southern Pacific officials, visited
Santa Monica and made a careful examination of the town and surroundings.
Mr. Huntington listened attentively to the arguments which various citizens
presented as to the expediency of building a wharf at Santa Monica, and the
great railroad magnate assured them that Santa Monica ought to have a wharf.
After this, other S. P. men visited the town and the citizens of Santa Monica
appointed a committee to visit San Francisco and confer with the officials of the
Southern Pacific and make propositions looking to the building of a wharf, —
even proposing to raise a subsidy to secure the prize. The community was kept
in uncertainty as to the intention of the railroad people until 1890 when the
Southern Pacific applied for a wharf franchise and put up a $5000 bond if the
work were not begun within the specified time.
In August, 1891, a corps of S. P. surveyors arrived, made camp in the
canyon, and began to make surveys. It was then learned that the S. P. Com
pany had secured title through Abbot Robinson to the Santa Monica Heights
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 199
property, owned by Abbot Kinney, 247 acres on the north side of the canyon,
with several hundred feet of beach frontage. It was also learned that right of
way on the beach had been secured from Railroad street to the property of the
company. By January, 1892, it was understood that the wharf was to be built
north of the canyon and was to be the " longest wharf of its kind in the world."
The people of Santa Monica were at first disappointed at the location of the new
structure but when they learned of the elaborate plans to be carried out, they
were satisfied to have the finest wharf in California — no matter where it was
located.
March 6, 1892, the tunnel from the Railroad street to the beach was com
pleted so that the first train went through it. July 25th the first pile was driven.
The work was under the supervision of the Thomson Bridge Company, of San
Francisco, and was pushed as rapidly as men and money could carry it. In
November, J. M. Crawley General Manager of the S. P. brought down an
excursion of 200 merchants and members of the Chamber of Commerce from
Los Angeles to inspect the new structure which was then 2100 feet long; and a
little later H. E. Huntington, J. C. Stubbs and others of the S. P. officials in
spected the work and fully concurred in the decision that the best possible loca
tion for the wharf had been selected.
The first steamer landed on May i3th, and the Outlook, under the heading
'The Dawn of Prosperity" discourses thus: ''Thursday, May nth, 1893,
will long be remembered as a day fraught with deep significance to Santa
Monica. It was the forerunner of an era of prosperity which shall grow into
a permanent benefit, with results reaching into far ages. The important event
was the landing of the first deep sea-vessel at the mammoth wharf, now nearly
completed. The steamer San Mateo, of Comax, B. C., with a cargo of 430x3
tons of coal consigned to the Southern Pacific, (Captain Edward Parks)
enjoyed the honor of being the maiden vessel to touch at Port Los Angeles.
The citizens turned out in force to welcome the steamer, and fully 1000
people were present on the occasion, laden with flowers, the bright hues of which
transformed the big collier into a " bower of beauty." Some of the citizens of
Santa Monica had prepared speeches for the happy occasion, but evidently the
flowers were enough for the old salt who commanded the San Mateo. The
speeches were cut out. The editor of the Outlook had the advantage of the
rest, however, — he published his remarks in the next issue. Among them we
find this statement : " The full significance of the opening of the deep sea-port,
where rail and ship come together in this particular portion of the southwest,
is not yet apparent. It is a link in a grand commercial chain that will eventually
belt the globe with the shortest and quickest commercial transit."
It was confidently believed at this time that the completion of this wharf
would have an important bearing upon the " harbor question " and might ulti
mately result in making Santa 'Monica Bay the deep-sea harbor of this coast. In
200 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
the light of present developments, the importance attached to the building of
the wharf seems rather exaggerated; but it was generally thought at this time
that only facilities for shipping were needed to secure the trade of the Orient.
The fact that trade necessitates reciprocity seems to have been overlooked.
The wharf constructed at Port Los Angeles was certainly a structure worthy
of attention and admiration. The last spike was driven by Vice-president
Stevenson, who happened to be visiting in Santa Monica at the time, on July
I4th, 1893. The structure is 4,700 feet from the shore. The Long Beach
wharf, completed in May, of the same year, is 1600 feet; the Redondo wharf
was 800 feet, and the Outlook chronicles the San Pedro wharf as " o " feet in
length. In August the new pier was carefully inspected by the Board of Ex
aminers representing the various Marine Insurance companies and shipowners
and merchants. They stated : " A careful examination of the structure showed
that in design and execution every precaution had been taken for strength, and
due regard for safety while at same."- -"In view of the foregoing facts and with
the experience gained by many year's use of other outside ports in that vicinity
that are similarly situated, we are of the opinion that Port Los Angeles is a
suitable port of discharge and loading for steamers and sailing vessels."
In October the depot at the end of the wharf was completed and the dining
room opened with a banquet to the wharf builders and several Santa Monica
people. The wharf was at this time placed under the charge of A. M. Jamison,
agent, who still retains this position ; T. M. Polhemus, chief clerk ; F. H. Oswald
and W. T. Maher, clerks ; and Captain F. E. Dronfield, who had general super
vision of the wharf and charge of the tug Collis.
The approach of the wharf proper is 3120 feet long and 26 feet wide. On
the south side is a walkway eight feet wide with railing on both sides. The
materials used in the approach were 1500 piles, 975,000 feet of lumber and 37
tons of bolts and spikes. The main wharf widens out to 130 feet and is over
1500 feet in length. On the north side are coal bunkers and on the south the
depot, warehouses and every convenience for passengers and shippers. The
piles, of Oregon pine, were creosoted and set in such a manner as to make the
wharf practically immovable. It is known as one of the most substantially built
wharfs in the world and has stood the test of fifteen years without strain.
The Southern Pacific Company, in locating its wharf here was obliged to
do extensive work in order to secure a proper approach and ground for neces
sary warehouses, engine houses, and so on. The entire expenditure for the
Port Los Angeles undoubtedly reached a million dollars.
As soon as completed the passenger business between Los Angeles and San
Francisco practically ceased at other ports, as so much time was gained by land
ing at Port Los Angeles. Los Angeles was made a Port of Entry in 1893, with
Port Los Angeles, Redondo and San Pedro as sub-ports. Deep-sea vessels,
which could not enter the inner harbor at San Pedro, but must unload by the
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 201
aid of lighters, came to Port Los Angeles and nearly all deep-sea vessels reach
ing this coast since the completion of this pier unload here. In the earlier years
of its construction Port Los Angeles was the point of entry for the coal used
on the Southern Pacific system, and this item alone created a large business.
Very large shipments of railroad ties were also delivered here. With the adop
tion of oil as a fuel on the railroads, shipments of coal have fallen off and, with
the improvement of San Pedro inner harbor so that coastwise vessels can land,
lumber shipments have decreased. But the bulk of the deep sea tonnage is
received at Port Los Angeles, and is constantly increasing. Some statistics may
be of interest : In 1903, 283 vessels entered at Port Los Angeles and 302 sailed ;
18,733 passengers entered and 15,676 sailed. The import duties received were
$311,740; in 1904-5 the duties were $309,826.48; in 1905-6 duties and tonnage
amounted to $513,939.96.
THE HARIIOR QUESTION.
The question of the location of a deep-sea harbor to be constructed by the
government of the United States upon the coast of Southern California was,
for ten years, 1889-1899, the most vital interest of Santa Monica. It is true that
the contest was waged for the most part in Los Angeles and Washington and
between forces which gave little consideration to the interests of the town of
Santa Monica. It became, indeed, a national question in which individual inter
est was supposed to have little bearing; yet it directly affected every citizen of
Santa Monica and made the name of this place a familiar one in the political
and commercial world.
From the time of the building of the first wharf at Santa Monica in 1875,
the possibility of a breakwater and improvements which would make of this a
safe harbor of refuge and of commerce had been discussed. As the commercial
importance of Southern California increased, it became evident that in time the
government must assist in creating a harbor on this coast. Since 1871 efforts
had been made toward making an inner harbor at San Pedro and up to 1892 one
million dollars had been expended upon operations there. After the great ex
pansion in business of the later eighties, the question of what was to be done
toward creating a deep-sea harbor was pressed at Washington and in response
to it, a number of distinguished men, members of the Committee of Commerce
of the United States Senate, visited California.
During all the years of his editorship of the Outlook, L. T. Fisher had
made a careful study of the conditions here. He was also thoroughly familiar
with affairs at Wilmington. He had been assured by Captain H. C. Taylor, who in
1874-5 conducted the coast survey on this coast and made a chart of this bay, that the
conditions here were favorable to a deep-sea harbor, and he had consistently and
effectively proclaimed the advantages of Santa Monica as a sea-port.
October I3th, 1889. the Outlook publishes a "challenge" as follows: "We
202 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
challenge Colonel Mendell, Dr. Widney, General Brierly, and all others who
favor San Pedro as the best place for a harbor for deep-sea vessels to success
fully disprove the following propositions :
ist. Santa Monica is nearer by at least eight miles, to Los Angeles, the
commercial and railroad center of Southern California, than San Pedro.
2nd. Santa Monica Bay, by virtue of its shape, depth of water and general
topography, is a more suitable place for a deep-sea harbor than San Pedro.
3rd. Santa Monica Harbor, when enclosed by a breakwater, will remain
unchanged for all time to come, while a similar enclosure at San Pedro will
rapidly shoal and become worthless in less than a quarter of a century.
4th. Santa Monica is within a few miles of the material for a break
water, which can be obtained at less than two-thirds of the expense required at
San Pedro.
5th. Santa Monica having these advantages, it is neither the part of wisdom
nor of economy, for the general government to expend a large sum of money
upon a less favored community."
October 26th, 1889, Senator Frye, chairman of the Senate Committee on
Commerce, with Senators Dawe, of Massachusetts ; Platt, of Connecticut ; Davis,
of Minnesota ; Morgan of Alabama and Turpie of Indiana, visited San Pedro
and was shown the proposed deep water habor by Dr. Widney, Col. Mendell
and others interested. On this occasion, after listening to their eloquent ex
planations, Senator Frye remarked : " Well, as near as I can make out, you
propose to ask the Government to create a harbor for you out of the whole
cloth. The Lord has not given you much to start with, that is certain." A
day or two later the same party visited Santa Monica, spending a couple of
days here, as the guests of Senator Jones. That they were favorably impressed
is shown by their remarks quoted in the following issue of the Outlook. One
of them, after taking a view from the bluff, said, " Why, this is a better place
for a harbor than San Pedro." Another declared, " more can be done here with
$2000 than can be accomplished at San Pedro with $10,000. A third pointed
to the mouth of Santa Monica canyon and declared that nature certainly intended
that spot for a dock for repairing and building vessels. All of this, it must be
remembered, was before there was any question of railroad control. It was
considering the harbor proposition from a purely unbiased standpoint, by men
who had no interest, except to secure the best returns for the money expended
by the United States government.
In January, 1890, the Santa Monica Board of Trade sent a strong resolu
tion to General Vandever, then representing this district in Congress, asking
him to call attention to the commercial need of a deep sea harbor and present
the claims of Santa Monica Bay for the consideration of the government. As
a result of the agitation for a deep-sea harbor located 6n the shores of Southern
California, $5000 was appropriated to pay the expense of preparing
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 203
a project for a deep-sea harbor, to be located between Points Dume and Capis-
trano. A Board of Engineers of the War Department, consisting of Col. G.
H. Mendell, Lieut-Col. G. L. Gillispie and Lieut.-Col. W. H. H. Benyaurd,
was appointed. Of these men, Col. Mendell had been connected with the pro
jects for improving the inner harbor at San Pedro since 1871 and Col. Benyaurd
was then in charge of the work being done at that point. Naturally it Was
objected that they could not be expected to give an impartial judgment. Novem
ber 8th, 1890 these gentlemen visited Santa Monica and were driven about the
town and taken out to the canyon to inspect the supply of stone in Cold Water
canyon. They spent two days in this vicinity, made an examinationn of Ballona,
Redondo and of other points and then went to San Francisco. December igth,
1891 the report of this committee was submitted to Congress. Its conclusions
were : " In view of the fact that San Pedro Bay in its natural condition affords
better protection both from prevailing winds and from dangerous storms than Santa
Monica Bay;
"That protection can be secured at a less cost for equal development of
breakwater at the former than at the latter ;
"That a larger area of protected anchorage from the prevailing westerly
swells can be secured, the severe storms from the southwest being infrequent ;
"And that there is already an interior harbor that will be a valuable addition
to the outer harbor ;
"The Board considers San Pedro Bay as the better location for the deep-
water harbor provided for by the act."
Of course, the advocates of Santa Monica questioned whether any one of
these conclusions was borne out by an unbiased examination into the facts.
The Chamber of Commerce of Los Angeles had already taken a prominent
part in urging the necessity of a deep-water harbor in the vicinity of Los Angeles.
It now took decided action to secure an appropriation for San Pedro. A com
mittee consisting of H. Z. Osborne, Collector of Port; Henry T. Hazard,
W. H. Workman, Hervey Lindley and James Cuzner, drew up a memorial to
Congress and Gen. Lionel A. Sheldon was sent to Washington as the representa
tive of the Chamber of Commerce, to assist Mr. Bowers, then representing this
district.
It was by this time generally known that the Southern Pacific had decided
to abandon its wharf, upon which it had already expended a very large sum, at
San Pedro and build the wharf at Port Los Angeles. This put a new face upon
the situation. When it was known that one of the longest and most substantial
wharves in the world was to be put in at this point, it was felt that a new and
powerful argument had been added to those already presented in favor of Santa
Monica. And when it became evident that Collis P. Huntington had decided
that Santa Monica was the place for a deep-water harbor it was felt that victory
was almost certain. And yet, the very fact of Mr. Huntington's advocacy and
204 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
influence, was probably the fatal cause of San Pedro's final selection as the
point for the harbor. Another new factor in the situation was the Terminal
railway which, in 1891, built from Los Angeles to San Pedro and secured large
holdings at San Pedro in anticipation of harbor facilities.
When the matter of an appropriation for San Pedro was brought up in
Congress the item was thrown out and a clause was inserted authorizing a board
of five engineers, officers of the United States Army, to make a careful and
critical examination for a proposed deep-water harbor at San Pedro or Santa
Monica Bays and to report " which is a more eligible location for such a harbor
in depth, width and capacity to accommodate the largest ocean-going vessels,
and the commercial and naval necessities of the country, together with an esti
mate for the cost of the same."
In the summer of 1892, this new board, consisting of Colonel Wm. P.
Craighill, Lieut.-Col. Henry M. Robert, Lieut.-Col. Peter C. Hains, Major C.
VV. Raymond, and Major Thomas H. Handbury, all of the United States corps
of engineers was appointed and in September they arrived on the- coast and
announced a public meeting at the rooms of the Chamber of Commerce, Los
Angeles. The Santa Monica side of the case was presented by Judge Carpenter,
the San Pedro case was handled by J. de Barth Shorb, with Mr. Hood of the
S. P. and Mr. Gibbon of the Terminal, as their respective assistants. This board
submitted an elaborate and technical report which the editor of the Outlook
reviews in a thorough manner. He says : " The engineers of this board appear
to be handicapped also by circumstances. They were appointed by the Secre
tary of War, who is a large stockholder in a railroad terminating at San Pedro.
Then again, the preceding corps of engineers are government officers and
it is difficult to get these army people to decide one against another, except there
be some very glaring necessity for it. That Board should never have consisted
wholly of army engineers, however well they may have been selected. No such
body of men is capable of giving the best decision. Two of the men should have
been competent engineers, one a citizen and the other a government engineer :
another shot-Id have been a broad-guage commercial man, another a reputable
navigator and another a well-known and capable railroad man. Such a com
mittee would have represented every phase of the question in the most competent
manner.
We have before us a copy of the report of the Board which contains 120
pages, 26 of which constitute the report proper. A large share of the volume is
irrelevant matter. One of the appendices consists of 18 pages of shipping
statistics of Redondo. Turning to the report proper, there is a great deal of
rubbish to be cleared away in order to get at the real, competing facts. When
we come to the claims of San Pedro and Santa Monica as Harbor sites, which
is the real question, it will be observed that these engineers draw largely on the
report of their predecessors, whose work they were sent out here to revise and
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 205
supplement. Another fact that crops out throughout the report, is the effort
made to lessen the objections to San Pedro and exaggerate those of Santa
Monica. Nor are the comparisons at all times fair. The important features of
the discussion are literally buried under a mountain of verbosity and considera
tion of irrelevant topics which makes the report exceedingly confusing to the
general reader.
In noticing the shore line of Santa Monica Bay the report mentions the
rocky places, in front of which it is not proposed to place a breakwater and
neglects the real point from the S. P. Wharf, southward, where there are no
rocks and a good bottom for pile driving and anchorage. Again, on San Pedro
Bay, from Point Fermin to Timm's Point, all of which will form a part of the
shore line in the harbor, it is very rocky. This fact is not noticed, but mention
is specially made of the shore line further south where there are no rocks, and
which will not be within the limits of the harbor. It is claimed that the bottom
is irregular in the bay of Santa Monica, deepening towards Point Dume and to
wards Point Vincent. This is correct. But the bottom is regular and the water
deepens gradually, at the point where it is proposed to locate the harbor. The
area of San Pedro Bay is said to be a plateau, with the five fathom line half a
mile from shore and with a rocky bottom in the present anchorage, as is shown
by the presence of kelp. The facts show that the water is deep enough at
either place, with rocks at San Pedro and none at Santa Monica. Then where
does the superiority of San Pedro come in ?
It is admitted that Santa Monica Bay is protected to the southward by the
highlands and at the proposed harbor site it is protected from the northwest —
the exposure being mainly on the southwest. Catalina Island, it is admitted,
also adds in some degree as a shelter. San Pedro Bay is protected from a
northwester, and to some extent by Catalina, but entirely exposed to a south
easter. It quotes from the report of 1890 and admits, " The aggregate angle of
the exposure of the two bays is the same." Then, we ask again, what advantage
has San Pedro over Santa Monica? in the way of protection?
Santa Monica bay has also the advantage in being nearer Los Angeles, but
the matter is slurred over with the remark that the cost of transportation depends
upon grades and curves, and that the distance was so small that it was thought
unnecessary to give them any important weight in selecting a site. With all
deference to these learned gentlemen, we say that it is important. Fourteen
miles in the round trip for a hundred cars a day (which is not a large day's
run) would be 1400 miles on one car — nearly half the distance to New York.
Upon the cost of construction, the engineers differ. The report contends
that rock could be transported by the scow-load from Catalina Island, twenty-one
miles distant, to San Pedro cheaper than the same amount of material could be
brought from Coldwater canyon, eleven miles down grade by rail to Santa
Monica. Equally competent engineers deny this proposition.
206 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
As we have before said, a harbor is an improvement whose utility extends
indefinitely into the future. It is therefore of the first importance that a site
should be selected where the status of the harbor is least likely to be disturbed.
It is a well-known fact that the offing at San Pedro, which will be included in
the breakwater, has been shoaling- for years, and that it would only be a question
of time when the harbor would lose its usefulness, or else have to be kept open
by expensive dredging. Even Col. Mendell admitted this point to the writer.
Then why not, if necessary, expend a larger amount for a permanent harbor
at Santa Monica?"
After the making of this report, the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce
sent Gen. Charles Forman as a special delegate to Congress, accompanied by T.
E. Gibbon. They were the bearer of numerous petitions and resolutions from
various individuals and organizations of Southern California, urging an immediate
appropriation for the San Pedro harbor. But it was a " short session " and it
was stated that appropriations would not be large, and, in fact, none was made.
It was now claimed that the Southern Pacific was exercising undue influence to
prevent the appropriation for San Pedro and the slogan of the " free harbor "
was taken up. The Los Angeles Times threw itself into the fight with all its
vigor and the Chamber of Commerce took a decided stand in favor of San
Pedro. But the completion of the long wharf and the advantages thus given to
Los Angeles merchants led many to begin to look upon the possibility that, after
all, Santa Monica might not be so far off in her claims. A petition signed by
eighty-three merchants of Los Angeles representing over ten millions of busi
ness capital was drawn up and the Chamber of Commerce was asked to endorse it,
which asked for an appropriation for " the construction of a breakwater and
creation of a harbor at Santa Monica, independent of any appropriation which
may be needed to maintain in good condition what is known as the inner harbor
of San Pedro and Wilmington."
A compromise resolution, asking an appropriation for a deep-water harbor
at Santa Monica and also to dredge out and improve the inner harbor at San
Pedro, was proposed, and a vigorous protest against both these resolutions was
made. Mr. C. D. Willard, in his Free Harbor Contest, says : " The sessions
of the board were supposed to be executive, but a reporter of the Express
managed to smuggle himself into the room as an assistant clerk and remained
there through the whole session. The next day the members of the Chamber
became aware, through the publication of the debate, that the board was any
thing but unanimous on the subject of the harbor site and the discussion was
taken up in earnest all over the city. Henry T. Hazard, who was at that time
mayor of the city, led the debate on the San Pedro side, seconded by Mr. Patter
son and Gen. Forman ; and the principal Santa Monica advocates were Mr. James
B. Lankershim and Mr. L. N. Breed. On three different occasions, when the
matter was about to come to a vote, an adjournment was secured. Tn the course
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 207
of the long debate, Santa Monica gained and San Pedro lost. At first it was
the Santa Monica men that dared not come to a vote, but in the end the condi
tions were reversed and it was clear that if a decision were reached in the board,
it must be against San Pedro."
" As a result of this situation, when it became evident that, if the board took
action — and it could not well be longer postponed — the result would be a change
of front for the Chamber, a ballot of the members of the organization was called
for.
:' The weeks' campaign that followed was the most remarkable that ever
occurred in the history of Los Angeles. The Times used every means in its
power and the strongest language it could command to enforce the San Pedro
side of the contest. The Terminal railway was equally active. The Santa Fe
also took sides for San Pedro. April 7th, 1894 the members of the Chamber
of Commerce balloted, the result being 328 for San Pedro and 131 for Santa
Monica, which, with the influences at work, was a foregone conclusion.
" In June the matter was brought up in Congress and after a hearing of
several weeks, which attracted wide attention, because it was now made a fight
for a ' free harbor ' as against a harbor control led by a ' monopoly,' a motion
was passed deferring the decision to permit the members of the Committee of
Commerce to visit the two harbors and form an opinion for themselves.
" During the winter of 1894-95 the matter of the deep-water harbor was
not brought up in Congress. The Chamber of Commerce continued its efforts
in behalf of San Pedro, however, and the ' Free Harbor League ' was organized.
In February, 1896, Col. H. G. Otis, Mr. W. G. Kerckhoff, Mr. W. C. Patter
son and Mr. W. D. Woolwine, were elected a special delegation to go to Wash
ington and lay the San Pedro case before the River and Harbor Committee of
the House. Notwithstanding their able representation, the River and Harbor
bill contained, when it was made up, two items : ' San Pedro, $392,000 and
Santa Monica $3,098,000.' "
The effect of this information upon the San Pedro advocates in Washington
and .upon the public of Los Angeles, and, indeed all Southern California, was
electrifying. The Chamber of Commerce and League, of course, at once took
steps to re-affirm their position. Public mass meetings were held for each side.
The city council and the Republican convention passed resolutions for both
appropriations. Petitions for and against the proposed " double Harbor "
scheme were circulated. Santa Monica people, took an active part in shaping
the sentiment in favor of the Santa Monica appropriation and, naturally, were
jubilant at the prospect of seeing their long hoped for dream fulfilled beyond the
wildest hopes of even L. T. Fisher. The Santa Monica delegation in Wash
ington was made up of Mr. J. S. Slauson, Col. J. B. Lankershim, Mr. John W.
Mitchell and ex-Senator Cornelius Cole. On April 23rd, Robert F. Jones,
President of the Santa Monica Chamber of Commerce, received this telegram
208 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
from Mr. Mitchell. " Committee just voted Santa Monica Harbor one hundred
thousand dollars immediately available, continuing contract system, which will
permit contract for two million, eight hundred thousand to complete work.
San Pedro inner harbor now being considered. Hard fight and close decision
but think can be held in bill."
Senator White and the advocates of San Pedro bitterly opposed the passage
of this bill and finally, as a compromise, a bill was passed which carried the
full appropriation for a deep sea harbor to be located by a commission consisting
of an officer of the navy, to be named by the Secretary of the Navy ; an officer
of the Coast Survey, named by the Superintendent ; and three civil engineers to
be appointed by the president. " They are to make a close personal examination
and report to the Secretary of War, whereupon he is to let the contract."
This last " commission " was the result of one of the strongest contests ever made
over a provision for appropriation in congress. Senators White and Perkins,
Berry and Vest spoke on the one side, while Senator Frye made the speech for
the Santa Monica harbor.
In October the new board was announced; Rear Admiral John G. Walker,
from the Navy; Augustus F. Rodgers, of the coast survey; Win. H. Burr,
George S. Morrison and Richard P. Morgan, appointed by President Cleveland.
In December the members of this board arrived and after looking over the
ground, conducted a most exhaustive examination at the Chamber of Commerce
rooms in Los Angeles. This was felt to be the last chance and both sides
gathered all their evidence and put forth all their efforts. Santa Monica harbor
was ably represented by Wm. H. Hood, E. L. Corthell, A. M. Jamison, J. S.
Slauson, Cornelius Cole, John Cross, Captains Jackson, Pillsbury and Salmond.
The San Pedro case was under the management of Robert Moore and H. Haw-
good. The hearing lasted for seven days. The report was filed March ist,
1897 and was a large volume, containing many maps, charts, and much matter
not belonging strictly to the question in hand.
The decision was in favor of San Pedro, largely because of the work already
done there and the inadvisability of the government maintaining two separate
harbors. They said : " It is the judgment of this Board that the best public
policy, both in the interest of economy and for the attainment of a deep-water
harbor for commerce and refuge demands the concentration of expenditure at
one point, with the corresponding cumulative excellence of results, rather than
a dispersion and weakening of results by a divided expenditure at the two loca
tions. This conclusion gains considerable force through the fact that the selec
tion of the San Pedro site will, for the reasons stated, undoubtedly involve
materially less ultimate total expenditure than is certain to be incurred by the
inevitable construction and maintenance of the two harbors, if Port Los Angeles
were to be selected. The preponderance of physical advantages, therefore,
which leads to the selection of the San Pedro site, is in line with the best re-
HISTORY OF SAXTA 'MONICA BAY CITIES
209
quirements of the best public policy as to the matter entrusted to the decision of
this Board." This report was signed by four members of the Board. Mr.
Morgan submitted a minority report in favor of Port Los Angeles.
This decision was regarded as final and Santa Monica citizens accepted it
as such. However, it was not until April 6th, 1899, that the contract was
awarded and the actual work on the harbor began. The event was celebrated
by a " Jubilee " which had lost somewhat of spontaneity by its long delay. Since
that time work has gone on at San Pedro, but the deep-water harbor is yet in
the future.
14
FIRST COMMON COUNCIL OF THE CITY OF SANTA MONICA UNDER THE FREE
HOLDERS' CHARTER. 1906.
CHAPTER V.
EXPANSION. 1900-1908.
THE year 1900 was an epoch-making one for Santa Monica since it brought
with it many events which were far-reaching in their influence and which
were important factors in the era of unprecedented prosperity and growth
which has marked the first years of the new century.
A radical change in the history of the town was brought about by the passage
of the ordinance which made it a " no-saloon " town. Santa Monica had always
been a " wide-open " town and while its citizens were just as respectable and
law-abiding as those of any other beach town, the place had undoubtedly always
been the favorite resort of the sporting element of Los Angeles. The proximity
of the Soldier's Home had also made it the scene of the " old boy's " license,
when pension money was plenty. Every effort was made to suppress the dis
orderly element and as good order was maintained here, as a rule, as elsewhere;
yet the town had long borne the reputation of being a " tough " place.
With the opening of 1900 a determined effort was made to secure a better
order of things. One of the leaders in this attempt, was the late Federick H.
Rindge, a man of great wealth, sincere religious zeal and large philanthropy.
He devoted his time, energy and money to this fight for the good standing of
Santa Monica, which was then his home city. The campaign opened with an
all day Sunday service devoted to temperance and local option. As a result of
the meetings of this day a committee of citizens, consisting of J. F. Kiggens,
E. J. Vawter, J. H. Clark, D. J. Twichell, J. S. Knesel, M. H. Kimball, W. I.
Hull, Dr. N. H. Hamilton, C. I. D. Moore, J. O. Jennings, Dr. C. T. Wilson,
T. H. James, H. P. Wilber, D. G. Holt, Dr. Glen McWilliams and
J. F. Dunham, with F. H. Rindge, as chairman, was appointed to confer with
the Board of Trustees and secure the passage of an ordinance submitting the
question of saloons or no saloons to the people at the coming election. As a
consequence of the action of these gentlemen, the requisite ordinance was
passed.
A vigorous, well organized, educational anti-saloon crusade followed. A
series of public meetings was held on both the North and the South sides at
which such speakers as Bishop Montgomery, Dr. Chapman, Dr. Hugh Walker,
J. S. Slauson, F. H. Rindge, the pastors of the city churches, particularly Dr.
Glen McWilliams of the Christian church and Dr. Wilson of the Methodist
church ; and such business men as Roy Jones, W. S. and E. J. Vawter, D. G.
212 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Holt, and others took part. The churches of all sects ; the anti-saloon forces of
the county; the Womens Christian Temperance Union, the Good Templars, and
a large number of the property owners and business men of the town, worked
together heartily to secure the passage of the " no-saloon " ordinance. The
Santa Monica Outlook took a vigorous share in the effort and many who looked
at the proposition simply from a business standpoint ranged themselves on the
anti-saloon side.
Naturally the saloon element, and a good many citizens who honestly be
lieved that the closing of the saloons would result in a financial loss to the town,
put up a strong fight. Money was spent freely on both sides and the feeling
was very strong; F. H. Rindge, in a public meeting promised to indemnify the
town for the loss sustained by refusing licenses to saloons, and after the elec
tion, April gth, which resulted in a vote of 305 to 218, a majority of 87 votes
for " no license," he presented his check for $2,500 to the Board of Trustees.
The trustees chosen at the election, J. C. Morgan, C. H. Sammis and T. H.
Dudley had pledged themselves prior to election to carry out the expressed
wishes of the citizens. It had been agreed that three restaurant licenses, per-
miting the sale of liquors with bona fide meals, costing 25 cents, exclusive of
liquors ; and one wholesale liquor license, under certain restrictions, should be
granted. The ordinance passed by the new board was not exactly what the
anti-saloon people had expected, as it permitted the sale of liquors at all hours
and allowed the wholesale house to sell in original packages at its place of busi
ness, instead of simply delivering orders.
It was to be expected that there would be violations of the regulations under
this ordinance, which was certainly a great step in advance, although not all
that had been hoped for by the movers in the " no license " fight. On August
6th, E. Gamberi, of the Pacific Gardens was arrested for selling liquors without
meals and was convicted and fined $175.00, while his license was revoked.
Rudolph Hopf was also arrested for violation of the ordinance, but prior to
his trial he became insolvent and was acquitted. This marked the downfall of
the old firm of Eckert and Hopf, which had been in business in Santa Monica
since the seventies.
In 1901 the Board of Trustees modified the restaurant license so that it
merely required " something to eat," with the liquor. This, of course, led to the
service of the timeworn cracker and. it is claimed, that the cracker box alone
was considered sufficient in many cases. In 1902 the wholesale license was
raised to $1,200 and in 1903 the wholesale license was raised to $3,000. this
amount having been offered by Alexander Gunn.
In the spring of 1903 the temperance people were so aroused by the changes
made, which practically restored saloons to the town, that they made a strong
campaign before the annual election to secure candidates for trustees who would
support the law and take steps to earn- out the provisions of the original ordin-
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 213
ance — which had been adopted to carry out the wish of the voters. Dr. Chap
man again took a vigorous, and as many thought, a not very wise, part in the
campaign, working for the election of men who had pledged themselves to vote
against issuing new licenses and removals of restrictions. After the city election,
another special election to again submit the question of prohibition, by adopting
what was known as the Long Beach ordinance, was called for. A brief cam
paign was made by Dr. Chapman and the question was submitted on June loth,
resulting in a vote of 831 ; 287 for, 544 against. This result, so different from
the previous one when this question was voted upon, was brought about by many
causes ; chiefly the dissension of the temperance forces and the bitterness and,
in the eyes of many, the unfairness of the methods adopted by the prohibition
workers. As a consequence of this result, the Board of Trustees passed an
ordinance, granting restaurant licenses, with no restriction as to meals ; buffet
licenses, which were practically saloon licenses ; and the wholesale license.
While there are no open saloons in Santa Monica, and the business is much
restricted as compared with the old days when there were twelve or fourteen
saloons running " wide open," there is ample opportunity for those who wish
it to procure liquor and the town derives a considerable income from its various
liquor licenses.
Another important question which came up for discussion and action this
year was that of the separation of the portion of the town lying south of Rail
road street from the "North side," or, as the Outlook puts it, the "legal separa
tion of Miss South Side from Mr. North Side, on the ground of failure to pro
vide." The citizens of the southern end of town felt that they had not received
due consideration from the town trustees and that they had no representative on
the board. There had long been a rivalry in growth, street improvements and
attractions. A committee consisting of Col. A. B. Hotchkiss, a long-time resi
dent of the South Side, Joseph Bontty and Captain Malim, were active in urging
this action, stating that the new town would remain a town, governed by the
Board of Supervisors, and would save the expenses of a city government while
improving her own streets and providing her own water, and light supply. The
active discussion of plans for building a city hall had a bearing on the question,
no doubt, and many other matters were connected with it. A petition with suffi
cient signatures was presented and the question was submitted to a vote of the
people at the election of November I3th. A vigorous campaign was made against
the division by the North Side and many citizens of the South Side also, and
the election showed a very decided majority, the vote being 400 to 59, against
the legal partition of the town.
One of the movers in this attempt at disruption, Captain George D. Malim,
frankly announced in the Outlook, after stating that others who had promised
aid had deserted the cause, " I have been at a loss of both time and money,
fought alone and single-handed against nearly the whole town and got licked,
r,K<>. H. HUTTOX.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 215
but have one great satisfaction, that is, that I believe I have stirred people up to
argue questions, consider propositions, and stand up for their rights, which they
would not have done had it not been for the work done by myself." It was
generally agreed that the discussion of the question had brought about a better
feeling between the two factions and would result in a clearer understanding of
the common interests of the whole city.
Another topic which engaged a good deal of attention and gave rise to a
great variety of opinions, was that of providing a suitable city hall. It was
generally believed, also, that the town could not prosper without having some
sort of public auditorium for large meetings. It was proposed to combine a city
hall and auditorium building. This met with opposition and an effort was made
to secure an auditorium as a private business venture. Bonds for the city hall
were proposed ; but at last it became evident that the city affairs could be
handled more effectively under a new form of government and the subject of
adopting a city charter and becoming a city of the fifth class was taken up.
Public meetings to discuss the advisability of this step and the results following
it were held and a committee consisting of Frederick H. Rindge, George H.
Hutton, A. W. McPherson, W. S. Vawter and Fred H. Taft was appointed to
formulate plans for re-organization. It was agreed that the town should be
divided into five wards, as equally proportioned as to voters as possible, each to
extend from the ocean back to the east line of the town and the committee also
stood pledged to a general city convention to nominate officers, irrespective of
party lines. But when the matter came to the test of the polls, January i6th,
1901, it was found that the interest was small compared with its importance,
353 votes being cast, of which 171 were for and 178 against, the re-organization
plan being lost by seven votes.
Among the improvements of the year was the putting on of the mail car
on the electric line which made three trips a day. taking in Colegrove, Sherman,
Sawtelle and Soldiers' Home, Santa Monica and Ocean Park and which also
carried express matter. The Hollywood line was opened for service in February
thus giving Santa Monica three routes to Los Angeles and still further increas
ing her transportation facilities. The Southern Pacific and Santa Fe roads, in
a desperate attempt to recover their traffic, issued a ten trip ticket for $1.50, good
for one month. B"t the electric line met this with a ten ride ticket, good until
used, and transferable, for $2.00. The railroads gained little but the people
who traveled between the city and the beach were decided gainers. The United
Electric, Gas and Power Company was incorporated this year and took over
the Santa Monica Electric Light and Power plant, the directors being the same,
F. H. Rindge, Alfred Steadman, H. V. Carter, G. I. Cochran and J. J. Davis.
This company also secured control of the light and gas company of Redondo,
Long Beach, San Pedro, and other towns.
" Sunset " beach, lying north of the North Beach Bath House, was improved
216 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
with walk, gas, electric light and sewer service and divided into lots to be leased
to tenants for five and ten years. The owners were R. C. Gillis and E. P. Clark
and after these improvements were carried out a number of commodious and
attractive cottages was built on the tract.
The death of " Bob " Eckert, April 27th, 1900, removed one of the best
known characters of Santa Monica, or indeed, of Southern California. Mr.
Eckert was born in the Fatherland. He came to Los Angeles in 1872 and soon
acquired a reputation there as a caterer, a politicion and a teacher of gymnastics
in the Turn Verein. His connection with the Turners made him known among
the Germans of Southern California, and his genial, kindly nature won him
many lasting friendships, not only among his own people, but with all with
whom he came in contact. He opened a restaurant in Santa Monica in the
later seventies and his fish dinners soon gained renown. For many years a feed
at Eckert and Hapf's Pavilion was the best treat one good fellow could offer
another. He catered to many distinguished guests and for many notable ban
quets, and was acknowledged as a past master in the art of serving a .dinner.
With his death and the canceling of saloon licenses, the Eckert and Hopf
Pavilion which had been known from Alaska to Mexico, was closed.
1901.
The more progressive citizens of Santa Monica were not satisfied to allow
the matter of re-organizing the city government to drop. They felt that the
best interests of the city demanded that the town be divided into wards which
would allow each district to select its own representative in the council. The
new charter would also permit the organization of a board of education which
could exercise powers not vested in the trustees of a district. A new petition
for an election was prepared and presented to the Board of Trustees February
4th, with a guarantee from the signers that the expenses of the election would
be met by private subscription. The trustees, after due deliberation and ex
amination into the legal aspects of the case, refused to grant the petition. The
movers for a new charter were not discouraged, however. They continued the
agitation and in April organized a Good Government League, to look to muni
cipal matters, with F. H. Rindge, president; N. H. Hamilton, ist vice-president;
W. S. Vawter, 2nd vice-president; Fred H. Taft, 3d vice-president; C. I. D.
Moore, secretary and J. C. Steele, treasurer. Mr. Rindge, who despite his many
interests spared neither time nor energy in forwarding any movement for the
public good, took an active part in this organization, which kept a sharp eye?
upon the restaurant liquor licenses, that had been granted, as well as carrying
on an educational campaign among the citizens on the subject of public improve
ments. A petition asking for a re-submission of the question of saloons or no
saloons was received by the trustees in March ; but was not acted upon and
although, there was a good deal of discussion of the subject, the trustees seemed
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
217
to feel that the restaurant license permitting the sale of liquor with meals — which
had rapidly degenerated to empty cracker boxes, was the most satisfactory
arrangement to be made.
The matter of voting bonds for a city hall continued to be discussed. There
was also great need of a new bridge on Ocean Avenue in place of Bridge No. i,
as it was known. This had become imperative as this street was the main
thoroughfare between the North and South ends of town. Storm drains were
also greatly needed, and after one or two mass meetings, in which matters were
fullv discussed and it was shown that the large tax payers of the city were all
ritiU
mT
CITY HALL, SANTA MONICA.
in favor of these improvements, an election was called for November igth to
vote on the question of issuing bonds in the sum of $25,000 for Bridge No. I ;
$10,000 for Bridge No. 2 ; $29,000 for storm drains, and $35,000 for City Hall
and Jail. At this election the bonds for town hall and bridge No. i were carried,
the others defeated.
The Board of Trustees at once called for bids for a site for the public
building and was flooded with offers. They spent some very strenuous hours
before finally determining on the lots at the corner of Oregon and Fourth. The
South Side felt that since it must pay taxes for this improvement, it should at
least be as near them as possible. The question of town division was still a
live one. The marvelous growth made during the year 1901 at Ocean Park
was putting that division of Santa Monica in the front rank in importance and
the old rivalry between the two sections was enhanced in many minds by the
N. H. HAMILTON, M. D.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 219
growing wealth and many impovements of the " sand hills." The South Side
had voted almost solidly against all the improvements, because of the desire to
have its own town organization.
A strong effort was made to secure the city hall for the corner of Third and
Utah street, where a site was offered by Roy Jones for $12,000. Tht business
men of the place generally endorsed this site and offered to guarantee that it
should cost the city but $7,000. The matter was hotly contested by the citizens
and the trustees seemed to be hopelessly divided in opinion — or interests. In
February 1902 Roy Jones withdrew his offer of sites and thus removed the cor
ner at Third and Utah from consideration. Still the board could come to no
decision and a straw vote was called for to decide what site would best please
the voters. Condemnation proceedings to secure the property at Third and
Utah were talked" of and the fight waxed hotter than ever. A majority of 68
out of 441 votes cast was for Lots V. W. and X., of Block 196, being the south
east corner of Third and Utah, at the price of $6,500. At the next meeting of
the Board of Trustees, it was reported that the chosen site could not be secured
at any price, except by condemnation proceedings, which meant long and expen
sive litigation, therefore the Board, by a vote of three to two, selected the site
at Fourth and Oregon, offered by J. C. Crosier for $4,800. Although there was
much dissatisfaction over the result, it was final and steps were at once taken to
proceed with the building, the bonds having already been sold to the Oakland
Bank of Savings at a premium of $3,000.
Among the more important improvements of the year on the North Side
was the building of the long looked for Auditorium, in connection with the
North Beach Bath house. The cost was about $7,000 and it gave a large room
for public meetings. It was opened by an entertainment given by the newly
organized Y. M. C. A. and was then taken possession of by a Vaudeville troop
which made a brilliant failure and soon vanished. The people of Santa Monica
seem always to have been able to provide their own entertainments and an out
side attraction must be very unusual indeed to draw any large number of Santa
Monicans from their own homes and amusements.
The Academy of the Holy Names, established by the '' Sisters of the Holy
Names of Jesus and Mary," was completed and dedicated February 22nd. It
was a handsome two and a half story building, beautifully finished and furnished
and was dedicated with elaborate ceremonies, including a public parade and
testimonials from the city officials and citizens generally of Santa Monica.
At South Santa Monica, or Ocean Park, the Los Angeles Times estimates
that the improvements for the year amounted to $232,555, including the new
power house of the electric line, costing $25,000; the Holborow Hotel. $10,000,
the Casino, $10,000, waterworks and other improvements of Kinney & Dudley,
$18,500 and 207 other building.
Among the notable events of this year was the visit of President McKinley
220 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
to the Soldier's Home, at which time the citizens of Santa Monica aided in the
reception which was there given him. And on September 2Oth, 1901 the people
of this city held Memorial services in honor of the president whom they had so
warmly welcomed. All business was suspended and the mourning was general.
One of the incidents of this occasion was the services of the newly formed
Spanish Society, which had arranged for an elaborate celebration on September
1 6th, the Mexican Fourth of July, but changed their program to a Memorial
service, after which they burned the murderer in effigy.
1902.
The history of 1902 was largely municipal. As has been seen, the difficult
task of settling on a site for the city hall was carried over into this year. But
before it was decided the still more important matter of re-organization came
up. The new election was called for January 28th. In the meantime, the Board
of Trustees ordered a census of the town to be taken. The call for re-organiza
tion of the city had been based upon the United States census of 1890, which
gave Santa Monica a population of 3057. Cities must have a population of
3,000, at least, in order to be raised to the rank of fifth class. Opponents of the
change had insisted that the town did not now have the requisite three thousand
and the census of the Board resulted in but 2,717 names. The promoters of the
movement, however, asserted that this census did not count, as by law, the
population would be taken from the United States census. At the same time
the Good Government League claimed that the census taken by the Board was
defective and set men to work to re-take the census. After a long and very
thorough canvas, in which, we are certain every nose was counted, the result
was reported as 3,260.
The election resulted in a decided victory for the Good Government League
and the progressive citizens generally, the vote standing 231 for and 118 against,
giving a majority of 118 as against the majority of seven the other way at the
previous election. But votes do not settle the question voted upon in Santa
Monica. At the next regular meeting of the Board of Trustees when it was
in order to officially canvas the vote, that long suffering body was served with
a writ of injunction, sworn to by H. X. Goetz, enjoining them1 from canvassing
the votes and declaring the election to have been illegal. When the Board had
recovered from the shock of this attack, they engaged counsel to defend them in
this case and in another action, brought by Attorney Fred H. Taft, demanding
that the city fathers count those votes, or show cause why. The courts decided
- that the election was all right and on February loth, the last act in this long
drawn-out drama took place, and the returns of the election were duly declared
although the new city government could not, by the terms of the law, go into
effect until the year 1903.
The voters of Santa Monica certainly had ample opportunity to exercise
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 221
their free and sovereign right during the years of 1901-2. Beside the regular
state election in November, 1901 and the municipal election the next spring, five
special elections gave them a chance to express their opinions. In view of the
important matters under the control of the Board this year, a good deal of
interest was taken in the annual town election. Mr. W. S. Vawter was nominated
as the representative of the Ocean Park district by an enthusiastic public meet
ing. There were numerous other candidates for the trusteeship and for all the
other city offices. The question of a special tax for the repair of the outfall
sewer and the wharf at Pier Avenue was also submitted and voted on favorably.
Messrs. Vawter and J. C. Steele were elected trustees, J. C. Hemingway, clerk ;
E. W. Boehme, treasurer and M. K. Barretto, marshal. In the re-organization
of the board, T. H. Dudley was elected president and F. H. Taft was chosen as
attorney. One of the first acts of the new board was to raise the wholesale
liquor license to $1,200 per year.
During the summer of 1902 especial attention was called to the safety of
Santa Monica Beach as compared with other beaches. It was shown that very
few accidents, due to undertow, had ever occurred on this beach and that every
precaution to prevent accidents was taken, a guard being maintained on thc-
beach at all times, life boats being at hand in case of need. The Los Angeles
Times stated : " It is safe to say that since this little city was laid out, nearly
a million people have bathed in the surf there ; and while there have been a
number of fatalities due to suicide, heart failure, and apoplexy or cramp, there,
has not been one authenticated instance of any person being overcome by a
treacherous current or tide, or any person having been lost who was bathing
from any public bath house."
Among the conventions entertained this year were the Woman's Auxiliary
of the Episcopal church and also the Summer Institute of Sunday Schools of
the Episcopal diocese ; the annual convention of Christian churches of Southern
California, lasted eleven days and brought a large number of visitors to attend
its sessions. In October, the grand Lodge of the Good Templars, a state or
ganization, held its annual session here.
The " short line " of the Los Angeles-Pacific was opened in August, thus
giving a new and considerably shorter route to Los Angeles. An important land
deal of the year was the sale by the Pacific Land Company to the Erkenbrecher
syndicate, of a tract of 390 acres of land, lying just east of the then town limits
and including 38 acres within the town limits. A portion of this was divided
into town lots and the rest was made into five and ten acre tracts. Another
very decided improvement was* the paving of Oregon and Utah streets which
had long been discussed but, as usual, with a variety of opinions. The Columbia
building near the corner of Third and Oregon was built by Bishop Montgomery
on ground adjoining the Catholic church. This was a three story brick with
J. C. HEMINGWAY.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 223
two large storerooms on the ground floor and a pleasant hall for public purposes
upon the second floor.
Another matter which the city fathers were called upon to meet this year
was the question of allowing the Santa Fe road to abandon its line from Ingle-
wood into Santa Monica. The road had petitioned the State Railroad commis
sion to be allowed to do so, on the ground that it was operating the line at a
loss. There was considerable opposition to permitting this action on the part
of the donors of the right of way, and at the same time a petition from many
other citizens of Santa Monica prayed that the abandonment be allowed. It
was generally believed that this would result in a competing electric line coming
into Santa Monica, and rumors that the Traction Company were looking this
way were frequent during the summer. In August Abbot Kinney made applica
tion for a franchise for a steam or electric line through the town to be operated
by the Redondo and Santa Monica Beach line, of which he was the chief in-
corporator. After some investigation this franchise was refused. In July it
was announced that the right of way had been secured for a line direct from the
city to the Ocean Park district, through La Ballona and Palms. The promoters
were a company of whom Frederick H. Rindge was the chief.
In September the Traction Company made an offer of $3,500 for a franchise
in Santa Monica. The Board of Trustees, being hard up for cash as usual,
were disposed to look favorably upon this proposition ; but it was recalled that
Mr. Hook had offered $5,000 for a similar privilege in Long Beach and it was
also pointed out by interested citizens that, according to law, any franchise must
be sold to the highest bidder. Lawyers differed as to this point and the dis
cussion waxed warm. A franchise was drawn up, granting the company all
that was asked, for a consideration of $2500 and an electric current sufficient
to supply 12 arc lights of 2000 candle power. While the discussion was going
on, Captain John Cross, of the Terminal road appeared and offered $5,000 for
a franchise ; but the Board of Trustees passed the Hook franchise without con -
sidering this offer and despite strong opposition on the part of many citizens.
A day or two later John C. Morgan, one of the trustees, and a man who
was always ready to fight for his convictions, brought suit against the Board of
Trustees to restrain them from making the proposed " Hook " franchise a law.
Meanwhile the first payment was made on the franchise and the Traction road
began making preparations for entering Santa Monica. The Los Angeles-
Pacific also began to move, removing the poles which had long been a bone of
contention, on Oregon street ; double tracking and otherwise improving their
service — in anticipation of competition. In February, 1903, Col. A. B. Hotch-
kiss took steps to test the validity of the Hook franchise, since it was granted
without competitive bids. When it appeared that the Traction Company had
secured their right of way through Santa Monica and Ocean Park, the Los
Angeles-Pacific railway, alarmed for its supremacy, also began suits to contest
224 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
the right of way, and in retaliation, the Los Angeles, Ocean Park and Santa
Monica Company, which had been incorporated to handle the Santa Monica end
of the Traction Company, began suit to condemn certain tracts in Ocean Park,
needed for the Traction right of way. The officers of this company were W. S.
Hook, Abbot Kinney, T. J. Hook, C. A. Sumner and E. E. Milliken, and it was
generally known as " Abbot Kinney's Company."
The Hook franchise was sustained by the attorney-general and the contest
between the two trolley line companies became a bitter one. The annual election
of city officials was approaching and the attitude of the trustees toward the
railroad question became the vital question. The Herald announces : "The
railroad election battle is on and that it promises to be hotly contested is evi
denced by the fact that each of the rival companies has established boarding
camps within the city limits and is registering every available man in their em
ploy. Three registrars have been working for the last thirty days and on March
4th the city registration shows an advance of 343 votes over the registration
of last November. Since March 4th fifty additional names have been added
and before the registration closes it is conservatively estimated that over 400
increase will be shown."
The campaign that followed was one of the most strenuous ever known
in Santa Monica. George D. Snyder, H. X. Goetz, A. F. Johnstone and J. C.
Morgan were candidates for the trusteeship, and were pledged " not to put any
impediments in the way of the Traction Company's building and operating a
line in Santa Monica, according to the terms of the franchise recently granted
them." W. S. Yawter, T. H. Dudley and J. C. Steele were candidates for re
election. The saloon question was again involved and much type was used
by the press and much talk was poured out on the streets and in public meetings
over the situation. Messrs. Dudley, Vawter, Goetz, Johnstone and Steele were
elected, and as at least three of them were pledged to the anti-saloon party,
there was rejoicing in the temperance ranks. It soon developed that the railroad
situation had already been taken out of the hands of the city officials, by the
sale of the Traction road and its interests to Clark and Harriman, who having
no use for a competing line, were not expected to push the road to Santa Monica.
Abbot Kinney, however, still retained the franchises granted to the Ocean Park,
Santa Monica and Los Angeles road and made an attempt, which was promptly
put a stop to by the city trustees, to occupy them. But in 1904 he sold his rail
road interests to the Los Angeles Pacific road, thus putting an end to the hope,
still maintained by Santa Monica, of a competing line.
1903.
The year 1903 was marked by an unprecedented growth. With the new
city government and the occupation of the beautiful new city building, came
an expansion in every direction that approached dangerously near to the fated
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
225
word " boom." The new city hall, a substantial structure whose simple lines
and graceful curves are dignified and beautiful, was complete in its fitness and
space for the needs of the city .iffairs and was regarded by all — those who had
opposed the bonds, the plans and the location, as well as those who had worked
hard to settle all difficulties and secure the building — with pride. On the evening
of its dedication, March igth, 1903, the people of Santa Monica and many
visitors from Los Angeles inspected the building with approval and listened to
the exercises with pleasure. A program was rendered and Mr. W. I. Hull
gave a resume of the history of the
building, in which he humorously re
called the various agitations which had
led up to this happy finale. He closed
by hoping that " those who take pos
session of it next month will keep it
clean — clean inside and out. Let
every record made here be as white
as the paper on which it is written.
Let those who are elected to office
fulfill their duty as a public trust and
not as a private snap. Municipal
government is the weak spot in our
American system. Selfish and cor
porate interests seek to control elec
tions that they may enrich themselves
at the expense of the people. If we
are careful that such conditions do not
occur in Santa Monica, we shall the
more quickly realize the grand destiny
H. x. GOETZ tnat awa'ts us — the Queen Seaside
City of Southern California." Beside
the municipal offices, the public library was provided with pleasant quarters,
which were greatly appreciated by the public. The city hall was built by
H. X. Goetz, the contractor, and with its site, cost about $38,000.
The city government under the new form required an election of new city
officials throughout. The railroad and saloon questions had already become
important factors in this municipal election. The many affairs of importance
which the new board of trustees would be required to handle made their selection
more than ever of the deepest importance to the town. Yet it must be feared
that a large number of the voters were swayed by self-interest and personal
feeling, rather than by the " greatest good to the greatest number." The ticket
chosen was as follows : Trustees, T. H. Dudley, H. X. Goetz, A. F. Johnston,
J. C. Steele and \V. S. Vawter; school board, W. E. Devore, J. H. Hassinger,
15
226 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Dr. J. S. Hunt, J. H. Jackson and S. F. Carpenter; clerk, J. C. Hemingway,
re-elected ; assessor, C. S. Dales ; treasurer, Frank W. Vogel ; recorder, A. M.
Guidinger ; marshal, M. K. Barretto, who had served in the same office since
1898; for city attorney, there was a sharp contest between F. H. Taft, the incum
bent, and Benjamin S. Hunter, who it was claimed was a non-resident of the
city. Mr. Taft was elected, but the position was contested in the courts by
Mr. Hunter, without avail.
With the organization of the new board of trustees on April 2Oth, the
history of Santa Monica as a city of the fifth class began. T. 'H. Dudley was
chosen president of the board ; the salaries to be paid city officials were, after
some discussion, fixed : City clerk, $1020.00 per annum ; attorney, $600.00 ;
assessor, $520.00; marshal, $1200.00; treasurer, $400.00: recorder, $300.00; chief
of fire department, $120.00 per annum.
The disastrous anti-saloon campaign which followed the inauguration of
the new government has already been described. In view of the talk of incor
porating the section south of Santa Monica into a town, a petition was prepared
by some of the property owners in the strip of territory between Marine avenue,
the southern line of the city limits, and Rose avenue, asking that this territory
be annexed to the city. At the same time a largely signed petition from citizens
of Santa Monica making the same request was presented. Acting upon these
a special election was called for December I4th, which resulted in a vote of 30
in the proposed territory — 19 against annexation. This result had been antici
pated as a strong fight had been made by the " incorporationists " against the
measure.
1904.
The rapid growth of the town had made the old water system entirely
inadequate to the demands upon it, particularly in the case of fire, and for a
year or two there had been more or less talk of municipal ownership of the
plant. The dissatisfaction with the conditions was so general that February
5th a mass meeting was called to discuss the situation and the possibilities of
the city acquiring a water system of its own. At this meeting a communication
from Mr. Rindge, president of the Artesian Water Company, then supplying the
city water, was read, in which he stated that his company would guarantee the
city an adequate supply and would at once enlarge their facilities for supplying
water. After considerable discussion it was decided to suspend further action
by the citizens until it was seen whether the water company fulfilled its promises.
During the next two years the Artesian Company laid a i6-inch main down
Nevada street and distributed a large amount of new pipe, replacing the old
system and extending it to new districts. Nevertheless, it was still felt that
the water supply was not equal to the demands of the rapidly growing city and
the board of trade appointed a committee, who after a thorough examination
into the matter, reported favorably upon the proposition to bond the city for a
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 227
sum sufficient to secure its own water system. The city engineer prepared a
careful estimate of the cost and reported that he thought a complete plant could
be provided for $240,250. At the request of the requisite number of voters,
the council ordered an election to vote upon the proposition of bonding the
city for $250,000. But many citizens felt that this was moving too rapidly,
as the city was already heavily bonded and was now considering the adoption
of a new charter, consequently the date of this election, January i6th, 1906, was
recalled and the matter permitted to drop for the time being. The feeling is
still strong that Santa Monica must soon have a more adequate supply of water,
owned by the municipality ; but the building of school houses and the disposition
of sewage must first be completed.
After the incorporation of the town of Ocean Park, including the settled
territory south of the Santa Monica city limits, there was still much talk of
town division. Many of the people residing in the section which had first been
known as " Ocean Park ", felt that they had built up that portion of the " sand
hills " into a prosperous business and residence district with very little aid from
the " old town " of Santa Monica. The rapid growth of the last two or three
years had brought in a new element who knew little of the past history of the
town and did not realize that the question of town division had already been
thoroughly canvassed and, it was hoped, settled by the decisive vote of Novem
ber I3th, 1901. Ocean Park had already secured a portion of the Santa Monica
school district and it was now proposed to divide the city at Front street. It
was the common belief that this section, if cut off from Santa Monica, would
join the new Ocean Park municipality, although there were those who talked
of a third corporation which should go it alone. Some of the older residents
of the territory, who had already paid taxes for street improvements, schools,
city hall, and sewers in Santa Monica, did not care to repeat the payments for
the same purposes in the new town. The new corporation of Ocean Park was
already voting bonds with a free hand ; there were dissensions among business
interests — the causes were various but the result was — death to the division
proposition. The petition was circulated but was never presented and the election
did not take place. The Outlook of January 2ist, 1905, pays its tribute to the
division question thus :
" Poor little thing dead. The last sad rites performed over fatherless and
motherless babe. There is crepe on the door of a suite of upstairs rooms on
Pier avenue. The fight to divide Santa Monica is ended. The ' executive com
mittee ' for the division of Santa Monica has passed in its checks. The last
meeting of this august body was held on Wednesday, when it was decided that
the idea of dividing this city was a forlorn hope and the committee adjourned
' sine die.' While the meeting was secret, it is learned that the executive com
mittee positively decided to abandon the project."
And from this date :\ ivore solid fruth in " greater Sint'i Monica " has
228 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
grown up in both sections of the town and it is only a matter of a few years
before the memory of " north " and " south " feuds will have faded and Santa
Monica will present an undivided front to the world.
This year was marked by the breaking up of large tracts and the opening
to settlement of many fine pieces of land hitherto unoccupied. In April it was
announced that the Jones and Baker lands, including the San Vicente rancho,
Boca y Santa Monica and Santa Monica rancho, over 30,000 acres in all. had
been transferred to a consolidated company formed of the Artesian Water Com
pany, the Santa Monica and Sawtelle Water Companies, Frederick II. Rindge,
Gen. M. H. Sherman, E. P. Clark, G. I. Cochran, R. C. Gillis and others. The
purpose of the new water company was to supply water to the Ballona country,
between Western avenue in Los Angeles and the sea coast, and to supply domestic
water to Santa Monica and the entire coast southward to Playa del Rev. It
was stated that the lands coming into possession of the new company would be
subdivided and put upon the market at once and soon afterward a sale of 1000
acres of the San Vicente rancho was made to R. C. Gillis. This tract extended
from Fourteenth street to Sawtelle between Oregon avenue and the Southern
Pacific right of way, and was at once cut up into lots of from two to forty acres
and offered for sale. The Santa Monica Land and Water Company also sub
divided 450 acres between the Soldiers' Home lands and Twenty-sixth street.
A number of other tracts and additions were put on the market this year
also, among them the Irwin Heights tract east of the city, which was improved
by Irwin and Towner ; the Artesian tract continued to attract buyers and the
Oregon avenue tract between Thirteenth and Sixteenth streets was opened,
streets paved and many lots sold and houses built during the year. Six new
houses, costing about $15,000, were put up in Washington Place. This portion
of the town, east of Tenth street and north of Oregon, became, indeed, a new
city within a very short period. The land east and north of the city limits had
also become desirable residence property and many homes had been established
on " villa " lots, or small ranches. The talk of annexation of this district grew
and was brought to a head finally by the attempt on the part of Ocean Park to
secure a division of the town of Santa Monica at Front street, and by the neces
sity of supplying school accommodations for the many new residents.
It was estimated that during the year from April, 1904, to April. 1905, two
hundred building permits were issued for the city of Santa Monica, the expendi
ture reaching $300,000. During the same period, four miles of streets were
graded and several miles oiled ; 260,000 square feet of cement walk were laid,
40,000 lineal feet of concrete curbing were put in, 30,000 square feet of cross
walks, 12,000 feet of sewer pipe laid, 22,000 feet of gutter and 40,000 square
feet of paving put down. This was done by the city and it is probable that
the work done by private contract in the various new subdivisions almost equaled
this record.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 229
1905.
This is the banner year in the existence of the Santa Monica bay cities.
It was a year of wonderful growth and unprecedented development in every
direction. The " old " town of Santa Monica passed forever from the ranks
of '' country " towns and became a city in fact as well as in form during this
year. The southern part of the town, commonly known as " Ocean Park ",
which was already an important business center as well as a popular summer
resort, with the completion of the bath house and the Decatur Hotel, the building
of the Masonic block and many other business blocks on Pier avenue, Marine
street and the ocean front began to put on a metropolitan aspect ; while the
creation of Venice — the " Dream City " of Abbot Kinney's fancy, made the new
town of Ocean Park the center of attraction for the entire state.
Another remarkable feature was the continued opening up of subdivisions
which found rapid sale as suburban homes. Much of the San Vicente and
Ballona ranches which had been barley fields, or, later, bean patches, was now
platted, graded and improved to be sold as lots or in small tracts. Westgate
and Westgate Acres, Irwin Heights, Towner Terrace, the Artesian tract, Serra
Vista, Palisades, Brentwood Park and Green Acres, to the north and east of
Santa Monica ; Ocean Park Heights, East Ocean Park, Venice Park tract, Vine-
land, Clarkdale and many other subdivisions between Ocean Park and Los
Angeles were put on the market. Most of these subdivisions were on or near
the line of the trolley cars. In the case of Westgate, the promotors, in con
junction with the Los Angeles and Pacific, built a branch line from Sawtelle
through the tract and along the edge of Santa Monica canon and Ocean avenue
to connect with the Montana-avenue branch, thus giving the public the most
picturesque trolley ride to be found in Los Angeles county. This line was com
pleted and opened for use August gth, 1906. This company also constructed
San Vicente boulevard from the Soldiers' Home to the city limits of Santa
Monica, a distance of several miles, one of the finest stretches of roadway in
the country.
All of these tracts along the base of the Santa Monica sierras command
magnificent views of ocean, mountains and valleys. They are improved with
graded and oiled streets, cement walks, parks, trees, shrubbery and offer every
modern conveniences — water, electricity, car service, as well as the unequaled
location, the air, the space, the quiet and seclusion of country life. Building
restrictions were placed upon all these tracts so that only desirable homes might
be built and the rapidity with which magnificent country places, as well as
artistic bungalow and cottage homes have sprung up proves that there was a
demand for just such a residence section. The amount of money spent in im
proving these lands and putting them on the market would probably reach a
half-million dollars and the expenditure in buildings and improvements by
purchasers would perhaps reach the same figure.
R. R. TANNER.
• HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 231
In the spring of 1905 it was announced that Frederick H. Rindge would
build a wagon road through the Malibu ranch and there was a general feeling
of satisfaction that at last communication north along the coast would be opened
up. But it soon developed that this wagon road was not for the public, and
rumors that it was to be a railroad or a trolley line were rife before the death
of Mr. Rindge in August. In October the Outlook rejoices greatly in the fact
that the " Hueneme, Malibu & Port Los Angeles " electric line will be a great
acquisition to Santa Monica. Mr. H. W. Lemcke of Santa Monica was ap
pointed general manager, and for some months the papers were kept busy as
serting and denying facts about this new road which was — and remains — an
enigma to the public. The new passenger depot of the Los Angeles-Pacific
located in Linda Vista park was a substantial improvement which was greatly
appreciated. Many improvements in the electric line service were made during
the year, not the least of which was the completion of the Playa del Rey-Redondo
line and the establishment of a five-cent fare between Santa Monica and Playa
del Rev.
One of the most important real estate transactions of the year was the
formation of a syndicate by F. E. Bundy which was made up largely of Ocean
Park capitalists, including E. S. Tomblin, R. W. Armstrong, A. E. Robinson,
H. L. Miller & Co., Robert F. Jones, A. W. McPherson, E. A. Wilson, Dana
Burks, J. W. Tomblin, Smith Realty Co., I. E. Warfield & Co., and F. E. TBuncly.
This later took the name of the " United Land & Water Company " and marked
a community of interests between the two factions of the Santa Monica bay
region. This company purchased a tract of land south of the Oregon-avenue
line between Twenty-sixth street and Sawtelle. They planned to make this a
model village site and spent a large sum in improvements. The tract was put
on the market as the " Serra Vista " and many sales were made. It became
a part of the city when the new territory was taken in and is a valuable addition
to the city's wealth. The Irwin Heights tract continued to settle up and many
improvements were made in this vicinity. A large sum was expended by the
Irwin Heights Company in developing water and an excellent system was pro
vided for this district.
Another important real estate move was the opening up of the original
Palisades tract, lying between Ocean avenue and Seventh street, north of Mon
tana avenue. This was improved by a company composed of H. D. Lombard.
R. A. Rowan, W. S. Vawter, T. H. Dudley, W. T. Gillis and H. W. Keller.
They spent $100,000 in improvements, grading and oiling streets, sewering,
cement sidewalks and in planting trees, etc. Linda Vista park was also im
proved in front of this addition. Later the balance of the land lying between
this tract and the Santa Monica canon and extending north to Seventh street
was improved at a very large expense, thus placing this, the most desirable
beach property on Santa Monica bay, on the market. The large amount of
money expended by private parties in public improvements in the Palisades,
232
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
as well as the high order of buildings and improvements made by purchasers,
added largely to the aggregate expenditures for the year. The Towner Terrace
tract lying between Eighth and Fourteenth streets, Front and Colorado, was
another addition within the new city limits which added to the population and
wealth of the place.
The building of the White Star pier, now known as Bristol pier, was com
pleted in July and its attractions were added to those of the other points of
interest on the beach. A good band was installed here and a number of " amuse
ments " provided, but there were now so many rival attractions that it was not
a paying investment during its first season. A number of new business blocks
were added to the business center
during the year. The Odd Fel
lows hall, a substantial two-story
brick ; the Guidinger block, on
Third, north of Oregon ; the
Bundy block, a three-story brick ;
the Johnston block on Third, be
side two or three new business
buildings on Oregon avenue were
constructed.
The organization of the Santa
Monica Investment Company
on February 27th was an
important step in the development which was marking the north side.
This company was made up of leading business men and capitalists who
proposed to buy, build, sell, lease and otherwise handle real estate. Its stock
holders included J. Euclid Miles, who was made manager of the enterprise;
W. T. Gillis, W. E. Sawtelle, T. Horace Dudley, E. H. Sweetser, George Boehme,
E. W. Dike, N. R. Folsom, F. Niemann, R. R. Tanner, W. H. Dosing, J. P.
Jones. Dr. N. H. Hamilton, Dr. J. S. Hunt, Frederick H. Rindge, B. A. Nebeker,
H. X. Goetz, Roy Jones, Robert F. Jones, R. M. Miller, Sherman & Clark,
George H. Hutton. The company at once purchased a tract on Fourth street,
north of California, which they improved and built a block of six cottages upon.
During the year they built a dozen pretty, modern cottages north of California
street, thus providing what had long been needed, modern homes at reasonable
rates for newcomers. During the year much property changed hands at a
good figure and many handsome residences were erected. The Carnegie library
was well under way on Oregon and the property on the corner of Third and
Oregon had been purchased and the handsome three-story brick block for the
Merchants' National Bank had been planned. This new bank was organized
in1 May with T. H. Dudley president ; W. S. Vawter, vice-president ; George F.
Doty, cashier ; Carl F. Schader, Louis Blenkenhorn. W. C. Durgin. R. R. Tanner
RREXTWOOD.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 233
and William Mead, directors. It opened for business in the newly completed
Columbia block about August ist.
The Pacific Land Company placed on sale a tract of 400 acres lying between
Sawtelle and Twenty-sixth street and the W. T. Gillis Company reported sales
during the year of over thirty pieces of property, ranging from a single lot to
twenty-two acres and valued at $45,000. The establishment of a large brick
and tile manufacturing plant added a solid factor to the resources of Santa
Monica. A company was formed by R. F. Jones, W. T. Gillis, J. H. Spires,
C. H. Sweet and R. M. Miller. They secured a tract of twenty-two acres of
land and began putting up an extensive plant, known as the "' Sunset Tile and
Brick Company." This later passed into the hands of the Los Angeles Pressed
Brick Company, one of the most extensive manufacturers of clay products in
the state. The clays of Santa Monica had long been known to be superior ;
but it is now fully demonstrated that they are of the finest grade for the best
class of pressed and vitrified brick and that they are also susceptible of being
used for a fine grade of pottery, under proper handling.
The consolidation of the United Electric, Gas and Power Company with
the Edison Company this year put the lighting and heating of Santa Monica
upon a more metropolitan basis and marked the end of any local interest in the
company. An important industry inaugurated this year was the organization of
a stock company, known as the Plant and Floral Company, to carry on a nursery
business and deal in plants and cut flowers. Ten acres of land were secured near
Oregon and Twenty-first streets, which were later increased to twenty acres, so
successful was the enterprise, now known as the Golden State Plant Co.
Another new industry, which has brought much wealth into the community
was the culture of the Lima bean. It had been supposed until this year that
Ventura county was the banner bean county and need fear no rival. But in
1902 R. C. Gillis made some experiments with bean culture on lands near the
Soldiers' Home, which resulted in a net income of $40.00 per acre. As a con
sequence, Mr. Gillis leased 1500 acres of land to be put into beans in 1903, and
it was estimated that nearly 8000 acres of beans were planted on lands lying
between Los Angeles and the Santa Monica bay region. The yield was not so
large as was expected, on account of the season being unfavorable ; yet the
profits were large enough to justify a still larger acreage in 1904. The bean
raising industry is now firmly established in this district and is one of the most
important sources of revenue. The acreage of 1904 was estimated as 10,000
acres and the yield was valued at $400,000. As the cultivation and harvesting
is all done by machinery, the percentage of profit is large and Los Angeles county
is now closely ranking Ventura in the matter of bean culture.
Street improvements were the order of the day during this year, over $72,000
having been spent and contracts let for $40,000 more, according to the estimate
of the Times, exclusive of the work done by private contract ; 184 building per
mits were granted, covering an expenditure of $265,000. The Dudley building
\Y. T. GTUJS.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 235
was in process of erection. The Santa Monica Bank was improving its building
at a cost of over $12,000. The Carnegie library building was completed and
occupied in July. The Hollister-avenue pleasure pier was under way, to extend
900 feet from shore and to cost about $25,000.
In the Pier-avenue district, much street work had been done and many
improvements were made. The Hammel building, a three-story brick, cost
about $20,000 ; the Hanniman and Yolk blocks each cost about $5000 ; the Powell
building, the Wisconsin and Metropole, and the Maier & Zobelein buildings
were all substantial structures. There was talk of a hundred thousand dollar
hotel between Navy and Marine avenues, which would place part of the building
in Ocean Park and part in Santa Monica. This proposition was merely talk,
however, until 1905, when the Hotel Decatur was finally built, thus giving this
section a hostelry suited to its demands. After several attempts to secure a
franchise, the Home Telephone Company began work in July under a permit,
and a franchise was granted later in the year.
The Municipal League had been revived and during the spring held a num
ber of meetings in which needed municipal improvements were discussed.
Largely through the action of the league a bond issue was called for, to secure
funds to build two fire engine houses, additional fire apparatus and a fire alarm
system. The cost was estimated at $14,500. Included with this was a proposal
for bonds to fill in around bridges No. I and 2 and build retaining walls at a
cost of $14,250; to repair and extend the sewer system, and build septic tanks,
$21,000; to improve Linda Vista, Seventh street and South Side parks, $20,250,
and to construct water works and secure its own water plant, $150,000. After
a short and not very enthusiastic campaign, the entire bond proposition was
defeated on August i6th. It was. of course, solidly opposed by the district
which it was proposed to include in Ocean Park, and this election gave a hint
of the relative strength of the divisionists and the advocates of a " greater Santa
Monica."
The question of repairing the outfall sewer was now forced upon Santa
Monica. There had been much discussion of possible sewage disposition during
the year. Ocean Park was still using the Santa Monica outfall sewer, although
the council had demanded that their sewer be cut off the first of August. In
the meantime the new town was making desperate efforts to solve the problem.
At one time it was proposed that a main trunk line be constructed along the
beach to connect with the Los Angeles outfall. Hut this was blocked by the
Playa del Rev interests and found impracticable, although Los Angeles was
willing — for a consideration. The sewage farm method was also considered,
but proved impracticable. So Ocean Park continued to depend upon Santa
Monica for sewage disposal under the old agreement between the city and Kinney
& Ryan, made December 28th, 1897, which permitted those land owners to con
nect with the Santa Monica outfall sewer. The singular reversal of conditions
which has later made Santa Monica dependent upon Ocean Park for sewage
236 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
outfall is one of the many anomalies arising from the peculiar relations of the
mother town and its offshoot. But Santa Monica maintained that the old agree
ment was with Messrs. Kinney & Ryan and not with the town of Ocean Park,
and in November, 1904, demanded a rental of $50.00 per month for the use of
their outfall. As the rental was not forthcoming the city finally took steps to
sue to collect the money. But the great storm of March, 1905, which almost
destroyed the sewer wharf (at Pier avenue) and caused a break near shore in
the sewer pipe, changed the aspect of matters. The Ocean Park bath house was
newly completed and the discharge of sewage at Pier avenue proved dangerous
to its success. The city trustees ordered the city engineer to temporarily repair
the breaks ; but the complete restoration of the outfall required a sum which
could only be obtained by a bond election and the bond election for that purpose
having been defeated the previous August, another election for such bonds could
not be called within the year. In February, Fraser and Jones had entered into
a twenty-year contract with the city for the use of the Pier-avenue wharf as
the foundation for a pleasure wharf, they to keep the same in repair. .But on
the destruction of the wharf, Messrs. Fraser and Jones declined to keep the
contract and there was no apparent prospect of the wharf being again rebuilt,
unless the city was able to do it.
The newly incorporated town of Ocean Park had already voted bonds for
a septic tank and sewer system and in order to save the situation at Pier avenue,
the trustees of the town now offered Santa Monica the use of their new septic
tank for six months, or until the older city could make some arrangements for
caring for her sewage. After some discussion the Santa Monica trustees decided,
June 27th. 1905, to accept this proposition. The new septic tank was not com
pleted as soon as was expected and rather than have the sewage turned into
the sea at Pier avenue, it was turned into the Ocean Park mains and discharged
on their dump — thus creating a nuisance which caused complaint from the people
of South Ocean Park and Playa del Rey.
In the meantime the matter of voting bonds for the repair and completion
of the sewer system was again agitated in Santa Monica. The necessity of
better fire protection was also urgent and October 3ist, 1905, the city voted bonds
to the amount of $100,000 to be expended — $37,500 for sewer system and septic
tank ; $6500 for repairing bridge No. 4 and for retaining walls for bridge No. i ;
$17,500 for two fire engine houses, fire alarm system and apparatus; $10,000
for garbage incinerator. It was supposed that this would settle the sewer ques
tion and soon result in relief for Ocean Park. But, after a careful consideration
of the situation, it was found to be impossible to provide a septic tank and outfall
sewer for the sum provided. As the residents of the Pier-avenue region were
strongly opposed to the further use of the old outfall sewer, Santa Monica trus
tees continued to use the Ocean Park septic tank, now completed, and put in a
pumping plant at Pier avenue to raise the sewage into the Ocean Park mains.
But the new septic tank failed to deodorize the sewage, as was expected, and
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 237
although a wharf and outfall extending into the sea was built at Center street,
there was still complaint of odoriferous breezes and other things, which finally
culminated in a bitter factional fight in the city of Ocean Park, leading to the
attempt to disincorporate the municipality, and which placed the city of Santa
Monica in a most unpleasant predicament, as she was ordered by the courts to
cease using the Ocean Park mains, while she had still no provision for caring
for her own sewage.
During 1906 the garbage incinerator was completed for Santa Monica and
various mains were constructed in preparation for the erection of a septic tank.
But a suitable location for the septic tank and outfall system could not be found.
The entire community was canvassed ; innumerable suggestions were made by
the citizens, the council and by outsiders ; hut no solution of the matter that
promised to satisfy all was reached until September, 1907, when the board of
trade presented a plan, which was adopted by the council and which promises
to be a complete success. This was. in brief, the building of a substantial pier
at the foot of Colorado street ; the location of a septic tank and pumping plant
at the shore end of this wharf and the discharge of the outfall at the extremity,
1700 feet from the shore. This plan met with approval all around and was
ratified by the voting of $160,000 bonds for carrying it out, September 3Oth, 1907.
Bids have been called for and the work will be pushed on the completion of
the system as rapidly as is possible.
It was natural that when Santa Monica found herself surrounded by a
thickly settled district which was demanding school facilities, she should begin
to think of expansion. The demand for school buildings to accommodate the
children of the Irwin Heights settlement and of the district east of Seventeenth
street, led to the proposition to annex these districts to the city before attempting
to vote bonds for school purposes. April I4th, 1905, a mass meeting of citizens
decided that at least two new school buildings must be provided, and that an
election should be called to vote $60,000 bonds for that purpose. The board
of trade immediately afterward proposed that the boundaries be extended from
Eighth and Marine streets to Twenty-seventh and Montana avenue. A petition
for annexation was presented by the people of the district and on August 29th,
1905, an election was held which resulted in an addition which nearly doubled
the size of the corporation.
On September I2th the bond election was held and $60,000 was voted for
schools. But after consideration, it was decided that it would be economy to
construct the new buildings of brick and that at least three buildings were
needed. December 9th $15,000 additional was voted to complete the three
buildings. But expanison in population and territory was not enough. It was
felt by many citizens and by the board of trade that an expansion in the form
of city government would give greater advantages to the municipality. It would
require the division of the city into equitable wards, give the people a chance
to govern themselves according to their own special needs, instead of under
I
RALPH BAXK.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 239
state laws and give the municipality powers which it would not have under the
incorporation as a city of the fifth class. In order to secure such a charter, a city
must have a population of 3500 and to determine the present population of Santa
Monica, the trustees ordered a special census. May I5th this census was com
pleted and a total of 7208 inhabitants reported. The charter must be prepared
bv a board of fifteen freeholders, each of whom must have resided in the city
and voted here for five years consecutively. They are to be elected by the
people at a general or special election. A committee of the board of trade sub
mitted the following list of freeholders as candidates for election : T. H. Dudley,
C. A. Stilson, George D. Snyder, R. R. Tanner, George H. Hutton, H. X. Goetz,
W. I. Hull, A. M. Jamison," W. S- Vawter, Robert F. Jones, D. G. Holt, B. A.
Nebeker, E. J. Yawter, Roy Jones, A. N. Archer. This was known as a non-
partisan ticket. A " citizens' " ticket was also put up, but seven of the nominees
declined to serve and three of those left were on the non-partisan ticket, which
was elected by a large majority at a special election held October i8th, 1905.
November 3rd the board organized for duty, C. A. Stilson was made presi
dent and committees on law, boundaries, offices, public utilities, taxation and
election, education and libraries, were announced. After several weeks of stren
uous work on the part of the board of freeholders, the proposed charter was
subrhitted to the consideration of the people in January, 1906. There was some
opposition to certain of its terms — it was held that it too greatly centralized
power ; but it was felt that generally its provisions were wise and that it was
best to adopt it. At the election March 28th, 1906, the instrument was adopted
by a vote of 376 for to 183 against. At the same time the uninhabited territory
known as the " Palisades " was annexed to the city and the uniform shade-tree
act was adopted.
Santa Monica, with her new charter, with an area of eleven square miles ;
with an assessment which increased from $3,830,677.00 in 1905 to $6,523,186.00
in 1906; with her rapidly growing population; with ample school facilities, the
best streets in the country and as fine public buildings as are to be found in any
city of the same size, was now fairly on the way to become the ideal city of
homes.
The building of a new brick manufacturing plant by an eastern corporation,
the Simmons Brick Co., added largely to the clay manufacturing possibilities.
A large sum was expended in improved machinery and in buildings. To this
company and to the Los Angeles Pressed Brick Company plant were awarded
the contract for furnishing 18,000,000 brick required for the Los Angeles outfall
sewer. Another company was also formed this year to utilize the Santa Monica
clays in making pottery, but this industry is not yet established. It is only a
question of proper handling, however, as it has been demonstrated that Santa
Monica clays have no superior for fine work, in the hands of experienced workers.
Among the incidents of the year may be mentioned the visits of the Knights
240
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
of Columbus, ' a national Catholic organization, the members of whom were
royally entertained by Santa Monicans and .carried away golden memories of
this city by the sea. One of the worst fires on record in the city took place
September gth when Budy's livery stable on Third near Utah, was burned and
six horses lost their lives, while a large quantity of hay was destroyed. On
June 4th the city was startled by the news that their postoffice had been robbed
of more than $3000 worth of cash, stamps and registered mail matter. This was
one of a series of exceedingly bold postoffice robberies which occurred during
this summer.
1906.
During this year a determined effort was made to improve the streets of
Santa Monica by the latest methods of oiling and surfacing. In pursuance of
this object about 12,000 barrels of oil were used and many streets which had
hitherto been dusty in summer
and muddy in winter became
practically as hard and clean as
paved streets. The Santa Monica
system of oil-paved streets be
came widely known and was
rated as having an important
bearing on the problem of road
construction. This method was
used in improving San Vicente
road, the new boulevard from
the Soldiers' Home to Ocean
avenue. This street was 130
feet wide, with the trolley lines in the center, was curbed and lined with trees
and when completed made one of the finest drives in the county. It was pro
posed to extend Sunset boulevard and improve it to connect with this new road.
There was also much talk during the year of a finely improved boulevard from
Washington street, Los Angeles, to Ocean Park to join the Del Rey speedway.
A scheme for a boulevard to extend southward along the coast to Redondo and
thence to San Pedro was also proposed and discussed, but has not yet materialized.
Much talk of the Gould line which was supposed to be coming down the coast
via the Malibu road which was in course of construction, and which would give
Santa Monica a new " transcontinental " line, was indulged in. There was
also much talk of Huntington purchasing everything in sight and building a
new trolley line to Los Angeles — all of which served to fill the papers.
One of the most beautiful suburbs of Santa Monica, located just to the
north and within view of the ocean, is Brentwood Park. This is a tract of sev
eral hundred acres which has been highly improved. Streets have been graded
and oiled, curbs and gravel walks laid and many hundreds of trees and shrubs
BRENTWOOD PARK.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 241
planted out. Water is piped to every lot and electric lights have been installed.
A number of handsome homes have been built here.
In January the Odd Fellows dedicated their handsome new building on
Third street and January 3ist the Merchants' National Bank moved into its
own quarters in the Dudley block, a structure that would do credit to any city.
The Kensington apartments, an attractive apartment house containing all the
latest devices for comfort, was built on the ocean front south of the Arcadia, at
a cost of $15,000. Several new blocks were put up on Pier avenue. The build
ing permits from January to June reached the sum of $194,277, aside from the
three new school buildings, which were to cost $75,000, and the $50,000 pavilion
at Pier avenue. Two new fire engine houses were also constructed and
the garbage incinerator completed. One of the most notable improvements of
the year was the Santa Monica hospital building, which was begun, after long
planning, and was completed in the spring of 1907. This is a handsome two-
story brick structure, standing on a commanding eminence on South Fourth
street. It is completely equipped in the most modern style and is fast taking
rank as one of the leading hospitals of the south coast- The handsome two-story
brick building which took the place of the old Sixth-street school house was
completed and occupied in the spring of 1907, as was also the Roosevelt school
building on the Palisades.
1907.
The most important advance of this year has been the final action in the
matter of sewage disposal. After long agitation a plan which seemed to the
majority to be feasible and desirable was suggested and on September 3Oth bonds
to the amount of $150,000 were voted for the building of a 1700- foot pier at the
foot of Colorado avenue which will carry the outfall sewer pipe from the septic
tank at the foot of Colorado avenue. A number of other improvements will
follow the completion of this wharf. During the year building permits to the
amount of $250,000 were granted. These included the $10,000 addition to the
M. E. church ; a new garbage incinerator, the new postoffice building and many
private residences. The Santa Monica Development Company is engaged in
the construction of a large reservoir, for impounding additional water for the
city supply, in Sepulveda canon. It will have a capacity of about two million
gallons and will cost $75,000. An independent gas company has been organized
and promises to become a factor in the situation. The demand for real estate,
while not so active as during previous years, has been steady and property in
" old Santa Monica " continues steadily to increase in desirability.
The city of Santa Monica, after passing through many stages of develop
ment, is now a clean, well ordered, and most attractive place of residence. At
present it has no hotel, no first-class restaurant and offers few attractions to the
transient, or the crowd ; but it draws a constantly increasing number of perma-
16
A. F. TOHNSTOX.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 243
nent residents of the better class ; while attractive cottages and apartments are
filled by the people who wish to pass a restful season at the beach.
THE Visit OF THE ATLANTIC SQUADRON.
The visit of a fleet of sixteen first-class war vessels of the United States
navy, in April, 1908, was one of the greatest events in the history of the coast.
Elaborate preparations for the reception and entertainment of the guests were
made and Santa Monica and Ocean Park took an active part in the occasion.
An executive committee consisting of David Evans, chairman ; Abbot Kinney,
R. A. Phillips, W. T. Wheatley, Mayor T. H. Dudley, R. W. Armstrong and
H. B. Eakin, was appointed. It was largely through the efforts of this body
that the arrangement was made to divide the fleet and station it at different
points. As a result of this plan the third division, consisting of the Maine,
Ohio, Missouri and Minnesota, anchored off these shores for a week.
The citizens of the Bay region, under the direction of various committees,
elaborately decorated streets and buildings ; planned entertainments for men and
officers and were hosts to thousands of visitors. Balls for the enlisted men were
given in the pavilions and a most elaborate ball was arranged for the officers,
at the country club. The W. C. T. U., under Mrs. Hesther T. Griffith, main
tained headquarters at Venice for the sailors and the ladies of the Bay cities
welcomed the guests with masses of flowers and many courtesies. Friday, April
23rd, was observed as a legal holiday and was given up to entertaining the guests.
On Saturday, April 24th, the entire squadron, in the presence of the largest
crowd ever assembled on Santa Monica Bay shores, maneuvered and then sailed
silently away to the north.
ANNUAL ASSESSMENT OF CITY OF SANTA MONICA.
1887 $2,405,048.00 1897 1,869,132.00
1888 2,351,108.00 1898 1,871,588.00
1889 . 1,807,228.00 1899 1,896,844.00
1890 1,771,332.00 1900 1,910,158.00
1891 1,565,773.00 1901 1,991,310.00
1892 1,648,846.00 1902 2,220,431.00
1893 1,654,274.00 1903 2,887,574.00
1894 . 1,705,467.00 1904 3,472,124.00
1895 1,830,503.00 1905 3,830,677.00
1,799,545.00 1906 6,523,086.00
1907 7,886,310.00
CHAPTER VI.
SOUTH SANTA MONICA AND OCEAN PARK.
WHEN the town site of Santa Monica was laid out it was surrounded by
a very large area of unbroken and unoccupied territory. The great San
Vicente ranch was mostly devoted to sheep pasturage. A few native
Californians cultivated small tracts on the Boca de Santa Monica ; but that tract
was also largely devoted to sheep grazing. On La Ballona, Anderson Rose and
one or two others had begun to farm and the Machados raised some grain, but
the greater portion of the tract was uncultivated.
In 1874 Mrs. Nancy A. Lucas, a wealthy widow, with three sons, purchased
a tract of 861 acres from the Machados. This joined the San Vicente on the
north and extended as far south as the present city limits of the city of Santa
Monica, the line having followed the lines of the Lucas tract. The price paid
was $14.00 per acre. Mrs. Lucas at once began to improve her property
and in 1875 she erected a house on the highest point of her ranch — the hill
between what is now Strand and Hill streets and Third and Fourth. The
house was an ambitious two-story affair, costing some $12,000, and was for
years the finest residence in the vicinity of Santa Monica and a landmark of
note until its destruction by fire in December, 1904.
Her sons farmed on a large scale, raising fine crops of barley on the place.
Two of them opened a lumber yard in Santa Monica and they were prominently
connected with affairs in the early days of the community. In 1881, Mrs. Lucas,
who was rather eccentric and lived on the place much of the time alone except
for her Chinese cook, died suddenly under circumstances which gave rise to
suspicion and much comment. She was said to have died from the effects of
strychnine poisoning, supposedly used for killing rats. The property passed
into the hands of her heirs and was soon broken up. The house, with three
acres of land, was sold to Miss Mary Green, in her day known as one of the
most beautiful women in California. She soon afterward married Dan Mooney,
a well-known character of early days. He had been a miner in Arizona and
had acquired considerable fortune. They took up their residence in the Lucas
house which was thereafter known as the " Mooney Mansion."
August i7th, 1885, Mr. and Mrs. Mooney started to drive to Los Angeles.
While on the way, Mr. Mooney's pistol fell from his pocket and inflicted a
mortal wound in his back. Later Mrs. Mooney married Col. A. B. Hotchkiss,
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 245
a well-known and brilliant attorney, who was for many years a Southern Pacific
representative. He was also the editor of a magazine, Public Resources, which
did some effective work in advertising the country. He died April 3rd, 1905.
Col. and Mrs. Hotchkiss owned and, at times, occupied the Mooney Mansion
until its destruction. Many romantic tales have been set afloat at one time
and another about the old house which stood alone in state upon the hill over
looking the ocean for so many years. Its burning was also mysterious — so
mysterious that the insurance companies refused to pay up without a lawsuit.
In 1875 Mrs. Lucas sold a fifty-acre tract, adjoining the new town and
fronting the ocean, to Ivar A. Weid, a well-known Los Angeles capitalist. He
at once advertised, " South Santa Monica — Five minutes' walk from the new
Wharf. Block No. 4, with Ocean Frontage of 370 feet." Later he changed his
ad to, " SOUTH SANTA MONICA, Lots 60x150 feet. Villa Sites purchased
by Judges Bicknell and Glassell, Captain Thorn, and others." In March, 1876,
the Outlook announces that Captain Thorn had sent down a carload of shrub
bery to be planted on his place at South Santa Monica. March 22nd, 1876,
this item appears in the Outlook:
" Improvements are progressing rapidly over at South Santa Monica.
Major Mitchell, Captain Thorn and Judges Bicknell and Glassell are all build
ing and planting trees. We understand that General Stoneman and Major
Hancock will begin building within a few days. A well has been sunk and a
windmill and tank erected which is the common property of several lot owners.
C. H. Edwards & Co., of Los Angeles, are planting the shrubbery and making
an excellent job of it." This little settlement, which seems to have had rather
a military flavor, remained for some years the most exclusive and fashionable
beach resort in the vicinity of Los Angeles. Some of these old cottages still
remain on the bluff and are surrounded by fine trees. The Thorn place with
its luxuriant growth of trees and shrubbery is still kept up.
Another early settlement in South Santa Monica was the Central tract,
laid out by J. W. Scott in 1876. A number of giant eucalyptus still remain of
the trees planted by him at this time.
A portion of the Lucas ranch was divided into twenty-acre blocks by E.
H. Lucas, one of the sons. A number of these were sold in the early eighties
to various parties, including several Englishmen. The land was fertile and
water was easily obtained by putting down wells and some prosperous little
ranches were established here. Among these early settlers were Walter H.
Wrenn, Nathan Bundy, Thomas Carlisle, Joseph and John Bontty. In 1884
the Vawters purchased 100 acres of the Lucas lands, lying south of Hollister
avenue and east of the electric tracks. They paid $40.00 per acre for it, and
in 1887 disposed of about half of it for a large sum. In 1886, the Crippens, a
246 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
real estate firm of Los Angeles, bought 350 acres, extending from Eighth street
east and to the San Vicente ranch line. In December this was put upon the
market as East Santa Monica, villa lots of two and one-half acres being offered
for $500.00, although the land had been sold the previous year for $40.00
an acre.
The boom struck this portion of Santa Monica with considerable force.
The Vawters sold the Santa Fe tract of 53 acres to R. R. Tanner and Thomas
A. Lewis, who put down a well, subdivided into lots, put in sidewalks and
advertised an auction sale to take place August loth, 1887. The highest price
paid for one of these lots was $725.00. Houses were built on the tract by T.
A. Lewis, Messrs. Tanner, W. S. Vawter and others. In March, the Wave
Crest tract was put on sale with an auction, and the newspapers report sales to
amount of $52,490.00 for 90 lots. H. L. Jones subdivided a tract to which he
gave the name of Ocean Spray, 120 lots, which met with ready sale. The
Arcadia, Ocean View, Commercial Company's tract and others were • opened
up during this period and a large number of improvements were made. George
Kintz built the Crystal Springs bath house and plunge during the latter part
of '87, and the Ballona and Santa Monica road was incorporated, to build a
standard guage road from the Port of Ballona to Santa Monica, a distance of
seven miles. M. L. Wicks, J. Bernard, Jr., and James Campbell were among
the incorporators. Work was at this time being pushed on what was fondly
hoped to be the terminus of the Santa Fe road at Ballona, and Santa Monica
was strong in the hope of a new " transcontinental " line.
But after the sudden rise in values in 1887 and 1888, came a depression
when progress was at a standstill ; many of the town lots lapsed into acreage
property and there was little sale for acreage even, although the drop in prices
was not so noticeable here as in many localities. South Santa Monica, although
included as far east as Eighth street in the city boundaries, as adopted in 1886,
was still a rural community with scattered residences and dusty roads. The
street car line had been extended from Santa Monica to the city limits in 1887,
but the service was infrequent and slow.
In the spring of 1889 the Ostrich Farm was established at South Santa
Monica. A tract of seven acres, known as the " Santa Monica Tract," was
fenced in and thirty-four birds, with the nucleus of what was intended to be a
menagerie, were brought here from Kenilworth, in the Cahuenga valley, where
they had been located. In 1882, Dr. Charles S. Sketchley, an Englishman who
had been engaged in ostrich farming in South Africa, came to California and
selected a site near Anaheim as the best location he could find in California for
an ostrich1 farm. His attempt here was so successful that about 1885 a syndicate
was formed and Dr. Sketchley was sent again to Africa to pecure new birds. He
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 247
returned with thirty-four fine birds which were placed on the Los Feliz rancho
in the Cahuenga foothills. A park and menagerie were planned and it was
hoped to make this one of the leading attractions of Los Angeles. In 1887 the
Ostrich Farm railway was built to Burbank and Kenilworth as the station at
the Ostrich Farm was named ; but this location proved too out of the way and
the venture was not a financial success. Then South Santa Monica was chosen
as a more accessible spot, offering other attractions as well.
About thirty birds were brought here under the management of Mr.
Henry Beauchamp, also English. But the Outlook states that Mr. Beauchamp
was a " Moody and Sankey convert " and refused to keep his place open on
Sundays, " which is good religion but poor business." After a couple of
years the ostriches were removed to a new location near the Southern Pacific
depot and under the management of Mr. Harold Perry, the place was made
very attractive. Later Mr. Frank Ellis became manager, and in 1893 sold six
birds to Sells circus, which were declared by the circus people to be the finest
ostriches they had ever seen. Many old resident will remember the chase
which followed the escape of a full grown African bird from the enclosure.
The frantic creature, after being driven over the hills in the vicinity of the
Soldiers' Home was finally headed homeward, only to dash past the farm, into
the ocean — to its death. About 1895 the remaining birds were removed to
Anaheim and this attraction ceased to be counted among the charms of South
Santa Monica.
Up to 1890 this section had no school facilities and the children were
obliged to attend the Sixth street school in Santa Monica — a long and difficult
journey. After a good deal of discussion and several petitions for relief, the
school trustees finally decided, February, 1890, to establish a school in South
Santa Monica.
February 25th, 1888, the board of school trustees voted to purchase two
lots, 12 and 13 of the Santa Fe tract, at $1,000.00 each. Nothing further in
reference to providing a school for the south side appears until February loth,
1890, when the minutes state that a proposition was received from E. Emerson,
to build a house at South Santa Monica suitable for school purposes and to
rent the same to the district for six months at a rental of $50.00 per month.
This proposition was accepted by the board and February 28th they elected
Miss Ellen L. Huie as teacher, at a salary of $60.00 per month. What happened
in the interim does not appear but on the records under date of March 4th, all
the " above action " is rescinded, and Miss Huie was allowed $7.50 to reimburse
her for her expenses in coming to Santa Monica. At a special meeting of the
board held August 2ist, 1890, Miss Huie was again employed to teach "the
south side " school at a salary of $50.00 per month, the " school to be discontinued
at the pleasure of the board."
248 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
A small school house was built on the school lots, probably during the
summer of 1890. In August, 1895, a special tax of $1,500.00 was voted to build
a school house on the " south side " and a one-room building was put up and
in the fall was occupied, with Miss Alice M. Frazier as teacher.
Early in the seventies an Englishman, Col. Hutchinson, loaned money to
the Machados, taking mortgages upon various pieces of land as security. One
of these was a narrow strip of beach frontage extending from Strand street to
the southern limits of La Ballona grant. This strip of sand was supposed to
be worthless for any purpose, unless a wharf for commercial purposes could be
built from it. Apparently the belief was general that the only thing needed
to make a commercial city of Santa Monica was a wharf where vessels might
land. After the abandonment of the " old wharf," in 1878, five acres of land
were donated by Mrs. Lucas and others and Juan Bernard began the construction
of a wharf which is was fondly hoped might restore Santa Monica to the ship
ping lists of the Pacific coast. But the structure was never completed and no
boat ever landed there. In 1888, Messrs. Lewis and Van Every proposed to
build a wharf from the foot of Bicknell avenue and in 1891 the proposition
of the Terminal Wharf Company came up, various grants and concessions being
made in consequence; but no wharf was built.
In 1892 the Santa Fe and Santa Monica railroad was incorporated and
proceeded to secure a right of way from Inglewood to Santa Monica. A
concession of twelve acres of land was made them by the Terminal Wharf Com
pany and Kinney and Ryan, on condition that the company expend at least
$15,000 in improvements, including a wharf and a pavillion. Considerable
difficulty was met with in obtaining the right of way, condemnation proceedings
being necessary in some cases ; but a strip 130 feet wide was finally secured from
the city limits to the Southern Pacific reservation. A depot was located near
the Ostrich Farm and on June i8th, 1892, the Santa Fe brought in its first
train, with a widely advertised excursion to the " Coney Island of the Pacific."
Later a building known as " the pavilion " was erected on Hill street and a
cement sidewalk laid to the ocean front.
A group of trees on land near this depot was then known as Vawter Park ;
with the Ostrich Farm, the new pavilion, and the many beach improvements
being made by Messrs. Abbot Kinney and F. G. Ryan, who had lately secured
title to the Hutchinson property on the ocean front, South Santa Monica began
to count itself as a " resort."
The Outlook for May 6th, 1893. says: "It is quite lively on the South
Side. Three new cottages have just been completed on the Santa Monica tract,
to be given away with the lots distributed on the first of June. A number of
summer residences are either completed or in course of construction. The land
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 249
company is now putting down a plank walk from the tract across the sand
hills to the sea, and it is on the programme to begin the construction of a
bath house at an early date. Altogether we can safely say that the ' Souhh
Side ' will be in the swim this summer."
The houses alluded to were built by Messrs. Kinney and Ryan on their
Santa Monica tract and were given away with lots sold by distribution. Prices
were $100.00 per lot, on easy terms.
In the spring of 1893 the Young Men's Christian Association of Southern
California, after considerable discussion and looking about, decided to accept
the proposition of Messrs. Kinney and Ryan to donate them a strip of land
between the Santa Fe tract and ocean, 250 feet on ocean front and extending
back to the Santa Fe right of way, about five acres included. June 2ist, the
Young Men's Christian Association Ocean Park Company was duly organized
with a capital stock of $10,000, and the following incorporators : J. C. Salisbury,
M. H. Merriman, F. H. Rindge, A. D. Childress, S. H. Wheeler, A. A. Adair,
of Riverside ; Charles E. Day, president ; R. G. Lunt, vice-president ; George
W. Parsons, secretary ; F. M. Potter, treasurer ; O. T. Johnson, J. H. Brawley,
W. F. Bosbyshell, C. C. Reynolds, Lyman Stewart, and other prominent men
of Southern California In announcing its decision, the incorporators give as
reasons for their selection : " The land is about three-fourths of a mile south
of Arcadia Hotel, is close to the railroad station of the great Santa Fe route,
which reaches nearly every hamlet and village in Southern California. It has
a fine, clean, sandy beach, of gentle slope, making a safe and delightful place for
bathing. Near this land is a fine /o by 1000 feet grove, with pavilion erected
therein, making a pleasant place for a picnic and the only accessible place
where a grove and the beach are so close together. A fine wharf will be con
structed close to this land in the near future, when the coast steamers will connect
with the Santa Fe route for all points on their line. It will be one of the most
popular lines between Los Angeles and Catalina Island." Which shows that
the Y. M. C. A. people were no better at prophesying future results than the
sanguine " wharf boomers " of Santa Monica.
In consideration of the donation by Messrs. Kinney and Ryan and Messrs.
Vawter, the " Ocean Park Company ", named from the eucalyptus grove of the
Vawters, was to build a commodious bath house and an auditorium, which it
was expected would be the scene of many religious conventions and assemblies.
The bath house was built during the summer and many new cottages were put
up. In July an auction sale of lots took place, 80 lots, 25 by 100 feet, being sold
at about $45.00 apiece.
During this summer St. David's Mission, Episcopalian, held services in
250 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
the school house and the South Santa Monica Baptist Mission was organized
by Rev. H. S. Baker, and in 1894 the Baptist chapel was erected.
In May, 1895, Kinney and Ryan named their settlement " Ocean Park 'r
and the Santa Fe giving this name to their station, the existence of the district
of Ocean Park may be said to date from this year. The Y. M. C. A. people
put up some new buildings this summer and Kinney and Ryan put in a half
mile of beach sidewalk, the first on the beach and a greatly appreciated improve
ment. In September, the Santa Fe fulfilled its promise of a wharf by putting
in a new type in such structures, using iron pipe for piles. It was located about
300 feet south of Hill street and was only 500 feet in length, and thus the
connection with the great world, which had been hoped for, was again delayed.
The Y. M. C. A. and the summer visitors were favored by many pleasant
entertainments, concerts and lectures during this season and Ocean Park began
to be regarded as a most desirable location for those who wished a quiet and
inexpensive summer outing. Many lots were leased or purchased and many
modest cottages were put up as summer homes. These first beach cottages
were very simple affairs — a long box of upright boards, with a couple of parti
tions, being the usual pattern. At this time there were few buildings south of
Hill street and the " hills " were still the favorite place of residence. A cluster of
small business buildings had grown up about the street car terminus and the
Santa Fe station.
Ocean Park, although within the corporate limits of Santa Monica, had
not been supplied with water by the municipality. Messrs. Kinney and Ryan
had their own water supply piped to the beach ; but the people on other tracts
began to discuss the advisability of having a water system and in December,
1895, the " City Water Company " was formed, with a capital stock of $20,000,
and with J. H. Claudius, E. J. Vawter, D. M. Clark, G. R. Green and E. J.
Vawter, Jr., as incorporators. Its object was to supply South Santa Monica
with water and to secure this wells were put down on the Vawter tract and pipes
laid through the district. This company was later succeeded by the Ocean Park
Water Company.
On June 3Oth, 1896, the first electric car made its initial trip through South
Santa Monica, after a day of strenuous labor on the part of the employees and
officials of the Los Angeles and Pacific electric line. Their subsidy of $5,000,
given by W. S. and E. J. Vawter, for what was known as the " loop line,"
expired at midnight of June 3Oth, and the work had been delayed to the last
possible moment. At 9:55 p.m., the first car left the corner of Ocean and
Oregon avenues and, after crossing the bridge, ran down Second street to Hill
street, thence eastward to Fourth and returned to Ocean avenue. The car and
its occupants were given an informal but none the less hearty welcome by the
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 251
South Siders, who felt that at last they were to be brought into touch with the
world (Xorth Beach). The coming of the electric line was, indeed, a great
advance for this settlement which had been so long hampered by poor trans
portation facilities. This year Santa Monica began to talk seriously of the
sewage problem and proposed to locate its outfall at a point south of the city
limits. From this time on date the sewer troubles of the beach.
In July an old-time auction sale with all its accompaniments, took place,
H. L. Jones reviving his " Ocean Spray " tract which had been first exploited
in 1887 and going one better on the methods of boom days by offering " one lot
free to the lucky holder of a thirty round-trip ticket." At this time the Santa
Fe was giving transportation at very reasonable rates to prospective purchasers
of Ocean Park property. Ben E. Ward, now of lamented memory, was the
auctioneer and eighty-eight lots were disposed of by his beguiling words —
and the very real attractions of the location.
May 3rd, 1897, witnessed a serious loss to Ocean Park in the burning of
the Y. M. C. A. auditorium, a large two-story building, which had cost about
$3,000 when erected in 1893. This was a misfortune as plans had already been
made for the most elaborate exercises yet held by the Y. M. C. A. assembly
during the coming season. The loss was complete as there was no water to
save the property, after the fire, which was evidently incendiary, was discovered.
There was no insurance ; but Mr. Day, president of the Ocean Park Company,
was equal to the occasion. He at once set about securing new quarters and in
August the University Assembly, with a full program of excellent speakers
and music, was successfully carried out. Among the speakers were Bishop
Fallows, of New York, and Professor Syle, of the State University. Miss
Ida Benfey gave a number of dramatic readings and a series of brilliant
their summer guests appeared to find the attractions of the surf and the military
concerts were presented. But, it must be confessed that Santa Monicans and
encampment, the tennis court and polo races greater than such a feast of reason
and culture and the assembly was not a financial success.
In May the new City Water Company turned the water into a mile and a
half of mains, the water coming from two wells and being stored in a 50,000
gallon tank. Thus, at last, the South Side hills had an adequate water supply
and a chance at fire protection. The electric light system was also extended
to Ocean Park this year and added to the metropolitan claims of the new
resort. Many new buildings, including several stores, a ten-room house erected
by Mrs. Bernard, forty or more beach cottages were added this year.
Ocean Park had now become ambitious. She had grown so rapidly and
attained such distinction that the citizens felt themselves entitled to every
advantage enjoyed by the " other side." The South Santa Monica Municipal
252 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
League was organized to " promote all measures that will benefit the city ; to
encourage all improvements, both public and private, to oppose saloons and
disreputable places in South Santa Monica," etc. A Ladies' Mutual Benefit
Association was also organized, its main object being to build a hall for public
meetings and use, a lot having been donated by Kinney and Ryan for the purpose.
All of these efforts added to the natural advantages offered and the spirit of
enterprise which had been shown in developing what had seemed an almost
worthless territory, brought about a development that became one of the
phenomena of the times.
OCEAN PARK DISTRICT.
The settlement known as Ocean Park was separated from Santa Monica
by the arroyo and the wide unimproved tract belonging to the Southern Pacific
reservation. This was unfortunate, as it made communication between the
two points difficult. The Santa Fe service was irregular; the horse car line
and its successor, the electric line, gave infrequent service ; the drive over
dusty, ungraded roads, and rickety bridges was not tempting, and the walking
through a mile of sand or dust was certainly not attractive. The settlement
about the Santa Fe depot and the Y. M. C. A. holdings was largely made up of
transient visitors from the interior, who rented cottages, or buih upon leased
lands. They seldom visited Santa Monica and scarcely realized that they were
within that municipality. It was natural that they should object to the long
journey to the postoffice and begin to express a desire for a postoffice of their
own. During 1898 the subject was agitated and promises secured, although the
office did not open for business until July, 1899.
This year Kinney and Ryan opened the Ocean Park race track and golf
links, which were improved by grading and planting a large number of trees.
One of the first golf tournaments held in California took place on these links
when they were opened to the public, in July, 1898. The same gentlemen had
contracted with the city trustees to build a wharf on the piling used to carry the
outfall sewer. This wharf was located at what was known as Pier avenue and
was completed in August. It was 1,250 feet in length and afforded a fine
opportunity to fishermen and pleasure seekers. The proprietors invited the
public to a free barbecue and clambake on the evening of Monday, August
29th, which was attended by a big crowd who enjoyed the feast, music, speeches
and dancing.
By coincidence, the old Santa Fe wharf was condemned by the city trustees
on the day the new wharf was opened and a few days later the old wharf was
practically destroyed by a storm. The completion of the new wharf stimulated
the building of the long proposed beach walk connecting the Kinney and Ryan
walk with Santa Monica. The Southern Pacific began by constructing a board
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 253
walk, 16 feet wide, in front of its property from Railroad avenue to the Crystal
plunge, and the North Beach Company followed with a walk connecting this
and the bath house. The city and citizens later built walks and thus about 1902
easy communication was at last established between the " north side " and the
" south side."
The " Ocean View," an eighteen-room hotel, was built by G. H. Strong,
and was opened July loth, with a spread; but only a few days later the new
hotel was destroyed by fire. Ocean Park suffered much during its early history
from fires which seemed to be, in many ca-^s, incendiary and which were very
destructive on account of the lack of fire-fighting appliances and water. A few
weeks later the store of Chambers & Co. was burned with its stock of groceries.
There was a long dispute over the insurance in this case and a good deal of
feeling was aroused by the circumstances.
The Methodist church began holding services in the Santa Fe depot in
October, with Rev. Robert S. Fisher as pastor; in August, 1899, the church
was organized as the South Santa Monica M. E. church ; the old Methodist
chapel was donated to them by the North Side church and removed to its
present location on Lake street.
1899.
The untimely death of Francis G. Ryan, of the firm of Kinney & Ryan,
who had practically created Ocean Park, led to a change and in 1899 T., H.
Dudley married Mrs. Ryan and became interested with Mr. Kinney in the
development of the now promising beach resort. Aggressive advances were
made in the spring of this year. The Outlook of March roth says: " All told,
there are now 200 cottages on this property, a great many of which were erected
last year. There are now some ten or twelve in process of erection and contracts
for new ones are being made every week. These cottages are not mere shacks,
but will be neat and commodious, costing all the way from $350 to $1000.
They are being put up by first-class tenants, mostly professional and business
men from Los Angeles. Water is supplied from the city water works and
electric lights are being put into the more pretentious structures. Beach lots
are rented at about $15 per year to those who will put up neat and substantial
cottages. No land is sold outright, but long leases are given."
Messrs. Kinney and Dudley purchased the old Y. M. C. A. bath house
this year, moved it a block south and refitted it. In July, Pier avenue was
opened, Kinney and Dudley giving a deed to the necessary land to the city.
The first building put up was a bowling alley, situated near the beach and
carried on by Mr. J. G. Holborow. July 28th the post office of " Oceanpark "
was opened for business. This office had been secured after a long and hard
contest by Mr. Kinney, it being the only instance of two separate post offices
254 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
established within a single municipality. Mr. L. B. Osborne was the first post
master and the office was located in his grocery store on Second street.
This year Mr. E. J. Vawter began the development of the carnation beds
which have become one of Santa Monica's best-known industries. He devoted
fifteen acres of land on South Fourth street to the culture of flowers, mostly
carnations and roses. A 5,ooo-gallon tank stored water for irrigation of the
tract. The soil and conditions proved to be favorable for the production of the
finest varieties and the venture proved most successful. Large green houses
and increased acreage are now devoted to the propagation of flowers which are
marketed in Los Angeles and shipped to distant points. Many street improve
ments were made during this year and Kinney and Dudley planted out nearly
twenty acres to trees, using 10,000 eucalyptus trees alone, in the vicinity of
the race track.
1900.
Early in the season improvements began to multiply in " Oceanpark " as
the growing settlement was now officially known, although it was in reality a
part of the city of Santa Monica and more properly " South Santa Monica."
The Santa Fe company astonished its tenants, who had erected cottages on
leased lots, by ordering them to vacate at once ; the unfortunate cottage owners
had to hustle to find new locations for their buildings. The company leveled
the ground and made some improvements ; but in August it was announced
that the entire South Santa Monica holdings of the Santa Fe company had been
purchased by Messrs. Hart and Fraser, of Los Angeles. The new proprietors
named the tract " Central Beach " and immediately began grading and putting
streets through it. The first street opened through and paved between the beach
and the railroad tracks was India, now Hill street. In a short time lots on the
ocean front were selling for $1,000, and lots on the side streets at from $300 up.
Building restrictions were put on the property, which included 185 lots, 25 by
100 feet in size, extending from Hart avenue on the north to Grand on the
south and between the beach and the railway tracks.
In February the Oceanpark Fire Company was organized with A. N.
Archer, president ; J. H. Hassinger, secretary and treasurer ; William Menzies,
foreman ; C. J. Marvin and J. Rudisill, assistants. A " bucket brigade " was
organized, later a hose cart and hose was procured. In 1902, Mr. William
Martin, owner of the Martin block, on the corner of Ash and Second streets,
gave the use of a part of a lot for a fire house and the board of city trustees
provided the lumber for a small building, and bought a fire bell.
Oceanpark now had her own water systems, fire company, school, churches
and business houses. Many of its residents were newcomers who knew little
about the past history of the place or about the " north side." It was quite
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 255
natural that they should think that they might better manage their own affairs
and pay their taxes for improvements in their own section. As a consequence,
it was not surprising that a movement for the division of the territory south
of Front street from " old " Santa Monica should arise. Petitions for the
division were duly drawn up and presented and then the people on both sides
began to discuss the question in all of its bearings. When the election came
on November I2th, 1900, to the surprise of the principal movers in the action
who, by the way, were all old settlers and were actuated perhaps more by
personal feeling in the matter than by any serious consideration for the good
of the community at large, the proposition was snowed under. The vote stood
341 against division and only 59 for it. Even the warmest advocates of division
were compelled to admit that they had been mistaken in the sentiment of the
people of South Santa Monica ; and the possibility of creating two towns out of
Santa Monica was forever settled by this decision.
1901.
The growth of " Ocean Park " as the district extending from Azure street,
now Hollister avenue, along the beach to the south beyond the city limits of
Santa Monica, had progressed by leaps and bounds since 1898. But the
development of 1901 and the two or three succeeding years threw all previous
records of beach development into the shade. Ocean Park, started as a gathering
place for the Y. M. C. A. and kindred societies ; a quiet colony of summer
homes, occupied by people of moderate means, for the most part, suddenly
became the most popular and fashionable beach resort in Southern California.
And with equally surprising suddenness it developed into a bustling business
town, having stores, hotels, banks and newspapers and all the necessary
commercial facilities for a community of several thousand inhabitants.
The extension of the electric line south of Hill street and the erection of
a power house south of the city limits were indications of the southward trend
of improvements. The pushing forward of this work, of course, was followed
by rapid settling up of the territory thus opened up. The electric line was
completed to a point one mile south of Second and Hill streets on April 3Oth.
In August it became known that the Los Angeles-Pacific had acquired a new
and more direct right of way between Los Angeles and Ocean Park. They
had purchased the old right of way abandoned by the Santa Fe Railroad com
pany, and begun the construction of a double track via Palms. This, with
the new cut-off by way of Rosedale cemetery, would considerably shorten the
time between the city and this beach.
Messrs. Kinney and Dudley had already extended their beach walk some
distance south of Pier avenue and had provided electric lights, water and sewer
256 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
system for this new district. The beautiful beach, the opportunity to build
almost within reach of the ocean spray, the convenient trolley service, and the
fine class of people who had already located here ; as well as the fishing,
bathing and amusements offered, attracted residents and visitors. While the
rapid increase in the value of property attracted investors, both little and big.
Many people who had leased or bought merely for a beach home during the
summer had found themselves unexpectedly enriched by the changed conditions,
and immediately re-invested their gains. Many capitalists were also attracted
by the chance to make quick money. By the first of March more than fifty lots
in the new Short Line Beach tract had been sold and a number of buildings
were under way.
One of the most important improvements of this year was the Club House
built just north of the golf links, laid out the year before. This building, 50 by
80 feet, with a ten-foot veranda below and a roof veranda was put up by
Messrs. Kinney and Dudley. Some $15,000 was spent on the building and the
improvements in the tennis courts, golf links and race course and the place was
made an ideal home for a country club. The Ocean Park Country Club was
organized with Messrs. Kinney, Dudley and H. M. Grindley as directors. They
at once planned a week's sports for August and in that month a successful tennis
tournament, and polo races and golf tournament attracted a large number of
visitors and participants.
In April. Messrs. Hart and Fraser reported that only three lots of the
Central Beach tract, put on the market in the fall, were left, and that $85,000
had been expended in buildings erected on this tract. Among those locating
here were Mr. G. A. Hart, Mr. A. R. Fraser, Judge R. B. Stevens, W. D.
Winston, J. R. Newberry, A. Lichtenberger, William Hammel, and other business
men of Los Angeles, many of whom built permanent homes here.
The Ocean Wave tract, south of Central Beach, was offered for sale in
March by Messrs. Kinney and Dudley and was all sold out in less than a month.
South Second street was paved and sidewalked during the year and several new
business blocks put up on Second street- — this still being the business center of
Ocean Park. Pier avenue was surveyed and graded from the railroad tracks
to the ocean front and the lots offered for sale. In October a two-story frame
building, with two store rooms below, was put up, the second building on this street
About July ist, it was announced that Abner Ross, a Los Angeles capitalist,
would build a seventy-room hotel on Pier avenue. This substantial two-story
building, which was long the principal hotel of Ocean Park, was erected in just
twenty-four days from the time work began. Early in August it was opened
to the public under the management of J. G. Holborow and wife, who furnished
it and gave it the name. This building was later known as the Metropole and
is now the Hotel Savoy. It was estimated that over 200 cottages were built
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 257
on the sand during the year, the building expenditures reaching $118,691,
excluding the hotel and the Casino; $18,50x3 was expended in improving the
water system, and at least $25,000 was paid out for improvements made by the
L. A. -P. railway.
1902.
But, rapid as was the pace set in 1901, the advance made in 1902 excelled it.
A change took place at the beginning of the year, which meant much in the
history of this section. This was the sale announced February I2th, of Mr.
Dudley's interests in the Kinney and Dudley property to Messrs. A. R. Fraser,
H. R. Gage and G. M. Jones ; Abbot Kinney retaining his half interest. This
sale included the beach from Azure street, now Fraser avenue, to a point 700
feet below the Country Club house, now Horizon avenue, and the club house
and grounds.
If such a thing were possible, new energy was given to the developments
along the ocean front by the new management. It was announced that the
wharf would be rebuilt, a bath house and pavilion built at Pier avenue, and the
old plank walk on the ocean front rebuilt. The entire tract was to be sewered
and the alley between the front and the tracks, now Speedway, would be
improved. But the most important move was the change of policy with regard
to leasing lots. It was announced that no more lots would be leased and that
leasers would be given until May ist, to purchase their lots or vacate. Here
after lots would only be sold with building restrictions which would put an end
to the building of cheap " beach cottages." Many of the lease holders purchased
their lots and removed the old buildings to put up modern cottages which would
yield an income on the increased valuation of the property. Many of those
who did this realized handsomely on the investment. To many, however, the
prices charged for lots and the building restrictions seemed prohibitive and the
cottages were removed to cheaper property. During 1902-03, it was a common
sight to find a cottage on wheels moving back from the ocean front to the hills,
under the escort of William Menzies.
In March, 1902, the Ocean Park bank was organized with T. H. Dudley,
Abbot Kinney, Martin Dudley and Plez James as stockholders. It opened for
business April 8th in a building on Second street ; but work was soon begun on
a brick and steel building on Pier avenue and before the end of the year the
new bank was occupying handsomely fitted quarters and had added a savings
department.
The previous year the old school house had proved inadequate and the
Baptist church was rented for the higher grades. The rapidly increasing school
population made a new building for the Ocean Park school imperative, and after
an enthusiastic public meeting on the South Side, followed by another public
17
258 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
discussion of the question on the North Side, the school trustees called for a
bond election to vote $12,000 for a suitable school house for Ocean Park. The
bonds were carried, practically without opposition ; the two old buildings were
disposed of and the handsome eight-room structure, now known as the Wash
ington school house, was built on the old location, the corner of Ash and Fourth
streets. Two additional lots were purchased for the grounds and the entire
building and grounds cost over $16,000.
The election of W. S. Vawter as city trustee to represent the South Side,
and the fact that T. H. Dudley was president of the board of city trustees,
assured this section of full representation in civic affairs and still further
obliterated the old feeling of estrangement between the two sections of the city.
The building boom continued. June I2th, the Los Angeles Saturday Post
writes thus of this beach :
" There are seven hundred cottages at Ocean Park. They are all tasteful
and many of them are pretentious. Ocean Park is not a place with a stiff,
ceremonious air. There is a hospitable individuality, a generous atmosphere,
in their architecture that shows as much as anything else that the good people
of Ocean Park are not divided into social cliques or factions."
During this year Pier avenue became the leading business street. Among
the business blocks of the year were the Rice and Kellogg block, of three
stores, with housekeeping rooms above ; a two-story building put up by Gillett
& Co.; the new bank building, occupying four lots and costing $10,000: a two-
story block erected by Abbot Kinney. The rapid rise in values is well repre
sented by Pier avenue property. In 1900, lots on this street sold for a few
dollars; in 1901, $500 would have been considered a high price for a lot; in
1902, twenty-five-foot lots sold for $40 per front foot; in 1903, a lot which
had been purchased for $30 per front foot, was sold for $85 per foot. In 1904,
C. J. Wilson sold a block on Pier avenue with a two-story frame building and
a lot of 54 feet frontage for $21,000, and it is stated that the property was then
yielding 10 per cent, on the investment.
The company spent several thousand dollars this year in improving the
sewer service. Twelve miles of new sidewalks were laid by the city and private
parties and many streets were graded. It is estimated that street improvements
reached about $20,000. On Saturday, November I5th, 1902, appeared the first
issue of the Ocean Park Reznew, with A. Bert Bynon as editor.
On August 2nd, the new line of the trolley road by way of Palms, was
opened, the event being celebrated by an excursion of the Jonathan Club of
Los Angeles, and distinguished citizens, who were entertained with a fish
dinner at the country club. The Ocean Park Country Club sent out elaborate
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 259
Invitations, announcing a polo match, tea, dinner, and reception, with speeches
and dancing, in honor of the occasion. The invitations read :
" The Los Angeles-Pacific Railway company will open its Short Line cut-off
from Los Angeles to Ocean Park, tomorrow, Saturday, August 2nd, 1902. And
in honor of this event the Los Angeles Country Club has arranged for a demon
stration that will mark the epoch as the most important in the history of Ocean
Park up to this date.
" The opening of this line of railway communication is recognized as of such
importance to the future welfare and prosperity of Ocean Park that the head
moulders of the present and future greatness of that noted beach resort appreciate
the necessity of this great proposed demonstration.
" And these head moulders of the present and future greatness are Messrs.
Fraser, Jones, Kinney and Gage, the proprietors of the Country Club, and it
is these gentlemen who extend a cordial invitation to participate in the exercises
and the reception of the Jonathan Club of Los Angeles and the other guests."
1903.
The new year showed no diminishniMit in building or in general improve
ment in the " sand district." Work was begun early in the year on the pavilion
at the foot of Pier avenue, which was to be the most complete pleasure resort
on the beach. \Yhen it was opened to the public in the spring, it at once
attracted the Sunday crowds. The question of granting a restaurant liquor
license for the pavilion greatly harassed many of the older residents of Ocean
Park, who had greatly prided themselves upon the high moral tone of their
community. The matter was discussed warmly and was made an issue in the
spring election which was hotly contested, the liquor question and the traction
franchises being the mooted points. The result of the election was not satisfac
tory to the " no-license " element who forced a special election, at which they
lost heavily in votes. And the liquor license was granted for the pavilion —
the first one ever granted in Ocean Park district.
The Traction matter was quite as important in its bearing on Ocean Park-
affairs. This company had been interested in a project to build a line to Santa
Monica Bay by Abbot Kinney, who was its representative in its negotiations
here. A right of way had been secured ; after a long fight which developed
much opposition, the necessary franchises were granted by the city of Santa
Monica and work was actively begun on a competing electric line which held
out hopes of a twenty-five cent fare. The new road was well under way when
the sale by Messrs. Fraser and Jones, of the Ocean Park right of way — the old
Santa Fe right of way — to Sherman and Clark of the Los Angeles-Pacific,
260 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
and the later sale to the Harriman interests, put an end to this prospect of
competition ; as the new road thus lost its terminals.
Several new tracts were opened up for settlement during the year. The
Ocean Villa Tract, east of the electric road and opposite the Country Club was
sold in half acre lots which were quickly subdivided and a new residence dis
trict grew up. In September, Ocean Park Villa Tract No. 2, 60 acres extend
ing from Ballona avenue to Eighth street was put on the market and made a
record as a quick seller. These ventures were so successful that E. J. Vawter
offered 60 lots for sale on the hill in the vicinity of Hill and Fourth streets, all
of which were soon disposed of. Pier avenue continued to hold its own as the
principal business street. A three-story brick block was erected by Maier and
Zobelin, and a new block designed especially to accommodate the postoffice was
built. July 23d the postoffice was moved from Second street to its new home
and several of the business houses on Second street followed it to the new loca
tion. Lots on the ocean front, near Pier avenue, sold this summer for $2,300
to $2,600. Marine avenue was opened up, paved and sidewalked this year and
Hart and Fraser avenues were " parked." The placing of the sidewalk in the
middle of a street, with gardens bordering it on either side was an innovation
which has proved very attractive in the beach districts, and has now been
adopted in many places, although Ocean Park claims it as original with her.
The beautiful home built for J. M. Davies, a ten-room house, complete in
every detail of artistic finish, and an equally handsome home for Thomas Fitz
gerald, now owned by Nat Goodwin, marked a new era in beach residences. The
selection of Ocean Park as a permanent home by such men as Frank Wiggins,
W. T. Gibbon, and many other prominent business men of Los Angeles, made
the place a suburban as well as a resort town.
The rapid growth of South Santa Monica and of the territory south of the
city limits naturally gave rise to much discussion as to the future government
of this prosperous young city. The attempt to divide the city of Santa Monica
had proved so impracticable that it was now proposed to incorporate a new town
to the south, with the hope that when the new town was fairly organized, the
Ocean Park district of Santa Monica might experience a change of sentiment
and cast its fortunes with the new corporation. The matter was fully discussed
in all of its bearings and in the fall the necessary steps were taken and the elec
tion called for February, 1904. On that date, the new town began its existence
and the name " Ocean Park " became the property of a district which had been
in existence less than eighteen months, leaving the postoffice of " Ocean Park "
within the bounds of Santa Monica, and creating endless confusion as to the
location of and the meaning of the name " Ocean Park.''
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 261
SOUTH SANTA MONICA 1904-07.
1904.
The dissolution of the Ocean Park Improvement Company, which had been
the controlling element in Ocean Park affairs, was announced February 3rd,
1904, and was an event of importance in South Santa Monica. By this arrange
ment, Mr. Kinney, who had owned a one-half interest in the company, sold to
his partners all of his interest in the property of the company, both lands and
buildings, between Navy and Kinney streets in Santa Monica, thus giving Fraser,
Jones and Gage the entire control of the Santa Monica holdings, including the
Pier avenue improvements. Mr. Kinney received in exchange all title to the
holdings of the company south of Navy street. As a result of this move, Mr.
Kinney planned Venice, while Messrs. Fraser and Jones devoted themselves to
the development of their Pier avenue interests. Another result was the raising
of prices for all lots belonging to the Improvement Company from $45 per front
foot to $60.
It had already been announced that the Los Angeles-Pacific had purchased
Mr. Kinney 's interests in the proposed electric line that was to have been built
through Ocean Park. They had also previously purchased the right of way
owned by Fraser, Jones and Gage, thus giving them additional lands and right
of way. The railroad company at once began making improvements which were
greatly appreciate.! by the residents of this district. The building of the plank
walk between their tracks was a great boon to people who had been compelled
to wade through deep sand to reach the cars. The erection of stations and
improvements of the trolley way gave the town a new street and the company
also graded and improved a tract east of the line and put it on the market.
In 1901 Captain Donahue brought a gasoline launch to Santa Monica which
was operated from the wharf at Pier avenue, carrying fishermen and pleasure
seekers on trips up and down the coast. This little craft had been the source of
much pleasure to beach residents and visitors and it was with regret that they
learned of her total wreck which occurred March 23rd, 1904, off the Short
Line beach.
June 3Oth the new Holborow, located in the handsome three-story brick put
up by Maier and Zobelin, was opened to the public. This was then the finest
hotel south of the Arcadia and was very popular.
1905.
In February, 1905, occurred one of the heaviest storms ever known on the
Santa Monica bay coast. This washed out a large section of the Pier avenue
wharf and later in the month another storm completed the wrecking of the pier.
E. J. YAWTER, JR.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 263
As a consequence, the outfall sewer of Santa Monica was badly wrecked and
the beginning of sewer troubles followed. Another storm in March carried away
700 feet of the wharf and destroyed a mile of the beach walk. According to the
'terms of the agreement made between the city and the company who built the
pier on the piles- intended for carrying the outfall, Messrs. Kinney and Ryan
were to keep the pier in repair for twenty years. The interest of Messrs. Kinney
and Ryan had now passed into the hands of the Ocean Park Improvement Com
pany. A dispute as to who should stand the expense of the repair resulted in
the sewer matter remaining unsettled. In the meantime a company was formed
to build a new pier and it was proposed also to build another pier from the foot
of Marine avenue. A permit for the Marine avenue pier was let to M. R. King,
and later the idea of the horseshoe pier developed. A seaside theater was opened
for the first time in the Pavilion at Pier avenue.
The First National Bank of Ocean Park was organized in April, with J. M.
Elliott, W. D. Longyear, E. J. Vawter, Jr., J. W. Lincoln, A. Eraser, C. H.
Mullen and E. J. Vawter, ST., as directors. E. J. Vawter, Sr., was president,
J. M. Elliott, vice-president; Thomas Meldrum, cashier. June ist, the Com
mercial State Bank opened for business, with Lon A. Pratt, president ; Warren
Gillelen, vice-president; J. W. Lawrence, cashier.
Considerable feeling was aroused by an attempt to remove the postoffice
from Pier avenue to Marine street and then make it the official office of the new
town. A postoffice inspector was called in to straighten out postoffice matters ;
but after a conference with all parties interested, it was finally decided that the
Ocean Park postoffice be left as it was and the new postoffice be named Venice.
On the completion of the Masonic Temple, a handsome three-story brick build
ing, located on Marine avenue, the postoffice was again changed, despite a vig
orous protest, to a handsomely fitted up room in this building. But this was
still within the limits of Santa Monica.
iSi@ifc
_> ^
C 'e.Cft.n liV^
BOARD OF EDUCATION, CITY OF SANTA MONICA. 1907.
CHAPTER VII.
PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.
SCHOOLS.
AS in every other American community, one of the first interests of the new
settlement of Santa Monica, in 1875, was to provide school advantages.
The first shack to house the men working on the wharf was put on the
ground in April, 1875 ; the first lots in the new town site were sold in July. On
November 3rd, the citizens of the town held a meeting in the dining-room of
the Hotel Santa Monica to discuss school matters and take steps to secure the
formation of a school district. As a result of this effort, the Santa Monica
School District was formed by the board of supervisors. It included within its
limits the San Vicente, Santa Monica and Malibu ranches, the tract of land
belonging to Mrs. Lucas, and a portion of the Ballona grant — a somewhat
extensive domain.
On December 3rd the first school election was held and John Freeman, L.
T. Fisher and J. W. Scott were chosen as trustees ; at the same time it was
reported that there were seventy-two children in the new district. An election
was called in February, 1876, to vote a tax for school purposes; but owing to
some irregularity of form it was postponed until March nth, when a special tax
of $5,000 was voted for a school-house, and Loren Heath was appointed as
assessor and collector of the same. The first assessment of the district shows a
valuation of $1,035,580. Jones and Baker had already donated two lots on Sixth
street as a site and during the summer a neat frame building, containing two
school-rooms below and a large room above was erected and ready for use in
the fall.
In the meantime the children had not lacked for educational opportunities.
November 8th, 1875, the " Santa Monica Academy," D. G. C. Baker, principal,
opened for its first term of twelve weeks, prepared to give courses " in all
branches, including the Fourth Reader and Hebrew," and " with accommoda
tions for a very few young ladies to board and lodge at reasonable rates." Mrs.
M. J. D. Baker was instructor in elocution and Miss Ida M. Atkinson taught
music and drawing. Thus every need of a full school curriculum was supplied.
The first school exhibition given in Santa Monica was presented by the pupils
of this school in the Presbyterian chapel, February Qth, 1876. The Outlook
also announces that the second term of Mrs. Frink's private school would com
mence on February 7th. March 4th, 1876, the first session of the public school
opened in the Presbyterian church, located on the corner of Third and Arizona,
the building still standing in the rear of the present church. Among the pupils
of this school were a number who have since been well known residents of Santa
266 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Monica — George, Henry and Eugene Boehme, Julia, May and George Suitsr
Mary Collins and Claude Sheckles. H. P. McCusick was the teacher and before
the end of the second month he had an enrollment of 77 pupils. The next fall
when school opened in the new school-house, September loth, Mr. McCusick
was assisted by Miss Lucy Whiten and the two lower rooms were used, while
the " big " room was useful as an assembly room and a meeting place for pub
lic occasions. Many happy memories are associated with this room in the minds-
of older residents of Santa Monica. One memorable occasion was an entertain
ment and dance held on the evening of December 3ist, 1881, the proceeds to be
used for the purchase of an organ for the school-house. The Los Angeles papers
announce that the affair was a great success and that the tableaux would have
been creditable to a first-class theater. It should certainly have been a well
rehearsed affair, for in a dispute over one of the rehearsals, the teacher, W. H.
P. Williams, an impetuous southerner, shot and seriously wounded one McDon
ald whom he thought to be interfering with his plans. Naturally the young pro
fessor was requested to resign, but the entertainment was carried out by his
successor, W. W. Seaman, who later became a well known state official. The
minutes of the school board for December 3Oth, 1881, state, " A Wilcox and
White organ was presented to the public school of Santa Monica, the money
for same having been raised by a series of public entertainments gotten up
through the instrumentality of Mr. M. R. Gaddy and others."
In 1877 the district showed an enrollment of 157 children, Mr. A. C.
Shafer was the principal and was assisted by Miss Yda Addis, whose name and
brilliant though erratic career are known to all older residents of Southern Cali
fornia. February I4th, 1878, a special tax for school purposes was voted. The
school continued with two teachers until 1884, when the upper room was fur
nished and three teachers employed. In August, 1887, more room for the schools
had become imperative and $5,000 bonds were voted and four rooms added to
the school building. Four teachers were now employed, with Elmer P. Rowell
as principal. Mr. Rowell was connected with the schools of Santa Monica for
four years and many advances were made under his able leadership. In 1888
the rapid increase in population made even the new accommodations inadequate
and a tax of $2,500 was voted to still further enlarge the school building, after
which six teachers were required.
In 1889, after a good deal of agitation, steps were taken to provide the
south side with a school. This was opened in a private house; but in 1888 lots
had been secured at the corner of Ash and Fourth streets and in 1890 a small
building erected. In 1891 another small building was put up in Garapatos can
yon. This section of the district has since been cut off from the Santa Monica
district. In 1894 a neat building was provided for the pupils resident in Santa
Monica canvon.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 267
In May, 1885, the first class graduated from the grammar grade depart
ment, under the county laws governing grammar grades. The Santa Monica
schools were counted as of the grammar grade until 1891, when the high school
was established, under a new state law, and opened its first year of work in
September, with Prof. Lerov D. Brown as principal. Prof. Brown was an able
educator and made a strong mark upon the character of the city schools. He
was later principal of the Los Angeles schools and his untimely death was a
sorrow to many who had enjoyed his instruction. The high school was opened
in the Sixth street building and the first class of five members, Roy Arthur Sul-
liger, Florence Corle Rubicam, George G. Bundy, Hilda H. Hasse and Delia
Sweetser, graduated in 1894.
For several years, beginning with 1889, Professor E. P. Rowell, Dr. A. W.
Plummer, Professor Brown and others conducted a very successful summer
institute in Santa Monica, for teachers and others desiring special instruction.
These institutes provided interesting and profitable classes and lectures, con
certs and instruction in music and many enjoyable social affairs grew out of
them. For several years they attracted a number of teachers and would-be
teachers to this place for the summer courses.
In 1893, two more rooms were added to the Sixth street building, and in
1895 another school room was added to the south side school. September 5th,
1897, bonds to the amount of $15,000 were voted for a high school building,
although in April of the same year a proposition to vote $12,000 for the same
purpose was lost, chiefly because it was felt that the sum was not enough to
build a suitable building on the lots already secured at Tenth and Oregon.
The contract for the building was let to H. X. Goetz and in June, 1898, the
building was completed and dedicated by holding the graduating exercise for
the year in it.
In 1902 $12,000 bonds were voted for a new building on the south side
and the next year an eight-room building, costing when complete about
$16,000, was ready for occupancy. The city was now growing so rapidly, both
by annexation and from within, that the school accommodations were felt to
be entirely inadequate. In 1905 $60,000 bonds were voted and plans were
made for three school houses, an eight-room building at Seventh and Michigan,
now known as the Garfield building ; a four-room school at Irwin avenue and
Twenty-second — the Grant, and a four-room building on Twentieth between
Oregon and Arizona. It was decided to construct all of these buildings of
brick and to make them complete in equipment. But the growth of the' school
population was still beyond the capacity of the accommodations and in 1906 it
was decided to replace the old Sixth street school, which had been added to
until little of the original building could be found, with a modern building.
268
HISTORY OF SANTA MOXICA BAY CITIES
In consequence the people were again called upon to bond themselves for school
purposes and the sum of $15,000 to complete the three buildings already under
way, was voted December 9th, 1905, and of $60,000 for the Sixth street school
and a four-room building in the new Palisade tract. The Sixth street school
was first occupied in the spring of 1907 and is the equal of any school building
in the country.
The Santa Monica schools are now fully equipped for effective service.
Fifty teachers are employed and the attendance for 1907-8 will surpass all
SIXTH STREET SCHOOL.
previous years. The number of children of school age in May, 1907, was
2,499. Departments of music and drawing, with supervising instructors are
maintained. Full courses in manual training and domestic science are given.
The school district now has nine buildings : The Lincoln — the High School —
located at Oregon and Tenth ; Jefferson, the old Sixth street school ; Washing
ton, Fourth street and Ashland avenue ; Garfield, Seventh street and Michigan
avenue; Grant, Irwin avenue and Twenty-second street; McKinley, Twentieth
street between Idaho and Montana ; Roosevelt, Sixth street between Idaho and
Montana ; Westgate and Canyon. The entire valuation of school property is
$194,000.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 269
Beside the public schools, the Academy of the Holy Names, under the care
of the Sisters, was established in 1899. The beautiful building occupied by this
school was dedicated February 22nd, 1901.
In 1906 the California Military Academy was established in Santa Monica,
in response to the desire of parents who wished to place their sons in a genuine
military academy. Its sessions were held in tents located in the park until
December 9th, when the school was transferred to the Arcadia Hotel building
and the hotel ceased to exist after serving the public for twenty years. The
school has a boarding and day department and prepares its pupils for college.
Ceftainly no more delightful and healthful location for such a school could
be found.
SCHOOL TRUSTEES OF SANTA MONICA.
1876-77— John Freeman, L. T. Fisher, J. W. Scott (clerk).
1877-78 — M. D. Johnson, J. W. Scott, George Boehme (clerk).
1878-79 — Loren Heath, J. W. Scott, George Boehme (clerk).
1879-80 — Loren Heath, George Boehme, W. S. Vawter (clerk).
1880-81— M. D. Johnson, Loren Heath, W. S. Vawter (clerk).
1 88 1 -82— George Giroux, W. R. Gadcly, W. S. Vawter (clerk).
1882-83— Mrs. L. B. Huie, J. W. Scott, M. R. Gaddy (clerk).
1883-84— Mrs. E. E. McLeoud, Mrs. Geo. B. Dexter, E. K. Chapin (clerk).
1884-85— Mrs. Geo. B. Dexter, Mrs. E. E. McLeoud, E. K. Chapin (clerk).
1885-86— Mrs. Geo. B. Dexter, Mrs. E. E. McLeoud, E. K. Chapin (clerk).
1886-87— F. H. Howard, E. J. Vawter, E. K. Chapin (clerk).
1887-88— W. O. Baxter. Geo. D. Pendleton, E. J. Vawter (clerk).
1888-89— W. O. Baxter, Geo. D. Pendleton, W. S. Vawter (clerk).
1889-90— Geo. D. Pendleton, John C. Morgan, W. S. Vawter (clerk).
1890-91— John C. Morgan, Dr. H. G. Cates, N. A. Roth (clerk).
1891-92— John C. Morgan, W. S. Vinyard, Dr. J. J. Place (clerk).
1892-93— John C. Morgan, R. R. Tanner, Dr. J. J. Place (clerk).
1893-94— Dr. J. J- Place, R. R. Tanner, Nathan Bundy (clerk).
1894-95— R. R. Tanner, R. P. Elliott, Nathan Bundy (clerk).
1895-96 — R. P. Elliott, Dr. J. J. Place, Nathan Bundy (clerk).
1896-97— R. P. Elliott, S. F. Carpenter, Fred H. Taft (clerk).
1897-98— R. P. Elliott, S. F. Carpenter, F. H. Taft (clerk).
1898-99— R. P. Elliott S. F. Carpenter, F. H. Taft (clerk).
1899-00— R. P. Elliott, S. F. Carpenter, D. G. Holt (clerk).
1900-01— S. F. Carpenter, D. G. Holt (clerk), F. K. Rindge.
1901-02—8. F. Carpenter, F. K. Rindge, D. G. Holt (clerk)
1902-03— S. F. Carpenter, F. K. Rindge, D. G. Holt (clerk).
1903-04 the change was made from a board of school trustees to ;i city
270
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
board of education, the first board under the re-organization being: S. F.
Carpenter, J. H. Hassinger, W. E. Devore, Dr. J. S. Hunt, J. H. Jackson.
This board held until 1906 when the present board, W. E. Devore, A. B. Clapp,
E. V. Dales, D. G. Holt, and W. S. Vawter was elected.
SUPERVISING PRINCIPALS OF SANTA MONICA SCHOOLS.
1876-77— H. P. McCusick.
1877— A. C. Shatter.
1878 — A. McPherson.
1878-79— Chas, H. Hall.
1879-80 — Miss Blanche L. Downs.
1880-81— Florella King.
1881— W. H. P. Williams.
1882-86— W. W. Seaman.
1886-90— E. P. Rowell.
1890-92 — Leroy D. Brown.
1893-00 — N. F. Smith.
1900-02 — C. I. D. Moore.
1902-07 — D. A. Eckert (superin
tendent) .
1907 — Horace Rebok (superinten
dent).
SCHOOL ENROLLMENT AND ATTENDANCE.
The following table shows the increase in school enrollment and attendance
in the Santa Monica school district since the year 1876:
Total
Enrollment.
Year.
1876 103
1876-1877 145
1877-1878 149
1878-1879 122
1879-1880 98
1880-1881 103
1881-1882 108
1882-1883 136
1883-1884 179
1884-1885 176
1885-1886 198
1886-1887 264
1887-1888 332
1888-1889 354
1889-1890 344
1890-1891 355
Av. Daily
Attendance.
66
64
80
65
60
54
49
72
87
114
118
129
187
220
212
222
Total
Enrollment.
Year.
1891-1892 392
1892-1893 496
1893-1894 544
1894-1895 614
1895-1896 669
1896-1897 739
1897-1898 682
1898-1899 699
1899-1900 668
1900-1901 660
1901-1902 755
1902-1903 973
1903-1904 1331
1904-1905 1352
1905-1906 1604
1906-1907 1641
Av. Daily
Attendance.
246
278
320
371
402
467
444
437
441
401
482
855
1035
II2I
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
271
PUBLIC LIBRARY.
The people who settled the town of Santa Monica were of the intelligent
and progressive class. They at once took steps to provide themselves with
schools and churches, and on March 1st, 1876, the Outlook announces: "A
Library Association is about to be formed in Santa Monica. All those inter-
•ested in this movement are requested to meet at the home of Mrs. Devere, on
Sixth street, on Thursday evening, when the plans will be explained."
The association was formed and met once a week on Saturday evenings,
when discussions were held and papers read. Books and periodicals were
contributed for the use of the members. At a meeting of the association held
April igth, 1878, Dr. J. S. Elliott was chosen president; George Boehme,
treasurer ; and M.
C. Olmstead, secre
tary and librarian.
The initiation fees
of the society were
$l.oo and the mem
bership $2.00 annu
ally, the money to
PUBLIC LIBRARY.
be devoted to the
purchase of books.
There were twenty-
five members, and
June 1 9th, 1876, the
first installment of
books for the Santa
Monica Library was
received, the list including a number of standard works. This was certainly a
good start toward a library. How long this society existed, or what became of
the books purchased for it, is not known.
The next movement for a library and a free reading room was made
about 1884 by some of the ladies of the town, who felt that the young people
needed such opportunities. Mrs. Asenath Lorimer, Miss Ella G. Dow, the
Misses Vawter, Miss Niles, and others were interested. A subscription list
was started, Col. R. S. Baker being the first contributor. Entertainments were
given for the fund and a room in the rear of Dr. Fred C. McKinnie's drug
store was secured for a reading room. The work was carried on for some time
by the women interested ; but after the organization of the Woman's Chris
tian Temperance Union, the reading room was turned over to their charge. It
was then removed to the building still occupied by the organization, being
located in the down-stairs room. Of their work the Outlook notes:
272 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
" A few unselfish ladies of the W. C. T. U. have been engaged for some
time in establishing a library and free reading room in Santa Monica. They
have labored faithfully and already there is gratifying evidence that their work
has not been in vain. Their free reading room is handsomely fitted up and
is one of the specially inviting places in Santa Monica. For a time they rented
a room but they finally concluded to purchase a lot and building and take the
chances of paying for it. In accordance with this plan they bought a 25-foot
lot and a two-story building on Third street for $2,500. Mr. John Steere, of
whom they made the purchase, has given the ladies their own time to pay for
the property, only exacting the interest. By renting a portion of the building,
they have reduced the rent to a small amount per month. On their shelves there
are about 400 volumes of well selected books and the tables of the pleasant
reading room are supplied with many popular magazines and papers. The
only charge is two bits a month for books taken from the room, while all are
allowed free use of everything within the library. The officers are Mrs. Jane
Austin, president; Mrs. D. B. Hubbell, vice-president, and Miss E. A. Dow,
secretary. A number of other ladies are taking an active interest in the
institution which deserves a most liberal support from our own residents, and
it is to be hoped that some benevolent visitor will come along some day and
determine to help this worthy undertaking. — Outlook, July 18, '88.
The ladies of Santa Monica did, indeed, labor hard to aid this work. They
gave dinners and suppers, socials and fairs, and worked harder to earn money
for this purpose than they would have dreamed of working to earn money for
themselves. One instance is told of an auction sale on the South Side, where
the W. C. T. U. ladies furnished the dinner. One of the owners of the tract,
Mr. Tom Lewis, offered to give a commission of $100 to the ladies if they
would sell the house and lot on the tract offered. After the dinner, one of the
ladies, Mrs. D. B. Hubbell, heard of the offer, rounded up a purchaser for the
property and made a sale. In course of time the $100 was paid over to her and
she asserts that the day on which she spent a hundred dollars all at once for
books for the Santa Monica library, was a red letter day in her life.
In 1888, the ladies of Santa Monica, under the direction of Mrs. Chapin,
Mrs. W. S. Vawter, and others, and with the aid of Mr. Tyler, prepared a
floral exhibit for the second Floral Festival held in the old Hazard Pavilion, in
Los Angeles. A full-rigged ship was seen floating on the ocean, the wharf
and the bluff were represented— all in the most exquisite of flowers. The
Santa Monica booth was unanimously declared the most beautiful among many
elaborate exhibits and received the first prise, $200. This after deducting
expenses the ladies turned over to the reading room fund.
But the purchase of the building and the maintenance of the reading room
and library proved too heavy a burden for the women to carry indefinitely. In
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 273
1889, Mr. Steere very generously returned the money which had been paid on
the building and canceled the sale. But upon his death, in 1892, he left this
building to the Women's Christian Temperance Union on condition that a free
reading room be maintained in it.
In 1890 the ladies who were interested in the library proposed to turn it
over to the city, provided the city would carry it on. The proposal of the
ladies who had gathered together a well selected library of 800 volumes was
as follows :
" It appearing to the members of this society that said society is unable to
pay the current expenses of the library belonging to them, and believing it will
be for its best interest to donate the said library to the town of Santa Monica,
a municipal organization duly incorporated and existing under the laws of this
state, to be carried on by the said town in accordance with the laws of this
state regulating public libraries, it is therefor
" Resolved, that this society does hereby give, donate and bequeath to said
town of Santa Monica all its said library, together with all appurtenances
belonging thereto, for the purpose of maintaining a public library in connection
with a free reading room.
" We, the undersigned members of the foregoing society, do hereby consent
to this disposition of the library.
" Signed by Laura E. Hubbell, president; J. A. Austin, secretary; Rebecca
B. Guilberson, I. D. Richmond (per Mrs. Richmond, his wife). Trustees,
Mamie E. Guilberson, Mrs. I. D. Richmond, Mrs. J. A. Dexter.
November I4th, 1890."
The town trustees accepted the gift and appointetd W. W. Webster, E. H.
Sweetser, H. A. Fisher, Abbot Kinney and L. T. Fisher as library trustees.
Two rooms were engaged in the bank building and December, 1890, Miss
Elfie Mosse was appointed librarian.
The first monthly report of the library after it was turned over to the city,
December, 1890, reads: "Report of Santa Monica Public Library, commencing
December 5th. The book list names 808 books ; the records show fifteen books
taken that have been out for several months. The list of subscribers during
month is twenty-eight — sixteen of them new on the list. Receipts for the
month, $7-25- Donation of a year's subscription of the following magazines by-
Mr. Abbot Kinney: Scribner's, Popular Science Monthly, The Forum, Harper's
Monthly, Puck and Judge. Mr. H. A. Winslow donated American Encyclo
pedia, 10 volumes ; Mr. T. A. Lewis, ' Memoirs of W. T. Sherman,' 2 volumes,
Elfie Mosse, librarian."
A subscription of twenty-five cents a month was still required and still at
the end of the first year the library was badly in need of funds. If it was to be
18
J. H. CLARK.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 275
carried on, something must be done and a subscription of $200 was made up
among citizens to help it out.
.March 1st, 1893, the library was made free to the public, the occasion
being celebrated- by an evening gathering, speeches, etc. The library now had
i, 800 volumes on its shelves. The growth was steadily maintained. In 1898
it became necessary to secure an additional room. On the completion of the
new city hall, it was removed March 2ist, 1903, to the room now occupied by
the council, which gave more commodious quarters.
But it had already been suggested that Santa Monica might possibly be
able to secure a Carnegie library, as so many other towns in Southern California
had done. Early in 1903 Mrs. J. H. Clark wrote to Mr. Carnegie, setting
forth the needs of Santa Monica and making a plea for consideration for this
city. After some correspondence she received the following letter:
ANDREW CARNEGIE,
2 East 91st St.,
New York.
13th April, 1903.
Mrs. J. H. Clark,
Santa Monica, Cal.
Madam: — Responding to your communication on behalf of Santa Monica. If the
city agree by resolution of Councils to maintain a Free Public Library at cost of not
less than Twelve Hundred and Fifty Dollars a year, and provide a suitable site for tne
building, Mr. Carnegie will be pleased to furnish Twelve Thousand Five Hundred
Dollars to erect a Free Public Library Building for Santa Monica.
Respectfully yours,
JAS. BERTRAM,
P. Secretary.
1 he city was already raising more than the required amount annually for
the support of the library. It only remained to secure a site. A subscription
was started and in a few weeks the sum of $3,982.50 had been raised. The
site on the corner of Oregon avenue and Fifth street was purchased.
January 1st, 1904, work on the new library was begun. July 23rd of the same
year saw the building completed and on the evening of August nth the library
was opened with a reception to the public.
The architecture of the building is Romanesque, with a handsome facade
and entrance. Within an octagonal delivery room is the central feature, all
the rooms being built around it and opening from it, in such a way that super
vision can be had over the whole from the central desk. A juvenile room with
suitable chairs and tables and a ladies' rest room add to the conveniences
for patrons.
In the regulations governing the library and in the library work, modern
methods have been adopted and improvements are constantly in progress. At
the present date the library contains 8,300 volumes and the home issue for the
year just ended was 39,738. Three days in the week there is a book exchange
from Pier avenue, the station being in the drug store of Clapp Brothers.
276 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
In the reading and reference rooms are currently received ninety-five
periodicals. Special work in the children's rooms, such as posters, stereoscope
system of views, etc., and also meeting the demand for books in connection
with the public school work, is made a feature of much interest.
The success of this library has been greatly due to the faithful and efficient
librarian, Miss Elfie Mosse, who has had it in charge since 1890. For four
teen years she was entirely without assistance except during the summer months.
Alone and unaided she has striven zealously to keep the Santa Monica library
fn the front rank and to keep pace with the growth of the city. All the latest
methods and improvements have been adopted through her efforts, and at the
National Librarians' Convention, which she attended, her work received high
commendation.
In August, 1902, Miss Grace Baxter was made assistant librarian and a
student's class was inaugurated.
The following table, giving the home use of books since the library came
under " city government," will be of interest :
January, 1891 to 1892 5»3°4
January, 1892 to 1893 7,5o8
January, 1893 to 1894 9,941
January, 1894 to 1905 1 5,106
January, 1905 to 1906 19,183
January, 1896 to 1897 18,805
January, 1897 to 1898 26,397
January, 1898 to 1899 25,029
January, 1899 to 1900 27,281
January, 1900 to 1901 21,533
January, 1901 to 1902 1 7,550
January, 1902 to 1903 21 ,260
January, 1903 to 1904 22,670
From January to June, 1004 (6 months) n,I34
From June 30, 1904, to June 30, 1905 26,575
From June 30, 1905, to June 30, 1906 35-°4I
From June 30, 1906, to June 30, 1907 39-738
SANTA MONICA LIBRARY SITE CASH CONTRIBUTORS.
Artesian Company $ 300.00 P.radshaw, Wm. G 25.00
Abbott & Elliott 5.00 Brand, L. C. (Guarantee
Aiken, H. C 25.00 Title) 40.00
Busier, A 25.00 Brooks, Miss 25.00
Bundy, Frank 25.00 fienson, A. B 5.00
Bundv, Guv 10.00 Bandina, Don Jaun 100.00
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
277
Charles, Chris 25.00
Chambers, W. H 25.00
Crosier, J. C 5.00
Cook, G. W 5.00
Clark, J. H 100.00
Carpenter, S. F 25.00
Conaway, C. W 10.00
Dudley, T. H 50.00
Dudley, Mrs. T. H 100.00
Dow, Miss Ellen - 25.00
Dike, Mrs. E. W 25.00
Dales Bros 25.00
Daley, F. B ';' 50.00
Duryea, Mrs. A 10.00
Dunston, H. G 10.00
Duncan, E 2.50
Edison Electric 100.00
Eaton, Fred 50.00
Edmond, Geo. W 25.00
Feather, M. D 5.00
Freeman, Ed 5.00
Gillis, W. T 25.00
Guidinger, A. M 25.00
Gardner, Mrs. M. W 25.00
Grimes, R. R 5.00
Ciilman and Dorner 25.00
Hunt, Dr. J- S 25.00
Hamilton, Dr. N. H 50.00
Hutton, Geo. H 50.00
Hull, W. I 25.00
Holt, D. G 25.00
Huhbell, Mrs. L. E 25.00
Hemingway, J. C 5.00
Jones, Roy 500.00
Tames, T. H 5.00
Jenkins. Rob 5.00
Keller. H. W 25.00
Kennedy, John 25.00
Knesel, J. S 25.00
Lindsey, C. M lo.'oo
Lindsey, Mrs. M. C 25.00
La Berge, J 5.00
Leonardt, Carl 20.00
Miller, R. M 25.00
Moody, T. A 25.00
Martin, Miss E 25.00
Montgomery, A. M 25.00
Mosse, Miss E 10.00
Miles, J. Euclid 10.00
Michel, H 15-00
Morris, Alf 10.00
Bassett and Nebeker 100.00
Nieman & Co 25.00
Rindge, F. H 5o°-O°
Robie, J. B 100.00
Sherman and Clark .'. '., 300.00
Sweetser, E. H. ... . . . 25.00
Sawtelle, W. E 25.00
Schrader, Carl 25.00
Saxman, W. H 5-OQ
Taft, F. H 25.00
Tanner, R. R 50.00
Tullis, O. G 25.00
Tegner, Chas 5-°°
Vawter, W. S '. .'.". 25.00
Vawter, E. J 20.00
Vawter, Misses 10.00
Volkman, M. F 10.00
Walkley, Mrs. Caroline ... 100.00
Webb and Vogel 25.00
Wilson, J. S 10.00
Wilson, E. A lo.oo
83 Subscribers.
$3,782.50
278
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
SANTA MONICA FIRE DEPARTMENT.
The first fire company in Santa Monica was the Crawford Hook and Ladder
Company, organized October 27th, 1875, with ]. C. Morgan, president ; S. B.
Adams, secretary; W. Beach, treasurer; Harry DuPuy, foreman: John Mott,
first assistant ; Johnny Doyle, second assistant. Their outfitting was very simple,
being buckets and axes, but they were enthusiastic and on occasions made a
brave fight with their buckets. One of the most serious fires with which they
had to contend occurred on July igth, 1876, when the " Club House " was set on
fire by an incendiary for the purpose of rob
bery, the thieves getting away with $850
from the bar during the excitement. This fire
company was an important factor in the social
life during early days, as they had their
annual balls and benefits of various sorts.
The organization died out, however, and for
some years the town was without a regular
fire department of any sort. Everybody
^^ grabbed a bucket and ran when an alarm
Ftlttt I ||. J- was given.
No other fire company was organized
here until .March 22nd, 1889. when Santa
Monica Plose, Hook and Ladder Company
was formed with forty-six members, many of
whom were leading business men of the city.
" P>ob " Eckert. who had been a pioneer fire
man in Los Angeles, was the first foreman
The first equipment at this time consisted cf
a four-wheel hose cart and 1,000 feet of hose,
with ladders, axes, etc. Hydrants had been
been provided and the old engine house, back of the bank building on Oregon
avenue, had been built in 1888. The first officers of the company were Robert
Eckert, foreman ; William Jackson, first assistant foreman ; George P>. Dexter,
second assistant foreman ; Fred C. McKinney, secretary, and A. G. Smith,
treasurer. In 1890, George B. Dexter was made foreman, a position which he
held continuously until 1903 when the department was organized under the new
city administration.
In 1890 a two-wheel cart and a hook and ladder wagon were added to the
equipment. The two carts with 2,000 feet of hose made it a very heavy task
for the firemen to pull the apparatus to a fire, especially when they had to plough
through a mile or two of sand or dust to reach South Santa Monica. Yet for
FIRE HOTSE, DEPT. -NO
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 279
ten years the firemen were obliged to meet these conditions, added to which was
often, perhaps usually, an inadequate supply of water, or a pressure too weak
to be effectual. This company was volunteer and received no compensation for
their services, except such funds as were raised in various ways through the
efforts of the firemen or by contribution.
During that time the fire department had to cope with many exciting blazes.
One of the most serious was the Santa Monica Hotel which was burned in 1889.
Another, which many will remember, was the burning of the large livery stable
belonging to William Flores when several horses and a large amount of hay
was lost. The destruction of the old Neptune Gardens, in 1893, was a pictur
esque fire ; in 1895 the burning of the St. James Hotel caused a heavy loss and
some narrow escapes ; the fire department by good work saved the adjoining
buildings, although they were too late to save even the furnishings of the hotel.
In 1899, the Casino building on Third street was destroyed by fire.
In 1900 the board of trustees after careful consideration purchased a new
combination hose wagon and chemical engine and also a team of horses. Mr.
A. J. Myers was installed as driver. The engine house was rebuilt, a new
fire bell had been put in place and an electrical fire alarm system had been
installed in 1896. Mr. W. I. Hull served as president of the company for
fifteen years 1892 to 1907. The present officers are: C. J. Marvin, chief; E.
P. Xittinger, assistant chief. The board of fire commissioners is made up of
Mayor Dudley, president ; A. N. Archer and H. G. Dunston.
In 1906 steps were taken to provide the fire department with suitable
quarters, the old fire house having become entirely unsuited to its needs. At
a bond election held in 1906, bonds were voted for building two fire houses, one
on city property rear of the city hall, one on Surf and Lake streets. These
handsome buildings, fitted with all modern conveniences, were turned over to
the city in the spring of 1907.
A volunteer fire department was organized in Ocean Park February 3rd,
1900, with an enrollment of eighteen members, its officers being A. N. Archer,
president; Wm. H. Menzies, foreman; C. J. Marvin, assistant foreman; J. H.
Hassinger, secretary and treasurer ; E. Rudisill, second assistant foreman. The
city trustees turned over to this company the old four-wheeled cart and 600
feet of hose, and furnished lumber to put up a small building which was erected
on private property by voluntary labor and subscription. This company was
increased to thirty members and did efficient service many times, although much
hampered by lack of water pressure. The present fire house is fully equipped.
NEWSPAPERS.
The newspaper history of Santa Monica is practically the history of the
Santa Monica Outlook. The first number of this paper was issued October
D. G. HOLT.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 281
I3th, 1875, with L. T. Fisher as editor. Outside of the Los Angeles Express,
started in 1871, and the Herald, first published in 1873, it is the oldest newspaper
in the county and one of the oldest papers in Southern California.
The editor had published a paper at San Pedro before locating in the then
embryo city of Santa Monica. His first number was a four-page, seven-column
sheet, well filled with news and advertisements. The office of the Outlook at
this time was on Third street, between Arizona and .Nevada, the property now
known as the General Sargeant place. The editor rejoices, in his early numbers,
in the fact that he — for the first time in his life — owns his own home, and in
the rapid growth of his trees and shrubbery. The magnificent trees on this
place still bear mute testimony to Mr. Fisher's energy.
The Outlook boosted Santa Monica manfully during those early years of
existence. The editor was convinced that the progress of Santa Monica, the
completion of the Los Angeles and Independence road and the supremacy of
Santa Monica as a commercial port, were the most important subjects to
himself and his readers and he wrote editorials on these which were masterpieces
in their way. April 5th. 1876, he published the first "special edition" of the
Outlook, reviewing the advance made during the six months' existence of the
paper.
When the shadow of coming disaster began to loom up, Mr. Fisher fought
the " Southern Pacific monopoly " bravely, until the sale of the Independence
road to the Southern Pacific company was finally confirmed. Then he yielded
as bravely as he had fought and announced : " We should accept the situation
as we find it and make the best of it. If we can't stem the current, the next
best thing is to float as gracefully as possible with it." During 1877, H. A.
Downer bought an interest in the paper, but soon retired and Mr. Fisher con
tinued the paper until after the abandonment of the wharf by the S. P.
December igth, 1878, he announces that the next issue will be omitted, as the
week is a holiday. The next issue did not appear until January 5th, 1887.
During 1886, after the wave of activity and prosperity had again struck
Santa Monica, E. A. Fay started a weekly paper known as The Wave. When
L. T. Fisher returned and began the publication of the Outlook again, the Wave
soon vanished from the field and the Outlook remained the newspaper of the
town. In all the rapid advancement of that boom period, the Outlook led the
procession. Mr. Fisher put up a strong fight for the new wharf, which he
believed would make Santa Monica a shipping port; for sewers and municipal
improvements ; for the location of the harbor at Santa Monica, and for small
farms, good roads and tree planting. His paper was always strictly non-
partisan, except for one number in September, 1888, when it was proposed to
start a new paper in Santa Monica, the Review, to be Republican in pol
icy. Then the Outlook announces that it will support the Democratic
282 HISTORY OF SANTA .MONICA BAY CITIES
ticket — Cleveland and Thurman. But the new paper failed to materialize and"
the Outlook continued to follow its old policy which is outlined as: "The
Outlook is doing its best — and is doing it in its own way. Our chief desire-
is to advance Santa Monica in the line which will exemplify the good old
democratic doctrine, 'The greatest good to the greatest number.' '
In March, 1891, Mr. Fisher sold the Outlook to W. S. Rogers and Eugene
Day ; but in September of the same year Mr. Day retired and Mr. Fisher again
assumed editorial control of the paper. Mr. Fisher retained his interest in the
paper until October, 1894, when he sold out to E. B. Woodworth. But before
his final retirement he saw his long desired dream of a commercial wharf
realized and during 1893 he published very full and exultant accounts of the
building and business of the long wharf and Port Los Angeles, making predic
tions of future commercial importance for Santa Monica, which time has not
yet verified.
Mr. Woodworth remained sole proprietor of the paper until October, 1895,
when Robert C. Gillis purchased half interest in the paper. In February, 1896,
Mr. Gillis became sole proprietor of the Outlook; in April, D. G. Holt joined"
Mr. Gillis in the publication of the Outlook. Since that date Mr. Holt has
contiued as editor and publisher of the paper.
On Monday, June 8th, 1896, appeared the first number of the Santa Monica
Evening Outlook, a four-page, five-column daily. It continued in this forrrr
until November, 1891, when it was enlarged to six columns. June i4th, 1902,
the paper was doubled in size, becoming eight pages.
The Santa Monica Outlook has always been a clean, clear-cut exponent
of the interest of its home city. This is the object of its existence although
the interests of the county and the state' are not neglected. In 1896 Messrs.
Woodworth and Barrackman began the publication of the Southern Signal,
which later became the Signal, a weekly and daily paper. In 1897, Eugene
Day was editor and proprietor. The paper continued to exist until May, 1898,
when it passed out of existence finally.
POSTOFFICE.
The first postoffice in Santa Monica was located in a building still standing
on the east side of Second street, near Colorado. The first postmaster was W.
H. Williams, who held the office until his death in January, 1877. He was
succeeded by J. M. Rogers. During September, 1877, the office was made a
money-order office. In 1880, M. B. Boyce was appointed postmaster and held
the office until 1886, when he was succeeded by Miss Maggie Finn. The build
ing between the Giroux and Rapp buildings on Second street was then used
as the office. In February, 1890, W. S. Vawter received the appointment, and
assumed the office April ist. 1890. He removed it to the new bank building
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA MAY CITIES 283
on Third street and established it in handsomely fitted up quarters, with J. S.
Summerfield as acting deputy. In 1893 Mr. Yawter resigned to be succeeded
by I. C. Steele. During his administration the office was located in the Gates
block. In May. 1898, George B. Dexter was appointed, to be succeeded in April,
1902, by the present incumbent, K. B. Summerfield.
In July, 1888. the office was raised to the third class. In 1899 the Ocean
Park postoffice was established, with L. B. Osborne as postmaster, this office
being in Santa Monica also. February lyth, 1900, the electric postal service
was inaugurated, which gave much better service than had before been enjoyed.
The steady growth of the postal business in both postoffices has long since en
titled the city to postal delivery ; but the fact of there being two separate offices
has stood in the way of the completion of arrangements, although free delivery
lias been promised for some time. The increased business of the Santa Monica
office led to a demand for increased room and facilities and in 1907 a building
was erected especially to accommodate the postoffice and has been equipped with
every convenience for the postoffice force and for the public.
BOARD OF TRADE — CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.
December 6th, 1888, the citizens of Santa Monica, after some preliminary
discussion, organized a Board of Trade, selecting Mr. M. R. Gaddy as president
and J. J. Carrillo as secretary. After a general •discussion as to the needs of
the community and what could be done to aid in building up the place, a com
mittee of six was appointed to take up the matter of securing a wharf — that
being regarded as the most important improvement that could be made at this
time. During the year the Board met rather irregularly and discussed many
plans for the wharf, for a boulevard to Los Angeles and for various possible
advance moves. In 1889, E. J. Vawter was elected president, J. J. Carrillo
retaining the secretaryship. In 1890, M. R. Gaddy was again president. In
February, 1890, the Board of Trade passed a resolution declaring that Santa
Monica was the most advantageous location for a harbor and requesting Repre
sentative Vandever to use his influence towards securing an appropriation for
that purpose. This Board of Trade continued to exist and to hold semi-
occasional meetings until March, 1895, when it became a Chamber of Commerce,
duly incorporated for the sum of $10,000. The incorporators were : R. F. Jones,
F. L. Simons, T. H. Wells, M. H. Kimball, Walter G. Schee, J. J. Carrillo,
Roy Jones, E. B. Woodworth, N. A. Roth, W. T. Gillis. H. W. Keller.
The old members of the Board of Trade were eligible to membership and a
campaign for new membership was made. The meeting at which the re-organi
zation was effected passed resolutions thanking Hon. J. J. Carillo for " faithful
and efficient official service during the seven years last past, all of which time
he has been Secretary of the Board." The president of the new Chamber of
Commerce was Robert F. Jones : first vice-president. F. L. Simons ; second-vice-
284 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
president, H. W. Keller; treasurer, M. H. Kimball. The new organization laid
out a broad scheme of work ; twelve different committees were appointed
to deal with municipal improvements and affairs. One of the first matters
taken up was the planning of a float for La Fiesta. Another topic which
absorbed much attention and was exhaustively handled by a committee con
sisting of Roy Jones and H. W. Keller, was that of securing a sewer system.
They engaged an engineer and had careful estimates and plans made,
which were later adopted by the city council. When the Chamber of Com
merce asked the Board of Trustees to call an election to vote on sewer bonds,
the Board declined, fearing that the issue would not carry. The Chamber of
Commerce then held a " straw election." which was carried out with all the
completeness of a genuine election and the bonds were carried by a handsome
majority. As a result a bond election was called by the city and $40,000 bonds
were voted for sewers.
A road to Calabasas was another subject which received attention
and which was successfully carried out, largely owing to the work of Mr. J.
J. Carillo. Of course the Chamber of Commerce took every opportunity to
advance Santa Monica's interests in the harbor fight, then on, and some very
interesting meetings were held in connection with this matter. The Chamber
of Commerce raised a fund to send Mr. John W. Mitchell to Washington as
their representative.
The enthusiasm of the Chamber of Commerce seems to have worn itself
out in 1898. At any rate in December of that year it was proposed to organize
an " Improvement Club " which it was believed would eventually make the town
doubly a paradise. Frank A. Miller, then mine host of the Arcadia, was one
of the moving spirits in this organization and it started out with energetic —
talk. J. J. Davis was president ; F. B. McComas, vice-president ; F. H. Taft,
secretary ; Dr. P. S. Lindsey, treasurer. The executive committee included
F. A. Miller, Wr. S. Vawter, N. A. Roth, Roy Jones, Abbot Kinney, A. Mooser,
A. W. McPherson, E. P. Clark, T. H. Dudley, F. H. Rindge, L. B. Osborne.
The Club made a vigorous, although unsuccessful, campaign to secure lower
fares to Los Angeles. It also took up the matter of liquor licenses, recom
mending that only six saloon licenses be issued and that the license be raised to
$600. The Improvement Club did some efficient work in arousing public opinion
of the saloon situation, and for three or four months the Outlook contains long
reports of its meetings — then apparently the Improvement Club went the way
of the Board of Trade and Chamber of Commerce.
The Outlook of September 6th, 1901, announces: "Santa Monica is well
on the road looking to an efficient organization of business men and other repre
sentative citizens. The ball was started rolling last evening when a largely
attended meeting was held in the town hall for the purpose of organizing a
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 285
Board of Trade." The organization was completed on September 24th when A.
Mooser was elected president ; W. I. Hull, vice-president ; Fred H. Taft,
secretary; W. Lee Chambers, treasurer; O. G. Tullis, J. H. Jackson, B. Sues,
George D. Snyder and A. Montgomery, were the executive committee. The
question of bonds for civic improvement; of a sanitarium, and various subjects
of public interest were brought before the public by the efforts of the Board of
Trade ; but it seems soon to have lost its grip.
July gth, 1903, the ever hopeful scribe of the Outlook writes : " It would
seem that the business men of Santa Monica have at last awakened to the
necessity of doing something in the way of raising the standard of the amuse
ments, improvements, etc., of this town, and that they mean to stay awake."
A large and " enthusiastic " meeting of the business men was held to discuss
the situation and it was agreed by all that something must be done at once, or
Santa Monica would lose her prestige as a summer resort entirely. As many
of those present had been members of the old Chamber of Commerce, it was
decided to revive that organization. The officers of this renewed Chamber of
Commerce were : Robert F. Jones, president ; W. I. Hull, first vice-president ;
R. Fogel, second vice-president ; Frank W. Vogel, treasurer. A committee to
secure amusements and music for the summer season was appointed and secured
funds for band concerts during the season. It also arranged for dances and
various attractions on the beach, but this seems to have been the extent of their
efforts and nothing more is heard of the organization.
The next organizations to " improve " the city of Santa Monica was the
Municipal League. This was formed May i8th, 1904, with Robert F. Jones
as presiding officer; Dr. Rathbone, vice-president; D. G. Holt, secretary; A.
Mooser, treasurer. It proposed among other things, to prepare a pamphlet
setting forth the advantages of Santa Monica, for distribution ; also to prepare
an exhibit for the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, but the only real
accomplishment seems to have been a Fourth of July celebration, and the
securing of a band to play during the summer season.
June ist, 1905, the Santa Monica Municipal League changed its name to
become the Santa Monica Board of Trade, with W. I. Hull, president ; R.
Fogel, vice-president ; J. Addison Smith, secretary, and A. Mooser, treasurer.
This organization has proved vital and has been an important factor in the
rapid progress of the past two years. Among some of the achievements of
the first year's real work were the issuing of 20,000 copies of a neat booklet
advertising Santa Monica; the publishing of an advertisement of Santa Monica
in the Pacific Monthly for six months ; efficient aid in the securing of annexation
of territory to the city, and in securing better lighting and other improvements
for the municipality. At the second annual meeting, August loth, 1906, W. I.
286 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
Hull was again elected president, and J. Addison Smith, secretary ; C. D. Middle-
kauff was treasurer, and R. Fogle, vice-president.
Much valuable work for the good of Santa Monica was accomplished
during the new year of 1906-07. One of the most important moves was the
effort made to secure free mail delivery and the promise finally secured that
such delivery would be provided for as soon as arrangements could be com
pleted. Attention of the department was also drawn to the inadequate accom
modations furnished the Santa Monica postoffice and the result has been the
securing of new and ample quarters. Another important step was the action
of the board, in recommending that Santa Monica merchants withdraw their
business from the L. A. P. road until that company granted a five-cent fare
within the city limits. Largely through the action of this body, the fine system
of lighting Ocean avenue was adopted. But the most important work of the
organization was in connection with the sewer problem. It secured and pre
sented the plan of disposal which has finally been adopted and which it is
confidently believed will settle for all time this troublesome subject which has
disturbed the peace of mind of the community .for many years. At the third
annual meeting held in October, 1907, Mr. Hull declined to be re-elected,
and J. J. Seymour was chosen as president, R. Fogel was elected vice-president,
and W. K. Cowan, treasurer.
CITY OFFICIALS.
1886.— Board of trustees, J. W. Scott, W. S. Vawter, A. E. Ladd, John
Steere, Dr. E. C. Folsom ; clerk, Fred C. McKinnie ; John Steere, president :
treasurer, Col. E. K. Chapin ; marshal, Hamilton Bagg, succeeded by Michael
Noon.
1888. — Board of trustees, T. A. Lewis, J. J. Carrillo, Thomas Rhodes, were
elected, Dr. E. C. Folsom and W. S. Vawter held over, Dr. Folsom was presi
dent of the board. Rhodes soon resigned and E. J. Vawter took his place.
Fred McKinnie, clerk; Col. E. K. Chapin, treasurer; attorney, J. C. Morgan.
1890.— J. L. Allen, John Steere, J. J. Carrillo, T. A. Lewis and E. J.
Vawter were trustees, with J. J. Carrillo president of the board ; Emmet Pollard.
Clerk ; Col. Chapin, treasurer ; M. K. Barretto, marshal ; attorney, J. C. Morgan.
1892.— J. J. Carrillo, E. J. Vawter. R. R. Harris. T. A. Lewis. H. C.
Beville, J. J. Carrillo being president of the board ; clerk, C. S. Dales ; treasurer.
George Boehme ; marshal, M. K. Baretto ; city attorney, R. R. Tanner.
1894.— Robert F. Jones, X. A. Roth. J. J. Carrillo, T. L. Lewis and E.
J. Vawter were trustees, J. J. Carrillo being president of the board ; clerk, C. S.
Dales : treasurer, George Boehme : marshal, M. K. Barretto ; attorney, R.
R. Tanner; library trustees, H. A. \Yinslow, O. G. Tullis, H. S. DeVan, D. L.
Bancroft, H. C. Wevse.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 287
1896. — Board of trustees, Robert F. Jones, J. J. Carrillo, R. C. Gillis, Moses
Hostetter, N. A. Roth, Jones being president; clerk, C. S. Dales; treasurer, E.
W. Boehme ; marshal, George B. Dexter ; attorney, R. R. Tanner ; library
trustees, Dr. P. S. Lindsey, Fred H. Taft, J. Walter Gray, T. H. Wells, William
.Stevenson.
1898. — Board of trustees, Robert F. Jones, N. A. Roth, J. J. Carrillo, Moses
Hostetter, R. C. Gillis, R. F. Jones was president; clerk, J. C. Steele; treasurer,
E. W. Boehme; marshal, M. K. Barretto; library trustees, S. D. Belt, J. Walter
Gray, P. S. Lindsey, Fred H. Taft, T. H. Wells
1900. — Board of trustees, Robert F. Jones, C. H. Sammis, J. C. Morgan,
T. H. Dudley, N. R. Folsom ; clerk, John B. Proctor ; treasurer, E. W. Boehme ;
marshal, M. K. Barretto; library trustees, J. C. Hemingway, P. S. Lindsey, C.
I. D. Moore. Fred H. Taft, T. H, Wells.
1902.— Board of trustees, T. H. Dudley, W. S. Vawter, J. C. Steele, C. H.
.Sammis, J. C. Morgan, T. H. Dudley serving as president ; clerk, J. C. Heming
way ; treasurer, E. W. Boehme ; marshal, M. K. Barretto ; attorney, Fred H. Taft.
1903.— First election under charter. Council, T. H. Dudley, H. X. Goetz,
A. F. Johnston, J. C. Steele, W. S. Vawter ; clerk, J. C. Hemingway ; treasurer,
Frank W. Vogel ; assessor, C. S. Dales; recorder, A. M. Guidinger; marshal,
M. K. Baretto; school board, W. E. Devore, J. H. Hassinger, Dr. J. S. Hunt,
J. S. H. Jackson, S. F Carpenter,
1906. — Mayor, T H. Dudley. Members of city council — First ward, G. D.
Snyder; Second ward, W. A. Armstrong; Third ward, Abe S. Reel; Fourth
ward, Alf Morris; Fifth ward, H. L. Coff man ; Sixth ward, J. Euclid Miles;
Seventh ward, Roscoe H. Dow. President of council, Alf Morris; city clerk,
J. C. Hemingway ; treasurer and tax collector, Ralph Bane ; assessor, C. S.
Dales ; attorney, S. W. Odell ; engineer, Thomas H. James ; street superin
tendent, H. L. Johnson; building superintendent, H. L. Mitchell; police judge,
J. J. Carrillo; chief of police, M. K. Barretto; chief of fire department, C. J.
Marvin : health officer, Dr. W. H. Parker ; superintendent of schools, Horace
M. Rebok. Board of education, W. E. Devore, president ; A. B. Clapp, E. V.
Dales, D. G. Holt, W. S Vawter ; board of library trustees, G. A. Lonsberry,
president; Lewis E. Bradt, A. M. Jamison, C. M. Lindsey, John Morton.
POPULATION OF SANTA MONICA.
United States census 1880 417
United States census 1890 1.580
LTnited States census 1900 3.°57
Census taken by city 1905 7,028
CHAPTER VIII.
CHURCHES AXD SOCIETIES.
METHODIST CHURCH.
THE oldest record of the Methodist church of Santa Monica reads :
" Minutes of the First Quarterly Conference for Santa Monica, held Oc
tober 26th, 1875, at the residence of D. G. C. Baker. The presiding elder,
A. M. Hough, in the chair. The session was opened with prayer by the presiding
elder. On motion Rev. J. D. Crum was appointed secretary. Organization :
The following named persons, members of the Methodist Episcopal church,
being present, proceeded to organize a society : J. D. D. Crum, pastor ; O. A.
Snow, local preacher ; D. G. C. Baker, A. Dutton, M. J. D. Baker, Eliza Corey,
Ida May Atkinson, Margaret Atkinson, Minnie Atkinson and Mary A. Crum.
Abner Dutton was appointed class leader. Stewards: D. G. C. Baker, O. A.
Snow and Margaret Atkinson. D. G. C. Baker, recording secretary. Trustees:
O. A. Snow, R. M. Widney, Samuel Atkinson. D. G. C. Baker and J. D. Crum.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 289
It was resolved that the trustees be instructed to incorporate and secure lots
from the Santa Monica Land Company and erect a church building thereon.
Margaret Atkinson and Mrs. M. J. D. Baker were appointed a committee to
secure subscriptions to aid in the erection of a church."
The Reverend Crum preached for the first time in Santa Monica, October
I5th, 1875, m an upper room of the buildng, then occupied as a hardware
store, on the corner of Oregon and Fifth street. On October 29th Rev. Hough
preached. The society continued to use this room until January i3th, 1876,
when the pastor gave notice that there would be no service on the next Sabbath,
but that he hoped they would worship in a building of their own on the second
Sunday. And this was done. The Santa Monica Land -Company donated two
lots for the use of the church on the corner of Sixth street and Arizona avenue ;
the people of the little town, still largely a tent city, donated money and labor.
Rev. A. M. Hough and R. M. Widney of Los Angeles subscribed liberally, and
the pastor, being of the long line of Methodist elders who were able to work
with hands as well as with brain and heart, himself labored with carpenter's
tools. The church when completed, represented a value, including lots of
$1,361.66. This building, after being removed to the corner of Fourth and
Arizona, enlarged several times, was finally removed to South Santa Monica
to house the new M. E. church there.
This building was dedicated, free from debt, on February 3rd, 1776. Rev.
Crum was pastor of the church most of the time until 1878-79. He came of
a family of ministers, his grandfather having been one of the founders of the
United Brethren church and having had nine grandsons who entered the Method
ist ministry. He had spent fifteen years in the Southern Illinois conference
before coming to this state, where his first charge was the Santa Monica church,
which he so ably led under many discouragements. It is of record that for his
first year of labor here he received $230, and his salary in the subsequent years
was pitifully inadequate.
Rev. Crum was succeeded by Rev. S. S. Russell, who only remained a
year, and then for three years the church was pastorless and practically dis
organized. A pastor was sent here in 1883-4, Rev. J. B. Howard, who found
but three resident members of the church. He nevertheless succeeded in
gathering a number of new members and strengthened the church by changing
the location. The lots on Sixth street were sold and the present location on
Fourth street and Arizona avenue was purchased and the building removed.
The church continued to gain slowly under various pastors until 1890,
when a serious disagreement occurred between the pastor, the official board
and the membership, and as a result thirty-one out of the fifty-three members
withdrew and formed the Prohibition Congregational church. The blow was a
severe one and the church did not recover its strength for two or three years.
19
290 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
In 1892 Mr. and Mrs. F. H. Rindge became members of the church and rendered
much assistance to it. Rev. Wm. Stevenson was pastor, and under his minis
trations the church was doubled in membership and began an advance move
which has since continued. The Epworth League was formed this year. Dr.
Stevenson remained as pastor of the church until 1897 and was then given
a farewell reception which expressed somewhat the honor and love which he
had inspired, not only in the church, but among the citizens of the town
generally.
In June, 1895, it was announced that Frederick H. Rindge proposed to
build a new- church building, free of all cost to the church, provided it would
agree to meet the pastor's salary and all incidental expenses. In consequence
on August i3th, 1895, ground was broken for this building and on the first
Sabbath in 1896, the most beautiful Methodist church building in Southern
California was dedicated.
In 1897-98 Rev. R. C. Wuestenberg was pastor and the membership was
increased to 150, while the Sunday school numbered from 250-270. In July,
1898, it was voted to remove the old church to South Santa Monica, where a
mission was holding service in the old Santa Fe depot. But after some agitation
the action was not taken. In August, 1899, a church was organized, then
known as South Santa Monica M. E. church, with Rev. F. G. H. Stevens as
pastor, the mission having been served by Rev. Robert Fisher. In December,
the old church was donated to the new organization and was moved to Ocean
Park. A new parsonage was erected on the site of the old parsonage.
Rev. C. T. Wilson and Rev. T. H. Woodward served as pastors and Rev.
J. C. Healy served during 1901 to 1903. During his term the parsonage was
completed, a neat cottage which was a decided addition to the advantages of
the church. In 1903 came Rev. F. G. H. Stevens, who still remains — one of
the ablest and best beloved of the many good men who have served this church.
Now, in 1907, the church has a membership of 240, while the Sunday
school reaches 350. So rapid has been the growth of the church and congre
gations that the church of ten years ago is inadequate and an addition which
will more than double the seating capacity of the structure is in course of
erection.
FIRST PRESHYTERIAN CHURCH OF SANTA MONICA.
The history of the Presbyterian church of Santa Monica dates back to
September I2th, 1875, when a Sunday school was organized at the house of
W. D. Vawter, on Fourth street, the present home of the Misses Vawter. Later
this school met in a hall on the corner of Fifth and Oregon, generously offered
to them by Mr. J. O. Brady.
On Septetmber 24th, a petition signed by twelve persons, was sent to the
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 291
Rev. Dr. White, chairman of the committee of the Presbytery, asking him to
come to Santa Monica and organize a Presbyterian church. ( )n Tuesday,
September 28th, Dr. White met with the petitioners and organized them in
accordance with their request into the " First Presbyterian Church of Santa
Monica." The names of the petitioners were as follows: Mr. R. S. P>assett,
Mrs. E. Bassett, Miss Rose Bassett, Mr. T. H. Clark, Mrs. E. Mountain, Misses
Mattie A. Mountain, Mr. L. M. Perkins, Mrs. S. P. Perkins, Mrs. C. A.
Vawter, Miss May Yawter, Miss Jennie Yawter, Miss Emma Yawter. The
trustees of the new organization were : Y. S. Grinshaw, E. J. Yawter, G. W.
Brady, W. S. Yawter.
The new society proceeded at once to provide themselves with a permanent
place of worship. Messrs. Jones and Baker presented the church with two
lots at the corner of Third and Arizona, and on these was erected the chapel
which for eleven years was used, and was then moved to the rear of the lots,
enlarged, and used for infant classes, mid-week meetings and socials. The
Presbyterian Board of Church Erection assisted in building this first church,
work on which was commenced January ijth, 1876, and which was dedicated
March I2th.
On Sunday, July loth, 1887, a move was made for building a more com
modious place of worship. On that day Col. Elliott F. Shepherd, proprietor
of the New York Mail and Express, and an elder of the Fifth Avenue Presby
terian church of New York City, happened to be present and, hearing that the
church intended to build, started the list with a subscription of $230. Encour
aged by this beginning, a committee consisting of Mrs. Mary E. Treadwell and
Miss Jennie Vawter was appointed to canvas the congregation and community.
By their energetic efforts sufficient funds were soon subscribed to erect and
enclose the new church building. But before the completion of the work came
the collapse of the boom and many of the subscriptions were not paid in. The
ladies of the church met this condition and it is largely due to their efforts that
the church was finally completed and dedicated, Sunday, September 4th, 1892.
The ladies held a memorable series of entertainments during the four years of
church building. The success of the Santa Monica ladies in taking the first prize
at the Floral Festival in Los Angeles, suggested the idea of a Floral Festival at
home. In 1889 a "Feast of Flowers" was held in the new church building, then
unfinished, which was arranged by the ladies of the town under the auspices of
(he Presbyterian ladies and which was acknowledged as one of the most beautiful
floral exhibits ever made in Southern California. The succeeding year a
Kalendar Kirmess was given, lasting three days, the booths representing the
months and the whole conception most artistically designed and carried out.
In 1891 another " Spring Festival " was held which was an equally rich display
of Santa Monica's floral wealth. These affairs were participated in by the
292 HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
people of Santa Monica generally and attracted many visitors from Los Angeles
and other places. Much of their success was due to the energy and executive
ability of the committee of which Miss Jennie Vawter was chairman.
The new church is of the Queen Anne style, ceiled and wainscoted within
with cedar, lighted with stained glass windows and electrical chandeliers, and
with a seating capacity of 250. The total cost was about $7,000, of which over
$1,000 was contributed by Mr. W. D. Vawter, to whose encouragement at the
outset and liberal contributions, the success of the undertaking was largely
due. It was built under the supervision of a committee consisting of Messrs.
W. S. Vawter, Patrick Robertson and E. H. Sweetser.
In the summer of 1907 a fine pipe organ was placed in the church as a
memorial gift from Mr. Joseph H. Clark to the memory of his son, Edward
H. Clerk. It was built by the Estey Company and was installed at a cost
of $2,600.
The following ministers have served the church since 1875 as pastors, or
as stated supplies: I. M. Condit, H. V. Noyes, John W. Ellis, H. Mackay,
Thos. F. Fotheringham, Williel O. Thompson, J. W. Healy, Richmond Logan,
James White, Samuel H. Weller, Enos P. Baker, J. B. Stewart, William R.
Henderson, O. F. Wisner, Amos A. Randall, Henry P. Wilber. The following
have served as ruling elders : G. H. Clark, J. C. Olmstead, Geo. A. Armtsrong,
William E. Case, H. H. Dow, George D. Rowan, Andrew J. Viele, John M.
Coyner, James E. Ward, C. S. Dales, Clarkson N. Guyer, T. H. Wells, H. J.
White, T. E. Cramer.
CATHOLIC CHURCH.
July 28th, 1877, the Outlook states, saw the celebration of mass, for the
first time in the new town of Santa Monica. The service was held in the house
of Judge Morgan, Reverend Father Verdaguer, the beloved " Father Peter " of
the Plaza church, Los Angeles, presiding. Services were probably held at
irregular intervals thereafter until May 4th, 1884, when the Catholic church was
opened for use, although it was not completed until the following year. On
August i8th, 1885, the bell of the church was blessed and the church was
dedicated.
In May, 1886, came Father Patrick Hawe as pastor of the church, and since
that date Father Hawe has been the mainspring of the parish and the church
work in this vicinity. Under his supervision was built the parochial house
adjoining the church and the addition to the orginal church building which
was dedicated August iQth, 1888, by Bishop Mora. In 1887 the statue of
Saint Monica was presented to the church by Mrs. Victor Ponet, of Los
Angeles. Also this year was built the Catholic church at Ballona, now Palms,
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 293
St. Augustine's — named for the son of Saint Monica very fittingly, since this
mission was an offshoot of Saint Monica's church.
In 1899, July i6th, a small band of Sisters of the Holy Name, came to
Santa Monica to establish an academy. They rented a private house on Fourth
street, and September 4th, opened their school with nineteen pupils. The
year closed with fifty-two childrn under the charge of the Sisters.
September 26th, 1890, the ground was broken for the building of the
Academy of Holy Names on the corner of Third and Arizona streets. February
22nd, 1901, witnessed the dedication of the new building. This was an im
pressive ceremony and the occasion is one that will long live in the memory of
the participants and witnesses. The civic services were the finest ever held in
Santa Monica. Under the management of the grand marshal, J. J. Carrillo
and his fifty aides, richly caprisoned as Spanish cabelleros, the parade was
viewed in front of the academy. It consisted of a number of old soldiers from
the Soldiers' Home ; a float representing all the states and territories ; two
brass bands ; nine societies from Los Angeles ; Santa Monica Board of Trustees
and fire department, and the children from the academy, the Ballona, Santa
Monica and Canyon Sunday schools. As General La Grange, and the city
officials, escorting the clergy, left their carriages the home band played
" patriotic songs and the cannon of the Soldiers' Home boomed, while the flag
unfurled and spilled the fragrant roses hidden within its folds." The mayor
of Los Angeles welcomed the guests ; Right Reverend Bishop Montgomery
delivered the oration. Thus was the school inaugurated in its beautiful home.
On May 5th, 1903, the academy was honored by a visit from Rev. Arch
bishop Diomede Falconi, representative in this country of the Pope, Leo XIII.
The occasion was made a festal day and the distinguished guest was paid every
honor, not only by the clergy and laity of the Catholic church, but by the city
officials and citizens generally. July loth, 1903, was a day long remembered
in the annals of Santa Monica. It was given up to the entertainment of the
Knights of Columbia, who had that year held their annual session in Los
Angeles. The streets and buildings were brilliantly decorated and the popula
tion turned out to welcome the guests who, in turn, gazed with admiration upon
the chaums of fair Santa Monica. The day was still further marked by the
inauguration of a council of the Knights of Columbus in this city, a council
which has flourished and is now a powerful ally of the church.
In 1904, under the auspices of Bishop Conaty, now head of this diocese,
the Catholic Teachers' Institute was held in this city, and since that date these
institutes have been an annual feature of the life of the Sisters who are engaged
in teaching. As guests of the Academy of the Holy Name they spend two
REV. PATRICK HAWE.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 295
weeks each summer in listening to the instructions and lectures of distinguished
teachers.
But perhaps the most glorious of all gala days in the annals of Saint
Monica's was the celebration of May 8th, 1904. This was a triple festival, for
it marked the twentieth anniversary of the founding of the Church of Saint
Monica's, the eighteenth year of Father Hawe's service to this parish and the
dedication of the church of St. Clement, of Ocean Park. This church had been
started by Father Hawe ten years before as a mission. The corner-stone for
the handsome building was laid on August 24th, 1903, and the church was
finally dedicated August 2Oth, 1905. The Reverend Michael Hennessy is the
rector of this church.
The chapel at the Soldiers' Home is also included in Father Hawe's parish,
he having held the first services on the grounds of the Home, soon after it was
instituted in 1889. A beautiful building has been erected by the government,
containing two chapels — one for the use of the Protestant churches and one for
Catholic services. The churches now included in the parish of Saint Monica
are four, beside the academy. The entire number of communicants is large.
January I5th, 1903, Reverend James A. O'Callaghan came to Santa Monica
to relieve the head of the parish and assist him in his labors. Father O'Callag
han is a man of fine education and of superior qualities and has been of the
greatest value to the parish. In 1906 Father Hawe visited the home of his
birth and also visited the venerable Father Adam, of beloved memory through
out California. During his stay in Europe Father Hawe also visited Rome
and received the blessing of the Pope. He is again welcomed to his own field
where he guides the many affairs co-incident with so large and important a
parish.
Plans are already made for greatly enlarging the work of the Catholic
church in Santa Monica. It is hoped soon to begin work upon a cathedral
which shall be a magnificent expression of worship, to be located on the corner
of California avenue and Fourth street. The Christian Brothers, a Catholic
organization, has recently secured a site of eleven acres between California
and Nevada avenues, Ninth and Eleventh streets. Here a large college for
boys will be established.
EPISCOPAL CHURCH — SAINT AUGUSTINE-BY-THE-SEA.
The first Episcopalian service held in this city was an Easter service in
Roger's Hall, April isth, 1876. The hall was suitably decorated for the occa
sion and the Rev. J. B. Gray officiated. After this there was talk of forming
an Episcopal society here and a number expressed themselves willing to con
tribute to a building fund for such a church ; but it was not until about Novem
ber, 1885, that services were regularly held and a Sunday school organized. At
296
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES
that time the Rev. Henry Scott Jefferys, of Los Angeles, was appointed by
Bishop Kip as missionary in charge of the work and at once proceeded to secure
land and money for the erection of an Episcopal church. Senator Jones and
Mrs. Baker donated two lots on Fourth street and an active building committee,
consisting of Rev. Jefferys, Messrs. Baxter and Tomkinson, set to work to get
the needed subscriptions. At the end of the first year of Mr. Jeffery's labors,
sixteen adults and twenty-two children were connected with the mission.
The corner-stone for a chapel to cost
$3,000 was laid with much ceremony on
June loth, 1887. Bishop Wingfield acted
for the Bishop of California and there
were present beside the Bishop, the Rev.
Elias Birdsell, rector of St. Paul's church,
Los Angeles ; the Rev. A. G. C. Trew, of
San Gabriel; the Rev. J. D. H. Browne,
rector of All Saints' church, Pasadena ;
the Rev. J. B. Britton, a retired mission
ary and the missionary in charge. In
1888, through the successful labors of
Mr. Jefferys and the people the new
church was opened for divine worship
and a large congregation assembled, the
preacher being the rector of Pasadena.
Mr. Jefferys resigned in the early
part of 1889 and the Rev. Orrin Judd,
of North Carolina, succeeded him. Mr.
Judd had come to California broken down
in health ; but he was a most eloquent
preacher, which gift led to his resignation
of this charge a year later to accept the
new church of St. John on West Adams
street, Los Angeles, which had been built
in order to find a place for him in the city.
During Mr. Judd's incumbency the work
prospered and considerable additions were
made to the membership of the church.
The Rev. P. S. Ruth, of Pomona, officiated temporarily until September,
1891, when the Rev. I. M. M. Jones became rector. Mr. Jones remained in
charge for nearly six years and during that period the Parish Hall was built
and in many ways the church made progress. On the resignation of Mr. Jones,
REV. J. D. H. BROWNE.
HISTORY OF SANTA MONICA BAY CITIES 297
the Rev. Edward Meany officiated temporarily and, at a critical time in the
history of the congregation, maintained the regular services of the church and
did much to arouse the people. When, in Alay, 1900, Mr. Meany's school duties
in Los Angeles compelled him to resign, he was succeeded by the present rector,
the Rev. John D. H. Browne, who had been for sixteen years in Southern Cali
fornia and who had just resigned St. John's church, San Bernardino.
During the nearly eight years that have intervened since Mr. Browne
assumed the work, there has been steady growth. The church building has
been enlarged at a cost of $3,000, and has also been beautified by many costly
memorials. The parish hall has been enlarged and finished within, and a $600
piano provided, with many other improvements made. The roll of communi
cants has increased from 27 to 201. The contributions for the parish and for
the missionary funds of the diocese and the foreign field have multiplied many-
fold. The baptisms have been over 100 and the confirmations 75. The Sunday
school has grown very much and under the care of Mr. Percy J. Dudley, as
superintendent, is accomplishing a good work, especially among the boys. The
Parish Guild, the Woman's Auxiliary, the Brotherhood of St. Andrew, the
Daughters of the King, the Junior Auxiliary are all in active life and meeting
the needs of old and young.
The Parish of St. Augustine-by-the-Sea has come to occupy the sevenlh
place among the parishes of the diocese and bids fair to continue to grow in
importance and increase in influence for good in the life of the city. The
present officers of the parish and members of the vestry are: Rev. John D. H.
Browne, rector; Hon. T. H. Dudley, senior warden; Mr. C. S. Raynor, junior
warden ; Mr. J. B. Proctor, vestry clerk ; Mr. Percy J. Dudley, treasurer ; Mr.
J. F. Ordway, Mr. E. L. Young, Mr. H. J. Blake and Mr. C. C. Melville.
BAPTIST CHURCH.
In April, 1889, Mrs. Drane living on South Third street, near Sand street,
gathered together a number of the children in that neighborhood and started
a union Sunday school in her home. Sunday, January I2th, 1890, a call having
been made by G. B. Studd and J. O. Mathewson for a Sunday school in South
Santa Monica, about forty-two persons gathered at the house of Mr. Mathewson,
at the corner of Bay and South Sixth streets. A school was organized and
Mr. Andrew Mills was chosen as superintendent, a position which he filled for
six years. For a time the 
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11